Paris----did we make the right decision?
Sep 25th, 2009, 12:56 PM
#1
Paris----did we make the right decision?
As we fly across the Atlantic, I wonder if I made the right decision . Not a trivial decision-----like did I marry the right man 35 years ago, but should we be going back to Paris again? Will it still be the wonderful, vibrant city we remember, or have "stayed too long at the fair?"
We chose Air France, Chicago to CDG direct. The last two years we used Frequent Flyer miles and had to change in places like Newark (bad experiences) which made for very long travel days.. Our current flight went quick and flawlessly. We were off to my birthday trip.
Arriving at CDG bright and early in the morning, we decided to get adventerous and take the RER-Metro into the city. It was relatively easy to do, as per Fodorite advice, and signifigantly less expensive at 17 Euros for 2, but I wouldn't try it if you have a lot of luggage to manage. We had three carry on pieces and that was as much as we could handle thru turnstiles and train station steps. The savings was worth the hassle and we felt a little more like Parisians and less like outsiders that needed our private car or taxi to find the city.
OK, things are going pretty well. We're a little apprehensive as we approach our apt. on St. Louis en Ile. We had rented a smaller apt. from a service we had never used, although we were hopeful having met the American owners of the property entirely by chance the year before.
We were aware that it was going to be seriously smaller than previous trips, but we also know that it's location, location, location and Ile St. Louis is "our" place to stay.
One flight up, we gingerly opened the door and VOILA!!! Yes it's teeny-tiny, but cute as could be, and what a good use of space (as they say on HGTV). The efficient kitchen has all new everything, dishwasher, washing machine, cook top oven, microwave, frig, you name it. All the dishes, stemware, wine opener, everything we need and a little more. The butcher block counter opens to a contemporary living room, dining room with a steep staircase leading to the sleeping loft, bath w/large shower.
There is one challenge to make this apt. work----you'd better be short! TheLR has a tall ceiling, but when you climb the stairs to the bed/bath----OOOPS! The beamed ceiling upstairs has a 5'8' clearance which at 5'4" and 5'6" was fine for us, but would clearly not work for many.
In a matter of minutes we were snug as a bug in a rug. It does not have a view, but overlooks a quiet courtyard. Just footsteps from several bakeries and The Seine, we knew we made a great choice.
Here's the apt. Website:
http://www.servissimo-paris.com/apar...-paris_EN.html
TO BE CONTINUED
We chose Air France, Chicago to CDG direct. The last two years we used Frequent Flyer miles and had to change in places like Newark (bad experiences) which made for very long travel days.. Our current flight went quick and flawlessly. We were off to my birthday trip.
Arriving at CDG bright and early in the morning, we decided to get adventerous and take the RER-Metro into the city. It was relatively easy to do, as per Fodorite advice, and signifigantly less expensive at 17 Euros for 2, but I wouldn't try it if you have a lot of luggage to manage. We had three carry on pieces and that was as much as we could handle thru turnstiles and train station steps. The savings was worth the hassle and we felt a little more like Parisians and less like outsiders that needed our private car or taxi to find the city.
OK, things are going pretty well. We're a little apprehensive as we approach our apt. on St. Louis en Ile. We had rented a smaller apt. from a service we had never used, although we were hopeful having met the American owners of the property entirely by chance the year before.
We were aware that it was going to be seriously smaller than previous trips, but we also know that it's location, location, location and Ile St. Louis is "our" place to stay.
One flight up, we gingerly opened the door and VOILA!!! Yes it's teeny-tiny, but cute as could be, and what a good use of space (as they say on HGTV). The efficient kitchen has all new everything, dishwasher, washing machine, cook top oven, microwave, frig, you name it. All the dishes, stemware, wine opener, everything we need and a little more. The butcher block counter opens to a contemporary living room, dining room with a steep staircase leading to the sleeping loft, bath w/large shower.
There is one challenge to make this apt. work----you'd better be short! TheLR has a tall ceiling, but when you climb the stairs to the bed/bath----OOOPS! The beamed ceiling upstairs has a 5'8' clearance which at 5'4" and 5'6" was fine for us, but would clearly not work for many.
In a matter of minutes we were snug as a bug in a rug. It does not have a view, but overlooks a quiet courtyard. Just footsteps from several bakeries and The Seine, we knew we made a great choice.
Here's the apt. Website:
http://www.servissimo-paris.com/apar...-paris_EN.html
TO BE CONTINUED
Sep 25th, 2009, 03:14 PM
#4
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 489
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi TPAYT
So glad you liked your apt on the Ile. We too were there at the same time celebrating my birthday and had a wonderful 8 days. Am still trying to get myself together to write a report. Congrats to you that you have started.
We were very happy with our apt on Quai d'Orleans which had a lovely little balcony and great views. This was our 4th trip and I must admit I also wondered if we were overdoing it and am happy to say it was our best trip ever. The apt idea is definitely the way to go.
Looking forward to the rest of your report.
So glad you liked your apt on the Ile. We too were there at the same time celebrating my birthday and had a wonderful 8 days. Am still trying to get myself together to write a report. Congrats to you that you have started.
We were very happy with our apt on Quai d'Orleans which had a lovely little balcony and great views. This was our 4th trip and I must admit I also wondered if we were overdoing it and am happy to say it was our best trip ever. The apt idea is definitely the way to go.
Looking forward to the rest of your report.
Sep 26th, 2009, 04:56 AM
#7
kerouac----I'm up drinking coffee(it's a lot earlier here) and drafting some more of my review, but I got distracted by your gorgeous photos of one of our favorite places, Luxembourg Gardens. Bravo!
Sep 26th, 2009, 06:44 AM
#10
Continuing on-----
Having been to Paris many times we had no agenda for our time. Every morning MDH made a boulangerie run while I brewed coffee (the extent of my cooking).
We couldn't get enough of those baguettes with butter and raspberry jam. And the pastry---I'm still dreaming about that flat croissant dough filled with pistaccio paste and chocolate with thin sliced almonds on top---yummmmm!
We've done most of the majors so one day we leisurely strolled The Marais, had a coffee and people watched.
Another day we decided on 2 places we hadn't seen. First the Deportation Memorial (very touching). After that we took the Metro to the Petit Palais (interesting), then took a slow walk through the Tuilleries & Louvre plaza, along the right bank of the Seine, stopping at a few pet shops. We are cat lovers, but who pays 3800 Euro for a cat? Yikes!
Luxembourg Gardens is one of our favorite places to spend time, especially on a Sunday.(Check out kerouac's photos--fabulous!) We listened to a band from Barcelona and watched people folk dancing in a circle, had a coffee, watched the petanque(sp?) players, and looked an eerie display from World War 2. In the Luxembourg Museum was a marvelous display of Tiffany glass. Why were we looking at New York glass in Paris? Art I guess.
After that we saw an art fair in Notre Dame park and bought some note cards. Kind of hard to transport a 4 ft. painting back to the states.
As far as shopping goes, this was it.
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...s-clothing.cfm
The weather was beautiful for the most part. Cool in the morning, hot in the afternoon, and warm & pleasant in the evening. So much so that a late night Seine boat tour from Pont Neuf on Vedettes(print the money off coupon from the internet site) was perfect.
On TV, MDH saw an ad for a Cyarno de Bergerac fireworks spectacular at Versailles. Off to FNAC we went and purchased tickets for the following night at 9:30(120 Euros for 2). Spectacular it was--- fireworks over the pond with the Palace glowing in the background.
What a leisurely trip! Maybe not active enough for some, but we were sure enjoying it.
RESTAURANTS TO FOLLOW;
Having been to Paris many times we had no agenda for our time. Every morning MDH made a boulangerie run while I brewed coffee (the extent of my cooking).
We couldn't get enough of those baguettes with butter and raspberry jam. And the pastry---I'm still dreaming about that flat croissant dough filled with pistaccio paste and chocolate with thin sliced almonds on top---yummmmm!
We've done most of the majors so one day we leisurely strolled The Marais, had a coffee and people watched.
Another day we decided on 2 places we hadn't seen. First the Deportation Memorial (very touching). After that we took the Metro to the Petit Palais (interesting), then took a slow walk through the Tuilleries & Louvre plaza, along the right bank of the Seine, stopping at a few pet shops. We are cat lovers, but who pays 3800 Euro for a cat? Yikes!
Luxembourg Gardens is one of our favorite places to spend time, especially on a Sunday.(Check out kerouac's photos--fabulous!) We listened to a band from Barcelona and watched people folk dancing in a circle, had a coffee, watched the petanque(sp?) players, and looked an eerie display from World War 2. In the Luxembourg Museum was a marvelous display of Tiffany glass. Why were we looking at New York glass in Paris? Art I guess.
After that we saw an art fair in Notre Dame park and bought some note cards. Kind of hard to transport a 4 ft. painting back to the states.
As far as shopping goes, this was it.
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...s-clothing.cfm
The weather was beautiful for the most part. Cool in the morning, hot in the afternoon, and warm & pleasant in the evening. So much so that a late night Seine boat tour from Pont Neuf on Vedettes(print the money off coupon from the internet site) was perfect.
On TV, MDH saw an ad for a Cyarno de Bergerac fireworks spectacular at Versailles. Off to FNAC we went and purchased tickets for the following night at 9:30(120 Euros for 2). Spectacular it was--- fireworks over the pond with the Palace glowing in the background.
What a leisurely trip! Maybe not active enough for some, but we were sure enjoying it.
RESTAURANTS TO FOLLOW;
Sep 26th, 2009, 06:48 PM
#14
Everything went fine with the agency. They have an office close by to pick up the key.
It was a double bed---cozy, not like the king we're used to, but doable.
Yes, the bath & shower were the same 5'8' clearance. There was a dressing table with a chair upstairs. I thought it was funny that I had to sit to comb my hair because I couldn't reach my arms up above my head.
Oh well, the location and price were perfect and it was so cute & comfortable that we would definitely stay there again.
It was a double bed---cozy, not like the king we're used to, but doable.
Yes, the bath & shower were the same 5'8' clearance. There was a dressing table with a chair upstairs. I thought it was funny that I had to sit to comb my hair because I couldn't reach my arms up above my head.
Oh well, the location and price were perfect and it was so cute & comfortable that we would definitely stay there again.
Sep 27th, 2009, 10:17 AM
#15
On to food. We basically stuck to tried and true places we've been before and then got more adventuresome in The Loire Valley(report to follow on a separate thread).
LE FLORE EN ILE
Our only real disappointmentof the entire trip. At the bridge of St. Louis en Ile, we had previously enjoyed some good, quiet meals sitting by the open windows watching the worldgo by.
Upon return, the food had becaome mediocre at best, and the friendly staff had reverted to the worst stereotype of French waiters. From an overpriced breakfast served by a surly, smelly, inattentive waiter to an entirely forgettable dinner, I think we'll remove it from our list. The mere mention of the place makes MDH's blood pressure rise, where in years past it was one of our favorites.
On the other hand, many of our favorites were just as good as ever.
AU BOUGNAT at 26 Rue Chanoinesse
One of the best rib eye steaks w/potato for 18 Euros you'll find. A great value pleasantly served by the energetic "Boom". She's the host, waitress, bus person, English interpreter, and an all around delightful addition to the restaurant. I've also had excellent scallops in puff pastry there.
MARCO POLO AT 8 Rue de Conde
Our year after year favorite Italian restaurant in Paris with a very gracious staff. The melon w/prosciutto plus the grilled vegetable antipasto are the best. Followed by a veal or pasta dish it's a real winner.
L'ILOT VACHE at 35 Rue St. Louis en Ile
Such a pretty room with a great staff of 2(it's very small). They offer a price fixe, 3 course dinner for 37 Euros. As it was so good last year, I again had escargot, lamb chops, and creme brulee. Absolutely perfect, so glad we returned.
ATELIER MAITRE ALBERT at 1 Rue Maitre Albert (just off of Quai de Montebello)
Reservations a must, extremely busy. Known for their roasted meats, I had beef, MDH had their famous chicken. Both lived up to their reputation, but the daphinousse potatoes (somebody please correct my spelling!) were the best we have ever had. MDH also said his white bean, foie gras soup was memorable---and he's not one to mention food. It is expensive, but they did have one price fixe meal if it was to your liking. We would return
We also had crepes at Sarrasins(again spelling) on Rue St. Louis en Ile as recommended by a Fodorite. Good choice.
As far as ice cream goes, we again tried Berthillon, but still much prefer Amarino. Open until 11pm we stopped there often on RueSt.Louis en Ile for my favorite pistaccio, coconut, & vanilla cone.
Thanks again to all of you who contribute your thoughts and recommendations. I hope some of you find this report helpful.
One more thing I want to mention is a Fodorites suggestion of an English speaking cab service. We called 2 days ahead for an early ride to CDG. Very easy as per your post, and as you said "not only are they on time but usually early". Early they were, waiting outside for us as we brought our luggage down from our apt.
The # is 01-41-27-66-99 approx. 60-65 Euros and definitely worth the cost. With all of our shopping bags, the train would have been difficult.
I will post the trip report on our wonderful week in the Loire Valley separately under Chinon.
LE FLORE EN ILE
Our only real disappointmentof the entire trip. At the bridge of St. Louis en Ile, we had previously enjoyed some good, quiet meals sitting by the open windows watching the worldgo by.
Upon return, the food had becaome mediocre at best, and the friendly staff had reverted to the worst stereotype of French waiters. From an overpriced breakfast served by a surly, smelly, inattentive waiter to an entirely forgettable dinner, I think we'll remove it from our list. The mere mention of the place makes MDH's blood pressure rise, where in years past it was one of our favorites.
On the other hand, many of our favorites were just as good as ever.
AU BOUGNAT at 26 Rue Chanoinesse
One of the best rib eye steaks w/potato for 18 Euros you'll find. A great value pleasantly served by the energetic "Boom". She's the host, waitress, bus person, English interpreter, and an all around delightful addition to the restaurant. I've also had excellent scallops in puff pastry there.
MARCO POLO AT 8 Rue de Conde
Our year after year favorite Italian restaurant in Paris with a very gracious staff. The melon w/prosciutto plus the grilled vegetable antipasto are the best. Followed by a veal or pasta dish it's a real winner.
L'ILOT VACHE at 35 Rue St. Louis en Ile
Such a pretty room with a great staff of 2(it's very small). They offer a price fixe, 3 course dinner for 37 Euros. As it was so good last year, I again had escargot, lamb chops, and creme brulee. Absolutely perfect, so glad we returned.
ATELIER MAITRE ALBERT at 1 Rue Maitre Albert (just off of Quai de Montebello)
Reservations a must, extremely busy. Known for their roasted meats, I had beef, MDH had their famous chicken. Both lived up to their reputation, but the daphinousse potatoes (somebody please correct my spelling!) were the best we have ever had. MDH also said his white bean, foie gras soup was memorable---and he's not one to mention food. It is expensive, but they did have one price fixe meal if it was to your liking. We would return
We also had crepes at Sarrasins(again spelling) on Rue St. Louis en Ile as recommended by a Fodorite. Good choice.
As far as ice cream goes, we again tried Berthillon, but still much prefer Amarino. Open until 11pm we stopped there often on RueSt.Louis en Ile for my favorite pistaccio, coconut, & vanilla cone.
Thanks again to all of you who contribute your thoughts and recommendations. I hope some of you find this report helpful.
One more thing I want to mention is a Fodorites suggestion of an English speaking cab service. We called 2 days ahead for an early ride to CDG. Very easy as per your post, and as you said "not only are they on time but usually early". Early they were, waiting outside for us as we brought our luggage down from our apt.
The # is 01-41-27-66-99 approx. 60-65 Euros and definitely worth the cost. With all of our shopping bags, the train would have been difficult.
I will post the trip report on our wonderful week in the Loire Valley separately under Chinon.
Thread
Original Poster
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MademoiselleFifi
Europe
89
Feb 3rd, 2009 07:06 AM
TravelRibbon
Europe
20
May 1st, 2008 01:30 PM
