Advice Needed: Pyrenees trip from Barcelona
#1
Original Poster
Joined: Oct 2003
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Advice Needed: Pyrenees trip from Barcelona
We are plannng to fly into Barcelona in early-mid-September, stay about 4 days and then rent a car and go into the Pyrenees. Wondered if anyone has advice on areas and specific towns to go to/stay. We expect to have about 8 days travel time in Pyrenees and are not sure how much area we could cover in that time. We would like to see towns, but also rural areas (stay at Paradores? or B&B's?) How are the roads going into France across the Pyrenees? Do-able? Carcassone?
Also - Anyone know what car rental prices are like?
Also - Anyone know what car rental prices are like?
#2

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,549
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We did a fairly similar trip a year ago except that we put our Barcelona stay at the end of the trip. Your rental price will be different if you plan to return the car to Barcelona or leave it in France (which will cost a lot more). We nearly always find the best prices with Nova.
If you are from the US then these comparisons may make sense to you. It seemed to us as though the Spanish side of the Pyrenees was more similar to the mountains of the desert southwest US while the French side was more comparable to say the more lush areas of the Colorado Rockies.
Driving was fine and interesting. My one piece of advice is be sure to bring regular hiking boots if you plan to do any walking whatsoever. I thought I would just wear my boots when we were actually hiking, but found my self wearing them almost every day. Even when we were just driving through the mountains and making brief stops I was glad to have the boots because of the uneven terrain.
As far as where to stay I can't advise you because we rented an apartment in Spain for 3 nights and used that as a base and in France we rented a gite for 4 nights. I know a lot of people will disagree with me, but we were not at all impressed with Carcassone. The first time we went was in the winter and we thought maybe that was why we didn't care for it. So, last year we returned during our May trip. Still didnt do a thing for us. Also, there was nice scenery driving through Andorra, but I certainly wouldn't plan to stop in the city there.
If you are from the US then these comparisons may make sense to you. It seemed to us as though the Spanish side of the Pyrenees was more similar to the mountains of the desert southwest US while the French side was more comparable to say the more lush areas of the Colorado Rockies.
Driving was fine and interesting. My one piece of advice is be sure to bring regular hiking boots if you plan to do any walking whatsoever. I thought I would just wear my boots when we were actually hiking, but found my self wearing them almost every day. Even when we were just driving through the mountains and making brief stops I was glad to have the boots because of the uneven terrain.
As far as where to stay I can't advise you because we rented an apartment in Spain for 3 nights and used that as a base and in France we rented a gite for 4 nights. I know a lot of people will disagree with me, but we were not at all impressed with Carcassone. The first time we went was in the winter and we thought maybe that was why we didn't care for it. So, last year we returned during our May trip. Still didnt do a thing for us. Also, there was nice scenery driving through Andorra, but I certainly wouldn't plan to stop in the city there.
#4
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 278
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Diane,
We are doing a very similar trip this May. 3 nights in Barcelona, then renting a car at the Sants train station and heading to Girona for some bike riding. From there we head to Cadaques for a day at the beach, then over to Collioure on the French coast.
From there we have about 5 days to explore Toulouse---maybe Albi and then back through the French Pyrenees (good hiking).
Last night is at Sitges south of Barcelona. (Our own research has us spending not more than half a day in Carcassone.) Search "Pyrenees" for some good advice.
Cheers!
pete
We are doing a very similar trip this May. 3 nights in Barcelona, then renting a car at the Sants train station and heading to Girona for some bike riding. From there we head to Cadaques for a day at the beach, then over to Collioure on the French coast.
From there we have about 5 days to explore Toulouse---maybe Albi and then back through the French Pyrenees (good hiking).
Last night is at Sitges south of Barcelona. (Our own research has us spending not more than half a day in Carcassone.) Search "Pyrenees" for some good advice.
Cheers!
pete
#6
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
I've done the trip from Barcelona into the Pyrenees. I stayed in Canillo, Andorra. Places enroute to see are: the monastery at Montserrat, one of Europes largest spas in Caldea (incredible!!), the duty free shop at the border is incredible. Actually Andorra is a Duty Free principality so prices throughout the country are unbelievable. I have not been to Carcassone but have it on my itinerary for a ski trip I will be doing in January from Canillo. My travel distributor said it's a "Don't miss!" and he's never been wrong yet.
Have a great trip. Both Spain and Andorra are wonderful countries!
Have a great trip. Both Spain and Andorra are wonderful countries!
#7
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 278
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Hi Diane,
Just back from our trip. Barcelona is a fun city. We had 3 days there which was perfect for us. Take the city bus tour, which allows you to get on and off all day long. There are 2 separate companies, go with the one that offers the FREE coupon booklet for other attractions.
Carcassone is fine if you get there in the early evening. Walk around the perimeter, have dinner in the main square. Walk it again in the morning light and then escape before the crowds arrive. It was a great stopover on our way to Toulouse.
Belgur is a fun little Spanish town. There are some nice beaches within 10 or 15 minutes. Use it to explore the surrounding old towns. Pals is a really wonderful old town. It doesn't look like much until you are walking in the old section. Go early to beat the crowds.
The Pyrenees are ancient and lovely. We enjoyed both sides. Use the D roads in France to explore some excellent country roads. Drive slowly. We skipped Andorra.
Enjoy!
Pete
Just back from our trip. Barcelona is a fun city. We had 3 days there which was perfect for us. Take the city bus tour, which allows you to get on and off all day long. There are 2 separate companies, go with the one that offers the FREE coupon booklet for other attractions.
Carcassone is fine if you get there in the early evening. Walk around the perimeter, have dinner in the main square. Walk it again in the morning light and then escape before the crowds arrive. It was a great stopover on our way to Toulouse.
Belgur is a fun little Spanish town. There are some nice beaches within 10 or 15 minutes. Use it to explore the surrounding old towns. Pals is a really wonderful old town. It doesn't look like much until you are walking in the old section. Go early to beat the crowds.
The Pyrenees are ancient and lovely. We enjoyed both sides. Use the D roads in France to explore some excellent country roads. Drive slowly. We skipped Andorra.
Enjoy!
Pete
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#10
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 278
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Hi Claire!
I doubt that I will ever have time for a real trip report---but will try.
Needless to say we really enjoyed "your" lovely city of Barcelona. You noticed that we inspired their football team to victory against England. We were in the middle of the crowd when the parade started down by the port.
That was a wild experience....
Gaudi did not disappoint...the man was brilliant! Dali: Hmmmm, more a showman I think with a taste for the bizarre, if not perverse. Good for a rainy day.
When are you going back?
The phone beckons...
pete
I doubt that I will ever have time for a real trip report---but will try.
Needless to say we really enjoyed "your" lovely city of Barcelona. You noticed that we inspired their football team to victory against England. We were in the middle of the crowd when the parade started down by the port.
That was a wild experience....
Gaudi did not disappoint...the man was brilliant! Dali: Hmmmm, more a showman I think with a taste for the bizarre, if not perverse. Good for a rainy day.
When are you going back?
The phone beckons...
pete
#11
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,850
Likes: 0
Pete- I arrive on June 21. I am really excited and I did see that you guys helped Barca win. Thanks for that! I was here buys helping the Mavs win game 7 last night! Woo hoo!
Real trip reports are a pain, but a quick highlight of 5 favorites would be really neat to hear about. I am so glad you had a good time!
Real trip reports are a pain, but a quick highlight of 5 favorites would be really neat to hear about. I am so glad you had a good time!
#12
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1
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I can HIGHLY recommend 2 towns I love--both on the French side.
The first is called Llo (pop. 300) and it is in the the wide Pyreneen valley called La Cerdagne. It is about 20 minutes north of the Spanish border. It has an old Romanesque church and thermal baths. It is a good base from which to hike and explore sites on both the French and Spanish sides. There are many lakes and mountain streams within a 15 min drive. There is a FANTASTIC b&b there called Cal Miquel www.calmiquel.com. It is a restored farmhouse that sleeps about 20. Rooms are bright and large with modern bathrooms and wood beam ceilings. The owner Jean-Pierre is a fantastic chef. The half-board at 42 euros is a steal but you can opt for the room/breakfast for 25 euro. He makes his own marmalades which are served at breakfast (and for sale). He can give you advice on hiking trails, etc. FYI I would NOT recommend Cal Pai which is recommended by Fodors and in the next town over. Eyne has a natural park with hiking trails, but Cal Pai is run-down and overgrown.
My other favorite place is Coullioiure on the Mediterranean coast. Made famous by Matisse and co., it is a quaint town with fabulous restaurants and a fun market on Sunday. We stayed at the Templiers, but would not recommend it.
You could easily do a loop and hit both of these...drive through the Tunnels de Cadi, entering the mountains through Puigcerda in Spain. Then on the return to BCN head out through Perpignan then to the Mediterranean coast and down. If you take the coastal route at any point, you may want to check out Cadaques, the home of Salvador Dali...but be sure to eat before you go there. Cadaques has terrible restaurants.
You should have no problem with the roads. Carcassonne is really neat but touristy. You will not need more than an afternoon there or at most a night.
I live in Barcelona so let me know if you need tips for there. A friend rents rooms in her apt for around 65 euro/night. Enjoy!
The first is called Llo (pop. 300) and it is in the the wide Pyreneen valley called La Cerdagne. It is about 20 minutes north of the Spanish border. It has an old Romanesque church and thermal baths. It is a good base from which to hike and explore sites on both the French and Spanish sides. There are many lakes and mountain streams within a 15 min drive. There is a FANTASTIC b&b there called Cal Miquel www.calmiquel.com. It is a restored farmhouse that sleeps about 20. Rooms are bright and large with modern bathrooms and wood beam ceilings. The owner Jean-Pierre is a fantastic chef. The half-board at 42 euros is a steal but you can opt for the room/breakfast for 25 euro. He makes his own marmalades which are served at breakfast (and for sale). He can give you advice on hiking trails, etc. FYI I would NOT recommend Cal Pai which is recommended by Fodors and in the next town over. Eyne has a natural park with hiking trails, but Cal Pai is run-down and overgrown.
My other favorite place is Coullioiure on the Mediterranean coast. Made famous by Matisse and co., it is a quaint town with fabulous restaurants and a fun market on Sunday. We stayed at the Templiers, but would not recommend it.
You could easily do a loop and hit both of these...drive through the Tunnels de Cadi, entering the mountains through Puigcerda in Spain. Then on the return to BCN head out through Perpignan then to the Mediterranean coast and down. If you take the coastal route at any point, you may want to check out Cadaques, the home of Salvador Dali...but be sure to eat before you go there. Cadaques has terrible restaurants.
You should have no problem with the roads. Carcassonne is really neat but touristy. You will not need more than an afternoon there or at most a night.
I live in Barcelona so let me know if you need tips for there. A friend rents rooms in her apt for around 65 euro/night. Enjoy!
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