Berlin to Dresden to Prague in eight days
May 22nd, 2013 | 06:33 AM
#41
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,525
Likes: 0
This is very timely! We hope to be in Berlin, Dresden, and Prague this time next year, with our son, DIL, and two grand babies. Son and DIL studied in Berlin and then he did a Praktikum near Dresden, which is his favorite city. They just got back from Hawaii with the little ones and are currently put off the idea of a long flight, but I pointed out the twins will be very different children a year from now, so I hope they will want to go. She waxes poetic about Milch Kaffee and shopping at KaDeWe, so I don't see how they can pass up theopportunityto visit with built-in babysitters.
Glad to hear about the Adina Hackescher Markt. I have not stayed there ( nor have I been in Berlin since 1997) but I recommended it to friends based on Tripadvisor reviews, and they really liked it. So I will look into that for our stay. I will let my son pick the Dresden hotel, although I doubt he ever stayed one there in his student days. He tends to stay up all night doing night photography, take a short nap, and go refreshed into the next day. Good training for parenting twins.
Ready for more!
Glad to hear about the Adina Hackescher Markt. I have not stayed there ( nor have I been in Berlin since 1997) but I recommended it to friends based on Tripadvisor reviews, and they really liked it. So I will look into that for our stay. I will let my son pick the Dresden hotel, although I doubt he ever stayed one there in his student days. He tends to stay up all night doing night photography, take a short nap, and go refreshed into the next day. Good training for parenting twins.
Ready for more!
May 22nd, 2013 | 07:41 AM
#43
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 12,076
Likes: 0
enzian: Thank you so much! I was just commenting to ms_go the other day that your tip on the Passo Sella "flying phone booths" was one of the most helpful bits of travel advice we've ever received.
In retrospect, I'm feeling a little guilty about assuming the cab drivers at Prague station were just inventing disaster stories to justify extortionate rates. But the Metro trip was so easy and inexpensive, it really should have been Plan A in the first place.
In retrospect, I'm feeling a little guilty about assuming the cab drivers at Prague station were just inventing disaster stories to justify extortionate rates. But the Metro trip was so easy and inexpensive, it really should have been Plan A in the first place.
May 22nd, 2013 | 08:21 AM
#44
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,626
Likes: 0
Thanks, enzian. Lucky you....I really want to go hiking again in the Dolomites.
<b>The hotel in Prague: Domus Balthasar</b>
When I was last in Prague, five or six years ago, I had a little time to walk around in Mala Strana and decided that was where I wanted to stay “next time.” That made our search for accommodations fairly easy—although there are still many good options in the area to consider. After some internet research, we fairly quickly settled on this small hotel, which is located just off the end of the Charles Bridge.
The hotel is in an old building that dates back, I believe (without looking it up), about 500 years. There are eight rooms on four floors; several have kitchenettes. Ours was the Royal Double, which was very spacious, modern and had pretty much any amenity we needed for three days:
http://www.domus-balthasar.cz/hotel/royal-room.php
Wi-fi worked well and consistently in the room…finally, no connectivity issues!
Despite its proximity to the bridge and presence of crowds during the day, we never experienced an issue with noise during our three nights (we did keep the windows closed). I don’t believe there is air conditioning. There was a large fan in the room, but we never needed to use it as the temperatures were probably not over 65F.
The staff was very friendly and helpful with all questions and requests.
The included breakfast is served in the adjacent Bohemia Bagel restaurant and was quite satisfactory, with cooked to order eggs and pancakes, as well as meat, cheese, cereal, fruit and, of course, bagels.
The hotel has a driver, and we used the service for transportation to the airport at the end of our trip (500 CZK, and the distance was longer than we thought it would be).
The only caveat is no elevator. This was not an issue for us; it just added to the three-day intensive leg workout that was Prague
(more on that later). But if stairs are a problem, this might not be the hotel for you…or at least request a room on the lowest floor available.
We thought it was a fantastic place to stay.
€162 per night
http://www.domus-balthasar.cz/
<b>The hotel in Prague: Domus Balthasar</b>
When I was last in Prague, five or six years ago, I had a little time to walk around in Mala Strana and decided that was where I wanted to stay “next time.” That made our search for accommodations fairly easy—although there are still many good options in the area to consider. After some internet research, we fairly quickly settled on this small hotel, which is located just off the end of the Charles Bridge.
The hotel is in an old building that dates back, I believe (without looking it up), about 500 years. There are eight rooms on four floors; several have kitchenettes. Ours was the Royal Double, which was very spacious, modern and had pretty much any amenity we needed for three days:
http://www.domus-balthasar.cz/hotel/royal-room.php
Wi-fi worked well and consistently in the room…finally, no connectivity issues!
Despite its proximity to the bridge and presence of crowds during the day, we never experienced an issue with noise during our three nights (we did keep the windows closed). I don’t believe there is air conditioning. There was a large fan in the room, but we never needed to use it as the temperatures were probably not over 65F.
The staff was very friendly and helpful with all questions and requests.
The included breakfast is served in the adjacent Bohemia Bagel restaurant and was quite satisfactory, with cooked to order eggs and pancakes, as well as meat, cheese, cereal, fruit and, of course, bagels.
The hotel has a driver, and we used the service for transportation to the airport at the end of our trip (500 CZK, and the distance was longer than we thought it would be).
The only caveat is no elevator. This was not an issue for us; it just added to the three-day intensive leg workout that was Prague
(more on that later). But if stairs are a problem, this might not be the hotel for you…or at least request a room on the lowest floor available.We thought it was a fantastic place to stay.
€162 per night
http://www.domus-balthasar.cz/
May 23rd, 2013 | 08:08 AM
#45
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 12,076
Likes: 0
<b>Witches’ Night: One Hell of a Time!</b>
In Prague, and throughout much of the Czech Republic, the night of April 30 is known as Witches' Night. On this night before May Day, people dress in devilish garb, gather around bonfires and hang witches in effigy. (Apparently, the ‘hanging witches’ part used to be, er, not quite so make-believe as it is today).
As we wandered along the river below the Charles Bridge and toward Kampa Island in the late afternoon and early evening, we ran into the beginnings of a lively procession of costumed, merry-making witches and warlocks. Some arrived by boat, others on foot, but they seemed to converge and begin their march in earnest right about where we happened to be. It was like a Halloween parade of sorts, and all the bystanders (locals and tourists alike) stopped to watch and cheer them on. (Those who have read our Hiking in the Dolomites trip report will note, this is not the first time we have found ourselves getting caught up at the starting point of a colorful local parade!)
The procession headed down toward the park on Kampa Island, and we saw that a small festival was starting up down that way. Live music was playing under a tent, booths with local food favorites and beer were firing up, and people were starting to gather. It looked to me like mostly locals. We made note of all this, and vowed to return after dark (and after dinner).
We did have a pretty good dinner that night… more on that later. But by the time we returned to the Witches’ Night festival in the park, people were having a hell of a time. The band was spirited, the food smelled fantastic, the beer was flowing, bonfires were burning, and a good time was being had by all.
Here’s some video I took of the band (and I apologize for the less-than-rock-steady camera work):
http://youtu.be/qFmapwDfirM
…and here is a cheeky devil waiting for a boat:
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/p...8b6d#h6e998b6d
…and finally, here’s some of the food on offer at the fest:
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/p...8b6d#h6e81524e
Hey, it ain’t Lollapalooza. But it was fun!
In Prague, and throughout much of the Czech Republic, the night of April 30 is known as Witches' Night. On this night before May Day, people dress in devilish garb, gather around bonfires and hang witches in effigy. (Apparently, the ‘hanging witches’ part used to be, er, not quite so make-believe as it is today).
As we wandered along the river below the Charles Bridge and toward Kampa Island in the late afternoon and early evening, we ran into the beginnings of a lively procession of costumed, merry-making witches and warlocks. Some arrived by boat, others on foot, but they seemed to converge and begin their march in earnest right about where we happened to be. It was like a Halloween parade of sorts, and all the bystanders (locals and tourists alike) stopped to watch and cheer them on. (Those who have read our Hiking in the Dolomites trip report will note, this is not the first time we have found ourselves getting caught up at the starting point of a colorful local parade!)
The procession headed down toward the park on Kampa Island, and we saw that a small festival was starting up down that way. Live music was playing under a tent, booths with local food favorites and beer were firing up, and people were starting to gather. It looked to me like mostly locals. We made note of all this, and vowed to return after dark (and after dinner).
We did have a pretty good dinner that night… more on that later. But by the time we returned to the Witches’ Night festival in the park, people were having a hell of a time. The band was spirited, the food smelled fantastic, the beer was flowing, bonfires were burning, and a good time was being had by all.
Here’s some video I took of the band (and I apologize for the less-than-rock-steady camera work):
http://youtu.be/qFmapwDfirM
…and here is a cheeky devil waiting for a boat:
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/p...8b6d#h6e998b6d
…and finally, here’s some of the food on offer at the fest:
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/p...8b6d#h6e81524e
Hey, it ain’t Lollapalooza. But it was fun!
Jun 7th, 2013 | 09:32 AM
#46
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 12,076
Likes: 0
<b>Eating and Drinking in Prague</b>
I’m so very sorry that we have done a poor job of keeping up with this trip report. Work commitments have taken both of us on lengthy detours of late, and we’re still slogging our way through them. But the least we can do, right now, is to give you a little taste of the food and restaurants of Prague that we enjoyed during our brief stay.
Not far from our hotel on the Mala Strana side of the bridge, we stumbled upon a rather nice little place called Tři Století. We didn’t have reservations, but they were able to squeeze us into the last available two-seat table without much trouble. It’s a somewhat upscale place, yet very casual in character with an extremely helpful waiter who provided excellent wine and food recommendations. My mushroom-medley appetizer was sensational, and the Czech-style duck was very tender and flavorful. Ms_go’s spinach tagliatelle and fresh basil pesto was also quite good, as was the local white wine.
While walking about town, we paused for a bit to sit at one of the touristy outdoor cafes flanking the Old Town Square, near the church, and struck up a conversation with an American couple at the next table. They introduced us to the local gent sitting with them, and it turns out he was the manager of the place (and the American guy’s cousin). Happy to be talking with a knowledgeable local food-service professional, we asked about a good-but-not-fancy place for dinner nearby. Without hesitation, he recommended a historic brewery/beerhall/restaurant called U Fleků. Having enjoyed a similar establishment in Dresden, we thought it a worthwhile idea to try it again. Well… I guess we should have stopped while we were ahead. It’s a cheesy place with forgettable food, haphazard service, mixed atmosphere and tour-group crowds. But the beer is actually pretty good (as were the Becherovka shots).
Finally, on our last night, we visited a small place called U malé velryby (the little whale) in Mala Strana, near the river and just down the street from our hotel. On the first Wednesday of each month, they feature a seafood tasting menu… and I felt fortunate to have the chance to order it, because everything was superb. I feasted on the scallop & venison brochette (on a skewer of rosemary), crab broulee, cold melon/prawn soup, fish cakes, swordfish saltimbocca, and strawberry shortcake with black currant ice cream. Ms_go thoroughly enjoyed her tapas sampler, as well.
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/p...bde6#h63bcbde6
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/p...bde6#h6ff931b4
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/p...bde6#h6f3a8377
Our lunches tended to be far more informal…
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/p...bde6#h6a3ccfa3
And our mid-afternoon refreshment breaks tended to look like this:
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/p...2ffb#h6bb22ffb
I’m so very sorry that we have done a poor job of keeping up with this trip report. Work commitments have taken both of us on lengthy detours of late, and we’re still slogging our way through them. But the least we can do, right now, is to give you a little taste of the food and restaurants of Prague that we enjoyed during our brief stay.
Not far from our hotel on the Mala Strana side of the bridge, we stumbled upon a rather nice little place called Tři Století. We didn’t have reservations, but they were able to squeeze us into the last available two-seat table without much trouble. It’s a somewhat upscale place, yet very casual in character with an extremely helpful waiter who provided excellent wine and food recommendations. My mushroom-medley appetizer was sensational, and the Czech-style duck was very tender and flavorful. Ms_go’s spinach tagliatelle and fresh basil pesto was also quite good, as was the local white wine.
While walking about town, we paused for a bit to sit at one of the touristy outdoor cafes flanking the Old Town Square, near the church, and struck up a conversation with an American couple at the next table. They introduced us to the local gent sitting with them, and it turns out he was the manager of the place (and the American guy’s cousin). Happy to be talking with a knowledgeable local food-service professional, we asked about a good-but-not-fancy place for dinner nearby. Without hesitation, he recommended a historic brewery/beerhall/restaurant called U Fleků. Having enjoyed a similar establishment in Dresden, we thought it a worthwhile idea to try it again. Well… I guess we should have stopped while we were ahead. It’s a cheesy place with forgettable food, haphazard service, mixed atmosphere and tour-group crowds. But the beer is actually pretty good (as were the Becherovka shots).
Finally, on our last night, we visited a small place called U malé velryby (the little whale) in Mala Strana, near the river and just down the street from our hotel. On the first Wednesday of each month, they feature a seafood tasting menu… and I felt fortunate to have the chance to order it, because everything was superb. I feasted on the scallop & venison brochette (on a skewer of rosemary), crab broulee, cold melon/prawn soup, fish cakes, swordfish saltimbocca, and strawberry shortcake with black currant ice cream. Ms_go thoroughly enjoyed her tapas sampler, as well.
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/p...bde6#h63bcbde6
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/p...bde6#h6ff931b4
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/p...bde6#h6f3a8377
Our lunches tended to be far more informal…
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/p...bde6#h6a3ccfa3
And our mid-afternoon refreshment breaks tended to look like this:
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/p...2ffb#h6bb22ffb
Jun 7th, 2013 | 11:39 AM
#48
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 12,076
Likes: 0
I heard that too, Louisa. Hope the flood damage in Prague isn't too severe right now. But I wouldn't worry about September... it's still a long way off!
BTW, this shot of the Charles Bridge is the current desktop image on my work computer:
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/p...a93d#h6a3aa93d
BTW, this shot of the Charles Bridge is the current desktop image on my work computer:
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/p...a93d#h6a3aa93d
Jul 26th, 2013 | 12:48 PM
#51
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 12,076
Likes: 0
This trip report sort of fizzled out several weeks ago... sorry about that. I'm going to let it go, since we're both pretty busy at work (and in preparation for our Hong Kong trip later this year).
But I did want to post the link to our photos for this trip, in case anyone is interested:
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/f569396778
If you have the time to view about 350 shots (in 7 albums), please be our guest!
But I did want to post the link to our photos for this trip, in case anyone is interested:
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/f569396778
If you have the time to view about 350 shots (in 7 albums), please be our guest!
Jul 26th, 2013 | 11:01 PM
#52
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 57,091
Likes: 5
hi mr_go,
i know all about TRs fizzling out - with me I'm usually about 2/3 through, and the impetus just goes. great pics though - I particularly loved Potsdam and Dresden where we were about 2 years ago too.
What are you planning for HK? - we have only 3 days so I've not really got a handle on how/what to aim at doing. perhaps we should start a HK thread?
i know all about TRs fizzling out - with me I'm usually about 2/3 through, and the impetus just goes. great pics though - I particularly loved Potsdam and Dresden where we were about 2 years ago too.
What are you planning for HK? - we have only 3 days so I've not really got a handle on how/what to aim at doing. perhaps we should start a HK thread?
