been to tarascon?
Apr 19th, 2009 | 02:23 PM
#2
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 43,742
Likes: 4
I would visit Tarascon usually for the sales at the Souleiado
clothing/fabric sale. But not my favorite stop.
here's an over all view:
http://www.provenceweb.fr/e/bouches/...n/tarascon.htm
clothing/fabric sale. But not my favorite stop.
here's an over all view:
http://www.provenceweb.fr/e/bouches/...n/tarascon.htm
Apr 19th, 2009 | 03:31 PM
#6
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 24,359
Likes: 0
Here's the article on Tarascon that I wrote for the original bonjourparis.com web site.
PROVENCE’S TWIN CITIES
Visitors to Provence might not realize that the region, like the American Midwest, has its own set of “twin cities”: Beaucaire and Tarascon, facing each other from opposite sides of the Rhône river about 10 miles north of Arles. Both towns boast feudal castles, and Tarascon has as well the church of Ste. Marthe, who was reputed to have been the sister of Ste. Mary Magdelene.
The ruined castle of Beaucaire lies on the west side of the Rhône and is a good spot from which to look across at the splendid medieval fortress of Tarascon, beautifully reflected in the river. The Tarascon castle is open to visitors and makes for a cool refuge on a hot Provençal day; on view are the king’s and queen’s apartments, the guardrooms, the chapels, the courtyard and more. The roof terrace--from which supporters of Robespierre were hurled to their deaths after he fell from power in 1794--offers an excellent view of the Rhône and the plain beyond. The castle held many prisoners over the years—until 1926, in fact—including a number of Englishmen, whose graffiti can be seen scratched on the walls of the cells.
The Collegial Church of Ste. Marthe is just across a convenient parking lot from the castle. Stairs lead downward from the church’s entrance toward the crypt, and in a side niche on the left is an exquisite tomb effigy of the saint that was commissioned from an Italian sculptor in the 17th century by a bishop of Avignon. The saint’s relics lie below in a fifth-century sarcophagus. Also in the church are some fine works of art, including a 15th-century triptych.
It was Ste. Marthe herself who saved the town of Tarascon from a fierce creature known as La Tarasque, an amphibious creature who terrorized the citizens for many years. This fearsome beast would venture forth from his lair in the Rhône to devour children, cattle, and just about anyone or anything else at hand. Luckily, Ste. Marthe arrived from Saintes-Marie-de-la-Mer, down in the Camargue, and was able to tame the tarasque by making the sign of the cross at him. The chastened beast thereupon returned to the Rhône and ceased his wicked ways.
In 1474 Good King René, who spent the last ten years of his life in Tarascon, commemorated Ste. Marthe’s triumph by organizing a great fête. The celebration survives to this day in the form of a procession through the streets of the town in late June. Prominent in the pageant is a mobile figure of the tarasque, his great tail whipping about like the dragon in a Chinese New Year parade.
Tarascon is also home to the Souleiado fabric museum, visits to which must be arranged well in advance. The museum holds some 40,000 18th-century wood blocks. Anyone who has spent time in Provençe has no doubt seen the beautiful Indienne fabrics produced by this firm, and visiting the collection is an admirable introduction to the wide variety of historic patterns.
PROVENCE’S TWIN CITIES
Visitors to Provence might not realize that the region, like the American Midwest, has its own set of “twin cities”: Beaucaire and Tarascon, facing each other from opposite sides of the Rhône river about 10 miles north of Arles. Both towns boast feudal castles, and Tarascon has as well the church of Ste. Marthe, who was reputed to have been the sister of Ste. Mary Magdelene.
The ruined castle of Beaucaire lies on the west side of the Rhône and is a good spot from which to look across at the splendid medieval fortress of Tarascon, beautifully reflected in the river. The Tarascon castle is open to visitors and makes for a cool refuge on a hot Provençal day; on view are the king’s and queen’s apartments, the guardrooms, the chapels, the courtyard and more. The roof terrace--from which supporters of Robespierre were hurled to their deaths after he fell from power in 1794--offers an excellent view of the Rhône and the plain beyond. The castle held many prisoners over the years—until 1926, in fact—including a number of Englishmen, whose graffiti can be seen scratched on the walls of the cells.
The Collegial Church of Ste. Marthe is just across a convenient parking lot from the castle. Stairs lead downward from the church’s entrance toward the crypt, and in a side niche on the left is an exquisite tomb effigy of the saint that was commissioned from an Italian sculptor in the 17th century by a bishop of Avignon. The saint’s relics lie below in a fifth-century sarcophagus. Also in the church are some fine works of art, including a 15th-century triptych.
It was Ste. Marthe herself who saved the town of Tarascon from a fierce creature known as La Tarasque, an amphibious creature who terrorized the citizens for many years. This fearsome beast would venture forth from his lair in the Rhône to devour children, cattle, and just about anyone or anything else at hand. Luckily, Ste. Marthe arrived from Saintes-Marie-de-la-Mer, down in the Camargue, and was able to tame the tarasque by making the sign of the cross at him. The chastened beast thereupon returned to the Rhône and ceased his wicked ways.
In 1474 Good King René, who spent the last ten years of his life in Tarascon, commemorated Ste. Marthe’s triumph by organizing a great fête. The celebration survives to this day in the form of a procession through the streets of the town in late June. Prominent in the pageant is a mobile figure of the tarasque, his great tail whipping about like the dragon in a Chinese New Year parade.
Tarascon is also home to the Souleiado fabric museum, visits to which must be arranged well in advance. The museum holds some 40,000 18th-century wood blocks. Anyone who has spent time in Provençe has no doubt seen the beautiful Indienne fabrics produced by this firm, and visiting the collection is an admirable introduction to the wide variety of historic patterns.
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Apr 19th, 2009 | 08:53 PM
#12
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 897
Likes: 0
The castle is one of the best preserved in Provence - and a visit including the climb up on the roof should take an hour max. Especially excellent for kids - and also with kids in tow, the "Bird Show" at the castle ruins across the river in Beaucaire is always a big hit.
I quite like wandering around the Old Town - there are some beautiful architectural details. It's basically St. Remy without the crowds and minus most of the tourist-oriented shops. In fact, if it wasn't for Joel Durand, I'd recommend Tarascon over St. Remy, come to think of it !
-Kevin
I quite like wandering around the Old Town - there are some beautiful architectural details. It's basically St. Remy without the crowds and minus most of the tourist-oriented shops. In fact, if it wasn't for Joel Durand, I'd recommend Tarascon over St. Remy, come to think of it !
-Kevin
Apr 20th, 2009 | 09:07 AM
#14
Original Poster
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Well, it sounds as if we should stop there briefly, only if we have time on our day in the area. I would like to see the castle and the Souleiado museum, but not at the expense of Arles and St. Remy. Will I have time to do both of those towns in one day? I only have 4 days for this trip and have narrowed down my choice of towns to include those two for one of my days.
Apr 20th, 2009 | 10:15 AM
#15
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 16,518
Likes: 0
Remember - shops close for lunch, so that would not be the best time to visit St Remy or Arles, unless you want to have a 1 1/2 hr sit-down lunch. Perhaps purchase a sandwich/picnic stuff & spend the lunch period in Tarascon at the museum/retail seconds outlet & then the fortress.
Stu Dudley
Stu Dudley
