NZ trip report - October 2006
Nov 8th, 2006, 09:47 AM
#21
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Hi GP, should be fine - they seem pretty efficient at unloading the bags. There is a shuttle bus between the 2 terminals but it is only about 15 minutes walk, at most. The internal flights require you to check in 30 minutes before the flight and there is little security check to delay you.
Be aware of the tight bio-security entering NZ, our bags were scanned on arrival for illicit plant or food products and the entry forms asked all sorts of questions about any food you may have brought in, if you had visited a farm, were bringing in camping equipment, etc. We had to declare our hiking boots. We were wearing these and had given them a good cleaning before we set off. They glanced at them, saw they were clean and waved us through. Just be careful what you bring in.
Be aware of the tight bio-security entering NZ, our bags were scanned on arrival for illicit plant or food products and the entry forms asked all sorts of questions about any food you may have brought in, if you had visited a farm, were bringing in camping equipment, etc. We had to declare our hiking boots. We were wearing these and had given them a good cleaning before we set off. They glanced at them, saw they were clean and waved us through. Just be careful what you bring in.
Nov 9th, 2006, 12:51 AM
#22
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South Coast and Catlins
It was sunny but windy, as we carried on along the Southern Scenic route from Riverton. We decided to visit Queens Park in Invercargill for a while, which has some nice formal gardens, rhododendrons and azaleas, a small pets corner and aviary, a museum and art gallery and a couple of cafes. We saw the tuatara, rare lizard like creatures housed in an enclosure at the museum and spent an hour or so looking round the gardens before continuing along the route. The weather had started to deteriorate and by the time we got to Fortrose it was blowing a gale with horizontal rain. We stopped at what looked like a small beach cafe and found it was serving rather good looking meals, though we only wanted a snack at that point.
We followed the Catlins Coastal Route, 13 km of which is still gravel road, though we found these well maintained and no problem, as long as you don't drive too fast. We took a side road to the lighthouse at Waipapa Point but the wind was so strong we could barely stand. At Curio Bay, the tide was in, covering most of the petrified forest, cathedral caves are only accessible at low tide and the Jack's blow hole path was closed for lambing. This was my low point, I'd felt a bit of an anti-climax after the boat trips on the Sounds and the weather didn't help. I felt a long way from home and also missing my 14 month old grandson - my daughter sent me a text to say she'd checked our house, watered our plants and he'd searched the house, looking for us (sob!).
The Catlins Road moved away from the coast and wound up and down though hilly landscape. The rain eased a bit, so we stopped off to take the short walk to MacLean's falls, a track through a forest full of tree ferns and mosses to an impressive waterfall. By the time we got to Nugget Point, the cloud had cleared and the sun came through. We checked into Nugget Lodge and felt much cheered by the better weather and our next 2 nights accommodations with beautiful beach views. We were advised to head up to the hide at Roaring Bay to see the yellow eyed penguins coming back to their nests and there, right on cue, 3 of the little creatures waddled up the beach, braying like donkeys and heading up to their nests. After we'd eaten at kaka Point, we sat in our apartment, admiring the view and saw a sea lion arrive on the beach, near the apartment.
The next day was sunny and bright. We did the short drive to Cannibal Bay, as we were told this was a good area to see sea lions. We walked along Cannibal Bay and over the path to the huge sweep of Surat Bay but didn't see any. It was as we made our way back that we saw a huge male sea lion, dozing on the beach. We stood and watched him for sometime, and he didn't seem bothered by our presence. Occasionally he would open one eye to check us out, yawn and flip some sand over his back. After a while a small group of people arrived on the beach and also stopped to look at the sea lion. Eventually, almost reluctantly, he got up, yawned and stretched for a while and made his way back to the sea. We drove back to the lodge, left the car and set off to walk to Nugget Point, about 90 minutes each way along the gravel road, passing pleasant beaches fringed with yellow lupins. At the lighthouse there was a viewing platform over the Nuggets, huge lumps of rock in the endless turquoise sea. These were home for fur seals, sea lions and sea birds and we were glad we'd brought our binoculars. On the way back we called again at Roaring Bay, to see another penguin returning home.
It was sunny but windy, as we carried on along the Southern Scenic route from Riverton. We decided to visit Queens Park in Invercargill for a while, which has some nice formal gardens, rhododendrons and azaleas, a small pets corner and aviary, a museum and art gallery and a couple of cafes. We saw the tuatara, rare lizard like creatures housed in an enclosure at the museum and spent an hour or so looking round the gardens before continuing along the route. The weather had started to deteriorate and by the time we got to Fortrose it was blowing a gale with horizontal rain. We stopped at what looked like a small beach cafe and found it was serving rather good looking meals, though we only wanted a snack at that point.
We followed the Catlins Coastal Route, 13 km of which is still gravel road, though we found these well maintained and no problem, as long as you don't drive too fast. We took a side road to the lighthouse at Waipapa Point but the wind was so strong we could barely stand. At Curio Bay, the tide was in, covering most of the petrified forest, cathedral caves are only accessible at low tide and the Jack's blow hole path was closed for lambing. This was my low point, I'd felt a bit of an anti-climax after the boat trips on the Sounds and the weather didn't help. I felt a long way from home and also missing my 14 month old grandson - my daughter sent me a text to say she'd checked our house, watered our plants and he'd searched the house, looking for us (sob!).
The Catlins Road moved away from the coast and wound up and down though hilly landscape. The rain eased a bit, so we stopped off to take the short walk to MacLean's falls, a track through a forest full of tree ferns and mosses to an impressive waterfall. By the time we got to Nugget Point, the cloud had cleared and the sun came through. We checked into Nugget Lodge and felt much cheered by the better weather and our next 2 nights accommodations with beautiful beach views. We were advised to head up to the hide at Roaring Bay to see the yellow eyed penguins coming back to their nests and there, right on cue, 3 of the little creatures waddled up the beach, braying like donkeys and heading up to their nests. After we'd eaten at kaka Point, we sat in our apartment, admiring the view and saw a sea lion arrive on the beach, near the apartment.
The next day was sunny and bright. We did the short drive to Cannibal Bay, as we were told this was a good area to see sea lions. We walked along Cannibal Bay and over the path to the huge sweep of Surat Bay but didn't see any. It was as we made our way back that we saw a huge male sea lion, dozing on the beach. We stood and watched him for sometime, and he didn't seem bothered by our presence. Occasionally he would open one eye to check us out, yawn and flip some sand over his back. After a while a small group of people arrived on the beach and also stopped to look at the sea lion. Eventually, almost reluctantly, he got up, yawned and stretched for a while and made his way back to the sea. We drove back to the lodge, left the car and set off to walk to Nugget Point, about 90 minutes each way along the gravel road, passing pleasant beaches fringed with yellow lupins. At the lighthouse there was a viewing platform over the Nuggets, huge lumps of rock in the endless turquoise sea. These were home for fur seals, sea lions and sea birds and we were glad we'd brought our binoculars. On the way back we called again at Roaring Bay, to see another penguin returning home.
Nov 10th, 2006, 03:39 AM
#23
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Otago Peninsula
We checked out of Nugget Lodge and headed towards Dunedin, where we spent several hours in the large Botanic Gardens. The rock garden was full of spring flowers and the azaleas in the rhododendron dell were a blaze of colour and fantastic scent. We then headed towards Otago Peninsula, the main peninsula road winding it's way right on the northern shore - drive too fast and you could end up in the water! We checked into our B&B in the small village of Portobello and headed along towards the Albatross centre at the end of the peninsula but the weather had deteriorated again by then. We looked round the visitor centre, saw some albatrosses flying in the distance and seabirds nesting on the cliffs but the wind was strong and bitterly cold and it started raining again, so we didn't hang about.
Next morning we explored the Peninsula further, on a more pleasant day. We drove via the upper road for some beautiful views and along some of the gravel roads on the other side of the peninsula, where large shallow inlets were the home to black swans and wading birds. We ended up at Allan's Bay, where we walked along the huge deserted sandy bay and saw another sea lion and penguin tracks heading off the beach.
Early afternoon we visited Lanarch Castle, not really a castle but a rather fine house, built in 1871. We took the free guided tour, rather than wandering around on our own and were glad we did. The guide was interesting and amusing and told us the story of the Lanarch family - with would make a good TV dramatisation, rivaling the Forsyte Saga! The site for the house was chosen for it's views and from the tower on the roof there is a fantastic 360 degree view of the Otago peninsula. The gardens are also worth seeing, with unusual planting and terrific views. We had lunch in the cafe, which was originally the ballroom built for one of the daughter's 21st birthdays. It is possible to stay at the castle and we saw the accommodation block which looked like it had great views.
We also paid a short visit to Glenfalloch Woodland garden, a small but pretty informal garden filled with rhododendrons and azaleas. There was a small cafe and a larger function room where there appeared to be a wedding celebration taking place - it must have made a pretty backdrop for their wedding pictures.
We checked out of Nugget Lodge and headed towards Dunedin, where we spent several hours in the large Botanic Gardens. The rock garden was full of spring flowers and the azaleas in the rhododendron dell were a blaze of colour and fantastic scent. We then headed towards Otago Peninsula, the main peninsula road winding it's way right on the northern shore - drive too fast and you could end up in the water! We checked into our B&B in the small village of Portobello and headed along towards the Albatross centre at the end of the peninsula but the weather had deteriorated again by then. We looked round the visitor centre, saw some albatrosses flying in the distance and seabirds nesting on the cliffs but the wind was strong and bitterly cold and it started raining again, so we didn't hang about.
Next morning we explored the Peninsula further, on a more pleasant day. We drove via the upper road for some beautiful views and along some of the gravel roads on the other side of the peninsula, where large shallow inlets were the home to black swans and wading birds. We ended up at Allan's Bay, where we walked along the huge deserted sandy bay and saw another sea lion and penguin tracks heading off the beach.
Early afternoon we visited Lanarch Castle, not really a castle but a rather fine house, built in 1871. We took the free guided tour, rather than wandering around on our own and were glad we did. The guide was interesting and amusing and told us the story of the Lanarch family - with would make a good TV dramatisation, rivaling the Forsyte Saga! The site for the house was chosen for it's views and from the tower on the roof there is a fantastic 360 degree view of the Otago peninsula. The gardens are also worth seeing, with unusual planting and terrific views. We had lunch in the cafe, which was originally the ballroom built for one of the daughter's 21st birthdays. It is possible to stay at the castle and we saw the accommodation block which looked like it had great views.
We also paid a short visit to Glenfalloch Woodland garden, a small but pretty informal garden filled with rhododendrons and azaleas. There was a small cafe and a larger function room where there appeared to be a wedding celebration taking place - it must have made a pretty backdrop for their wedding pictures.
Nov 10th, 2006, 03:45 AM
#24
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Back to North Island and the Bay of Islands
The next day we had a morning flight from Dunedin back to Auckland. We hadn't realised it was labour Day and a public holiday that Monday, the roads were empty and the garages shut, so we were unable to refuel the hire car before dropping it off. There was no-one at the Thrifty desk either and as yet, we have not been charged for the fuel. The flight took about 90 minutes and at Auckland a Thrifty representative was waiting for us to take us to their office at the international terminal. We set off in hire car number two, not checking the map carefully but following signs "north". The road did go north but deposited us in the sprawl of Auckland, near the city centre with little signposting to guide us. we took over an hour to get clear of Auckland and about 4 hours to get to Russell. The traffic going in the opposite direction looked horrendous as trippers returned to Auckland after the holiday weekend break. We crossed the passenger ferry from Opua and booked into the Triton Suites Motel, overlooking Russell.
Russell is a small and pretty town with old (by NZ standard) white wooden colonial style buildings. There are few restaurants, shops and a hotel overlooking the seafront and the road parallel to it has a few more but it's all very low key and unspoiled. There is a small wooden pier where boat trips and the passenger ferries to Paihia go from. While were in Paihia we didn't use our hire car - we'd considered driving up to the far north of the island and visiting 90 mile beach but decided we'd done enough driving and we'd prefer to spend a few days relaxing.
The next morning we walked up Flagstaff Hill, where we had a terrific 360 degree view over the Bay of Islands, then back through paths through the trees. We then took the passenger ferry over to Paihia which, though not a huge place, is a much more touristy, catering for coach tourists and offering all manner of boat trips. From the centre of Paihia it was about half an hours walk to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds, where we spent an interesting afternoon looking round the Treaty House, the Maori Canoe and Meeting house and walking along the coastal path. I found the wooden carvings in the meeting house quite fascinating.
We wanted to do some sort of boat trip, so the next day we booked a half day trip to Hole in the Rock, a rocky archway that the boats go through, if the sea is calm enough. The boat trip passed various little islands and pretty beaches in the calmer water of the bay. In one of these calm bays we spotted several dolphins, some of them swimming right up alongside the boat. Everyone snapped away, trying to get pictures - most of mine are of the top of fins, vanishing under the water!
The next day we had a morning flight from Dunedin back to Auckland. We hadn't realised it was labour Day and a public holiday that Monday, the roads were empty and the garages shut, so we were unable to refuel the hire car before dropping it off. There was no-one at the Thrifty desk either and as yet, we have not been charged for the fuel. The flight took about 90 minutes and at Auckland a Thrifty representative was waiting for us to take us to their office at the international terminal. We set off in hire car number two, not checking the map carefully but following signs "north". The road did go north but deposited us in the sprawl of Auckland, near the city centre with little signposting to guide us. we took over an hour to get clear of Auckland and about 4 hours to get to Russell. The traffic going in the opposite direction looked horrendous as trippers returned to Auckland after the holiday weekend break. We crossed the passenger ferry from Opua and booked into the Triton Suites Motel, overlooking Russell.
Russell is a small and pretty town with old (by NZ standard) white wooden colonial style buildings. There are few restaurants, shops and a hotel overlooking the seafront and the road parallel to it has a few more but it's all very low key and unspoiled. There is a small wooden pier where boat trips and the passenger ferries to Paihia go from. While were in Paihia we didn't use our hire car - we'd considered driving up to the far north of the island and visiting 90 mile beach but decided we'd done enough driving and we'd prefer to spend a few days relaxing.
The next morning we walked up Flagstaff Hill, where we had a terrific 360 degree view over the Bay of Islands, then back through paths through the trees. We then took the passenger ferry over to Paihia which, though not a huge place, is a much more touristy, catering for coach tourists and offering all manner of boat trips. From the centre of Paihia it was about half an hours walk to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds, where we spent an interesting afternoon looking round the Treaty House, the Maori Canoe and Meeting house and walking along the coastal path. I found the wooden carvings in the meeting house quite fascinating.
We wanted to do some sort of boat trip, so the next day we booked a half day trip to Hole in the Rock, a rocky archway that the boats go through, if the sea is calm enough. The boat trip passed various little islands and pretty beaches in the calmer water of the bay. In one of these calm bays we spotted several dolphins, some of them swimming right up alongside the boat. Everyone snapped away, trying to get pictures - most of mine are of the top of fins, vanishing under the water!
Nov 12th, 2006, 09:12 AM
#25
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Back to Auckland and home
We drove back towards Auckland on our last full day, taking the winding coastal route out of Russell, instead of the more direct route via the ferry to Opua. It was a slow but pretty drive, winding through forest and passing quiet sheltered coves. We briefly rejoined the main highway number 1, then headed left again towards Matapouri, a lovely curving sheltered bay with pale sand and shells. We stopped for a while to walk along the beautiful sandy beach before continuing towards Whangarei. We saw the sign for Whangarei Falls, and stopped to take the short circular walk to the impressive waterfall before driving into the town. We parked near the yacht basin, an attractive, redeveloped area with shops and cafes, where we stopped for lunch. We continued along highway number 1 before turning off onto the 16 at Wellsford, a scenic route that went towards the west coast. There was little difference in distance, this road was more slow and winding but there was less traffic. We drove through rolling countryside and past vineyards and unfortunately hit the outskirts of Auckland just after 5pm and got stuck in rush hour traffic. By the time we got to the Jet Inn, we didn't feel like venturing out again, so just ate our evening meal in the hotel restaurant.
On our last morning, though our flight wasn't until 3pm, we didn't want to risk driving to far or getting stuck in traffic. We decided to pay a short visit to Auckland Botanic gardens, a few miles from the airport. The gardens cover a huge area, so we just had time to explore a little of it. There was a lot of native planting and a particularly colourful African garden. I noticed many plants growing here (and in North Island generally) that wouldn't survive the winter in the UK. We also noticed how much difference there was from the South Island, both the type of plants and the difference in growth - the roses, for example, were in tight bud in South Island but were already in flower here.
All too soon we headed back to the airport to board our long and boring flights back to the UK, which were thankfully without problems. It took me several days to adjust back to UK time, not being helped by picking up a bad head cold, probably from the flight back. We loved the trip and have felt we have seen a good variety of New Zealand's landscapes - but with more than enough we haven't seen for any future trip.
I hope I haven't bored anyone with what I realise has become a rather long report. I've kept the accommodation and restaurant details separate to avoid it being even longer:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34895445
A selection of my trip photographs are on here:
http://www.worldisround.com/articles/317654/index.html
We drove back towards Auckland on our last full day, taking the winding coastal route out of Russell, instead of the more direct route via the ferry to Opua. It was a slow but pretty drive, winding through forest and passing quiet sheltered coves. We briefly rejoined the main highway number 1, then headed left again towards Matapouri, a lovely curving sheltered bay with pale sand and shells. We stopped for a while to walk along the beautiful sandy beach before continuing towards Whangarei. We saw the sign for Whangarei Falls, and stopped to take the short circular walk to the impressive waterfall before driving into the town. We parked near the yacht basin, an attractive, redeveloped area with shops and cafes, where we stopped for lunch. We continued along highway number 1 before turning off onto the 16 at Wellsford, a scenic route that went towards the west coast. There was little difference in distance, this road was more slow and winding but there was less traffic. We drove through rolling countryside and past vineyards and unfortunately hit the outskirts of Auckland just after 5pm and got stuck in rush hour traffic. By the time we got to the Jet Inn, we didn't feel like venturing out again, so just ate our evening meal in the hotel restaurant.
On our last morning, though our flight wasn't until 3pm, we didn't want to risk driving to far or getting stuck in traffic. We decided to pay a short visit to Auckland Botanic gardens, a few miles from the airport. The gardens cover a huge area, so we just had time to explore a little of it. There was a lot of native planting and a particularly colourful African garden. I noticed many plants growing here (and in North Island generally) that wouldn't survive the winter in the UK. We also noticed how much difference there was from the South Island, both the type of plants and the difference in growth - the roses, for example, were in tight bud in South Island but were already in flower here.
All too soon we headed back to the airport to board our long and boring flights back to the UK, which were thankfully without problems. It took me several days to adjust back to UK time, not being helped by picking up a bad head cold, probably from the flight back. We loved the trip and have felt we have seen a good variety of New Zealand's landscapes - but with more than enough we haven't seen for any future trip.
I hope I haven't bored anyone with what I realise has become a rather long report. I've kept the accommodation and restaurant details separate to avoid it being even longer:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34895445
A selection of my trip photographs are on here:
http://www.worldisround.com/articles/317654/index.html
Jan 5th, 2007, 10:13 PM
#28
The road that is called "Catlins Heritage trail" is mostly gravel.
It's not a bad road, just slower going.
http://www.catlins.org.nz/heritage_trail.htm
It's not a bad road, just slower going.
http://www.catlins.org.nz/heritage_trail.htm
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