I have been waiting until I got all notes organized and thought out before posting, but I can see that won't happen right away, so here goes and thanks to Mary and Cigalechanta for the hints about the Lush products(Mary)and Intralgis(CCh):

Week 1
We have been spending 3 weeks in Paris every year and have just returned from another great stay. Easy, comfortable trip over on Continental--no lost baggage or delays which is almost embarrassing to report after reading the Italian trip boondoggle posted on this forum! We stay in an apt/hotel on the river and get a room with a view--I say good morning to the Sacre-Coeur every am! Nice to have coffee and pastries in the room. We are very near the rue de Buci area so provisioning was a breeze and a delight. WE bought pastries from Paul and another place right across the street which I thought were better. Our first supper was at Chez Fernand on rue Christine. I don't like to go into too much detail about meals because that can get very lengthy over 3 weeks, but my first course of tatin of endive and roquefort may have been one of the best things we ate during our entire stay! Also had a great veal liver with caramelized onions and mashed potatoes. Wonderful meal with delightful service.

The next day we walked around the Jacob/St. Germain and just enjoyed the window displays and street scenes then went out late to a wine bar(L'Ecluse)and on to Le Depart for a huge plate of crepes(Belle Epoque). Good crepes piled high with whipped cream--don't remember the fillings but it was ohlala!!

Saturday we walked around the Marais, decided against the Pompidou(line too long)and (we still have plenty of days, right)then lunch under the arcades at Ma Bourgogne. LOVE that ham hock with lima beans!!! We rested after that long walk and great lunch then went out at 10 for pizza. We mistakenly drank a whole bottle of Samaur with the pizza so slept until noon the next day! Oh well, luckily we still have plenty of days--I keep telling myself!

Sunday we window shopped on rue du Dragon and Cherche Midi--no real shopping as everything was closed. I made plenty of mental notes of things that I really needed(!)as we made our way to the Luxembourg to enjoy the children sailing the toy boats and families enjoying the day. That didn't last too long because the rain came! We had supper in our room that night of wonderful prepared foods we bought on or around the Buci/Dauphine area. The bread is HEAVENLY toasted with that wonderful butter with sea salt cyrstals in it! Terrine of foie gras from Coesnon Bros(rue DAuphine), wonderful radishes and strawberries from the fruit man,great cheeses, olives, bottle of Mersault--who needs a restaurant?

Rainy Monday we metro-ed to the Grand Palais for an exhibition then walked around the rue Marbeuf and had lunch sl. off that street at CAfe L'Estel(seemed Auvergnant)then next door to a very expensive fruit shop(Vignon?). I don't like the 8th as much as 5,6,7 but we were there so... Dinner that night at Ferme St. Germain(rue du Dragon) and it was not so great. Now HOLD ON--this was NOT the Ferme St. Simon which is fabulous--please note name difference. It would not be a repeat but their meringues for the floating island were the largest I have ever seen!!! They were larger than a softball and not tough, surprisingly.

Tuesday clear and nice. We walked around Place Dauphine to look at the restaurants there then to Ile St. Louis. One of our best meals at what would become a favorite restaurant(and a return)--le Tastevin(rue St Louis-en-l'Ille). We were warmly welcomed by "Madame" and had a lovely lunch. I had the misperception that restaurants in that area were tourist traps with nondescipt food--was I ever wrong about that!!! This was a wonderful experience all around and one we would repeat at night. Supper in the room of wonderful cheese and terrines that we stopped to buy just down the street from Madame.

Wednesday we headed to the Bastille for an art exhibition of hundreds of artists. Mostly inside and some outside in plastic covered booths--very interesting and mind boggling. There were just too many to be able to really look closely and enjoy everything! Lunch across the street at les Associes. We walked back along St. Antoine(we saved the Fauborg St. A for another day because after all, we have so many days left). We stopped in the St. Gervais/St. Potois square on the recommendation of someone from this forum(Mary?) and enjoyed looking around there. Lovely supper that night at Caveau de Palais in Place Dauphine. We loved our table in the window(it was too cold to dine outside). We loved the white asparagus and grilled fish.

More later--the next day was my first Ispahan!!! Must report on that!

Hi arriba, enjoying your report..and congratulations on your luggage not travelling to some other location, lol! That is always a good beginning to any vacation.

A question, you mentioned that you had Ham Hocks with Lima Beans. That is one of my favorite dishes. I only have one receipe..which I love. But I am curious if you or if anyone else here knows how it is prepared in Paris? I had no idea the French even served that dish. Thanks!

I love hocks too and use them in beans here but the hocks available here are not as good as the huge one I had at Ma B. It seemed the hock had not been cooked in the beans which had a tomato base this time--not so with the last bowl I ate there. I wonder if the hock had been roasted--it did not seem boiled. I cook them with the beans when I use them. I am sorry I can't be more specific. The hock did not seem smoked but was cured in some way.

It WAS a treat to have all of our belongings--especially underwear that fit! I did buy some gorgeous "lawnzheray" but only because I wanted to--not shopping under the gun!!!

Hi arriba, roasted, interesting. I always cook them with the beans too. I will have to expirement, as I understand how you think they were prepared. Now about that "lawnherezy" good for you..something else I love!!
I do hope your report will be long..I am looking forward to the next installment! Take care.

Hi arriba! Wonderful report!! Thanks for the shoutout. I loved Cigalechanta's report, too, especially since she has such great tidbits of info (can't wait to try the Intralgis next time).

So DO tell us all about your favorite resto, Caveau de Palais on the Place Dauphine! I can't believe I stayed just doors down from there & never knew what a great place it is. Wish you'd told me before I went. ;-D

So where exactly is your apt? Is it a place any of us could rent? And what's the name of that patisserie across the street (across the street from your hotel or from Paul?).

Heh heh - "lawnzheray" - love that. Way to get it past the censors.

Oui, the area behind St-Gervais, the rue des Barres area - I love that spot - so charming, so medieval.

Beatchick--I will answer your questions and finish my report--boy oh boy do I have more!!!

We stay at the Citadines St.Germain on the quai des Grands Augustins. Apt/hotel chain--anyone can stay there. It is not charming or funky, but modern and fits our needs wonderfully. There are people at the front desk that can help with reservations, but do NOT expect concierge services from them. They do what they can but are always busy with phones, reservations, checking guests in etc. Most speak some English, some not so well--but I know enough to get by. We get a 1 bedroom apt with a view of the city and river. They rent studios which we looked at but the couch folds out to make your bed and we just did not want to spend 3 weeks like that(we are well past the age of backpacking and "roughing" it and my husband would consider that roughing it!!! Lucky for me, I guess!! There is a small kitchen, fairly nicely supplied. But the selling point for us is the location and view. We have stayed there 4 times now and for an extended stay, it is perfect for us.

I did not keep the name of the pastry shop across from the Paul but it is on the rue de Buci and in the same stretch of the block as JPT Traiteur, Carton, and Bonbonerie de Buci. The sell bread, pastry, and maybe
chocolate.

As much as we loved the Caveau de Palais, we ended up agreeing that le Tastevin was our favorite of the trip. WE also ate right down from Caveau at Restaurant Paul which we liked better than CAveau. That will be in "the rest of the story"!

I love hearing about Paris! It sounds like a fantastic vacation...can't wait for more info.

2nd week--the week of the Ispahan!!! Cold, cloudy Thursday and we set off to check out all this madness involving a pastry with a funny name. We walked to Peirre Herme's shop on rue du Bac right at St. Sulpice. The shop is small and gorgeous and he obviously hires only good looking young people! There was no line and we bought 2 Ispahan and 2 canneles. They very wisely offer napkins and forks--how did they know that we would get just 1/2block before diving in? We managed to find a bench facing the Sulpice that had not been annointed with pigeon--well,you know! The pastries were packaged so attractively I actually hated to open everything! Well, I must say, it lives up to the hype: pink macaron on top and bottom flavored with rose flower water filled with lichee flavored cream and fresh raspberries all around the edge. Each one is garnished with a perfect red rose petal which has 1 drop of glycerine to resemble a perfect dew drop. I think there was a small chocolate "PH" emblem on top also. I hated to eat this gorgeous creation, but since I was on a quest felt duty bound. It was sublime! I would have gone back to the shop to buy more for the room but know they don't keep well. Not worry, we will beating a path to this shop every time we are even somewhat close by--like on the same side of the river!!! We ate the canneles later in the room and after trying other baker's efforts, agreed that PH were far and away the best. The outer dark crust is just crackly, chewy good unlike crusts of any other products we tried(Paul, Dallayou, Miss Manon).

Following that wonderful sugar break, we walked to the Chereche Midi and Bon Marche, toured the wonderful Conran store, then to the rue Jacob for lunch at Cafe Pre au Clerc. Cute, personable waiters and a good salad with bleu d'Avergne, walnuts, lardons--yum!! We "provisioned" for supper in the room that night in Buci area and Coesnon on Dauphine. Great meal of white asparagus, ham(unlike any ham we get--she sliced it off a gorgeous pink haunch while I watched), cheeses, radishes, bread and du vin!

Friday we walked to BHV(just LOVE that store)then to actually go into the Pompidou. Lunch nearby first at Cafe l'Excelsior just behind the museum--good quiche and salad. VERY cold walk back! Early supper that night at Relais l'Entrecote. Husband wanted crepes but wanted to sit and enjoy instead of stand on street. We went to Creperie St. Andre des Arts--I know it is favored by many on this board but the crepes were not good. Obviously pre-cooked and maybe held too long--the crepes were gummy,glue-y, and sort of rubbery tough. Street crepes from this point on--and they were always perfect!

Saturday was cold and rainy but we walked anyway! Went to rue du Bac to shop and then back to have lunch in room. We were going to eat "big" that night and didn't want to fill up at lunch. We metro'd to le Dome on Blvd. Montparnasse which is a favorite. The sole menuiere(sp?)is sublime! I love their millefeuille--it is displayed and looks like a big brown log! A slice of heaven!

Cold rainy Sunday--perfect for the Petite Palais!! WONDERFUL building, easy to do. No line when we arrived(around 11 or 12--we are not early risers). When we left, maybe around 3p, the line trailed outside(raining)and almost to the street!! I guess most are later abed than we, or maybe are more holy and went to church! Anyway, worth a tour! We walked all the way back to the hotel in the rain--crossed at the Pont Alexandre and slogged along. Supper in room then out late for crepes(still not as good as street crepes)at le Depart. Great people watching from there as the fountain St. Michel is quite a gathering place!

Monday was a holiday(May 1st)and we searched behind the Tour Montparnasse for a musuem which, of course, was closed. Not prob, we just LOVE the Monparnasse area and enjoy walking there. GREAT lunch at le Select--I had Salade Folle(crazy salad) with foie gras, he had magret with green peppercorn sauce--just fab!!! Glad to get such a good feed since we had tried to go to an old favorite Belle Epoque style-- Monparnasse 1900(used to be Bistro de la Gare--I think). They were "complete" so back on the street but not disappointed since lunch was grand! Walked back and provisioned on the way and had a great supper in room of white asparagus, quiche, creme brulee and Sauternes.

Tuesday--back to rue du Bac to complete shopping then walked down St. germain to the Patrick Roger shop--chocolate from heaven! Gorgeous packaging too! Lunch of great thin crust pizza at Del Arte--not a place I would think would be great, but the pizza is cooked in woodburning oven and is sublime! This is an Italina chain(or feels like it)and is worth a stop. It is located at the convergence of St. Germain and Blvd. St. Michel and says "del Arte" on one side and something else on the other--maybe something Doree? A long anticipated dinner that night at le Voltaire just a few blocks down the quais from us. Very welcoming staff, we were seated in the first little room which was hot,dark and stuffy. This was like being a stranger in a private club--everyone that came was kiss/kissed and made over. Shopping bags from Chanel and Yves St. Laurent were taken and held for the gorgeous ladies who arrived in private cars with drivers who waited double parked while they ate. The food was just okay--maybe we ordered badly. I ordered a mushroom salad which I assumed would be sort of a composed salad like most we see--well, it was a HUGE bowl of shaved white mushrooms with lemon juice. 6 people could have eaten these mushrooms! It became tiresome REALLY quickly!! He started with white asparagus with hollandaise--oh YEAH, I could have just eaten that sauce and been happy! Then, we split a rack of lamordered for 2 people) which was really overcooked--we wanted med rare. Great frites just out of the grease and small dished of puree of carrots and potatoes. Dessert of profiteroles for him with the best chocolate sauce I have ever tasted and I had spiced peaches. The "beautiful people" were seated in other rooms which we did not get to see. We have read so much about this place and heard wonderful things, but it was not wonderful for us. Service was good and food okay, but at those prices especially, not a repeat.

To be continued

Bonjour, arriba!! I love reading everything you've written about. As a much-traveled Parisophile, I certainly love reading your perspective on things, especially the places that are worth going and the places one should avoid such as Le Voltaire, although it may be worth going to try the profiteroles. I tried them for the first time at Au Pied de Cochon and was decidedly underwhelmed as the pastry part tasted chewy and a bit stale. Wasn't sure if that's just the way they were there or if that's just how profiteroles are. After reading the raves they get on the board, I'd been eager to try them. LOL - every time I see the phrase "beautiful people" I hear that horrid Marilyn Manson song in my head. Sorry, can't help it!

So glad you found the Lush place and were able to pick up some bath items - yay!!

I searched on Les Pages Jaunes for Paul on rue de Buci. They have it listed as 17-21 rue de Buci. Across from those addresses are 12 & 14 rue de Buci. At #12 is Bonbonniere de Buci (love that place!) and Traiteur Delice Buci. Do you suppose it's the traiteur? In any case, I don't think you can go wrong with anyplace on that stretch of street, do you?

Your apartment with its views sounds wonderful and glad to hear that the ispahan macaron from Pierre Hermé lives up to the hype - you describe it so beautifully.

"a great supper in room of white asparagus, quiche, creme brulee and Sauternes"
Did your white asparagus come pre-cooked from a traiteur? Reminds me of the wonderful marinated artichokes I found from the Italian traiteur on the rue Cler a few years back. Provisioning for supper in Paris, now THAT'S a way to gather a meal together, no, cherie?!?!

"annointed with pigeon--well,you know!"
hilariously put

So tell us more about the Petit Palais - what did you see inside?

Eager to hear more, especially about Paul on Place Dauphine!!

Ugggh, I meant since YOU are a much-traveled Parisophile...

Not me, I've only been 4 times.

Beatchick--I am probably the only person who would ever say le Voltaire was not just perfection! It is VERY highly rated and mentioned in several magazines as THE place to dine. Oh well, we just did not order well. The fish was SO expensive(one item was 70E!!)that I just did not feel right ordering so extravagantly. The asparagus were heavenly as was the hollandaise with it. The profiteroles were VERY good there and the choux pastry just perfect.

I am quite sure the pastry shop we liked so much was "Carton" and it is probably located across the Buci from the back door of the Champion and Nicholas wine shop. Small shop, good pastry and bread. Some of their loaves are so long they break it or cut it for ease in carrying. Sorry I misdirected you on that!

We would buy white asparagus from the veg/fruit man on rue de Buci and once from the Champion which were just as good as those bought on the street! I cooked them in the room--we had a 2 burner stove and a few pots. Once we bought them pre-cooked from the traiteur--also good.

The Petite Palais is not an ancient bldg--erected 1902 for an exposition. It houses a large collection donated by one person(can't remember his name)and they have added to his collection. Many 17th C paintings(Dutch), some impressionists, very old china and majolica, tapestries, rare books and manuscripts. There is a delightful interior garden area. The cafe looked very nice and spacious--many tables had tablecloths--more than just a coffeeshop/cafe I think.

We just LOVED restaurant Paul in the Place Dauphine and enjoyed sitting outside that night--more on that coming up!

Last installment! Wednesday May 3

We took the metro tp the Foire de Paris at the Parc des Exposition @ Porte de versailles. We did this last year and really enjoyed seeing this fabulous trade show for food, home decor including models of kitchens and bathrooms, crafts, goods from around the world(South america, china, Thailand, Mexico,)food products of France and of course, wine! Free tastings of everything and many sit down places to dine on the wonderful products of France! This exposition area is HUGE and spread in several very large buildings. If walking from end to end is a problem, there is a tiny train complete with bell and toot-toot whistle slowly making its way around the grounds. It as nice to "dine in" that night after such a long hot day

Thursday we shopped in the Rivoli and Honore area and of course, the wonderful food shops around the Madeleine! I went in the Maille shop to get the "purple mustard" I read about on this forum--cassis flavored, I think. There were several people ahead of me and it appeared the stock was all kept downstairs? I just did not want to wait and of course, never made it back! Hediard was amazing--could cherries REALLY cost 99E/kilo? I double checked the price and I don't think it was 9.90--it really looked like 9900(the zeroes were small). Supper that night at Restaurant Paul in Place Dauphine. Lovely outside watching very attractive couples play boules. They had trays of wine and glasses on a tray from the next door restaurant Caveau de Palais. Our "waitperson" was a gorgeous young woman who spoke a little English to our little French and was so friendly and charming--what a treat. I had a wonderful salad of hearts of romaine with shavings of really good Parmesan and Balsamic viniagrette. Husband had a saute of snails that was divine! The seasonings were amazing--the snails were sauteed with some peppers, onions and seasoned exotically--not the typical persillade you usually get with snails. We both had sauteed veal liver and potato galette that was cooked wonderfully pink--just perfect. He finished with baba au rhum--not my favorite thing and it was okay. A wonderful evening!

Friday--more shopping and a great discovery for lunch. We were near St. Sulpice(yes, another Ispahan that am!)and stopped at Bistrot de la Grille St. Germain rue Mabillon near Marche St. Germain. We sat outside and enjoyed another veal liver(he says best of the trip)and I had confit of lamb with vegetables cooked jsut right!
After a rest, out for a light supper just down the street at l'Ecluse(wine bar). There was a film crew there filming an interview with a jazz musician who happens to really like this place--interesting to watch..

Saturday--metro ride back to Bastille area to Faubourg St. Antoine and the Viaduct--LOVED the restoration craftsmen and design shops. Several were closed because they were attending an antique fair at Parc Monceau. REally nice walk, not a high tourist area and as a result, not crowded(LOVE that)! Return to le Tastevin for dinner--walked in the pouring rain to get there. We thought about trying to get a caimpossible)and the traffic was at a complete standstill in all directions!! Tempers were flaring, horns honking, people yelling and no one was moving!! We were glad to have our tiny umbrellas and old shoes on! le Tastevin in more lovely by night and we had a wonderful dinner and nice visit with "Madame" who verified what we had seen about the traffic--when it rains in Paris, traffic gets crazy!

Rainy Sunday--walked to Musee d'Orsay and of course the line went around several blocks. We kept walking and looking and turning corners to finally see the end! No way! We walked around the neighborhood behind it and found Musee Malliott which was open and had a Magritte exhibition. Nice "do-able" small museum. Dallayou pastries to follow--not as fine as Pierre Herme, but nice at that moment. We ended up at St. Sulpice(we are real wanderers and just love meandering through neighborhoods)and had pizza for lunch at Bartolo. Brick oven pizza--really good--crust thicker than that at del Arte(Brioche Doree?). We were the only americans--all others were families together. Most were French but I thought a few could have been speaking Italian. Good supper in room that night.

Monday--all the days that stretched endlessly before us have magically, tragically disappeared!! Where has the time gone? We thought we would seem to be here forever and it is now almost time to pack and head back to reality!!! Shopping frenzy for all the things I lazily thought I could pick up later when I was in the mood!! Shopping, shopping, lunch, shopping, shopping!!! Supper at Le Reminet that I learned about here. Warm welcome and nice meal. We sat next to an American couple who had been here before and were amazed at the good quality of the wine list with amazingly low prices. We discussed out experience at le Voltaire with them and their take on it was entirely different from ours--they loved it and go there every year when they are in town on business. Oh well!

Tuesday--last day! Cold and rainy of course! Luckily, that enabled me to find the Lush products described by beatchick! I had passed the shop many times but never really looked inside carefully. I don't think there is a sign on the door saying Lush--I think it says something else. Since it was so dark outside and brightly lit from within I could see the soaps and finally the sign for LUSH! Finally--able to check that off!!! I loaded up with gifts for several people and set off again on my final quest more perfect gifts! We wanted to eat in the neighborhood and did not want a reservation and happened to find "il Viccoli" on the quiet end of rue Mazarine. What a find! Wonderful Italian--they make the pasta in house and it was perfect! I had wonderful, tender ravioli filled with ricotta and spinach in sage butter, husband had shrimp tagiatelle(again, pasta tender and perfect) and tiramisu. Split a bottle of Badia Coltibuono. They were so accomodating--we arrived 10 minutes before they were really "open" which would have been 8p. The staff was still at table--how embarrassing!! A charming young waiter asks if we would come in and wait 10 minutes which we gladly did rather than start a search for a different place. Worth the wait and a definite return!

My "re-entry" into reality was not fun after total indulgence in Paris! Water the lawn? Wash clothes? Shop for tasteless produce then actually prep it and cook it?? The worst part is missing the beauty of Paris and all she has to offer! What a letdown! I have been reading trip reports and making notes of things we missed in hopes that our next trip will be even more perfect!!

Thanks to everyone who posts for sharing!

Ah, yes, I see that now on Les Pages Jaunes! In the photo at 6 rue de Buci the sign says Carton while in Les Pages Jaunes it's listed as Buci. I'll have to add that to my list, arriba. Thanks so much.

"Many 17th C paintings(Dutch), some impressionists, very old china and majolica, tapestries, rare books and manuscripts. There is a delightful interior garden area. The cafe looked very nice and spacious--many tables had tablecloths--more than just a coffeeshop/cafe I think."
That sounds really nice. I'd love seeing the Impressionists, the old china & majolica. Nice!

"I went in the Maille shop to get the "purple mustard" I read about on this forum--cassis flavored, I think. There were several people ahead of me and it appeared the stock was all kept downstairs? I just did not want to wait and of course, never made it back!"
I remember they kept the stock in a glass case. So sorry you didn't make it back this trip but you go quite often so I'm sure you'll make it next time. I wish I'd picked some of the cassis mustard for myself.

I went to Mac one day (on the rue de Rivoli near the Duluc Detective Agency) to buy some lipstick but they were closed and I never made it back.

"Hediard was amazing--could cherries REALLY cost 99E/kilo? I double checked the price and I don't think it was 9.90--it really looked like 9900(the zeroes were small)."
Well, I don't know. Doesn't a kilo weigh a lot, though?

I've read great things about Paul; glad to see your experience there mirrored other comments - your dinner sounds divine!

Magritte does make a nice substitute for the d'Orsay, doesn't it?

"Shopping frenzy for all the things I lazily thought I could pick up later when I was in the mood!!"
Ha ha, I did the same thing the Friday before I was to leave.

I think the only reason I found Lush was because I'd written the address down ahead of time and purposely went to look for it. Don't recall, either, that you'd notice the shop from the facade.

Il Vicoli, your Italian resto, sounds great - I'll have to try it next time.

Arriba, thanks for posting your trip report - I loved reading every single tidbit and will save info for next trip!

Wonderful report, thank you, arriba.
Lucky you, three weeks every year. Unfortunately for me, my husband doesn't like big cities, so I never get my thirst quenched for Paris. I hope the Intralgis worked for you.

The thought of Hermé's macarons !!!!!!
I think I maybe one of the few fodorites that dislikes Lush.

Sorry to hear Voltaire was a diisappointment but that's ok except for the price Posters are always disagreeing on others dining choices or places. It's only importsnt what we think. It's our dime.
Both the petite and Grand Palais went through renovation and only recently reopened. The Petite that opened for the Universal exposition has the collection of Auguste Dutuit, not only did he give them these fine works of art but also left a fund for future acquisitions.

I hope you'll be adding more of your trip, you and Mary know alot about the City of Light.

Mimi, I know another Fodorite who doesn't care for Lush, either; says that the smell is too strong in the store. But you love those lovely classic scents, don't you?

Agree with the assessment over restaurants. Many disagree with me on one of my favorites, Le Vieux Bistro, but many also love it. I don't mind that people don't agree with my tastes as long as they don't pooh-pooh what I like; as far as I know, I've never done that to anyone else.

The Lush store had some giant "fizzy" balls to put in your bath. I bought a pack of 4 for a special little girl who LOVES all things pink! These balls were pink with pink flowers on top. Heavier than I would have liked but she loved them! Also brought some pink butterflies(looks real) and a pink diary--"Mon Carnet de Secrets" with a tiny little lock from a really nice stationery store on rue Dauphine. It is SO easy to shop for children there!

arriba! Love your report!
LOL, we have a Lush store a few blocks from my home and it is alway fun to just walk by, the scent seeps out of the building
Bath Bombs are wonderful, my favorite is Waving Not Drowning
We usually stay on rue Jacob , so you are describing all of our old haunts! rue Dragon and shoe shopping can be addictive!
I am looking forward to hearing more of your trip.