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NZ trip report - October 2006

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NZ trip report - October 2006

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Old Nov 6th, 2006, 03:16 AM
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NZ trip report - October 2006

The Journey - turning a mishap into an opportunity

We booked with Singapore Airlines, traveling from Manchester to Auckland via Singapore. Less than 48 hours before our flight, I checked to see if I could check-in online, only to find that the flight from Singapore to Auckland had been rescheduled leaving us with 15, instead of 3 hours in Singapore. This meant that instead of arriving at 11.30 pm, we would arrive at 11.30 the next morning, missing the first night at the airport hotel and arriving a couple of hours before our internal flight to Rotorua.

Fortunately I was able to cancel the airport hotel without cost and as the hand baggage size restrictions had just recently been eased, we were able to pack some lighter clothing and sandals into our had luggage in anticipation of a day in Singapore. Had we only found out when we arrived at the airport, it would have been much more of a problem. When we got to the airport, we complained (very politely) and were initially told that as it was not a delay but a reschedule, they did not have to provide anything for us. I explained that we'd not been told of the change and had needed to cancel a hotel and they said they would see what they could do. When we arrived at Singapore, my name was called on the plane and we were given a voucher for a hotel room and meals for the day, with transport there and back. We went to the hotel (which was half way between the airport and city) and checked in and found we had a spacious suite. We had some breakfast and managed a few hours sleep before lunch before getting a taxi to the Botanic gardens. We had a few hours to wander round the gardens an visit the orchid gardens, which are quite spectacular. Singapore was hot, sticky and there was a thick smog, apparently due to forest fires in Indonesia, we later learned that the pollution index reached record levels that day. We were glad to be able to go back to the room to get a shower and change before our 2nd flight.
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Old Nov 6th, 2006, 03:17 AM
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Rotorua

Fortunately our flight was on time as we needed to collect our luggage, get from the international to the domestic terminal and check-in for our short flight to Rotorua - it was just as well I hadn't booked the morning flight, as I'd originally planned. After the 747, the little 19 seater aircraft was quite novel and we soon completed the short hop to Rotorua, where we were able to pick up a minibus direct to the Regal Palms Motel.

The highlight was our visit to the thermal village of Whakarewarewa. The entry price included a guided tour and a Maori cultural performance and you were then free to wander the village. The tour was fascinating giving an insight into how the Maori people lived (and still do) amongst the steaming vents and boiling pools. We saw wooden lined boxes over steam vents which were used as slow cookers and the hot water springs used to fill communal baths. At the short performance, traditional Maori songs and dances were performed. The children from the village play group joined in parts of the performance, ensuring that the traditions continued with the next generation.
We also enjoyed a pleasant to stroll by the lake front and the government gardens, which were very colourful with bright spring flowers.
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Old Nov 6th, 2006, 03:18 AM
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Arthur's Pass

After an internal flight from Rotorua to Christchurch, we picked up our hire car and headed towards Arthur's Pass. The view of the snow capped mountains as we approached was stunning. We arrived at the Wilderness Lodge mid afternoon and decided to follow one on the way-marked tracks for a couple of hours walk, rather than go on the guided tour of the sheep farm - my other half declaring that his only interest in sheep was on a plate!

That evening a slide show had been planned at the lodge but as the sky was unexpectedly clear, we were asked if we would like to go star gazing instead. We wrapped up warmly and walked with flashlights for about 5 minutes, away from the lights of the lodge. Wow! I have never seen so many or such bright stars. The Milky Way was clearer than I've ever seen it, we had our first glimpse of the Southern Cross and we even saw a shooting star.

The next morning we witnessed a most beautiful dawn, where the fist rays of the sun turned the snowy mountain peaks pink. After beakfast the weather was starting to deteriorate. Gale force winds and showers were forecast, so after a brief stop at the visitor centre at Arthur's Pass village and at the view point at the top of the pass, where we encountered our first Kea, we headed down to the west coast.
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Old Nov 6th, 2006, 03:25 AM
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Enjoying your report Maria. Glad to hear Singapore Air took care of you.
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Old Nov 6th, 2006, 06:27 AM
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Go, girl, go!!
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Old Nov 6th, 2006, 10:13 AM
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West coast to Wanaka

From Arthur's Pass, we headed down to the coast, through rain, grey cloud and with a bitterly cold wind. We'd decided to first head north as far as Pancake Rocks, passing rugged coastline with huge breaking waves that made the air misty with spray. We arrived at Pancake Rocks around high tide and the clouds were clearing. We were treated to spectacular views of the blow holes making it difficult to take photographs without getting drenched in salty spray.

I didn't think much of Hokitika but perhaps it was partly that by the time we got into the town, everything was shut and this gave it a deserted frontier town feel. The grey sand beach was strewn with drift wood and looked quite wild in the windy, wet weather.

We headed south towards Franz Josef on a damp morning, with low cloud and occasional drizzle. The road wound through thick forests and we stopped occasionally to take pictures at picnic areas by various still, reflective lakes. At least we seemed sheltered from the wind. We called in at the visitor centre at Franz Josef before following the short walk to the glacier face - or as near to it as you could get without a guided tour. Unfortunately with the low cloud and drizzle the view wasn't very spectacular but it was still worth the walk. Waterfalls ran down the steep sided valley and it was amazing to see the rocks, worn smooth by the glacier.

The next day was also low cloud, so we stopped only briefly at the Fox Glacier viewpoint before heading for Lake Matheson. We walked the hour and a half trail around the lake. Although the mountains were in cloud and there were no mirrored reflections on the lake, it was still a pleasant walk through forest full of tree ferns and mosses. The other thing we noticed were the birds - we saw and heard many birds unfamiliar to us, we identified the bell bird with it's musical song and the tui with it's strange calls but I never did get round to buying a guide book to identify them all.

At Haast, the road turned east, following the wide valley of the Haast river. The road rose over the mountain pass and we stopped several times to see waterfalls - Thunder falls, Fantail Falls and the falls beneath the bridge at the Gates of Haast. We followed the short trail over a rickety looking bridge to the very blue, blue pools. As started to come back down the pass, we came out of the cloud and into the sunshine. We stopped the car to take pictures as we came down to Lake Wanaka only to find that though the sun was shining, it was blowing a gale. We followed the road past Lake Hawea and on into Wanaka where we booked into the Moorings to find we had a wonderful Lake view.
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Old Nov 6th, 2006, 02:39 PM
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Great trip report, Maria - keep it coming!

Lee Ann
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Old Nov 6th, 2006, 03:08 PM
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Good report Maria:

I did this trip in March of this year.

Iam waitng to hear about Queenstown,Arrowhead (maybe you even did the Bungee Jump!!

I am sure you went to Milford Sound and then to Mount Cook on your way to Christchurch.

Did you stop off at the Church of Good Shepard.?

Keep it coming ,I am anxious to read about your adventure.

Percy
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Old Nov 6th, 2006, 04:26 PM
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Percy, click on Maria's name and check out her photos. She has some fabulous ones of Milford Sound.

Shame about the weather at the glaciers, but you can't have the good weather fair all the time.
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Old Nov 6th, 2006, 08:20 PM
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Thanks mlgb I will do that and view the pictures


Percy
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Old Nov 7th, 2006, 02:24 AM
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Wanaka to Te Anau

At last it was a sunny and fairly warm day, so we left the car for the day and joined various of the short local walking trails together. We noticed how different the vegetation was here, with more scrubby plants, broom, cabbage trees, pine and willows. We walked along the eastern lake shore to the Lake Outlet walk by the side of the Clutha river, then via roads though the outskirts Albert Town and back into Wanaka past Puzzling World - probably about 10 miles altogether. By the time we got back to Wanaka it had clouded up again and that evening we heard thunder as the rain started again.

The next day we checked out and headed towards Te Anau with more showers of rain, passing orchards and vineyards before heading along the fast flowing Kawarau river valley. We saw the sign for the AJ Hackett bungy jump and decided to go and have a look. We saw several brave/mad jumpers leap off the bridge and dive towards the icy water below - even the thought of it turns my stomach! One guy didn't go through with his jump and I can sympathise with him - nothing would have enticed me to jump off that bridge! Once we'd had enough second hand adrenalin, we headed on to Arrowtown and spent a pleasant hour or so wandering round the gift shops in the interesting little gold mining town and grabbing some coffee and rather good carrot cake at one of the cafes.

When we arrived at Queenstown it was pouring rain with a gusty wind and low cloud. We headed past all the outdoor shops, advertising all manner of adventure sports and on to the lake front. I don't think we saw the place at it's best but didn't regret not planning to stay there. We walked along the lake front and round to the pleasant gardens and the rain started to ease.

As we headed towards Te Anau, the cloud started to break. We stopped at Kingston and photographed the steam train in the sidings near the station. As we drove on along the road, we saw steam in the distance and realised the train was on it's way are were lucky enough to see the Kingston Flyer in full steam. The sun broke through as we drove through lush green meadows full of grazing sheep with snow capped mountains on almost every horizon and we noticed how clear the air was. We arrived in Te Anau late afternoon in full but cool sunshine and checked into the Campbell Autolodge with wonderful lake views. We explored the small town with it's tourist shops and restaurants and were struck by the number of flower beds full of colourful spring flowers that brightened up the town. We walked round the park at the back of the town and along the landscaped lake front, with some huge eucalyptus trees and thought it a much more pleasant place to stay than Queenstown.
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Old Nov 7th, 2006, 07:32 PM
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Apparently that Bungee jump at Arrowtown
is the same one that Tiger Woods did this past year!!!!

I agree it is scary jumping off the bridge with water down below.

I just stood on the side platform and took pictures of the people jumping !

Yes, it is too bad you got to Queenstown in pouring rain , because it is a nice place to walk about downtown.

Enjoying your report, keep it up

Thanks
Percy

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Old Nov 8th, 2006, 01:57 AM
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I seem to be having trouble adding the next part
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Old Nov 8th, 2006, 02:06 AM
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Something strange happening here, if the next part appears twice, I apologise in advance!
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Old Nov 8th, 2006, 02:08 AM
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Milford Sound

We'd been reading one of the leaflets about the Milford Road and found that until November, it is compulsory to carry snow chains and you could get a heavy fine for not doing so. We checked at the motel reception and they confirmed this and told us we could hire some at any local garage - which we did for $25, despite my now growing concern about the conditions we might find on the road! We set off about 9am, planning to drive more or less straight to Milford sound, then take our time on the return journey. It had clouded overnight but the cloud looked like it might break as we drove, at first through a wide valley, then climbing up into the mountains. We stopped a couple of times for the views but in places, stopping was not permitted due to avalanche risk. We drove up above snow level and at times we saw a few flakes falling from the clouds but the road was totaly clear and safe. We went through the eerie dark tunnel and were thankful that nothing was coming the other way. We came out of the tunnel into a spectacular landscape of snow capped mountains, clouds swirling round the peaks and cascading waterfalls. The road then headed steeply down to Milford Sound and we were there in around 2 hours and in sunshine.

We parked up by a small flock of Keas, hoping our car wouldn't be eaten when we returned and went to the visitor centre to find a boat trip. After looking at the various options on offer, we decided to go on the 12.30 Nature Cruise on the Real Journey's, Milford Wanderer, a large boat with sails, also used for overnight cruises. We also booked the underwater observatory option. This left us with enough time to stop and take pictures, the shallow water at the edge of the Sound was flat calm and gave us some stunning reflections. We also had time for a coffee and snack at the nearby cafe.

The boat trip headed along the Sound and towards the open sea, passing waterfalls rushing down the steep forest covered mountains. We stayed outside at the front of the boat for the views, though it was possible to sit inside with a coffee, if it got too cold. We saw fur seals on the rocks but little other wildlife though the views were spectacular. We were dropped off at the underwater observatory near the end of the cruise and descended the staircase to see the observation windows out into the sound. At the base of these windows were ledges with "gardens" of sea anemones, corals, etc and the rest was open to the sea. We were surprised and the number of colourful fishes swimming into view. We had barely half an hour to look round, before we were told to board the next boat. There must be an agreement between the companies as we were picked up by one of the Red Boats, a huge modern catamaran filled with coach loads of Japanese tourists and nowhere near as nice as the Milford Wanderer.

We were relieved to find the keas had not eaten the car and set off back, up the Milford Road, stopping at various view points, including The Chasm, a waterfall into a deep chasm with weird water sculpted rocks and Mirror Lakes, though they were not still enough for reflections. We arrived back and dropped off the snow chains, which had (thankfully) not been needed.
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Old Nov 8th, 2006, 04:05 AM
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Hi Maria,
What a great trip report. Am enjoying every escapade with you. We are scheduled to fly to Aukland via Singapore on the 11th of December and look forward to reading more of your report before we depart. How were the flights with Singapore Airlines? What special purchases, if any, did you make while visiting? Keep it coming!!
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Old Nov 8th, 2006, 04:31 AM
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Thanks Tyger, the flights were pretty good - we flew 777s from Manchester to Singapore (14 hours) and 747s Singapore to Auckland (10 hours) and in each case we had booked the 2nd from back row, where there are only 2 seats by the window - unfortunately our budget doesn't stretch above economy.

We found the food, service and leg room were quite good. There is a good seat back entertainment system with over 90 channels - unfortunately on our last flight this wasn't working but as we complained we got a US $75 voucher each, that we can use in the mail order section of their shopping magazine (it could be used onboard if we were taking another flight). If anything goes wrong, complain politely and they will respond - those that didn't complain, did not get anything. Hope you have a great trip.
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Old Nov 8th, 2006, 04:35 AM
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Doubtful Sound

It was a beautiful, if cold morning when we left Te Anau and drove to Manapouri, stopping at the viewpoint over the lake where a large boulder acts as a memorial to those that fought the original hydro-electric scheme that would have raised the level of the lake by around 30 metres. We carried on to the Real journey's boarding point at Pearl harbour, too early for the cruise, so parked up and walked through the woods to the lake front at Fraser's Beach. The Lake was calm with crystal clear water and backed by snow clad mountains, it was a fantastic view. We wandered back to the boarding point, with enough time for a coffee and snack before setting off for our cruise at 12.30. High thin cloud was starting to cover the sun by this time.

The cruise started with a 45 minute trip across Lake Manapouri, landing at the vistor centre near the hydo-electric power station (where we were mercilessly attacked by sand flies), then a 40 minute coach trip over the gravel road, built to service the power station. By this point we were in cloud, so our first view of Doubtful sound from the top of the road was not as spectacular as we'd hoped.

We boarded the Fiordland Navigator and were shown to our cabins - we'd opted for a double en-suite, which was compact but comfortable. Shortly after setting off, hot muffins and coffee were served in the lounge and the various safety briefings and itinerary explained. We spent much of the time up on deck, it was cloudy with a few sunny spells but pretty cold on deck, so we were glad of the extra layers of clothing, hats and scarves. We moored in Crooked Arm, where anyone who wished could go kayaking. We opted to go into one of the two tender craft with the nature guide, who took us along the shore and provided lots of interesting information. Back on board the Navigator, hot soup was served and the boat sailed out into the Tasman sea. We passed rocks with a few crested penguins and some fur seals. It was much rougher and windier on the open sea and though we were getting rather cold, we stayed on deck, determined not to miss anything. The boat headed back into the calmer waters of the Sound and we came inside to get ready for our meal.

The buffet meal was excellent and we shared a table with a nice couple, originally from South Africa who now lived on the North island and who were also exploring South island for the first time. After we were all well stuffed, we watched a short slide show about the wildlife of the fiords before retiring to bed.

We heard rain during the night and woke up early for a hearty breakfast at 7am, before going back up on deck. There were clouds swirling round the mountains with a few shafts of sunlight and showers as we headed into one of the sheltered arms of the Sound where still water give misty refections of forest, waterfalls and hanging valleys created by ancient glacial action. The sails on the boat were raised for a while as we sailed back towards the harbour, disembarking around 10.30 for the coach and boat ride back to Pearl harbour, arriving there about midday.

From Manapouri we followed the Southern Scenic route along empty roads, passing pastures full of sheep and lambs before finally arriving at the south coast. We stopped a couple of times to look at the beaches before getting to Riverton and finding our way to Nautical Haven, which overlooked a huge sandy bay. We walked into town, along the beach and across the river which was further than we'd thought and took about an hour. It wasn't exactly an inspiring place and we didn't see anywhere we wanted to eat, so we picked something up from the local supermarket to eat in that night.
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Old Nov 8th, 2006, 06:45 AM
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Hi Maria_H

Great report we leave in 32 days for 2+ weeks on the south island. I have a question about the the short turn around you had in Auckland. I have 2 hours from my scheduled arrival from San Francisco before my internal flight to Dunedin. Can you give me an idea for how long it took you to get throught customs and into the other terminal for the internal flights?

Thank you very much
Have Fun
GP
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Old Nov 8th, 2006, 07:44 AM
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We went from AKL to CHC on arrival, and did the 'turn around' in under 2 hours. It should not be a problem. And if you miss the first flight, which I assume is on AirNZ, there are more later,
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