Back from Switzerland & Alsace: susan001's trip report
Jul 29th, 2008, 07:55 AM
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Back from Switzerland & Alsace: susan001's trip report
I am back from my beautiful journey through Switzerland and France’s Alsace. First of all, I must thank those who offered helpful feedback, especially LLindaC and Ingo. Every location was wonderful, and for the most part, the weather was good (I enjoyed Southern California weather in Zurich the evening before I flew out).
I flew from Los Angeles to Zurich on US Airways on July 13th (with a stopover in Philidelphia), grabbed my suitcase (one of the first to land on the carousel--my suitcase was delayed 3 days on the trip back to LA). I went down to the train station below and immediately departed for Colmar, France, a 2-hour journey. I was concerned that some trains in France would not running, being Bastille Day, but was relieved to find that I would be able to get there with little or no delays via regional trains. My Swiss rail pass got me as far as Basel, and was I was able to purchase a ticket (from Basel to Colmar) from the airport train station in Zurich. It was a very long day of many transfers. Once at the train station in Colmar, I was relieved to see two taxi cabs waiting, so was able to get to my booked hotel, immediately.
I stayed at Le Marechal in Colmar, a well-known, delightful old hotel on a canal in Petite Venice. My room (a single) was on the top floor under a pitched slanted ceiling. The room was adorable, but I kept bumping my head! I had a lovely view over rooftops to the canal down below -- a tranquil setting, indeed.
Tuesday, July 15th: Since I decided not to rent a car, and wanted to see some Alsatian villages, I signed up for a day tour with Regioscope, a minivan tour company I had read about in Rick Steves’ France ’08 (They also had a brochure in the lobby of my hotel), and I had a wonderful time. Pierre, the driver and guide, was quite knowledgeable (grew up in the area), and took me and several other tourists (I was the only American) to several villages and Chateau du Haut-Koenigsbourg.
In the morning I saw Ribeauville and Kaysersberg along with a mother and daughter from Paris who spoke no English, so Pierre had to give bilingual commentary. It was a fun morning. After he finished explaining how much time we had to explore on our own, I said “Merci.” The two French women looked at him and said, “Thank you.” We all laughed.
In the afternoon I visited Riquewihr and Haut-Koenigsbourg (again with Pierre as guide) but with a different group: a couple from Oslo, a couple from Australia, and two men, who were originally from India. The afternoon tour was conducted in English, since that was the common language.
My favorite part of the day was a stop at a hilltop vineyard above Riquewihr, so we could all take in the view and take pictures. Immediately following, we went for a wine tasting at a cellar in town, with time to wander independently through the village after that. It wasn’t crowded at all. Some of the side streets were vacant, in fact. I had read to expect crowds in this particular village, so I was delighted that that was not the case on this particular afternoon. Pierre commented that tourism is down; that would certainly explain the lack of crowds.
I enjoyed all three villages, and the views from castle Haut-Koenigsbourg. I have to admit that I thought Riquewihr was the cutest, most enchanting of all the villages. But all of them were lovely. Ribeauville would be my second choice of the three I saw. I regret that I was unable to get to Eguisheim, but another time! In his guidebook, RS recommends two and no more than three villages. I can see why. All that half-timbered cuteness all meshes together after awhile. Then it becomes difficult to remember the unique charm of each one.
That evening I went to a local tarte flambee place near my hotel (on a canal) and enjoyed both the tarte (sort of like pizza with cheese and onion) and the amazing views of lovely half-timbered houses all around. After that, I heard live music, which sounded like it was coming from the central portion of town, so I walked there (the streets were literally deserted), and then I remembered that every Tuesday night in summer there is a free concert of Alsatian dancing. It was wonderful to watch them perform regional folk dances in traditional costume, with live music.
July 16th: Today I spent the entire day exploring Colmar. There WERE some crowds in town this day. But in the evening, I found much of the city to be like a ghost town. I started the day by touring the Unterlinden Museum (in a former convent), and thoroughly enjoyed Grunewald’s alterpiece (from the High Middle Ages), painted on wooden, moveable panels. I spent over 2 hours at this museum.
At lunch I stopped at a bistro that had that Alsatian onion pie (tarte a l’oignon) on the menu. While it was very good, one of my best meals would be later in the evening.
In the afternoon, I got lost! I had a decent map and a compass, but I just couldn’t find that Bartholdi Museum. After asking several shop owners, I finally found it. Some interesting exhibits there, particularly his statue of liberty models, but overall, it was slightly disappointing.
I had passed by a creperie the evening before, and I knew I wanted to eat there, so I planned that. I had a wonderful main course of a Roquefort--goat cheese--nut crepe (excellent) with cider, and later, a delicious dessert crepe (with strawberries, some sort of liqueur, which was set ablaze, and ice cream). I had a nice nonverbal exchange with the French family sitting next to me (outdoor cafe), and we were all serenaded by a husband-wife team of accordian players.... What an enjoyable dining experience!
Here is a link to my photo album:
http://susanbowen.smugmug.com/galler...40774634_efbqV
I flew from Los Angeles to Zurich on US Airways on July 13th (with a stopover in Philidelphia), grabbed my suitcase (one of the first to land on the carousel--my suitcase was delayed 3 days on the trip back to LA). I went down to the train station below and immediately departed for Colmar, France, a 2-hour journey. I was concerned that some trains in France would not running, being Bastille Day, but was relieved to find that I would be able to get there with little or no delays via regional trains. My Swiss rail pass got me as far as Basel, and was I was able to purchase a ticket (from Basel to Colmar) from the airport train station in Zurich. It was a very long day of many transfers. Once at the train station in Colmar, I was relieved to see two taxi cabs waiting, so was able to get to my booked hotel, immediately.
I stayed at Le Marechal in Colmar, a well-known, delightful old hotel on a canal in Petite Venice. My room (a single) was on the top floor under a pitched slanted ceiling. The room was adorable, but I kept bumping my head! I had a lovely view over rooftops to the canal down below -- a tranquil setting, indeed.
Tuesday, July 15th: Since I decided not to rent a car, and wanted to see some Alsatian villages, I signed up for a day tour with Regioscope, a minivan tour company I had read about in Rick Steves’ France ’08 (They also had a brochure in the lobby of my hotel), and I had a wonderful time. Pierre, the driver and guide, was quite knowledgeable (grew up in the area), and took me and several other tourists (I was the only American) to several villages and Chateau du Haut-Koenigsbourg.
In the morning I saw Ribeauville and Kaysersberg along with a mother and daughter from Paris who spoke no English, so Pierre had to give bilingual commentary. It was a fun morning. After he finished explaining how much time we had to explore on our own, I said “Merci.” The two French women looked at him and said, “Thank you.” We all laughed.
In the afternoon I visited Riquewihr and Haut-Koenigsbourg (again with Pierre as guide) but with a different group: a couple from Oslo, a couple from Australia, and two men, who were originally from India. The afternoon tour was conducted in English, since that was the common language.
My favorite part of the day was a stop at a hilltop vineyard above Riquewihr, so we could all take in the view and take pictures. Immediately following, we went for a wine tasting at a cellar in town, with time to wander independently through the village after that. It wasn’t crowded at all. Some of the side streets were vacant, in fact. I had read to expect crowds in this particular village, so I was delighted that that was not the case on this particular afternoon. Pierre commented that tourism is down; that would certainly explain the lack of crowds.
I enjoyed all three villages, and the views from castle Haut-Koenigsbourg. I have to admit that I thought Riquewihr was the cutest, most enchanting of all the villages. But all of them were lovely. Ribeauville would be my second choice of the three I saw. I regret that I was unable to get to Eguisheim, but another time! In his guidebook, RS recommends two and no more than three villages. I can see why. All that half-timbered cuteness all meshes together after awhile. Then it becomes difficult to remember the unique charm of each one.
That evening I went to a local tarte flambee place near my hotel (on a canal) and enjoyed both the tarte (sort of like pizza with cheese and onion) and the amazing views of lovely half-timbered houses all around. After that, I heard live music, which sounded like it was coming from the central portion of town, so I walked there (the streets were literally deserted), and then I remembered that every Tuesday night in summer there is a free concert of Alsatian dancing. It was wonderful to watch them perform regional folk dances in traditional costume, with live music.
July 16th: Today I spent the entire day exploring Colmar. There WERE some crowds in town this day. But in the evening, I found much of the city to be like a ghost town. I started the day by touring the Unterlinden Museum (in a former convent), and thoroughly enjoyed Grunewald’s alterpiece (from the High Middle Ages), painted on wooden, moveable panels. I spent over 2 hours at this museum.
At lunch I stopped at a bistro that had that Alsatian onion pie (tarte a l’oignon) on the menu. While it was very good, one of my best meals would be later in the evening.
In the afternoon, I got lost! I had a decent map and a compass, but I just couldn’t find that Bartholdi Museum. After asking several shop owners, I finally found it. Some interesting exhibits there, particularly his statue of liberty models, but overall, it was slightly disappointing.
I had passed by a creperie the evening before, and I knew I wanted to eat there, so I planned that. I had a wonderful main course of a Roquefort--goat cheese--nut crepe (excellent) with cider, and later, a delicious dessert crepe (with strawberries, some sort of liqueur, which was set ablaze, and ice cream). I had a nice nonverbal exchange with the French family sitting next to me (outdoor cafe), and we were all serenaded by a husband-wife team of accordian players.... What an enjoyable dining experience!
Here is a link to my photo album:
http://susanbowen.smugmug.com/galler...40774634_efbqV
Jul 29th, 2008, 09:09 AM
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You have made my day with your report and photos. We are going to be in Colmar in September and I have been reading about the Rick Steve's recommended tours etc so you
have confirmed that we need to do that and try those crepes.
Absolutely love all your pics. Thanks for sharing and glad you had a good trip.
have confirmed that we need to do that and try those crepes.
Absolutely love all your pics. Thanks for sharing and glad you had a good trip.
Jul 29th, 2008, 09:18 AM
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I am glad you enjoyed your trip very much. Love the start of the report (more, please!) and the pics.
I also thought the Grünewald altar is fascinating. Loved strolling around in Colmar much, but didn't stay overnight. Interesting it was like a ghost time in the evening.
I.
I also thought the Grünewald altar is fascinating. Loved strolling around in Colmar much, but didn't stay overnight. Interesting it was like a ghost time in the evening.
I.
Jul 29th, 2008, 10:32 AM
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Thanks, Ira. Your trip reports have been helpful to me. I did consider the buses you mentioned, but it all seemed a bit of a hassle, and after a long flight and train transfers, the day minivan tour of the villages seemed like the thing to do.
Linda and Ingo, I thought about both of you while I was over there. Thanks again. I'll add more this afternoon if time allows.
Linda and Ingo, I thought about both of you while I was over there. Thanks again. I'll add more this afternoon if time allows.
Jul 29th, 2008, 12:02 PM
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Susan, your photos are gorgeous. Loved the ones of SAR of course! And the views from the castle OMG! We'll definitely have to go up there next time. But we'll have to drive. No way we could walk that far uphill -- we're too decrepit!
And Colmar looks amazing. I think I'll have to add that to my list of places to visit one day soon.
Can't wait for more.
And Colmar looks amazing. I think I'll have to add that to my list of places to visit one day soon.
Can't wait for more.
Jul 29th, 2008, 12:35 PM
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Thanks, Betty. Halfway up that hike to the SAR castle I considered turning around. It was not easy. The hotel owner at Rheinfels told me wasn't an easy hike, and she was right! There's a nice paved road up for cars.
I think you would enjoy Colmar.
I think you would enjoy Colmar.
Jul 29th, 2008, 01:00 PM
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July 17th: When I woke up in Colmar, it was raining. This meant I wouldn’t be attempting to catch a boat ride on the canal before checking out of my hotel. I took a taxi to the train station and the train was late, which meant I arrived in Basel 15 minutes late! I knew my connecting Swiss train would already be gone, and I was right. I caught the next train to Zurich airport station, and there tried to find the next train to Stein am Rhein via Winterthur. It was almost an hour wait, so I went to Starbuck’s at the station and found something decent to eat, while I waited. Finally, I got to Winterthur, where I changed to a regional train to Stein AR. As I remembered from the prior year, the landscape rolling by was so picturesque, but the tranquility of the experience was marred somewhat by a very loud family from Spain who were sharing my car. I moved my seat twice, and finally, to my relief, they got off the train. Once again, I was in Stein am Rhein-land heaven. When the town and castle come into view to the sound of the clacketty clack of the train, it’s a magical experience. I had wondered on my way there if I had made a mistake including SAR this time, since I saw so many enchanting villages in the Alsace region. But when I turned a certain corner and started across that bridge over the Rhine, the experience was unreal. It’s such a beaufiful, beautiful place. My own memory and my own photos from the year before didn’t serve me well. This is a place to be experienced in person. That evening I took a walk (just exploring) on the otherside of the river (from town and my hotel) and found the little path that leads through a lovely cluster of homes all the way down to the pedestrian bridge that crosses over to an island. What a magical experience that was! There must have been 7 or 8 swans there next to the little park with benches. I called my mother using my cell phone and tried to convey the beauty and tranquility I was experiencing.
More to come....
More to come....
Jul 29th, 2008, 02:48 PM
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July 18th: After breakfast at the hotel (The Rheinfells) I used the Internet cafe up the street to email family and friends, then strolled around town with my camera. I forgot to mention on the afternoon I rolled into town (the 17th) they were having a big celebration in the town square with an oompah band and TV cameras, plus stalls with beer, pretzels, and other regional “fast food.” I asked a local what was going on; she commented that it was a big playoff between two village teams, one of them, of course, SAR. Team members were wearing brightly-colored t-shirts. I didn’t stay and participate in the festivities for long, though I did buy a beer and sat at a table for a short while. The racket (loud talking and laughter) and oompah music went on through the night. Unfortunately, this time at Hotel Rheinfels I was given an end room (on the street that crosses the river), where loud pedestrians passing by awakened me more than once.
On Friday, I had decided to try to get out to the Rhine Falls and also attempt to get up to the castle, two things I hadn’t managed to see on my last trip. I started with the hike up to the castle. It was such an exhausting hike (round trip, including photo stops, rests, visiting the castle itself, over 3 hours). I came down into the village around 4 pm, went to the Hotel Sonne to reserve a table for dinner that night (dinner there recommended in Karen Brown’s guidebook), and came back to my hotel to clean up and rest. Need I say more? I didn’t make it to the falls. Well, another time!
Before going to dinner I stopped at an artist’s storefront on a side street. I had been admiring her ceramic work earlier and decided to buy a wall plate, with a hand-painted Swiss girl and cow. Not the type of thing I would normally hang on my wall, but I wanted something to remind me of Switzerland. Also, I figured a small plate would be the easiest thing to get into my suitcase. The back is hand-signed by the artist. Her studio is right there, part of the shop. She was throwing clay as I looked around.
I had a delicious meal at the Sonne. I ordered what Karen Brown recommended--the veal ravioli--and it was truly delicious. Next I had the perch, which was very good, maybe floating in too much butter for my taste, but good. The odd thing was, I was the sole dinner in this elegant place. I did book early -- 6 PM (very early by European standards), but I knew I wanted to be in bed early that night, and wanted time for my dinner to settle before sleep. I’m assuming it was a mom and pop setup. Pop was the chef, mom was the waitress. When I was all finished, instead of bringing me my check she asked if I she could bring me something to read. I thought that was very odd. Still, she and the chef (I'm assuming her husband) were nice people. After paying the bill, I went for another stroll to that “island paradise” with the wooden bridge, little monastery and swans. And then back to my hotel room to settle in for the night. I knew I had a long day of train travel ahead of me on Saturday as I journeyed on to Guarda.
On Friday, I had decided to try to get out to the Rhine Falls and also attempt to get up to the castle, two things I hadn’t managed to see on my last trip. I started with the hike up to the castle. It was such an exhausting hike (round trip, including photo stops, rests, visiting the castle itself, over 3 hours). I came down into the village around 4 pm, went to the Hotel Sonne to reserve a table for dinner that night (dinner there recommended in Karen Brown’s guidebook), and came back to my hotel to clean up and rest. Need I say more? I didn’t make it to the falls. Well, another time!
Before going to dinner I stopped at an artist’s storefront on a side street. I had been admiring her ceramic work earlier and decided to buy a wall plate, with a hand-painted Swiss girl and cow. Not the type of thing I would normally hang on my wall, but I wanted something to remind me of Switzerland. Also, I figured a small plate would be the easiest thing to get into my suitcase. The back is hand-signed by the artist. Her studio is right there, part of the shop. She was throwing clay as I looked around.
I had a delicious meal at the Sonne. I ordered what Karen Brown recommended--the veal ravioli--and it was truly delicious. Next I had the perch, which was very good, maybe floating in too much butter for my taste, but good. The odd thing was, I was the sole dinner in this elegant place. I did book early -- 6 PM (very early by European standards), but I knew I wanted to be in bed early that night, and wanted time for my dinner to settle before sleep. I’m assuming it was a mom and pop setup. Pop was the chef, mom was the waitress. When I was all finished, instead of bringing me my check she asked if I she could bring me something to read. I thought that was very odd. Still, she and the chef (I'm assuming her husband) were nice people. After paying the bill, I went for another stroll to that “island paradise” with the wooden bridge, little monastery and swans. And then back to my hotel room to settle in for the night. I knew I had a long day of train travel ahead of me on Saturday as I journeyed on to Guarda.
Jul 29th, 2008, 03:21 PM
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Susan,
I am *always* impressed by someone who travels solo and has such a magnificent time doing so.
Your days are filled with terrific sights and activities.
I would like to travel alone sometime, I think, just to say that I did it and to see how I would function!
I am *always* impressed by someone who travels solo and has such a magnificent time doing so.
Your days are filled with terrific sights and activities.
I would like to travel alone sometime, I think, just to say that I did it and to see how I would function!
Jul 29th, 2008, 04:06 PM
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Thanks, Meredith and TuckH! I'm leaving for Colorado on Saturday to visit friends and want to make sure the report is written and posted before then.... else my memory may become clouded!!
dwzemens, I would encourage you to try a solo trip. It forces you to engage in conversation with locals... to get directions or help. You will end up having nice conversations with some of them.
S
dwzemens, I would encourage you to try a solo trip. It forces you to engage in conversation with locals... to get directions or help. You will end up having nice conversations with some of them.
S
Jul 29th, 2008, 04:47 PM
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Susan, I think I know the ceramic shop you are talking about. I remember walking by one on several different occasions but never did go in. I probably should have but I knew I'd end up buying something! lol.
