Seeking Serenity on the South Island
Jul 25th, 2018 | 06:06 AM
#24
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,174
Likes: 83
tripplanner - Yes, they are - they're a South Island issue - particularly along the West Coast. Check out this sandfly map:
https://teara.govt.nz/en/map/14737/sandfly-nuisance-map
https://teara.govt.nz/en/map/14737/sandfly-nuisance-map
Jul 25th, 2018 | 06:21 AM
#25
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,174
Likes: 83
Travel Day/Glenorchy to Fox Glacier:
We left Glenorchy the way we had come, this time under a blanket of damp gloom; low clouds, bizarre and moody, severing the tops of those glorious mountains one minute, teasing us with blue sky the next. Passing through Queenstown yet again we called in at the noisy Café Society in the Five Mile shopping center for unsatisfying tepid flat whites, my request for ‘extra hot’ falling on deaf ears.
Back in the car we passed winery after winery, realizing that we’d not given them sufficient attention (!).
We stopped at Jackson Orchards, questioning our sanity as we stood in the freezing cold eating one last cup of Cromwell fruit ice cream. We watched a group of Chinese visitors get out of their van and pounce on the Pacific Rose apples, scooping up bags full; washing and tucking in on the spot, one member of the party returning a second time for yet another bag before driving on.
Then it was on towards Albert Town, formerly a tiny settlement, now a full on Boom Town, its growth since our last visit discombobulating, feeling very much like a suburb of Wanaka.
We drove alongside beautiful Lake Hawea and Lake Wanaka, the skies now clear, the views incredible, working our way up the lush West Coast. The short walk to the Blue Pools (30 minute return) was impossible to resist despite having done it many times; the river crossing delayed a few minutes by a film crew and their drone.
The notoriously wet West Coast was mercifully dry, we could actually see the tops of the mountains as we worked our way through the tunnel of green; a feast for the eyes. But with 182 kilometers still to go at 2 pm, we were forced to curtail the photo stops.
We made a very brief stop at Bruce Bay, but retreated to the car the minute the sandflies found us, in awe of a couple with a small child leisurely exploring the beach – all wearing shorts! Several optimistic sandflies clung to the car windows as we fled; persistently hanging on for a couple of miles.
It had taken us over eight hours, but as we approached Fox Glacier, we were chuffed to see Aoraki Mount Cook on full display in the waning daylight.
Why Fox Glacier?
1) We needed a place to break up the journey between Glenorchy and Cape Foulwind. 2) Staying in Fox instead of Franz Josef shortened a very long drive day by close to an hour, and 3) in all our visits to the West Coast we had yet to explore the tracks at Gillespies Beach.
Our Accommodation:
http://www.rainforestmotel.co.nz/
Our unit was a bit spartan, but spacious, warm and relatively well equipped (NZ $145 per night). The shower was powerful, the hot water plentiful, the bed too low and too soft for our tastes, the proprietor helpful, Alice the cat friendly.
We were in a block of four units, flanked on either side by a large group of Malaysians. All 10-12 would gather nightly for dinner in one unit. We initially had concerns about noise since we were smack dab in the middle of their group, but our fears were unfounded. Our stay was peaceful. Unfortunately, we had major issues with the WiFi (first time this trip). Undoubtedly due to the number of people surrounding us, each clutching a device.
What we did during our stay in Fox Glacier:
We began our only full day by driving out to Lake Matheson, where we walked to the Jetty Viewpoint and then continued on the Lake Circuit (2.7 miles, 90 minute loop). Lake Matheson is known for its reflections of Aoraki Mount Cook (best viewed at dawn and dusk on clear days), but today, despite the clear skies, the views from Jetty Viewpoint were adversely affected by the wind, which caused ripples in the water. However, we did see lovely reflections later in the walk, from the View of Views (top end of the lake) and Reflection Island.
We explored Gillespies Beach – two of the tracks were closed due to flooding and a damaged bridge, so we walked to the lagoon - a bit of a trudge due to the deep sand, ankle-breaking round rocks and masses of thirsty sandflies – but…the views to the mountains were spectacular (2.7 miles, 90 minutes return, only saw two other people). We continued walking to the bridge, an entire section of which we’d seen earlier near the beach – presumably relocated by either cyclone Fehi or Gita.
We drove the Glacier View Access Road and walked to the overlook, lovely views, and a fascinating tree covered in fungi – 1/2 mile, 15 minute return.
We drove out to Fox Glacier where we walked to the terminal face – the trail steep – the sun blinding (!) the helicopters going nuts overhead, taking full advantage of the fantastic weather (2.18 miles return, 1:15). The track was harder than we remembered; we later learned from Andy (motel proprietor) that it was newly built, having been damaged during one of the cyclones. He also mentioned that some 800 tourists had been stranded in Haast for days - without cell phone coverage - (oh, the horror!) - but with plentiful beer.
Where we ate, imbibed and caffeinated:
With a population of 306, there’s not a huge number of food options in Fox Glacier, but more than one might expect.
The Last Kitchen – we had a pretty good dinner here, fish of the day for Bill (cod), falafel plate for me, glass of wine for both, a bit expensive (NZ $84).
Matheson Café (Lake Matheson) – nice flat whites with incredible views
https://www.lakematheson.com/
Indian Kitchen – owned by the same people who operate The Last Kitchen (next door) – I suspect they share said kitchen. We had a good dinner here – Chicken Tikka Masala, Paneer Tikka Masala and garlic naan (which unfortunately didn’t make it to the table hot) – NZ $47, no drinks. All things considered, a good option in Fox Glacier.
Café Neve – we didn’t try the food here, but this busy little café serves up good flat whites
Rainforest Motel – the spectacular sunny dry weather and almost complete lack of sandflies enabled us to have our first ever West Coast picnic. So nice was the day that we had lunch, and then later, happy hour, at a picnic table on the grounds of our motel. Beautiful.
Photos here:
We left Glenorchy the way we had come, this time under a blanket of damp gloom; low clouds, bizarre and moody, severing the tops of those glorious mountains one minute, teasing us with blue sky the next. Passing through Queenstown yet again we called in at the noisy Café Society in the Five Mile shopping center for unsatisfying tepid flat whites, my request for ‘extra hot’ falling on deaf ears.
Back in the car we passed winery after winery, realizing that we’d not given them sufficient attention (!).
We stopped at Jackson Orchards, questioning our sanity as we stood in the freezing cold eating one last cup of Cromwell fruit ice cream. We watched a group of Chinese visitors get out of their van and pounce on the Pacific Rose apples, scooping up bags full; washing and tucking in on the spot, one member of the party returning a second time for yet another bag before driving on.
Then it was on towards Albert Town, formerly a tiny settlement, now a full on Boom Town, its growth since our last visit discombobulating, feeling very much like a suburb of Wanaka.
We drove alongside beautiful Lake Hawea and Lake Wanaka, the skies now clear, the views incredible, working our way up the lush West Coast. The short walk to the Blue Pools (30 minute return) was impossible to resist despite having done it many times; the river crossing delayed a few minutes by a film crew and their drone.
The notoriously wet West Coast was mercifully dry, we could actually see the tops of the mountains as we worked our way through the tunnel of green; a feast for the eyes. But with 182 kilometers still to go at 2 pm, we were forced to curtail the photo stops.
We made a very brief stop at Bruce Bay, but retreated to the car the minute the sandflies found us, in awe of a couple with a small child leisurely exploring the beach – all wearing shorts! Several optimistic sandflies clung to the car windows as we fled; persistently hanging on for a couple of miles.
It had taken us over eight hours, but as we approached Fox Glacier, we were chuffed to see Aoraki Mount Cook on full display in the waning daylight.
Why Fox Glacier?
1) We needed a place to break up the journey between Glenorchy and Cape Foulwind. 2) Staying in Fox instead of Franz Josef shortened a very long drive day by close to an hour, and 3) in all our visits to the West Coast we had yet to explore the tracks at Gillespies Beach.
Our Accommodation:
http://www.rainforestmotel.co.nz/
Our unit was a bit spartan, but spacious, warm and relatively well equipped (NZ $145 per night). The shower was powerful, the hot water plentiful, the bed too low and too soft for our tastes, the proprietor helpful, Alice the cat friendly.
We were in a block of four units, flanked on either side by a large group of Malaysians. All 10-12 would gather nightly for dinner in one unit. We initially had concerns about noise since we were smack dab in the middle of their group, but our fears were unfounded. Our stay was peaceful. Unfortunately, we had major issues with the WiFi (first time this trip). Undoubtedly due to the number of people surrounding us, each clutching a device.
What we did during our stay in Fox Glacier:
We began our only full day by driving out to Lake Matheson, where we walked to the Jetty Viewpoint and then continued on the Lake Circuit (2.7 miles, 90 minute loop). Lake Matheson is known for its reflections of Aoraki Mount Cook (best viewed at dawn and dusk on clear days), but today, despite the clear skies, the views from Jetty Viewpoint were adversely affected by the wind, which caused ripples in the water. However, we did see lovely reflections later in the walk, from the View of Views (top end of the lake) and Reflection Island.
We explored Gillespies Beach – two of the tracks were closed due to flooding and a damaged bridge, so we walked to the lagoon - a bit of a trudge due to the deep sand, ankle-breaking round rocks and masses of thirsty sandflies – but…the views to the mountains were spectacular (2.7 miles, 90 minutes return, only saw two other people). We continued walking to the bridge, an entire section of which we’d seen earlier near the beach – presumably relocated by either cyclone Fehi or Gita.
We drove the Glacier View Access Road and walked to the overlook, lovely views, and a fascinating tree covered in fungi – 1/2 mile, 15 minute return.
We drove out to Fox Glacier where we walked to the terminal face – the trail steep – the sun blinding (!) the helicopters going nuts overhead, taking full advantage of the fantastic weather (2.18 miles return, 1:15). The track was harder than we remembered; we later learned from Andy (motel proprietor) that it was newly built, having been damaged during one of the cyclones. He also mentioned that some 800 tourists had been stranded in Haast for days - without cell phone coverage - (oh, the horror!) - but with plentiful beer.
Where we ate, imbibed and caffeinated:
With a population of 306, there’s not a huge number of food options in Fox Glacier, but more than one might expect.
The Last Kitchen – we had a pretty good dinner here, fish of the day for Bill (cod), falafel plate for me, glass of wine for both, a bit expensive (NZ $84).
Matheson Café (Lake Matheson) – nice flat whites with incredible views
https://www.lakematheson.com/
Indian Kitchen – owned by the same people who operate The Last Kitchen (next door) – I suspect they share said kitchen. We had a good dinner here – Chicken Tikka Masala, Paneer Tikka Masala and garlic naan (which unfortunately didn’t make it to the table hot) – NZ $47, no drinks. All things considered, a good option in Fox Glacier.
Café Neve – we didn’t try the food here, but this busy little café serves up good flat whites
Rainforest Motel – the spectacular sunny dry weather and almost complete lack of sandflies enabled us to have our first ever West Coast picnic. So nice was the day that we had lunch, and then later, happy hour, at a picnic table on the grounds of our motel. Beautiful.
Photos here:
To be continued...
Jul 26th, 2018 | 04:14 AM
#28
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,174
Likes: 83
Travel Day/Fox Glacier to Cape Foulwind:
We left Fox Glacier, headed north, detouring at Franz Josef to walk the short track to the viewpoint (30 minute return), which like Fox Glacier, had been reconfigured since Fehi and Gita blew through. We were surprised to see an Indian restaurant in Franz Josef, evidently a new addition since our last visit.
The day was overcast, the landslips abundant, road construction seemingly everywhere.
We took a Tip Top break at a milk store in Whataroa, Hokey Pokey for me, vanilla for Bill. Whataroa is home to New Zealand’s only White Heron nesting site. Tours are offered, accessible only by boat. Maybe next time.
White Heron Sanctury Tours
It began to rain as we approached Hari Hari, the landscape dotted with uprooted trees, presumably more work of Fehi and Gita.
We drove through Hokitika, the only West Coast town center located by a beach, once again amazed at how much it had grown in our absence, and a bit wistful that we’d not planned to stay at least a night.
As we neared Greymouth, we came upon another massive bridge project, rivaling that of Queenstown; a new two lane bridge is being built downstream of the existing one lane Taramakau Bridge (which shares the road with a railway track oddly enough). The new bridge will result in the realignment of a section of SH 6.
https://www.nzta.govt.nz/assets/proj...e-20171221.pdf
We made a lunch stop in Greymouth, Bill driving to Bonzai Café (a long time favorite) as if he’d just been there yesterday. Oh how I wish I had his sense of direction! We shared a darn good pizza (NZ $25) and then picked up a few groceries before continuing our drive north.
Having visited Punakaiki (Pancake Rocks) many times, we’d planned to just pass through…but the sudden appearance of the sun convinced us otherwise; we wandered the paved walkway through the stacked limestone rocks once again. How could we not?
https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-re...lowholes-walk/
We continued driving the squiggle-rama that is SH 6, dodging yet more landslips and road work. South of Westport we left the highway, our printed directions leading us west along a series of lonely country roads, Bill asking where on earth I was taking him. Some eight hours after leaving Fox Glacier, we arrived in Cape Foulwind (Taranga Bay).
Why Cape Foulwind?
We wanted to explore Charming Creek Walkway, located 35 km northeast of Westport, yet staying in Westport held no appeal, so I’d scoped out other possibilities, stumbling upon a real gem.
Our Accommodation:
https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/20907514
Wow! Lovely new cottage situated on the property of owner Jude, completely self-contained and private (USD $108 per night). Sparkling clean, upscale and a bit posh, and the most comfortable bed we’d encountered thus far – and that view!
As a bonus the unit has a dishwasher, Netflix and a fabulous patio, but this being the West Coast, the weather was uncooperative and the sandflies were fierce (dozens of them clung to the exterior window – no way were we going out there to feed them!).
The cottage is tethered to the ground with a heavy chain – and a good thing too – one night I worried the ferocious West Coast wind might blow us into the Tasman Sea.
What we did during our one full day in Cape Foulwind:
Despite the pouring rain and utter gloom we drove to the start of the Charming Creek Walkway. The track was underwater, the weather abysmal – we only managed to walk two miles – a miserable slog. We saw not another soul and had not a bit of fun. Best made plans...
https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-re...creek-walkway/
Later in the day, we chased the tiny sliver of sunshine to the Cape Foulwind Walkway managing to cover another two miles (undulating) before the skies re-opened. They don’t call it Foulwind for nothing.
Where we ate, imbibed and caffeinated:
Copper Pot (Westport) – we had an edible, but not particularly good lunch here (once again surprised that so many small towns in New Zealand have Indian restaurants) – Chicken Tikka, forgettable Paneer, garlic naan (NZ $42)
Local boozer – (Westport hotel I failed to note the name of) - beer, cider and pokies, and a friendly group of old folks who asked if we’d be joining their game of 45. We probably should have, might’ve been fun.
Photos here:
We left Fox Glacier, headed north, detouring at Franz Josef to walk the short track to the viewpoint (30 minute return), which like Fox Glacier, had been reconfigured since Fehi and Gita blew through. We were surprised to see an Indian restaurant in Franz Josef, evidently a new addition since our last visit.
The day was overcast, the landslips abundant, road construction seemingly everywhere.
We took a Tip Top break at a milk store in Whataroa, Hokey Pokey for me, vanilla for Bill. Whataroa is home to New Zealand’s only White Heron nesting site. Tours are offered, accessible only by boat. Maybe next time.
White Heron Sanctury Tours
It began to rain as we approached Hari Hari, the landscape dotted with uprooted trees, presumably more work of Fehi and Gita.
We drove through Hokitika, the only West Coast town center located by a beach, once again amazed at how much it had grown in our absence, and a bit wistful that we’d not planned to stay at least a night.
As we neared Greymouth, we came upon another massive bridge project, rivaling that of Queenstown; a new two lane bridge is being built downstream of the existing one lane Taramakau Bridge (which shares the road with a railway track oddly enough). The new bridge will result in the realignment of a section of SH 6.
https://www.nzta.govt.nz/assets/proj...e-20171221.pdf
We made a lunch stop in Greymouth, Bill driving to Bonzai Café (a long time favorite) as if he’d just been there yesterday. Oh how I wish I had his sense of direction! We shared a darn good pizza (NZ $25) and then picked up a few groceries before continuing our drive north.
Having visited Punakaiki (Pancake Rocks) many times, we’d planned to just pass through…but the sudden appearance of the sun convinced us otherwise; we wandered the paved walkway through the stacked limestone rocks once again. How could we not?
https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-re...lowholes-walk/
We continued driving the squiggle-rama that is SH 6, dodging yet more landslips and road work. South of Westport we left the highway, our printed directions leading us west along a series of lonely country roads, Bill asking where on earth I was taking him. Some eight hours after leaving Fox Glacier, we arrived in Cape Foulwind (Taranga Bay).
Why Cape Foulwind?
We wanted to explore Charming Creek Walkway, located 35 km northeast of Westport, yet staying in Westport held no appeal, so I’d scoped out other possibilities, stumbling upon a real gem.
Our Accommodation:
https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/20907514
Wow! Lovely new cottage situated on the property of owner Jude, completely self-contained and private (USD $108 per night). Sparkling clean, upscale and a bit posh, and the most comfortable bed we’d encountered thus far – and that view!
As a bonus the unit has a dishwasher, Netflix and a fabulous patio, but this being the West Coast, the weather was uncooperative and the sandflies were fierce (dozens of them clung to the exterior window – no way were we going out there to feed them!).
The cottage is tethered to the ground with a heavy chain – and a good thing too – one night I worried the ferocious West Coast wind might blow us into the Tasman Sea.
What we did during our one full day in Cape Foulwind:
Despite the pouring rain and utter gloom we drove to the start of the Charming Creek Walkway. The track was underwater, the weather abysmal – we only managed to walk two miles – a miserable slog. We saw not another soul and had not a bit of fun. Best made plans...
https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-re...creek-walkway/
Later in the day, we chased the tiny sliver of sunshine to the Cape Foulwind Walkway managing to cover another two miles (undulating) before the skies re-opened. They don’t call it Foulwind for nothing.
Where we ate, imbibed and caffeinated:
Copper Pot (Westport) – we had an edible, but not particularly good lunch here (once again surprised that so many small towns in New Zealand have Indian restaurants) – Chicken Tikka, forgettable Paneer, garlic naan (NZ $42)
Local boozer – (Westport hotel I failed to note the name of) - beer, cider and pokies, and a friendly group of old folks who asked if we’d be joining their game of 45. We probably should have, might’ve been fun.
Photos here:
To be continued...
