This part of the trip was what we all considered to be a pligrimage, Gallipoli is a place that is held sacred to Australian and New Zealanders so as this is a wide spread forum I will keep it short. We travelled from the Hotel in Gelibelou and picked up our guide Ali in Eceabat. Ali was a Turkish Gentleman pure and simple, he had a passion for the battlefield area and its history and its relevence to modern Turkey. He was informative and friendly and he was obviously well respected by everyone we ran into on the peninsular. the first stop was the Military museum, some of the exhibits are quite graphic and reading some of the encapsulated histories and letters from soldiers was quite emotional. The photographic evidence of the horror of the place was offset by the casual and light hearted opinions and views expressed by the participants. On to Anzac Cove, a pretty spot, a shame it was the theatre for a war. The monument that Attaturk erected to the soldiers who died there caused both lisa and I to shed several tears, the feelings expressed are so poignant. We wandered on the beach and thru the couple of small war cemetaries there, we found Simpsons grave (Aussies will know who I mean). We moved on to The Lone Pine memorial, Ali had the key to the chapel and we paid our respects to the 6000 who died there in a 3 day period ! We found the graves of three Old Boys from Andrews school who were killed there. Ali told us several anecdotes from the battle and then let us know that his Grandfather died there. So sad. We got to see some of the preserved trenches, amazingly only 20 metres apart. We stopped at the cemetary at "The Nek" made famous in the movie Gallipoli, as we wandered amongst the gardens Andrew found a piece of shrapnel about the size of his thumb, he now has special souvenier. Ali says that there is so much metal turned up in the area and after heavy rain they occasionally find bones still !! We also visited the Turkish memorial which told a similar tale of loss ! the Attaturk memorial at the highest point gave some great views all around and was a great way to finish a long day. Ali's final gift to me was an old 303 bullet that he had found made into a medallion with a turkish and aussie flag. Final analysis, every Australian or Kiwi who can should go there, and if you don't feel something you should change countries !

Marko - As an American who does not do cemetaries and/or memorials very well - visiting the Vietnam Memorial and viewing it from the hill only, I must say Gallipoli and especially the Anzac Cemetary, left an impact on me. Just reading your comments brought tears again - seven years later. Nor can I view my photos of the memorial and the location on the water, without tearing up.

Ataturk's 1934 words: "Those heroes that shed their blood and lost their lives - you are now lying in the soil of a friendly country. Therefore, rest in Peace. There is no difference between the Johnnies and the Mehmets to us where they lie side-by-side, here in this country of ours. You the mothers who sent their sons from far away countries, wipe away your tears, your sons are now lying in our bosom and are in Peace. After having lost their lives, on this land they have become our sons as well."

If possible this should be a stop for everyone who visits Turkey.

Sandi, thank you very much for providing the quote. It gave me the same feeling again that I felt standing at ANZAC cove. Thanks.

Among the many military memorials lining Anzac Parade in Canberra, Australia's capital (close by where I live), there's only one that doesn't commemorate a non-Australian/New Zealand unit or event - it honours Kemal Ataturk.

Marko, really enjoyed your great trip report. It brought back many good memories. I bet you have another trip already planned. Where will it be?

China and Tibet, another language to learn !!

Hi Marko,
Funny, I went to the Asia site last night to start checking info for our China trip this fall, and there you were. We're going on another tour, so I don't need as much information as I did for our April trip to Croatia, but I'll be checking for weather, restaurants.

I did learn a dozen words for Turkey and Croatia and found we were always welcomed when we tried the language. Got lots of laughs anyway.

My daughter tried to learn Chinese and she has a way with languages and said it was the most difficult, so I might just try to learn a few words to get by with.

Seems we like the same places.

Well, allahaismarladik for now.

Tessukur ederim Granny !! I have this hopeless obsession with standing on really old things , the Great Wall is my next target !

Marko

Your account brought back strong memories of my visit with my wife to Gallipoli. We to were lucky enough to have Ali as our guide (at least I assume it is the same Ali, Elderly gentlemen about 5 foot three who had served in the Turkish navy prior to his retirement to Eceabat) It was very insightful to have someone so knowledgeable showing us round the battlefields.

I too was stunned at how close the trenches were to each other. When we went round the site my wife and I were the only kiwis on the tour the rest (about 40) being Aussies. So naturally enough we spent a lot of time at Lone Pine, a very powerful moving spot, however we were really moved by the effort Ali made in showing us personally the areas where New Zealanders had been heavily involved in the campain particularly Chunuk Bair where both the New Zealand memorial and Kemal Attaturk's memorial stand side by side.

Finally I agree with you. Gallipoli is definately one spot all Aussies and New Zealanders should visit if able. There they will find the true meaning of ANZAC.

Regards

Steve

PS I still think Turkey is a must see for anyone. The country is littered with astounding sights and history to burn.