A father and son trip to Bologna, April 2016
#1
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A father and son trip to Bologna, April 2016
Hello Fodorites,
My husband and our adult son will spend a special 'father - son" long weekend in Bologna in April.
As this is my birthday gift to both of them I am busy gathering worthwhile information on the city. Culture, history and of course gastronomy are the major topics. I would very much appreciate any information on these subjects. Grazie mille for your help!
My husband and our adult son will spend a special 'father - son" long weekend in Bologna in April.
As this is my birthday gift to both of them I am busy gathering worthwhile information on the city. Culture, history and of course gastronomy are the major topics. I would very much appreciate any information on these subjects. Grazie mille for your help!
#2

Joined: Aug 2008
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You should -- of course -- first consult the Destinations section of this site, available at the top of the page and http://www.fodors.com/world/europe/italy/emilia-romagna
If the men are gearheads, there are several luxury car-makers welcoming tourists within easy reach of Bologna. The city is an historic centre of university education and anti-Vatican strife. The tourism authority runs walking tours that touch on this background. Check http://www.bolognawelcome.com/en/
Wikipedia offers some historical perspective https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bologna
It's also a great city for cuisine, far beyond the cliché spaghetti which isn't prepared in the North American style anyway.
If the men are gearheads, there are several luxury car-makers welcoming tourists within easy reach of Bologna. The city is an historic centre of university education and anti-Vatican strife. The tourism authority runs walking tours that touch on this background. Check http://www.bolognawelcome.com/en/
Wikipedia offers some historical perspective https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bologna
It's also a great city for cuisine, far beyond the cliché spaghetti which isn't prepared in the North American style anyway.
#3

Joined: Sep 2003
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Restaurants I particlarly liked on my last visit in April 2014:
Trattoria dal Biassanot
http://www.dalbiassanot.it/
Simple, delicious cooking
Trattoria Battibecco, just off Piazza Maggiore:
http://www.battibecco.com/
Scaccomatto, well worth the 10-15 min. walk it takes to get there from Piazza Maggiore, owner is from Basilicata, serving Southern-Italian food. Not cheap:
http://www.ristorantescaccomatto.com/
Not too far from there is a favourite gelateria, Il Gelatauro, which always offers some delicious home-made sweets too, again from Southern Italy.
http://www.gelatauro.com/
Perhaps my favourite gelateria, Gianni, I love the branch at Via Montegrappa 11 (there's another one near the two towers but I prefer this more residential one):
https://www.tripadvisor.co.il/Restau...a_Romagna.html
If the need arises for a simple pizza, I'm addicted to Altero:
http://www.pizzaltero.it/dove-siamo.html
Trattoria dal Biassanot
http://www.dalbiassanot.it/
Simple, delicious cooking
Trattoria Battibecco, just off Piazza Maggiore:
http://www.battibecco.com/
Scaccomatto, well worth the 10-15 min. walk it takes to get there from Piazza Maggiore, owner is from Basilicata, serving Southern-Italian food. Not cheap:
http://www.ristorantescaccomatto.com/
Not too far from there is a favourite gelateria, Il Gelatauro, which always offers some delicious home-made sweets too, again from Southern Italy.
http://www.gelatauro.com/
Perhaps my favourite gelateria, Gianni, I love the branch at Via Montegrappa 11 (there's another one near the two towers but I prefer this more residential one):
https://www.tripadvisor.co.il/Restau...a_Romagna.html
If the need arises for a simple pizza, I'm addicted to Altero:
http://www.pizzaltero.it/dove-siamo.html
#4
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 6,531
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If one is going to walk all the way to the neighborhood where Scacco Matto is located, I highly recommend eating instead at the neighboring Da Maro, pretty much next door, and run by Sicilians. (Several restaurants in that area are run by southern Italians).
However, unless the travelers have an aversion to the local cuisine, I would highly recommend sampling the local (and famous) cuisine in all its variety in local osterie. My personal faves are Da Gianni, Serghei, All'Osteria Bottega, Giampi e Ciccio (as much for the friendly soccer-mad owners as the classic dishes). Most of all, I would highly recommend that your travelers visit Osteria del Sole, open since the 14th century. They can assemble a picnic from the market, for either lunch or an early dinner, and then take the food to Osteria del Sole to eat at communal tables. They are only required to buy a glass of wine. Your travelers might also enjoy Osteria de Poeti and Osteria al 15 for atmosphere as well as food.
For culture and history, the Bologna Welcome website is comprehensive, and I would personally highlight the following that might be of interest (you can find the opening hours on the Bologna Welcome site):
The anatomical theater in the Archigennasio
The terracotta statues in the church of Santa Maria delle Vita
The Jewish ghetto
The civic medieval museum
Piazza Santo Stefano
The music museum
There are often many live music events in Bologna.
However, unless the travelers have an aversion to the local cuisine, I would highly recommend sampling the local (and famous) cuisine in all its variety in local osterie. My personal faves are Da Gianni, Serghei, All'Osteria Bottega, Giampi e Ciccio (as much for the friendly soccer-mad owners as the classic dishes). Most of all, I would highly recommend that your travelers visit Osteria del Sole, open since the 14th century. They can assemble a picnic from the market, for either lunch or an early dinner, and then take the food to Osteria del Sole to eat at communal tables. They are only required to buy a glass of wine. Your travelers might also enjoy Osteria de Poeti and Osteria al 15 for atmosphere as well as food.
For culture and history, the Bologna Welcome website is comprehensive, and I would personally highlight the following that might be of interest (you can find the opening hours on the Bologna Welcome site):
The anatomical theater in the Archigennasio
The terracotta statues in the church of Santa Maria delle Vita
The Jewish ghetto
The civic medieval museum
Piazza Santo Stefano
The music museum
There are often many live music events in Bologna.
#5
Joined: Mar 2008
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I would also second the anatomical theatre. Bologna University is the oldest in Europe and the theatre is apparently the first of its type in the world.
Consider a day trip to Maranello (Ferrari) or Sant'Agata Bolognese.
As far as gastronomy is concerned ignore most of what Karen says. Italian cuisine is regional or even more specific. Emilia Romagna, of which Bologna is the administrative capital, has a renowned gastronomic tradition but there are significant differences between, for example, Parma, Bologna, Rimini etc.
Eat local and that means really local. To suggest eating food from southern Italy (including pizza) is daft. Spaghetti Bolognese does not exist in Italy. It is an invention in England and the US from Italians from the very south of Italy.
Consider a day trip to Maranello (Ferrari) or Sant'Agata Bolognese.
As far as gastronomy is concerned ignore most of what Karen says. Italian cuisine is regional or even more specific. Emilia Romagna, of which Bologna is the administrative capital, has a renowned gastronomic tradition but there are significant differences between, for example, Parma, Bologna, Rimini etc.
Eat local and that means really local. To suggest eating food from southern Italy (including pizza) is daft. Spaghetti Bolognese does not exist in Italy. It is an invention in England and the US from Italians from the very south of Italy.
#6
Joined: Feb 2014
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I wouldn't be so hard on Keren. The many southern Italian restaurants in Bologna do a rip-roaring business. Many of Bologna's university students come from southern Italy, plus all students tend to like to eat cheap, and like to eat pizza. (Even more popular than pizza for young cheapskates are the many Greek and north African restaurants selling kebabs.) Also, a lot of locals go out to restuarnts to eat fish, which the southern Italians specialize in (as they do gelato).
But local food in Bologna is quite interesting -- mortadella, lasagna, passatelli in brodo, stuffed pasta, braised turkey, delicious melons and cherries in summer, strawberries in spring...
But local food in Bologna is quite interesting -- mortadella, lasagna, passatelli in brodo, stuffed pasta, braised turkey, delicious melons and cherries in summer, strawberries in spring...
#7
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,485
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The OP specifically used the word gastronomy which I took to mean a certain appreciation of food and possibly local traditions - hence my comments.
You do not find cherries in Italy in the summer but in spring - generally in May. Some of the best cherries come from Vignola which is close to Modena. The mild winter in Italy has resulted in Italian strawberries being available earlier than usual.
For local Bolognese dishes you must not forget bollito misto. Easter Sunday, rather than have baby lamb or goat, we always have bollito misto with the brodo being used as the base for a very liquid risotto to which we add hard boiled eggs previously blessed at Sunday mass.
You do not find cherries in Italy in the summer but in spring - generally in May. Some of the best cherries come from Vignola which is close to Modena. The mild winter in Italy has resulted in Italian strawberries being available earlier than usual.
For local Bolognese dishes you must not forget bollito misto. Easter Sunday, rather than have baby lamb or goat, we always have bollito misto with the brodo being used as the base for a very liquid risotto to which we add hard boiled eggs previously blessed at Sunday mass.
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#9
Joined: Jan 2006
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my 2nd fav gelato in all of europe (so far) is "galleria 49" in bologna. 10 minute walk from central piazza. Fresh, simple, delicious. their granita is also top notch.
hotel touring has a quiet little bar on its rooftop... just go to the little hotel and take the elevator up. it's got a beautiful view of the city, for the price of a drink!
hotel touring has a quiet little bar on its rooftop... just go to the little hotel and take the elevator up. it's got a beautiful view of the city, for the price of a drink!
#10
Joined: Feb 2014
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nochblad, you can buy fine Italian cherries in the Bologna markets in late June and July, and even in early August in some years. The Vignola cherries are over by June, but the Bologna markets also carry them from Marostica and Sant'Orsola, which have an extended season.
#11
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Joined: Mar 2010
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Note to self: go to Bologna in June and July to sample cherries to which I am absolutely addicted!!!
But..... this is trip is for husband and son so, on behalf of them a big:
GRAZIE MILLE for all your contributions which will all go in the book that I am busy assembling for them.
Buona Pasqua to all!
But..... this is trip is for husband and son so, on behalf of them a big:
GRAZIE MILLE for all your contributions which will all go in the book that I am busy assembling for them.
Buona Pasqua to all!
#12
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 6,531
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Elisabeth54,
nochblad was essentially correct in pointing out that the cherry extravaganza in the province of Bologna happens in May, mainly centered around the town of Vignola, which is not far from the city of Bologna and can be reached by train. So if you really want to enjoy local cherries + see Bologna, then May (not June or July) is the optimal time to go for hyperlocal fruit. Other prized cherries are harvested beyond May in Marostica (in the Veneto), Sant'Orsola (in the Trentino) and near Portofino on the Italian Riviera, and many will find their way into Bologna's best market stalls. I have also eaten delicious cherries from Basilicata, but I dont know exactly where they are grown or what is the prime month.
nochblad was essentially correct in pointing out that the cherry extravaganza in the province of Bologna happens in May, mainly centered around the town of Vignola, which is not far from the city of Bologna and can be reached by train. So if you really want to enjoy local cherries + see Bologna, then May (not June or July) is the optimal time to go for hyperlocal fruit. Other prized cherries are harvested beyond May in Marostica (in the Veneto), Sant'Orsola (in the Trentino) and near Portofino on the Italian Riviera, and many will find their way into Bologna's best market stalls. I have also eaten delicious cherries from Basilicata, but I dont know exactly where they are grown or what is the prime month.
#13
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Joined: Mar 2010
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Thank you Sandralist, I will definitely remember but..... my two men are due to be in Bologna in mid-April. Too early for cherries. After all your wonderful stories and tips I cannot wait to go there myself very soon though. For a glimpse of my beloved Rome I shall watch Urbi ed Orbi tomorrow, Easter Sunday.
#17
Joined: Feb 2014
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Coming shortly in Bologna are fresh peas, along with asparagus and strawberries. Italy has taken to growing kiwis, which the Bolognesi sometimes eat with proscuitto when melons have yet to arrive. There are fava beans to be eaten raw with spicy salume. It might not be to early for stuffed zucchini (typically stuffed with a mousse of mortadella). High on my list for springtime in Bologna is passatelli in brodo, a kind of cross between pasta and dumplings: bread crumbs, eggs and parmigiano-reggiano cheese mixed into a ball of dough, which is then passed through a speical sieve to make long fat noodles, which are served in a rich poultry broth.
http://www.ricettepercucinare.com/ma...1/DSC_0827.jpg
Large ravioli-type tortelloni pasta stuffed with ricotta and spinach (served with butter) should be fresh and good. It will still be cool enough to enjoy all the local robust classics, in particular lasagne and gramigna con salsiccia, a curly pasta served with ground sausage and a touch of cream.
http://www.ricettepercucinare.com/ma...1/DSC_0827.jpg
Large ravioli-type tortelloni pasta stuffed with ricotta and spinach (served with butter) should be fresh and good. It will still be cool enough to enjoy all the local robust classics, in particular lasagne and gramigna con salsiccia, a curly pasta served with ground sausage and a touch of cream.
#18
Joined: Apr 2003
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I had a wonderful trip to Bologna with my family and in-laws - beautiful city, interesting sites, wonderful food and not at all crowded like the more popular cities in Italy. This is quite long but you may want to skim this trip report for some ideas.
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...ia-romagna.cfm
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...ia-romagna.cfm
#19
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Joined: Mar 2010
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Hello Sally30. I had already found and copied your trip report but thanks for mentioning it. I have noticed that Bologna apparently is an uncut gem and, thankfully, is not yet discovered by the crowds. What a good choice by my husband and son; I wish I could join them. I will most definitely ask them to make notes so I can do my bit and report back to the Fodor's crows. Thanks again all for your feedback and tips.






