Seeking Serenity on the South Island
Jul 31st, 2018 | 05:54 AM
#41
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,174
Likes: 83
No, we didn't make it to the Saturday market in Nelson, we were just passing through. We did like Nelson more this time than in past visits for whatever reason though - maybe because it was so quiet the day we were there!
We visited Rabbit Island on a previous trip, but I think we just drove around and never saw the beach, so finding it this time was a real treat - particularly as it was completely spontaneous - one of those 'let's take this road and see where it goes' kind of things.
We visited Rabbit Island on a previous trip, but I think we just drove around and never saw the beach, so finding it this time was a real treat - particularly as it was completely spontaneous - one of those 'let's take this road and see where it goes' kind of things.
Jul 31st, 2018 | 08:03 AM
#42
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,174
Likes: 83
Where we ate, imbibed and caffeinated:
Rimu Wine Bar (Mapua) – lovely place on the Mapua wharf - it’s here we discovered our favorite Pinot Noir of the trip – Spencer Hill - The Wild One 2015 (a limited release that we later cleaned the place out of and will probably never see again). Nice pours in proper wine glasses – nice stemware always makes wine taste better! We had pre-dinner drinks one night (NZ $26) and then returned another night for an encore with live music and disappointing pizza (NZ $66, a glass of wine each and two small pizzas).
https://www.rimugrove.co.nz/the-wine-bar/
Our second visit was on a Friday night; as we drove into Mapua, we saw police setting up cones – on the only road into/out of Mapua – we knew that this meant RBT (Random Breath Testing) and that’d we’d be pulled over on the way out. Sure enough - Bill was given a passive breath test which detected mouth alcohol, he was asked how much he’d consumed (one glass of wine, which while true, I’m sure the cops hear all the time). We were then told to pull aside for a secondary test. As expected, he passed and we were on our way. It pays to know your limit.
https://www.nzta.govt.nz/resources/r...-drugs-limits/
Jellyfish (Mapua Wharf) – A Roger recommendation, and as luck would have it, in the same building as the former Flax, a favorite of ours from years ago (we knew Mapua back in the day and have watched it transform over the years. It’s become quite the little hot spot.)
We had a nice dinner here, Bill said his lamb rump was excellent, my gnocchi and veg was good, albeit not particularly memorable (NZ $88 with one glass of wine each).
https://www.jellyfishmapua.co.nz/
Jester House Caf (Tasman) - we had a nice breakfast here - Eggs Bennie for Bill (but of course), savory muffin for me, flat whites for both - good, quirky and fun, excellent service, interesting composting toilets (NZ $33)
Jester House Caf and Tame Eels | Award Winning Restaurant and Caf in Tasman, New Zealand.
Moutere Hills Winery (Fox n Grapes wine bar which operates out of the hops barn - only open on Friday evenings) - although we’d booked online well in advance, they had no record of us, but it was a non-issue. Dinner was pretty good – pan fried fish of the day for Bill, Parmesan coated chicken breast on risotto for me (NZ $89 with a bottle of wine, most of which went home with us). The drive back was a bit challenging – dark winding country roads, pitiful Tiida headlights.
Moutere Hills - Moutere Hills Vineyard
Kai Restaurant – (Kaiteriteri, beachside) – good flat whites, friendly service
Toad Hall (Mouteka) – cute place right on the main drag. We ate breakfast here one morning - Eggs Bennie for Bill (good, although not his favorite), grilled halloumi and the world’s biggest savory muffin for me, nice flat whites (NZ $41). We returned later the same day for fruit ice cream (NZ $5 a cup).
https://www.toadhallmotueka.co.nz/
Mapua Village Bakery (Mapua Wharf - formerly The Naked Bun) – we called in once for flat whites and chocolate croissants - not nearly as good as when it was The Naked Bun, lackadaisical service (NZ $27 including a loaf of ciabatta bread to take away).
Little India (Nelson) – yes, more stalking of our favorite family from the Punjab region of North India! We had two excellent lunches here (Kadai chicken, Shahi Paneer, garlic naan, NZ $44 and delicious!). And I bought their cookbook – wish me luck.
https://www.littleindia.co.nz/about-little-india/
Tasman Village General Store (Tasman) – I regret not coming here earlier in our stay as this place is a little gem. Excellent flat whites and ice cream blended with local blackcurrants.
The Smokehouse (Mapua) – known for having the best fish and chips in the area – we popped in twice for tubs of their smoked salmon pate which I’m told was delicious (NZ $9)
Photos here:
Rimu Wine Bar (Mapua) – lovely place on the Mapua wharf - it’s here we discovered our favorite Pinot Noir of the trip – Spencer Hill - The Wild One 2015 (a limited release that we later cleaned the place out of and will probably never see again). Nice pours in proper wine glasses – nice stemware always makes wine taste better! We had pre-dinner drinks one night (NZ $26) and then returned another night for an encore with live music and disappointing pizza (NZ $66, a glass of wine each and two small pizzas).
https://www.rimugrove.co.nz/the-wine-bar/
Our second visit was on a Friday night; as we drove into Mapua, we saw police setting up cones – on the only road into/out of Mapua – we knew that this meant RBT (Random Breath Testing) and that’d we’d be pulled over on the way out. Sure enough - Bill was given a passive breath test which detected mouth alcohol, he was asked how much he’d consumed (one glass of wine, which while true, I’m sure the cops hear all the time). We were then told to pull aside for a secondary test. As expected, he passed and we were on our way. It pays to know your limit.
https://www.nzta.govt.nz/resources/r...-drugs-limits/
Jellyfish (Mapua Wharf) – A Roger recommendation, and as luck would have it, in the same building as the former Flax, a favorite of ours from years ago (we knew Mapua back in the day and have watched it transform over the years. It’s become quite the little hot spot.)
We had a nice dinner here, Bill said his lamb rump was excellent, my gnocchi and veg was good, albeit not particularly memorable (NZ $88 with one glass of wine each).
https://www.jellyfishmapua.co.nz/
Jester House Caf (Tasman) - we had a nice breakfast here - Eggs Bennie for Bill (but of course), savory muffin for me, flat whites for both - good, quirky and fun, excellent service, interesting composting toilets (NZ $33)
Jester House Caf and Tame Eels | Award Winning Restaurant and Caf in Tasman, New Zealand.
Moutere Hills Winery (Fox n Grapes wine bar which operates out of the hops barn - only open on Friday evenings) - although we’d booked online well in advance, they had no record of us, but it was a non-issue. Dinner was pretty good – pan fried fish of the day for Bill, Parmesan coated chicken breast on risotto for me (NZ $89 with a bottle of wine, most of which went home with us). The drive back was a bit challenging – dark winding country roads, pitiful Tiida headlights.
Moutere Hills - Moutere Hills Vineyard
Kai Restaurant – (Kaiteriteri, beachside) – good flat whites, friendly service
Toad Hall (Mouteka) – cute place right on the main drag. We ate breakfast here one morning - Eggs Bennie for Bill (good, although not his favorite), grilled halloumi and the world’s biggest savory muffin for me, nice flat whites (NZ $41). We returned later the same day for fruit ice cream (NZ $5 a cup).
https://www.toadhallmotueka.co.nz/
Mapua Village Bakery (Mapua Wharf - formerly The Naked Bun) – we called in once for flat whites and chocolate croissants - not nearly as good as when it was The Naked Bun, lackadaisical service (NZ $27 including a loaf of ciabatta bread to take away).
Little India (Nelson) – yes, more stalking of our favorite family from the Punjab region of North India! We had two excellent lunches here (Kadai chicken, Shahi Paneer, garlic naan, NZ $44 and delicious!). And I bought their cookbook – wish me luck.
https://www.littleindia.co.nz/about-little-india/
Tasman Village General Store (Tasman) – I regret not coming here earlier in our stay as this place is a little gem. Excellent flat whites and ice cream blended with local blackcurrants.
The Smokehouse (Mapua) – known for having the best fish and chips in the area – we popped in twice for tubs of their smoked salmon pate which I’m told was delicious (NZ $9)
Photos here:
To be continued...
Jul 31st, 2018 | 12:15 PM
#43
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,174
Likes: 83
Travel Day/Tasman to Rarangi:
With only a two hour drive ahead, we had a leisurely morning; we walked to/from Tasman Village General Store for flat whites and had a nice long visit with Roger and Stephanie. We then said our goodbyes and drove to Nelson for one last meal at Little India. We had a bit of trouble locating SH 6 after our lunch diversion, but eventually found ourselves creeping up the very squiggly Rai Saddle Summit. The going was slow due to a major road realignment project – presumably designed to eliminate some of those whiplash inducing curves.
As we drove through the Rai Valley, I wondered, not for the first time, why New Zealand seems so intent on logging itself to bits. We passed Mount Richmond Estate, where we spent a lovely (albeit wet) two nights back in 2012, now for sale.
By now the beautiful weather we’d had in Tasman was a distant memory. Torrential rain and fierce squalls awaited us in Renwick, where we popped into the I-Site-cum-yarn shop for a map and directions to Rarangi.
Why Rarangi? (And where is it exactly?)
Quiet, off-the-tourist-trail. Equidistant between Blenheim (Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc!) and Picton (Marlborough Sounds!).
Rarangi is a small coastal settlement at the far north east of Cloudy Bay. It has no shops or restaurants. Just peace, quiet and views.
Our Accommodation:
https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/16709407
This was the best accommodation of our four weeks on the South Island (USD $128 per night). Sparkling clean, spacious and exceptionally well equipped with an incredibly comfortable bed. Lovingly decorated with lots of little extras and finished to a very high standard. We felt quite spoiled here. And as testament to our off-the-beaten path mindset, owner Melanie had never heard of our next destination (Coalgate). Bingo.
What we did during our stay in Rarangi:
We explored our backyard, walking from our accommodation down to Rarangi Beach, logging 2.6 miles while soaking up the views (unfortunately, we missed the pod of whales frolicking off the coast the next morning – aargh).
We sought out “the tower with views” mentioned by the woman in the Renwick I-Site-cum-yarn shop, finding ourselves at the Italian inspired Highfield TerraVin, a pretty vineyard/cellar door/restaurant situated in the southern Wither Hills. We climbed the tower, took in the beautiful views, tasted the drops, (bought a bottle of 2011 Pinot Noir – YES, in Sauvignon Blanc country!) and had a nice chat with the young Canadian woman manning the cellar door.
Restaurant Highfield TerraVin
No self-respecting chocoholic could pass up Makana Chocolate Factory near Blenheim, which didn’t exist the last time we were in the area (or our memories are worse than we think). We watched the goings-on behind the glass and gobbled a sample…but left empty-handed. My socks weren’t knocked off and I just couldn’t justify a purchase at those prices.
https://www.makana.co.nz/
We wandered, soaking up the Marlborough scenery; the ochre-yellow of endless vineyards, sheep grazing amongst the vines, the rolling Wither Hills, and distant snow-capped mountains, a reminder that winter was upon us (we later learned that Queenstown had snow and the Crown Ridge Road had been closed).
We watched the black swans, got caught in a sheep traffic jam or two, and reacquainted ourselves with the area by aimless meandering.
A gentleman overheard us as we combed the shelves at New World* looking for that fabulous Spencer Hill Pinot Noir we’d fallen in love with in Mapua – he complimented the vast selection at this particular location, asked what we were looking for, and mentioned that he knew the founder of Spencer Hill (Phil Jones, who came to NZ from California). Small world.
*It’s here that we also found a much coveted item on our NZ shopping list – Nando’s Extra Bloody Hot Peri-Peri Sauce (fire-eater Bill’s all-time favorite, and near impossible to find in Colorado).
We followed Queen Charlotte Drive between Picton and Havelock, yet another slice of the South Island I never seem to tire of (despite the nausea inducing squiggles). Native forest on one side, the sounds and various bays on the other (including the not-so-pretty Waimahara Wharf at Shakespeare Bay, a deep water port facility designed for timber export).
https://www.newzealand.com/us/featur...arlotte-drive/
We walked the rocky, root riddled and steeply stepped track to Cullen Point, which leads to a lookout with spectacular views of Mahau Sound and Kaituna and Pelorus estuaries.
We considered taking a water taxi from Picton to Ship Cove and then walking the Queen Charlotte Track to Furneaux Lodge. But, having walked this section a few times on previous trips, I wasn’t sure if my knee was, 1) up for the first hour, which is steep and rocky and 2) up for the entire 14 kilometer trek.
Ship Cove to Furneaux Lodge - Beachcomber Cruises
So after a bit of hemming and hawing at various I-Sites and checking the weather forecast, we scrapped the QCT entirely and opted to do something we’d never done before – The Pelorus Sound Mail Boat (NZ $115 each).
https://themailboat.co.nz/
What a spectacular idea this was. The six hour trip left from Havelock, a 40 minute drive from Rarangi. The day was cold, but beautifully clear; the boat near empty (nine of us on a boat that could seat 50). We took a packed lunch (complete with bottle of Pinot Noir, having obtained permission from the captain); we were good to go.
It was a great day all around – excellent commentary (we learned that the bays within the sound get very little sunlight for six weeks over winter), beautiful scenery, a quasi-tour of a mussel farm, stops at a boat builder’s shop/residence, and at a small family run lodge/coffee shop. We saw seals and dolphins and met some hardy Pelorus Sound residents and their pets (including sheep, goats and pigs) all while delivering the mail (and groceries and…wallpaper).
Another cold sunny morning we set out to explore the winding (partly gravel) Port Underwood Road, which follows the coast between Rarangi and Picton (~50 km). We’d driven a portion of it on a previous winter trip, beginning near Waikawa, but turned around due to poor road conditions.
The road was in decent shape this time, despite several small land slips. Melanie told us later that the road had been closed the week prior due to major slip damage.
*NZine* Port Underwood Road
We stopped at Monkey Bay, walked to the overlook for views over Rarangi and Cloudy Bay, explored Whites Bay, watched the surfers at Robinhood Bay and generally admired the scenery, although many areas were logged into oblivion.
Near Picton, we walked the short track down to the beach at Karaka Point Reserve. We had a picnic at a table near the car park, basking in the glorious sunshine overlooking Queen Charlotte Sound. We then continued driving to Waikawa to poke around the jetty before heading to Victoria Domain, where we walked an hour of the Snout Track.
https://marlboroughnz.com/guides/walks/the-snout-track
Picton seemed unchanged since our last visit - still sleepy. We wandered through town and walked across the Coat Hanger Bridge, just because it was there and so were we.
To be continued...
With only a two hour drive ahead, we had a leisurely morning; we walked to/from Tasman Village General Store for flat whites and had a nice long visit with Roger and Stephanie. We then said our goodbyes and drove to Nelson for one last meal at Little India. We had a bit of trouble locating SH 6 after our lunch diversion, but eventually found ourselves creeping up the very squiggly Rai Saddle Summit. The going was slow due to a major road realignment project – presumably designed to eliminate some of those whiplash inducing curves.
As we drove through the Rai Valley, I wondered, not for the first time, why New Zealand seems so intent on logging itself to bits. We passed Mount Richmond Estate, where we spent a lovely (albeit wet) two nights back in 2012, now for sale.
By now the beautiful weather we’d had in Tasman was a distant memory. Torrential rain and fierce squalls awaited us in Renwick, where we popped into the I-Site-cum-yarn shop for a map and directions to Rarangi.
Why Rarangi? (And where is it exactly?)
Quiet, off-the-tourist-trail. Equidistant between Blenheim (Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc!) and Picton (Marlborough Sounds!).
Rarangi is a small coastal settlement at the far north east of Cloudy Bay. It has no shops or restaurants. Just peace, quiet and views.
Our Accommodation:
https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/16709407
This was the best accommodation of our four weeks on the South Island (USD $128 per night). Sparkling clean, spacious and exceptionally well equipped with an incredibly comfortable bed. Lovingly decorated with lots of little extras and finished to a very high standard. We felt quite spoiled here. And as testament to our off-the-beaten path mindset, owner Melanie had never heard of our next destination (Coalgate). Bingo.
What we did during our stay in Rarangi:
We explored our backyard, walking from our accommodation down to Rarangi Beach, logging 2.6 miles while soaking up the views (unfortunately, we missed the pod of whales frolicking off the coast the next morning – aargh).
We sought out “the tower with views” mentioned by the woman in the Renwick I-Site-cum-yarn shop, finding ourselves at the Italian inspired Highfield TerraVin, a pretty vineyard/cellar door/restaurant situated in the southern Wither Hills. We climbed the tower, took in the beautiful views, tasted the drops, (bought a bottle of 2011 Pinot Noir – YES, in Sauvignon Blanc country!) and had a nice chat with the young Canadian woman manning the cellar door.
Restaurant Highfield TerraVin
No self-respecting chocoholic could pass up Makana Chocolate Factory near Blenheim, which didn’t exist the last time we were in the area (or our memories are worse than we think). We watched the goings-on behind the glass and gobbled a sample…but left empty-handed. My socks weren’t knocked off and I just couldn’t justify a purchase at those prices.
https://www.makana.co.nz/
We wandered, soaking up the Marlborough scenery; the ochre-yellow of endless vineyards, sheep grazing amongst the vines, the rolling Wither Hills, and distant snow-capped mountains, a reminder that winter was upon us (we later learned that Queenstown had snow and the Crown Ridge Road had been closed).
We watched the black swans, got caught in a sheep traffic jam or two, and reacquainted ourselves with the area by aimless meandering.
A gentleman overheard us as we combed the shelves at New World* looking for that fabulous Spencer Hill Pinot Noir we’d fallen in love with in Mapua – he complimented the vast selection at this particular location, asked what we were looking for, and mentioned that he knew the founder of Spencer Hill (Phil Jones, who came to NZ from California). Small world.
*It’s here that we also found a much coveted item on our NZ shopping list – Nando’s Extra Bloody Hot Peri-Peri Sauce (fire-eater Bill’s all-time favorite, and near impossible to find in Colorado).
We followed Queen Charlotte Drive between Picton and Havelock, yet another slice of the South Island I never seem to tire of (despite the nausea inducing squiggles). Native forest on one side, the sounds and various bays on the other (including the not-so-pretty Waimahara Wharf at Shakespeare Bay, a deep water port facility designed for timber export).
https://www.newzealand.com/us/featur...arlotte-drive/
We walked the rocky, root riddled and steeply stepped track to Cullen Point, which leads to a lookout with spectacular views of Mahau Sound and Kaituna and Pelorus estuaries.
We considered taking a water taxi from Picton to Ship Cove and then walking the Queen Charlotte Track to Furneaux Lodge. But, having walked this section a few times on previous trips, I wasn’t sure if my knee was, 1) up for the first hour, which is steep and rocky and 2) up for the entire 14 kilometer trek.
Ship Cove to Furneaux Lodge - Beachcomber Cruises
So after a bit of hemming and hawing at various I-Sites and checking the weather forecast, we scrapped the QCT entirely and opted to do something we’d never done before – The Pelorus Sound Mail Boat (NZ $115 each).
https://themailboat.co.nz/
What a spectacular idea this was. The six hour trip left from Havelock, a 40 minute drive from Rarangi. The day was cold, but beautifully clear; the boat near empty (nine of us on a boat that could seat 50). We took a packed lunch (complete with bottle of Pinot Noir, having obtained permission from the captain); we were good to go.
It was a great day all around – excellent commentary (we learned that the bays within the sound get very little sunlight for six weeks over winter), beautiful scenery, a quasi-tour of a mussel farm, stops at a boat builder’s shop/residence, and at a small family run lodge/coffee shop. We saw seals and dolphins and met some hardy Pelorus Sound residents and their pets (including sheep, goats and pigs) all while delivering the mail (and groceries and…wallpaper).
Another cold sunny morning we set out to explore the winding (partly gravel) Port Underwood Road, which follows the coast between Rarangi and Picton (~50 km). We’d driven a portion of it on a previous winter trip, beginning near Waikawa, but turned around due to poor road conditions.
The road was in decent shape this time, despite several small land slips. Melanie told us later that the road had been closed the week prior due to major slip damage.
*NZine* Port Underwood Road
We stopped at Monkey Bay, walked to the overlook for views over Rarangi and Cloudy Bay, explored Whites Bay, watched the surfers at Robinhood Bay and generally admired the scenery, although many areas were logged into oblivion.
Near Picton, we walked the short track down to the beach at Karaka Point Reserve. We had a picnic at a table near the car park, basking in the glorious sunshine overlooking Queen Charlotte Sound. We then continued driving to Waikawa to poke around the jetty before heading to Victoria Domain, where we walked an hour of the Snout Track.
https://marlboroughnz.com/guides/walks/the-snout-track
Picton seemed unchanged since our last visit - still sleepy. We wandered through town and walked across the Coat Hanger Bridge, just because it was there and so were we.
To be continued...
Jul 31st, 2018 | 08:17 PM
#46
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,935
Likes: 0
Thank-you for taking the time to include your details and your wonderful photos. We just experienced large groups of Asian tourists in the Canadian Rockies. I heard people continually make comments wondering if they get great rates or have huge promotions.
Jul 31st, 2018 | 11:02 PM
#47
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 631
Likes: 0
Great report Mel...feeling a bit nostalgic about Rabbit Island. It's a great beach and picnic area.
Agnes Seifried was the Home Economics teacher when I was at high school in Nelson. New Zealand feels like a big village sometimes!
The Nelson market is very good - high quality goods and yummy food.
Agnes Seifried was the Home Economics teacher when I was at high school in Nelson. New Zealand feels like a big village sometimes!
The Nelson market is very good - high quality goods and yummy food.
Aug 1st, 2018 | 08:21 AM
#48
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,174
Likes: 83
deladeb - Glad you're following along. The population of China is 1.37 billion. That's a scary figure. You might find this article interesting (or frightening as I did):
https://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/c...inese-tourist/
tasmangirl - That's a good way of putting it - a big village. The owner of a vineyard we visited in Brightwater used to be neighbors with our accommodation owners in Tasman. Almost seems like everyone knows everyone or at least knows of them.
https://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/c...inese-tourist/
tasmangirl - That's a good way of putting it - a big village. The owner of a vineyard we visited in Brightwater used to be neighbors with our accommodation owners in Tasman. Almost seems like everyone knows everyone or at least knows of them.
Aug 1st, 2018 | 08:26 AM
#49
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,174
Likes: 83
Where we ate, imbibed and caffeinated:
Figaro’s (Blenheim) – we popped in one morning for flat whites and a pineapple muffin – good choice, despite the dismal parking situation.
Blenheim has a weird congested layout. The convoluted Main Street roundabout - a junction of five roads with a railway track running through the middle - defies logic. And while we’re on the topic, Blenheim is the largest town in NZ without a single traffic light; it currently boasts 17 roundabouts, with more on the way.
Rock Ferry Cellar Door and Caf (Rapaura) – we had two of the best meals of our trip here. I’d made a lunch booking online weeks in advance. So good was the food, so tasty the wine and so relaxed the atmosphere that we booked in for the following day and did it all again. As a bonus, wine sold in the restaurant was only $5 more than at the cellar door (unlike, ahem, Amisfield).
Both times Bill opted for the “Fish of the Day (Tarakihi) with puffed quinoa parmesan and herb crust served on a creamy harissa mash topped with caper and preserved lemon salsa”. Likewise, I chose the same dish on both days, the “Herb marinated Waitoa free range chicken with leek, bacon and parmesan risotto topped with roasted red pepper almond salsa”. I’m getting hungry just typing this. (NZ $108 with a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc Fume and two glasses of late harvest Riesling). The second day we opted for a bottle of their Pinot Noir and skipped the late harvest Riesling, NZ $85). Divine.
New Zealand Wine / Rock Ferry Wines
Cortado (Picton) – cozy caf on the waterfront - good flat whites
The Vines Village (Rapaura) – an interesting spot with boutique shops, bike hire and a playground. For us, it was all about Sweet Treats, where we got our Kapati ice cream fix (and a generous serve at that!)
https://www.thevinesvillage.co.nz/
Slip Inn (Havelock) - we had good flat whites here the morning of our Pelorus Sound Mailboat cruise, and a disappointing early dinner upon our return. I convinced Bill that it would be sacrilege for a seafood eater to visit the “Green Lipped Mussel Capital of the World” without trying them, so he humored me by ordering Thai Green Chili mussels, which he proclaimed “not bad, but chewy”. My corn and leek fritters were a near disaster (NZ $45).
Seumus’ Irish Bar (Picton) – we popped in one afternoon for a pint of Guinness and cider (NZ $14). We had the place to ourselves.
Kentucky Eataway (Picton) – the name says it all. We stopped here in a moment of hunger desperation, when little else was open on a Saturday afternoon. Bill bravely tried the fish and chips, which he said weren’t that bad. I settled for fruit ice cream. Food was as expected, surly service was not (NZ $21.50).
And last but not least, a shout out to Pak’n Save, which arrived in Blenheim (Springlands) in 2013, but was new to us (the location, not the chain). Leave it to us to find the best grocery prices on the South Island during our last few days…it’s here that we loaded up on Whittakers chocolate bars and Natural Confectionary Snakes and Squirms to take home - as well as self-catering items for our Rarangi digs.
https://www.whittakers.co.nz/en_WW/
Photos here:
Figaro’s (Blenheim) – we popped in one morning for flat whites and a pineapple muffin – good choice, despite the dismal parking situation.
Blenheim has a weird congested layout. The convoluted Main Street roundabout - a junction of five roads with a railway track running through the middle - defies logic. And while we’re on the topic, Blenheim is the largest town in NZ without a single traffic light; it currently boasts 17 roundabouts, with more on the way.
Rock Ferry Cellar Door and Caf (Rapaura) – we had two of the best meals of our trip here. I’d made a lunch booking online weeks in advance. So good was the food, so tasty the wine and so relaxed the atmosphere that we booked in for the following day and did it all again. As a bonus, wine sold in the restaurant was only $5 more than at the cellar door (unlike, ahem, Amisfield).
Both times Bill opted for the “Fish of the Day (Tarakihi) with puffed quinoa parmesan and herb crust served on a creamy harissa mash topped with caper and preserved lemon salsa”. Likewise, I chose the same dish on both days, the “Herb marinated Waitoa free range chicken with leek, bacon and parmesan risotto topped with roasted red pepper almond salsa”. I’m getting hungry just typing this. (NZ $108 with a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc Fume and two glasses of late harvest Riesling). The second day we opted for a bottle of their Pinot Noir and skipped the late harvest Riesling, NZ $85). Divine.
New Zealand Wine / Rock Ferry Wines
Cortado (Picton) – cozy caf on the waterfront - good flat whites
The Vines Village (Rapaura) – an interesting spot with boutique shops, bike hire and a playground. For us, it was all about Sweet Treats, where we got our Kapati ice cream fix (and a generous serve at that!)
https://www.thevinesvillage.co.nz/
Slip Inn (Havelock) - we had good flat whites here the morning of our Pelorus Sound Mailboat cruise, and a disappointing early dinner upon our return. I convinced Bill that it would be sacrilege for a seafood eater to visit the “Green Lipped Mussel Capital of the World” without trying them, so he humored me by ordering Thai Green Chili mussels, which he proclaimed “not bad, but chewy”. My corn and leek fritters were a near disaster (NZ $45).
Seumus’ Irish Bar (Picton) – we popped in one afternoon for a pint of Guinness and cider (NZ $14). We had the place to ourselves.
Kentucky Eataway (Picton) – the name says it all. We stopped here in a moment of hunger desperation, when little else was open on a Saturday afternoon. Bill bravely tried the fish and chips, which he said weren’t that bad. I settled for fruit ice cream. Food was as expected, surly service was not (NZ $21.50).
And last but not least, a shout out to Pak’n Save, which arrived in Blenheim (Springlands) in 2013, but was new to us (the location, not the chain). Leave it to us to find the best grocery prices on the South Island during our last few days…it’s here that we loaded up on Whittakers chocolate bars and Natural Confectionary Snakes and Squirms to take home - as well as self-catering items for our Rarangi digs.
https://www.whittakers.co.nz/en_WW/
Photos here:
To be continued...
