Adding a taste of the Alps to a Provence and Cote d'Azur holiday
Apr 15th, 2009, 07:09 PM
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Adding a taste of the Alps to a Provence and Cote d'Azur holiday
We are spending two weeks in southern France (4 days in Nice then a full week exploring Provence from our base in Saint-Rémy). We have 3 days and 2 nights between the end of our one-week rental and the last night of our trip, in Nice (from where we fly the following morning). We were thinking of going north through the mountain passes, maybe as far as Briancon and Saint-Veran then back south, but there might be better mountain destinations that are not as far (Digne? Gap? Barcelonnette? Saint-Martin-Vesubie?) This will be in early June, and we like scenic drives and beautiful villages.
Those who know the northern part of Provence and the Riviera -- how would you use this time? Thanks for your insight!
Those who know the northern part of Provence and the Riviera -- how would you use this time? Thanks for your insight!
Apr 16th, 2009, 01:49 AM
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We are spending a night in Trigance on the way from Nice to Saint-Rémy, so we will see the Verdon (we are drawn to this, since natural sites are very high on our list).
I'm taking this opportunity to thank you Cigale, your many contributions to this forum and to the Slowtrav one have been invaluable in the planning of our trip!
I'm taking this opportunity to thank you Cigale, your many contributions to this forum and to the Slowtrav one have been invaluable in the planning of our trip!
Apr 16th, 2009, 10:00 AM
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Try going east and then north to the mountain town of Sospel, then across an interesting road to Lucéram. See part of my December trip report here:
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-in-grasse.cfm
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-in-grasse.cfm
Apr 16th, 2009, 11:07 AM
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Here is something I posted previously:
Here are some ideas:
Except for Briancon & St Veran, there are not many "cute little villages" in the Alps like you find in Alsace, Dordogne, & Provence. The real "star" is the Alps themselves - so make the Alps the main objective of your sightseeing.
After you've arrive in Briancon, checked in, and do a tour of the upper village - if you have any stamina left I suggest that you visit one of the most famous & beautiful "cols" in the Alps - the Col du Galibier. From Briancon, head northwest on the N91 over the Col du Lautaret. The road over the Galibier is just past Lautaret. Just drive on this D902 over the Col du Galibier a little bit - it's quite breathtaking. This should not take long.
On Thursday, head southeast on the beautiful D902 over the Col d'Izoard, then on to St Veran. My Michelin Green Guide says that this is the hightest village in Europe. However, about 3 other Green Guides say that other villages are the highest in Europe too???? We enjoyed touring this interesting village with the south facing storage lofts. The GG says it's one of the prettiest villages in France.
Chateau Queyras is on the way to St Veran, but I would skip that.
Retrace your route a bit, and head southwest on the Combe du Queyras (D902) to Guillestre. We did not visit this village - so there must have been a reason I chose to bypass it. If you are a Vauban fan (my wife is), stop at Mont Dauphin - but I suspect you might need to make some time & skip it.
From Guillestre, make a scenic clockwise loop on the D902 over the Col de Vers & on to Barcelonnette - which might be a good place to stop for the evening. We did this drve in late June of one head & did not need any reservations for hotesl - you might just see where you are at 3PM or so, and call to reserve then.
After Barcelonnette, head south to Colmars, which is a very interesting village to explore. Then head east on the D78 through Guillaumes, and on toBei. At Beuil, head south through the very scenic Gorges du Cians, encing at Puget Theniers. Here is somethig I wrote about his region.
In early July of ’07, we stayed in a Gite just outside of the town of Entrevaux*, and explored the beautiful canyons, mountains, and small villages in the area quite thoroughly. Entrevaux is only 1 hr from Nice along the Var River. The town of Entrevaux is quite remarkable. Look up Entravaux in the Michelin Green Guide for the French Alps and you’ll see a picture of the town. However, it’s more dramatic than the picture shows. There is a huge rock spur that sticks up along the northern bank of the Var River. A Cathedral sits on top of the spur, with a fortified wall (built by Vauban) running down to the medieval village below – it’s quite a sight to see. For the best view of Entrevaux and the surrounding area, drive into the large parking lot (looks like a strip mall) that’s opposite the entrance to Entrevaux – on the opposite side of the N202. The entrance to the lot is at the extreme west end of the lot. Immediately to your right as you enter, there is a restaurant/café and then a very steep road heading uphill just after the restaurant. Follow this road up & up – admiring the views of Entrevaux as you climb. There are several areas to pull out & take a picture – which you’ll want to do. Keep going till you can’t see Entrevaux anymore and then return to the “strip mall”, park the car, & walk over the drawbridge into the medieval village. There are a few cafes for lunch there, but there are better ones just west in the town of Puget Theniers (village not worth exploring). You can take a scenic train from Nice to Entrevaux, but you can’t explore the canyons without a car.
Next, drive through the very scenic gorges in the area. We made several drives along these gorges – taking advantage of the sunlight at various times of the day. These gorges are quite spectacular and different from the gorges closer to Nice. The sheer walls are red slate – a very dark red-rust colored rock. From Entrevaux, take the N202 west then head north on the D902 (which changes to the D2202 when it crosses into the Alps Maritimes dept) through the Gorges de Daluis**. The views are better going north than south. As you exit the gorge at Guillaumes, head east on the D28 to Valberg, then on to Beuil. Drive south through the Gorges du Cains*** on the D28. Visit the cute village of Riguald near the south end of the Gorge. When the D28 hits the N202, take the N202 east to Touet sur Var*. You will see Touet perched up above the road, but you’ll have to drive past the town to find the access to the town. Drive up to Touet & explore this picturesque village. Continue east on the N202 & then take the D26 to Villars sur Var. This town has some very interesting passageways. After visiting Villars, continue north on the D26 and visit the cute town of Bairols, and then the town of Clans. These are all miniscule villages, and you’ll be surprised that they are even inhabited today – we enjoyed visiting them. Continue north on the D2205, then east to St Martin-Vesubie* (see “Deeper” above), and then return to Nice.
Other villages that we’ve visited & enjoyed in the area are Annot*, Roubion*, Meailles* (more picturesque from the outside than inside), and especially Colmars* (old town** plus fort),. Castellane* is a popular town and a center for exploring the Gorge du Verdon. It has good “bones” but is very touristy. The main street through town has some of the tackiest stuff that I’ve seen this side of Mt St Michel. Villages that were mentioned in various guide books that we visited - but didn’t find that interesting are St Sauveur sur Tinee, & Roure.
After visiting Annot, Meailles, and Colmars, we took a very scenic drive east from Colmars over the Col des Champs* on the D2 which changes to the D78 when it crosses from the dept of Alpes de Haute Provence into the Alpes Maritime dept.
Stu Dudley
Here are some ideas:
Except for Briancon & St Veran, there are not many "cute little villages" in the Alps like you find in Alsace, Dordogne, & Provence. The real "star" is the Alps themselves - so make the Alps the main objective of your sightseeing.
After you've arrive in Briancon, checked in, and do a tour of the upper village - if you have any stamina left I suggest that you visit one of the most famous & beautiful "cols" in the Alps - the Col du Galibier. From Briancon, head northwest on the N91 over the Col du Lautaret. The road over the Galibier is just past Lautaret. Just drive on this D902 over the Col du Galibier a little bit - it's quite breathtaking. This should not take long.
On Thursday, head southeast on the beautiful D902 over the Col d'Izoard, then on to St Veran. My Michelin Green Guide says that this is the hightest village in Europe. However, about 3 other Green Guides say that other villages are the highest in Europe too???? We enjoyed touring this interesting village with the south facing storage lofts. The GG says it's one of the prettiest villages in France.
Chateau Queyras is on the way to St Veran, but I would skip that.
Retrace your route a bit, and head southwest on the Combe du Queyras (D902) to Guillestre. We did not visit this village - so there must have been a reason I chose to bypass it. If you are a Vauban fan (my wife is), stop at Mont Dauphin - but I suspect you might need to make some time & skip it.
From Guillestre, make a scenic clockwise loop on the D902 over the Col de Vers & on to Barcelonnette - which might be a good place to stop for the evening. We did this drve in late June of one head & did not need any reservations for hotesl - you might just see where you are at 3PM or so, and call to reserve then.
After Barcelonnette, head south to Colmars, which is a very interesting village to explore. Then head east on the D78 through Guillaumes, and on toBei. At Beuil, head south through the very scenic Gorges du Cians, encing at Puget Theniers. Here is somethig I wrote about his region.
In early July of ’07, we stayed in a Gite just outside of the town of Entrevaux*, and explored the beautiful canyons, mountains, and small villages in the area quite thoroughly. Entrevaux is only 1 hr from Nice along the Var River. The town of Entrevaux is quite remarkable. Look up Entravaux in the Michelin Green Guide for the French Alps and you’ll see a picture of the town. However, it’s more dramatic than the picture shows. There is a huge rock spur that sticks up along the northern bank of the Var River. A Cathedral sits on top of the spur, with a fortified wall (built by Vauban) running down to the medieval village below – it’s quite a sight to see. For the best view of Entrevaux and the surrounding area, drive into the large parking lot (looks like a strip mall) that’s opposite the entrance to Entrevaux – on the opposite side of the N202. The entrance to the lot is at the extreme west end of the lot. Immediately to your right as you enter, there is a restaurant/café and then a very steep road heading uphill just after the restaurant. Follow this road up & up – admiring the views of Entrevaux as you climb. There are several areas to pull out & take a picture – which you’ll want to do. Keep going till you can’t see Entrevaux anymore and then return to the “strip mall”, park the car, & walk over the drawbridge into the medieval village. There are a few cafes for lunch there, but there are better ones just west in the town of Puget Theniers (village not worth exploring). You can take a scenic train from Nice to Entrevaux, but you can’t explore the canyons without a car.
Next, drive through the very scenic gorges in the area. We made several drives along these gorges – taking advantage of the sunlight at various times of the day. These gorges are quite spectacular and different from the gorges closer to Nice. The sheer walls are red slate – a very dark red-rust colored rock. From Entrevaux, take the N202 west then head north on the D902 (which changes to the D2202 when it crosses into the Alps Maritimes dept) through the Gorges de Daluis**. The views are better going north than south. As you exit the gorge at Guillaumes, head east on the D28 to Valberg, then on to Beuil. Drive south through the Gorges du Cains*** on the D28. Visit the cute village of Riguald near the south end of the Gorge. When the D28 hits the N202, take the N202 east to Touet sur Var*. You will see Touet perched up above the road, but you’ll have to drive past the town to find the access to the town. Drive up to Touet & explore this picturesque village. Continue east on the N202 & then take the D26 to Villars sur Var. This town has some very interesting passageways. After visiting Villars, continue north on the D26 and visit the cute town of Bairols, and then the town of Clans. These are all miniscule villages, and you’ll be surprised that they are even inhabited today – we enjoyed visiting them. Continue north on the D2205, then east to St Martin-Vesubie* (see “Deeper” above), and then return to Nice.
Other villages that we’ve visited & enjoyed in the area are Annot*, Roubion*, Meailles* (more picturesque from the outside than inside), and especially Colmars* (old town** plus fort),. Castellane* is a popular town and a center for exploring the Gorge du Verdon. It has good “bones” but is very touristy. The main street through town has some of the tackiest stuff that I’ve seen this side of Mt St Michel. Villages that were mentioned in various guide books that we visited - but didn’t find that interesting are St Sauveur sur Tinee, & Roure.
After visiting Annot, Meailles, and Colmars, we took a very scenic drive east from Colmars over the Col des Champs* on the D2 which changes to the D78 when it crosses from the dept of Alpes de Haute Provence into the Alpes Maritime dept.
Stu Dudley
Apr 18th, 2009, 08:00 AM
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Thank you for all the great suggestions of villages and scenic drives. Maybe we'll try not to get too ambitious, and keep our exploration south of Barcelonnette, although we might miss a bit of the "alpine" feel that we were looking for (something like this... http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...illac-wiki.jpg - this is Ceillac, near Mont-Dauphin, which looks like the opposite of the perched villages that we will have seen in the previous week). We can keep this for a next trip 
