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18 days until first time in France - overwhelmed by choices!

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18 days until first time in France - overwhelmed by choices!

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Old Aug 25th, 2015, 06:11 AM
  #21  
 
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I understand the Eurostar reflex many have but flying London to Bordeaux and working back to Paris would have been much less total driving.

Is your apartment rental near Orly? You could just train to Fountainebleau and get a car there.
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Old Aug 25th, 2015, 07:12 AM
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If you can at least drop Bordeaux that would be a great start. You still haven't mentioned the name of the town where you are staying in the Auvergne. Be sure to mention that if you want suggestions. However, if you can drop the Auvergne too then you are really going to have much more time to visit places instead of spending time behind the wheel.

Keep in mind that if you avoid the autoroutes and stay on the small country roads you are going to add a whole lot of extra driving time to your trip. However, my favorite part of vacationing in France is usually wandering on the small country roads and getting off the beaten path. Pay close attention to my advice about using the Michelin maps to wander. and "get lost".

In regards to getting from Fontainebleau to Pouilloux that is a 4 hour non-stop drive (viamichelin) taking the quickest and most direct route. If you have time to make a detour on the way then I highly recommend a visit to Vézelay, which is only a slight detour off your route. It's a beautiful medieval hilltop town with gorgeous views of the surrounding countryside:

http://en.vezelaytourisme.com/

Alternatively, if you want to visit a winery then just look for signs that say "dégustation", which means these places are open for walk-in visits. You don't have to seek them out as you'll see these signs everywhere in every wine region of France. It is proper etiquette when visiting these places, especially if they are "mom and pop" types of places, to buy at least two or three bottles. The deeper you get into Burgundy the more of these signs you will see but you'll only see them if traveling off the autoroutes.

You have so little time in Burgundy, which is a wonderful region that merits at least a one week visit, that I would forget visiting Fontainebleau and make the most of your day heading straight to Burgundy from your tree house. You'll see plenty of châteaux in the Loire and if you must visit Fontainebleau then it is a very easy day trip to make by train from Paris (38 minutes by train from Paris plus a short bus ride to the château).

The link to the thread below has info about things to see and do in the Loire (towns to visit, châteaux, wine etc.):

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-de-france.cfm
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Old Aug 25th, 2015, 02:49 PM
  #23  
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FrenchMystique we are staying in Saint-Rémy-de-Chargnat in Auvergne. I would skip it at this point, but my husband is very intrigued by the old volcanoes. And the forest of Fontainebleau. Maybe having such an abridged drive through Burgundy will inspire a longer return trip in the future!
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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Old Aug 25th, 2015, 04:04 PM
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Regarding forests, all the royal chateaux were surrounded by them and I recall, on a walk across the Loire Valley from Chambord to Chinon, a long day traversing a former royal hunting forest, utterly deserted, didn't see another soul all day, with roads in a star (etoile?) configuration radiating out to other towns & villages. Probably used centuries ago for outings by carriage as well as hunting. So you don't have to go to Fontainebleau to experience such a forest, if you plan to be in the Loire also.
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Old Aug 25th, 2015, 05:14 PM
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@ reliena -- love the emoji!
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Old Aug 25th, 2015, 05:25 PM
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Some logistics to think about. It's a 3 hour non-stop drive from Pouilloux to Saint-Rémy-de-Chargnat and from there a 4-1/2 hour non-stop drive to Bordeaux.

Some websites for the volcano park:

http://www.parcdesvolcans.fr/

http://www.auvergne-tourism.com/regi...ark-279-2.html

Regarding the forest in Fontainebleau, what exactly does your husband want to see there? I agree with the above that the forest near Fontainebleau is like any other forest anywhere in France. Unless you're planning on making a detour to Barbizon then all you see is a bunch of trees. It's not that exciting. The forest near Chambord would be just the same. As noted above, all the royal and major châteaux are surrounded by huge forests (Compiègne, Chantilly, Versailles, Saint-Germain-en-Laye, Vincennes etc.) and they are criss crossed with dead straight cart paths because they were used primarily by the nobility and royals for hunting.
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Old Aug 25th, 2015, 08:09 PM
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Sigh, how delightful to honeymoon in France. I am in agreement with denisea & kja with regard to the Loire. Stayed in a beautiful chateau hotel on one trip and a delightful B&B in Amboise. We enjoyed Amboise very much. Hope you can slow it down some and savor more of the places you visit. Please post when you return.
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Old Aug 25th, 2015, 08:50 PM
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You are from Canada and your hubby is excited about visiting forests??? Just drive him around home to get it out of his system. Tree trunks are really not that exciting. Most Canadians "laugh" at the French infatuation with forests. Go to Europe to visit things that don't exist at home - medieval villages, chateaux, Roman ruins, caves with prehistoric paintings & stalactites & mites.

Your itinerary looks like my first visit to Europe in 1977. My sister & mother "bailed out" half-way through the trip & my wife threatened divorce. We spent most of the daylight & early evenings in a car. We didn't remember much about the trip. On our next visit to Europe 2 years later, we re-visited the same places so we could "experience" what we missed on the first trip. Now we spend 2 months in Europe (mainly France) every year - and usually spend 2 weeks in just one location before we move on the the next spot.

Less is more.

Stu Dudley
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Old Aug 25th, 2015, 11:47 PM
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Just a warning to watch the speed limits, especially when using the secondary roads. Speed limits change suddenly, when entering villages, for example, or near roadworks.
You will get fined if you speed, and the car rental company will add its own charges.

Driving is easy in France; good roads, well sign posted, good rest stops on the motorway.

Enjoy your honeymoon!
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Old Aug 26th, 2015, 07:48 AM
  #30  
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Thanks everyone! I will have the fella read all your comments! I am ready to pass on Fontainebleau. Unfortunately the night just outside Paris near Fontainebleau is only 50% refundable and honestly... a tree house! So cool!

FrenchMystique - we already cancelled Bordeaux! Two nights between Tours and Amboise instead.

We all learn from our mistakes... but if I treat the whole thing like a mistake, it won't be much of a good time!

Picking up many good tips - on driving, how wineries work... this is great, thanks!
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Old Aug 26th, 2015, 08:15 AM
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This is a perfect example of someone overextending a bit, getting kind advice early and adjustments being made.

I can only imagine what would have happened if a few other regulars had posted early on, driven the OP away and that would have been that.
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Old Aug 26th, 2015, 08:51 AM
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I understand there's only so much you can do once things are booked but at least canceling Bordeaux was a big step towards smoothing out your itinerary. I'll see if I have any other ideas later or tomorrow when I have time.
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Old Aug 26th, 2015, 08:54 AM
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BTW, when I said forget visiting Fontainebleau I wasn't talking about canceling your tree house. What I meant was don't bother visiting the forest or the château. That time will be better spent visiting things in Burgundy on the way to Pouilloux. If you must see it then do the Château de Fontainebleau as a day trip from Paris.
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Old Aug 26th, 2015, 09:16 AM
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Wekiva, I don't completely follow your comment... but I'm new here and honestly, to trip planning (my longest trips have been to England, where I've been going since I was 11 to visit my mother who lived there, and for the most part together we've only been able to travel for weddings! The life of someone in the perpetual recession in their 30s), so this is my first time in the Fodors boards.

FrenchMystique - I really appreciate your detailed advice! You are very generous.
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Old Aug 26th, 2015, 10:02 AM
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reliena

Wekive was describing a "too often" situation where someone like you asks for comments on their "too-fast-paced" itinerary. Respondents then get a little condescending and sometimes a tad "insulting". The OP (you) gets a little "miffed" and also didn't hear what they wanted to hear - and "leaves" the thread without any further comments.

You haven't done that, nor have any respondents been "snarky" - so far.

We visited Fontainbleau last year and it is a huge chateau that takes a long time to visit. Parking in the town is difficult also (we actually stayed in a hotel across the street from the chateau).

Stu Dudley
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Old Aug 26th, 2015, 10:19 AM
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Thanks Stu! That clarifies things! I guess one has to assume that when a newbie in a travel forum, you're going to get responses from people who know a whole lot more than the newbie does!

I think we'll have a great time even if it's rushed here and there. We are staying with locals and with the good tips, we may avoid some of the worst blunders!
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Old Aug 27th, 2015, 06:07 AM
  #37  
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Update: sounds like John is willing to budge on the forests of Fontainebleau! But maybe we will pass through there on the way to the tree house, just so he can say he saw all the majestic trees.
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Old Aug 27th, 2015, 07:55 AM
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Happy to help reliena. If you are picking up the car at Orly at 6PM I don't know how much daylight you'll have before arriving at your tree house. Sunset end of September will be around 7:45 and you'll get about half an hour of twilight after that. Why don't you post a link to your tree house. I know the area around Fontainebleau very well and may be able to make some suggestions on a route you could take from Orly to your tree house. I'd be interested in seeing photos of the tree house anyway so how about posting a link to the place you rented.

With your new plan it seems as though you'll leave the Auvergne and head for the Loire. You mentioned splitting your time between Tours and Amboise. So are you planning on spending one night in each location and is your accommodation already booked for both places? I would suggest not basing in Tours but spend both nights in Amboise. Tours has some lovely parts but it's a large town and can be a pain to drive in. Amboise is a small quaint town.

If you'd like you can have a look at the following thread for info about the Loire. There are links to the tourist office websites for all the noteworthy towns and villages and there are also links with info about châteaux, wine, biking etc.:

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-de-france.cfm
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Old Aug 27th, 2015, 08:28 AM
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I agree with FMT. Tours is not interesting at all & somewhat difficult to get in & out of. Amboise or Chennonceau would be my choices of places to stay east of Chinon. We were there for 2 weeks last year, and 1 week west of Chinon a few years ago, and 2 weeks north of Loches in about 2001, plus about a week in Chinon in the 1990s.

Stu Dudley
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Old Aug 27th, 2015, 09:18 AM
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I'll "third" FMT and Stu. Tours was one of our biggest travel disappointments, while we loved Amboise. I also loved Chinon, although we were there for just half a day. I'd like to go back and stay for about a month in that area. We visited many chateaux from a base at Amboise.

Chinon, BTW, has very good wine---it's not Bordeaux or Burgundy, but.. . .

One other thing--you mentioned wanting to get off the motorways. In much of France that'd be a mistake. There are so many towns, and the secondary roads are so windy, that it's hard to make much time. We've learned that our vacation time is more valuable than the substantial Euro tolls , so if we're trying to get a long way--e.g. Fontainebleau--Pouilloux. Take the A6 to D974 ("Route des Grands Crus") and then go north at least as far as Nuits-Saint-George. This is a very good road to take your time on.

There are lots of wineries in that area. I'd also spend some time in Beaune as that is "wine city" and a very interesting town to boot. They can tell you what wineries to visit. There are some cellars right in the city.

Best wishes on your marriage and bon voyage.
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