Go Back  Fodor's Travel Talk Forums > Destinations > Europe
Reload this Page >

Alpine experience by train through Austria and Switzerland

Search

Alpine experience by train through Austria and Switzerland

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Apr 29th, 2010, 11:44 PM
  #1  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Alpine experience by train through Austria and Switzerland

I hope this all makes sense.

I have about a week and a half in early June to make my way from Salzburg to Geneva, and I want to use it to have an experience of the austrian and swiss alps. Due to some books I read as a teenager, I am particularly interested in the Tyrol and the Bernese Oberland. I enjoy train travel as a scenic stressfree way to get from A to B, but not as a reason to travel, unless the views are truly unique. I'm female, in my thirties travelling alone. I'd prefer not to overstress myself by packing too much into a day. I've travelled a lot in Europe by train, but it's been awhile since I did it by myself. I'm planning to by a point to point ticket from Salzburg (well, vienna originally) to the border, as I believe they are valid for a month, and then get some sort of Swiss pass/card/whatsit. (Have to sit down and do the maths when my schedule is more certain.) I speak pretty decent german, but no french.

I would like specifically to:

See a glacier up close.
Sit in a train and watch the alps roll past.
Get some idea of the difference between the swiss alps and the austrian alps.
See an ice cave
Go up the Jungfraujoch
Go for a hike through alpine towns and meadows.
Go to Bern.
Stay in places with some character.
Anything else that's unique. I love castles, cheese and chocolate.

I'm considering spending a few nights in Hintertux, past Mayrhofen, as I can ski, walk through an ice cave, and go for a guided hike through some towns. Is skiing in June worth it? I am a beginner and will get a lesson and hire everything. The other option is to do this somewhere easier to get to, like innsbruck, and do day trips. (they also have guided hikes)

Next, how to get from the Tirol to the interlaken area? This is what's really got me stumped. Which way is the most scenic without being a major stress? Is the golden pass line worth detouring via, or should I just go in via bern? I've pretty much ruled out the glacier pass, as it would take an extra day.

Interlaken? I'm planning to do the area as day trips out of a single town, so as to hopefully go up the Jungfrau when the weather's nice. Any suggestions for a town? I may stay overnight in Bern, if the city is worth more than a day trip. Any other suggestions for daytrips? I really want to "geniessen" the area.

I realise this is a bit vague, as I'm not really sure what I"m looking for. Clarity I guess!
kjs4 is offline  
Old Apr 30th, 2010, 03:21 AM
  #2  
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,206
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
>I would like specifically to:

>See a glacier up close.

Trouble is, in June it is too early in the year to get up close. From late June/early July there are e.g. guided glacier crossings from Diavolezza down the Morteratsch glacier, but again - in June it is too dangerous.

>Sit in a train and watch the alps roll past.

On the way from Salzburg to Interlaken you will have many hours of that

>Get some idea of the difference between the swiss alps and the austrian alps.

There is more differences within the countries themselves than between the countries. The only difference is in the highest parts - places like Lauterbrunnen valley, Matterhorn orthe Aletsch glacier are unique.

>See an ice cave

Do you mean a cave with ice in it (lots of these all over the Alps...), or a cave in a glacier?

>Go up the Jungfraujoch

Expensive but beauriful

>Go for a hike through alpine towns and meadows.

That's something you can do all over the place...

>Go to Bern.

Why (only) Bern? Switzerland is full of historic cities and towns, not having suffered massive (city-destroying) warfare since 13th century.

>Stay in places with some character.

Lots of these...

>Anything else that's unique. I love castles, cheese and chocolate.

Something unique and not in the guidebooks? Go hiking on one of the subalpine meadows in the Toggenburg. Stop by any farm and ask them about cheese, cows and all the stuff. In June they don't yet have a lot to do and will be ready to show you a cheese cellar and explain things - as long as you don't barge in during the milking time.

>I'm considering spending a few nights in Hintertux, past Mayrhofen, as I can ski, walk through an ice cave, and go for a guided hike through some towns. Is skiing in June worth it?

As a fairly experienced skier: something between no and hell no. Within an hour or two after sunrise, the snow is heavy and wet, every turn will cost you double the normal force. If you are used to fresh snow you won't enjoy the experience.

>I am a beginner and will get a lesson and hire everything. The other option is to do this somewhere easier to get to, like innsbruck, and do day trips. (they also have guided hikes)

You don't need a guided hike, just a map. Being alone on the trail, at least for the few minutes ebtween encounters with other hikers, is hardly possible in a group and for me it is what I go hiking for.

>Next, how to get from the Tirol to the interlaken area? This is what's really got me stumped. Which way is the most scenic without being a major stress?

The msot direct line from Innsbruck to the Swiss border at Buchs is also the most scenic. Going to Bern is a detour: just get off at Pfäffikon, take the Voralpen-Express to Luzern and tehn the Brünig pass line to Interlaken. It will cost you an hour more than the route via Bern but IMO worth it if you have the time.

>Is the golden pass line worth detouring via, or should I just go in via bern?

It is actually shorter than going via Bern, but slower.

Don't be put off by all the "That-and-this Express" marketing names: they are all normal trains intended 90% to transport normal people on normal, everyday trips to work, school or shopping, They just get a few additional tourists on the same train by adding a fancy name.
altamiro is offline  
Old Apr 30th, 2010, 03:44 AM
  #3  
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 9,023
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Wow Altamiro gave you such great advice!

For lots of info on Swiss trains and passes, etc. here are some sites loaded with great info - www.swisstravelsystem.com - which links you to various scenic train lines like the fabled Golden Pass train that you could easily take between Interlaken and Lake Geneva (Montreux, a lovely base from which to hop to many neat places nearby and just an hour or so from Geneva by train) as well as lake boats, etc.; and www.ricksteves.com; www.seat61.com; www.budgeteuropetravel.com - download the latter's free European Planning & Rail Guide that has a good section on Swiss trains with itineray suggestions, etc.
IMO the Swiss Pass is hard to beat for anyone crossing Switzerland and dwelling a bit in the Jungfrau Region - the absolute highlight of Switzerland IMO.
Palenque is offline  
Old Apr 30th, 2010, 10:01 AM
  #4  
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 9,023
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
See a glacier up close.>

Well yes take the train up to the Jungfraujoch station, the highest in Europe and then hike to the nearby glacier or just stare at it from the observation deck.

Bern is a really nice city but it is a large city - most people would really rather stay up in the hills south of Interlaken - like in tiny Wengen, Murren or a bit larger Grindelwald - places where you can just sit on your hotel balcony and get drink up the intoxicating views.

And accommodations IME are really much cheaper across the board in the Interlaken area than Bern. Bern is a great day trip from the Interlaken area but i'd stay either in Interlaken or a nearby hill town easily accessible by mountain-climbing trains.
Palenque is offline  
Old May 4th, 2010, 07:28 AM
  #5  
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 9,023
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
>Is the golden pass line worth detouring via, or should I just go in via bern?>

If what you are wanting as mentioned in your OP - to sit on a train and see the Alps roll by then yes the Golden Pass train from Interlaken to Montreux will more than fill that bill vs the quicker route via Bern where the scenery is not really the Alpine dreamscapes in your mind.

And whilst the Golden Pass scenery is not as awesome as say the Bernina Express or trains in the Jungfrau Region it is very nice IMO - bucolic Alpine valleys with high peaks to the south - and to me the best part is the dramatic descent to Lake Geneva when approaching Montreux - the train serpentines down thru vineyards for the final portion, with the lake glimmering far below.
Palenque is offline  
Old May 4th, 2010, 09:36 AM
  #6  
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,206
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I wish the OP came back and actually react to the people answering. It's not like somebody is paid to do it. This is what sometimes really puts me off from posting.
altamiro is offline  
Old May 4th, 2010, 09:52 AM
  #7  
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,149
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I wish the OP came back and actually react to the people answering. It's not like somebody is paid to do it. This is what sometimes really puts me off from posting....

Don't worry some others will travel with your posting, I did!
Thanks!
My kids and I are traveling from Italy to Zurich, but we'll be staying in Montreux and I think Lucern before taking the train to Zurich. I'm looking forward to that train arriving to Montreux and seeing Lake Geneva from the distance
pookymimi is offline  
Old May 4th, 2010, 10:26 AM
  #8  
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I appreciate your reply - great information for others to refer to.
lastlook is offline  
Old May 4th, 2010, 10:44 AM
  #9  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,556
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Whether or not she comes back to comment on your excellent advice and information Altamiro, rest assured that the rest of us very much appreciate your input - and we didn't even ask.
I'm bookmarking this for my return to Switzerland in the hopefully not too distant future. I've already visited and toured at least 4 times, but that was when I was a kid, teen and young adult. Now with a bit more disposable income, I hope to do a more leisurely and detailed trip and your advice and info will be put to good use.

Danke/Merci/Grazie !

M.
Mathieu is offline  
Old May 4th, 2010, 05:30 PM
  #10  
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Depending on your timing, I would avoid Bern on weekends. Neat city but awfully crowded. I would stay outside of Interlocken. The Lauterbrunnen Valley is one of the most beautiful places on earth. You can stay in the valley or up on either side of the Valley. The Jungfraujock is nice, but do not overlook the Schilthorn. The Piz Gloria is a revolving restaurant with spactacular 360 degree views, and food and drink is reasonably priced. Giesbach Falls on the Brienzersee is another must. Walk up the trail from the boat landing to the upper falls for an unbelieveable experience. Go behind the Falls and have a drink of food at the Grand Giesback Hotel. For the adventurous, papagliding off the mountains to the valley floor (2 or 3 thousand feet) with an unbelievable view above Staubbach Falls is a thrill. There are untold numbers of Alpine hikes in the area. Your problem is deciding what NOT to see and do on this trip as opposed to finding things you want to see and do. SUFFER!
Ceinwen is offline  
Old May 4th, 2010, 06:35 PM
  #11  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I'm back. Didn't mean to make you feel like you were wasting your time, life got a bit busy over the weekend.

> The msot direct line from Innsbruck to the Swiss border at Buchs is also the most scenic. Going to Bern is a detour: just get off at Pfäffikon, take the Voralpen-Express to Luzern and tehn the Brünig pass line to Interlaken. It will cost you an hour more than the route via Bern but IMO worth it if you have the time.

Thanks, this is exactly what I wanted to know! I have yet to find a schedule on OBB or SBB that changes at Pfäffikon though. Will a train that goes through Pfäffikon go on the same route?

>You don't need a guided hike, just a map. Being alone on the trail, at least for the few minutes ebtween encounters with other hikers, is hardly possible in a group and for me it is what I go hiking for.

Shows you how little I know about hiking in Europe! I wouldn't be comfortable hiking alone in Australia unless I knew the area really well. I might check at the tourist office that any hike I plan to take is safe to do alone, but I'll stop limiting my options to only guided hikes.

>Something unique and not in the guidebooks? Go hiking on one of the subalpine meadows in the Toggenburg. Stop by any farm and ask them about cheese, cows and all the stuff. In June they don't yet have a lot to do and will be ready to show you a cheese cellar and explain things - as long as you don't barge in during the milking time.

This sounds wonderful! I will definitely try to fit it in.

As to why Bern, it was recommended, and I figured it was a good day trip from the interlaken area if the weather was terrible. Also, I like cities - I'm generally more of a city/town traveller than a great outdoors one (hence the length of this question!), and I won't see another German speaking Swiss city. Any alternative suggestions gladly received though.

> If you are used to fresh snow you won't enjoy the experience.

I have skied exactly once on created snow, so I really won't have anything to compare it to. I just wanted to give it a go, and thought this might be an opportunity. If not Hintertux, then where should I base myself around Innsbruck? In the city itself?

> Well yes take the train up to the Jungfraujoch station, the highest in Europe and then hike to the nearby glacier or just stare at it from the observation deck.

Awesome, thanks! Can I also get close to the Oberergletscher? The guide books indicate that I can.

> Do you mean a cave with ice in it (lots of these all over the Alps...), or a cave in a glacier?

In a glacier if possible, but I have also been looking into the former.

Did I get everything? I hope so. Thanks again.
kjs4 is offline  
Old May 5th, 2010, 12:16 PM
  #12  
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 9,023
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
For a ice cave inside a glacier i do not think you will find that - but for a sprawling series of ice caves then the ones on top of the Jungfrau and Jungfraujoch cannot be beat - the eerie luminescent blue light is eerie.

If someone knows of a cave in a glacier let me know

or is the Jungfrau cave actually in a glacier? I thought the Aletsch Glacier, the longest in the Alps, starts just below the Jungfraujoch Station but may be wrong.
Palenque is offline  
Old May 5th, 2010, 11:32 PM
  #13  
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,206
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
> I have yet to find a schedule on OBB or SBB that changes at Pfäffikon though. Will a train that goes through Pfäffikon go on the same route?

You just have to enter Pfäffikon SZ (NOT Pfäffikon ZH) into the "via" box. Many direct trains run through Pfäffikon without stopping, so it might mean that you have to change in Sargans too. Not a big deal though.

>You don't need a guided hike, just a map. Being alone on the trail, at least for the few minutes ebtween encounters with other hikers, is hardly possible in a group and for me it is what I go hiking for.

>Shows you how little I know about hiking in Europe! I wouldn't be comfortable hiking alone in Australia unless I knew the area really well. I might check at the tourist office that any hike I plan to take is safe to do alone, but I'll stop limiting my options to only guided hikes.

What should be unsafe on a specific hike? The only dangers I can imagine on a hike are wildlife (ours doesn't try to kill us at any opportunity - you may meet an angry cow but that's probably it) and weather (this is what you have to watch for - don't want to be caught in exposed position in a thunderstorm). For the case of an injury in an accident, have the emergency phone number ready (1414 for mountain rescue).

>As to why Bern, it was recommended, and I figured it was a good day trip from the interlaken area if the weather was terrible. Also, I like cities - I'm generally more of a city/town traveller than a great outdoors one (hence the length of this question!), and I won't see another German speaking Swiss city. Any alternative suggestions gladly received though.

Bern is a very good city to visit, especially in case of bad weather - the city center is a Unesco world heritage, and there are a couple of good museums. Alternative would be Fribourg, about 20 min by train - a nice small university town with a spectacular location.

>I have skied exactly once on created snow, so I really won't have anything to compare it to. I just wanted to give it a go, and thought this might be an opportunity. If not Hintertux, then where should I base myself around Innsbruck? In the city itself?

Innsbruck itself is a good base for hiking but not so much for summer skiing. Look for the villages in Stubai valley - I think there is some limited skiing on Stubai glacier. Overall, I would rather recommend to skip summer skiing but if you insist there are some small (and shrinking) areas in Austria and Switzerland.

>Awesome, thanks! Can I also get close to the Oberergletscher? The guide books indicate that I can.

Yes, but it is also shrinking and you have to hike for a piece to get there.

There are glacier "caves" on the Jungfraujoch or in Zermatt on Klein Matterhorn. These all are, while spectacular, very touristy. For an experience away from int'l tourist crowds go to Bettmeralp and take a hike to the Aletsch glacier. It is fine even in June, escept the last piece that goes through the old water tunnel - you need a lamp as the normal lighting is a bit irregular.
My pictures from the area last year (late June)

http://public.fotki.com/chemallex/bettmeralp2009/
altamiro is offline  
Old May 6th, 2010, 05:48 AM
  #14  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,556
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Fantastic pictures Altamiro. Thanks for sharing.

M.
Mathieu is offline  
Old May 6th, 2010, 07:13 AM
  #15  
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 9,023
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Bettmeralp to me offers the most awesome glacier experience - though it's the same Aletsch Glacier that you see from the Jungfraujoch going down towards Bettmeralp at Bettmeralp you see the glacier stacked on itself tumbling down from the summit

and you can, like altamiro says walk right to the glacier and even if you do not to see it from the observations ledge is totally awesome.

I did Bettmeralp as a day trip from Interlaken - took a bus to Oberwald - a thrilling scenic Alpine bus ride and then the train to Bettmeralp - including a long cableway and cable car up to the glacier area. And returned to Interlaken via Brig and Spiez by train

A long day trip but with constantly exhilarating Alpine scenery.
Palenque is offline  
Old May 7th, 2010, 08:44 AM
  #16  
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 9,023
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Just looked at the pictures of the Aletsch Glacier Altamiro posted - you can see the trail that goes right down to the glacier! Yes fantastic pictures - thanks.
Palenque is offline  
Old May 7th, 2010, 11:36 AM
  #17  
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 9,023
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Anything else that's unique. I love castles, cheese and chocolate>

Well for castles, cheese and chocolate you may want to consider hopping the Chocolate Train that goes from Lausanne to Gruyeres - where you visit a cheese factory and well as a primo walled town with medieval ramparts all intact and also a nice castle.

La Gruyère Tourism - Switzerland - Chocolate Train
Discover the region of cheese and chocolate thanks to this package deal that combines a first-class trip with a visit to a chocolate factory.
http://www.la-gruyere.ch/.../navpage...FR-134525.html

then the train rolls over to the Broc Factory station to do a Willy Wonka type tour thru the Nestle Chocolate factory.

The train is composed of Belle-Epoque Pullman cars and wine and cheese are served en route.
Palenque is offline  
Old May 10th, 2010, 06:52 AM
  #18  
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 9,023
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
You just have to enter Pfäffikon SZ (NOT Pfäffikon ZH) into the "via" box. Many direct trains run through Pfäffikon without stopping, so it might mean that you have to change in Sargans too. Not a big deal though>

But a much more scenic route if you do take the Voralpen Express - one of Switzerland's ballyhooed scenic train routes - and you will get to Lucerne in about the same time and not have to change trains in the huge Zurich main station that has about 60 different tracks.
Palenque is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Original Poster
Forum
Replies
Last Post
TSMoeller
Europe
17
Nov 24th, 2017 06:47 AM
mridula_gokulnath
Europe
8
Apr 25th, 2015 12:14 PM
nandita
Europe
16
Jan 6th, 2014 11:39 AM
wikie
Europe
4
Jun 24th, 2011 08:00 AM
Ranjan Deb
Europe
17
May 10th, 2002 05:04 AM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On



Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -