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Back from Switzerland & Alsace: susan001's trip report

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Back from Switzerland & Alsace: susan001's trip report

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Old Jul 29th, 2008, 05:36 PM
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basingstoke2, Thank you for the kind comment about my photos. I have a Canon G7. Canon has since come out with a newer model, the G9. It's a prosumer model -- lots of bells and whistles. It's not lightweight, but it's not a big, bulky SLR to lug around either. I've been very very happy with the results this camera produces. I always set it to "superfine," and mostly use the P mode, and in normal light set to 100. If the lighting is tricky (at sunset or on a cloudy day), I set to auto.
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Old Jul 29th, 2008, 05:37 PM
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Great photographs. Excellent clarity and color. Thank you for bringing back memories.
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Old Jul 29th, 2008, 06:28 PM
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July 19th: On Saturday morning I woke up to glorious, clear skies in Stein am Rhein -- just an ideal day in terms of weather--so I decided to take the later morning train to my next destination (after 11), rather than the earlier one. Of course I took advantage of the great photo shooting opportunities the weather afforded. Plus, there was a farmer’s market going on in the village square. After much strolling around taking photos, I wandered into a dress shop and tried on a dress that I saw on display in front of the store. I loved it, bought it, felt guilty for an hour (also bought the scarf that made it an outfit), checked out of my hotel, and was on my way.

I took a series of trains to Zurich HB, where I changed for Landquart, and then changed to the Scuol-Tarasp train (which will only stop in Guarda if you push a button, I discovered, just in time). On the train from Winterthur to Zurich, I got into a conversation with a local woman who was so very helpful. I noticed there wasn’t much time to catch my connecting train to Landquart, and no platform # given on my printed itinerary for Landquart, so she helped me read the posted schedule at the main station quite quickly, and ascended the escalator with me to show me where the platform was. I thought that was extraordinary. Generally speaking, people I met were so friendly and helpful. If I asked, most were willing to help.

Just before my train from Lanquart came close to Guarda, the conductor, remembering that I had said I was going to Guarda, came into my car, pushed the magic button, and then when the train stopped, he carried my suitcase off the train! That’s never happened before. So nice. Fortunately, Linda, that postal bus was waiting for me at Guarda station. I made sure to pay attention to the bus schedule the hotel had sent me. For other readers, if you miss the postal bus at Guarda station, it’s QUITE an uphill hike to get to the village, something one would not want to face with luggage!

I arrived at the Hotel Meisser for my 3-night stay at around 2:30 or 3 pm, settled into my cozy room with red patterned carpeting and pine furniture, then took a look around town with my camera. It was so completely uncommercial and had relatively few tourists, I felt I was in heaven. What a lovely, lovely village Guarda is.

That night, I dined in their casual dining room (not the more formal one), wanting a lighter meal that night. I got into a fun discussion with the young couple who own/manage the Meisser, who were also having dinner in the room. He suggested I try “mallens” if I wanted a lighter local dish. It’s like fried potatoes with applesauce, but much better than it sounds. It all tasted very homemade. It was an early night for me, as I knew a long day was ahead with visiting Scuol and the castle Tarasp the next day.
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Old Jul 29th, 2008, 08:19 PM
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susan, I cannot tell you how much I've enjoyed your trip report. And the pictures! Oh, the pictures!

Your commentary even brought me to tears- just your total joy at reliving the moments of previous visits as you pulled into town.

It reminded me of the feeling I get when I close my eyes and recall my first visit to Italy last year. I want to go back so badly, I sometimes feel like I'm obsessed with a return visit. And I know when I get there, I will feel the way you did pulling into SAR.

Looking forward to more-- thanks again!
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Old Jul 29th, 2008, 08:25 PM
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Glad you made the bus! Rick and I missed it a few times and the first hike up on our first day with luggage was NOT FUN!! LOL!
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Old Jul 29th, 2008, 09:07 PM
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I recall your missing the bus, Linda, from your report. I thought about you when I missed it once going down and made the walk. I remember thinking I wouldn't have wanted to walk up, especially with luggage!! I actually carried with me the email memo the hotel had sent me prior to my trip, regarding the postal bus schedule.
That memo was especially helpful the next day when I went to Scuol-Tarasp.




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Old Jul 30th, 2008, 05:00 AM
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Oh, Susan, I'm so glad you've posted your report before I have to go back to teaching. One last treat! I have not even had a chance to look at the photographs yet, but I've got to take a minute to thank you!

Colmar. Your lovely stay underlines my belief that the only way to really experience a town is to spend the night there. My trip to Alsace was based in Dambach-la-Ville, and my daytrips included Colmar. The petit venice neighborhood was picturesque, but it is now obvious that I missed so much by arriving and departing during the peak tourist hours. And (memo to solo travelers) because it was not one of my solo trips, I was unable to visit the Unterlinden. (God, help me live long enough to return to my growing list of second-chance destinations on my own.)

Onion pie, yes! Mine was in Dambach-la-Ville, and I can taste it as if it were yesterday. This might be a good place to say how much I'm enjoying the details you include in your writing; practical ones and aesthetic ones, all are appreciated, and some are copied and pasted for future reference.

Stein am Rhein. In this case, I think I've already said in another thread how glad I am that it is still the magical place I remember. My friends and I stayed in a tiny B&B on a back street. I don't even remember how we found it. Is there a tourist info desk in the village that locates private rooms? Your walk to the island is now on my bucket list.

I've never been to Guarda, but I promise myself I will. Susan, your itinerary is a winner from start to finish. Bravo. J.
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Old Jul 30th, 2008, 05:23 AM
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Thanks for posting your pictures and report.

Colmar looks wonderful.

So many places to see...
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Old Jul 30th, 2008, 06:00 AM
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Magnificent pictures. Number 110/oriel with green shutters would make a trip to Guarda worthwhile all by itself. My first visit to smugbug, and I notice there's a yearly fee. Can you tell us why you use that site and what makes it worth the cost to you. It certainly is a graceful presentation. J.
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Old Jul 30th, 2008, 06:58 AM
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jmw, Thank you for your kind remarks. Yes, I'm sure there is a TI in SAR, but I've never been to it, and not sure about private rooms. I do know that while the Rheinfels is reasonable, there are less expensive hotels in town. I prefer being near the water.

I'm a teacher, as well, but don't have to be back until just before labor day (for meetings), Then school starts after labor day.

karens, I enjoyed my stay in Colmar very much. I would like to stay in one of the villages sometime, though.
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Old Jul 30th, 2008, 07:23 AM
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sarge56, I'm sure you'll make it back to Italy if you make it a priority. I'm so glad I visited SAR a second time. Thanks for reading and commenting.
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Old Jul 30th, 2008, 08:23 AM
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jmw, I use smugmug because it allows the user to store photos in their original size (rather than reducing the file). My brother pointed out to me that if my computer were ever stolen, I would have all my photos on that site stored in their original size. Of course, ALL photos taken are not on there (though it must seem like it). Also, they provide software tools that make uploading a large file of photos (full size) quite easy. I also like the presentation. Before I signed up for smugmug, I was on pbase, another subscription site.
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Old Jul 30th, 2008, 09:30 AM
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Well, now I've done it! Last night I told David about your photos and he oohed and aahed for an hour. Now he says we must go to Colmar! Drat! Oh well, if we must....

Honestly, Susan, he loved your photos and commented about what a good eye you have!
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Old Jul 30th, 2008, 10:05 AM
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Wow---very nice pics. I really admire what you did this trip. And, like Betty, I may have to do Alsace one day. Love your Soglio shots--we will be back in that area in 2009.
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Old Jul 30th, 2008, 10:14 AM
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I have got to find Soglio! It looks so calm and beautiful.
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Old Jul 30th, 2008, 10:45 AM
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When we were in Soglio it was raining~ I vowed we would go back there and stay, and now I know once I show my husband your photos, he too will say yes!

Thanks!
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Old Jul 30th, 2008, 03:39 PM
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Betty, oops! well, I do hope you enjoy Colmar. Sounds like a done deal. Thanks so much for your kind feedback!

wrenwood, If it was raining, you should probably give it another chance.

scatcat, getting to Soglio takes some doing (two bus rides from St. Moritz. I really wouldn't recommend driving there -- scary, twisty mountain highway. I thought it was worth it, and the bus was entertaining. At every stop, hikers got off with their gear, and more got on. The Swiss are serious about their hiking!

Bob, Thanks for the comment!
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Old Jul 30th, 2008, 03:51 PM
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We loved Guarda too and the bus ride up from the station was great but just couldn't imagine having to walk it!
Just beautiful photo's Susan, as always you do an amazing job for all of us to share.
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Old Jul 30th, 2008, 04:54 PM
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Thank you, Maudie!

July 20th: After breakfast in Guarda, I set out to see the town of Scuol and the castle Tarasp. Deborah, the hotel receptionist had told me I would need to buy my ticket from a machine (unmanned train station), and that I would need coins, so I made change there. I had a Swiss 4-day flexipass, and had been advised by the people at Budget Europe Travel to buy tickets on days of short transfers to save $$.

I missed the bus going down, so walked, but it took longer than I thought to get down the hill, and just as I got close to the station, I could see the train I had planned to take leaving.... a little “Oh no,” escaped my lips. The place was deserted, except for one dressed up German-speaking guy who showed up with an SLR to take pictures of trains coming and going. I studied the machine, and the sign above it. The code for the Scuol-Tarasp train was something 267. So I punched in 267, and it said 3.50 for (what I thought was one way) and 7.00 for (what I thought was ) roundtrip. So I clicked that one, put in 7 Swiss Francs, and my ticket did come out. I asked the picture-taking guy, who did speak English. He said I didn’t buy a roundtrip. The other fare was half price for people who have a Swiss pass (which I did).

Mistake and all, I was glad I sort of figured out the machine and got my ticket. I got into a conversation with three Swiss ladies from Basel, all over 70, I would guess. They were so very nice, and later, on the train, told me about a choral concert by a well-known St. Moritz group that would be taking place at a church in Scuol. Very nice of them!

When I got off the bus at Scuol, it was a bigger station (and city) than I was expecting. I managed to catch a local bus to an area more central. After I got off, I asked someone how to get to “the bridge,” and found it within 10 minutes. There’s a pedestrian bridge which spans the Inn River (the same Inn River that flows through Innsbruck), and from there one can get some great shots of the church, with river running by (seen in my photo album). I had seen this scene in someone else’s photos and was bent on finding it. Next, I wandered around until I found the path leading to the covered bridge (the one pictured in the photo). Once across the covered bridge, I was right there in central “old town” Scuol. It was lovely (however, somewhat deserted, being a Sunday). After wandering around for awhile, and even getting lost, I finally found that first bridge again, walked halfway across to get another picture, and ended up walking UP to the train station. What a hike!

There, at the Scuol station (that DID have employees selling tickets), I bought a round trip to Tarasp (which is a bus ride) I also explained my dilemma of the expensive one-way ticket, and pulled out my rail pass. She said normally, they can’t correct the price once the ticket has been used, but she did anyway (very nice of her!). So for about 6 additional francs, I got my roundtrip to Tarasp and a return to Guarda town (not station -- so it included the bus ride up to town).

Next, I got on the bus for the Tarasp castle adventure. I had seen the castle sitting on a hilltop from the train, and it’s such a beautiful sight! I enjoyed the bus ride up, and got into a conversation with several young Americans aboard. They teach English at the Engadine school during the summer, and so stay there for 5 weeks. I may look into that myself. The small group of us ended up walking up to the castle together. I asked the driver when the bus returns for Scuol. He indicated every hour at 10 minutes after. Several of us decided we wanted the 4:10 bus back. After some huffing and puffing uphill (well, most of them were not, but I was) we got up to the ticket window, and the tour was to start within 10 minutes. But the ticket guy said it’s a 45-minute tour and that one can’t leave early once inside. I was starting to feel like a medieval prisoner! That was going to put me back at the bus stop at 4:30; And I KNEW I didn’t want to miss my postal bus at the Guarda train station, especially after that uphill trek to the train station in Scuol plus the uphill to the castle. And, it was starting to look like rain on top of all that.

So remembering something LLindaC had said about the castle tour not being all that great, I decided not to spend the time there. I had planned to catch the 4:37 train to Guarda prior to all this, so I could get the 5:00 postal bus up the hill to town. I knew from my schedule that there is no bus at 6:00, and the last one is at 7:00 pm. It turns out, I made the right choice. As soon as I got back to my hotel in Guarda it started raining, and I was “home” safe and sound (and dry).

I had made a reservation for the more formal restaurant at the hotel. I had a 4-course meal, I’m thinking now it was their “half board,” because it was 4 courses for one price. The very best part was the desert -- delicious!! It was a lemon souffle, that was out of this world. I’m trying to remember what the main course was, obviously not memorable.

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Old Jul 31st, 2008, 05:26 AM
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Susan001 ~ We will give Soglio anither chance. In fact I would like to stay there for a few days, I thought it a magical place.

By the way we too stayed at Hotel Meisser in Guarda and loved it. But we woke up to snow the next morning! It was GORGEOUS!
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