SnRSeattle

Dear Liz, you wrote to another poster about Carnarvon NP and so I looked it up and it sounds right up our alley--ancient trees, cool rocks (our favorite), interesting Aboriginal art and some hiking, then a great-looking place to come home to at the end of the day (Carnarvon Wilderness Lodge) with ranger-led nocturnal animal spotting as a bonus. Have you stayed there? If so, how did you like it? If not, where would you recommend? How would you advise one to get there--drive for a view of rural Australia, train for ditto or fly because it is really long to drive there from Brisbane? We were thinking of renting a car in Brisbane and driving there, then making our way to a place on the coast and then go to an island for snorkeling (or to ReefSleep for same). We are planning our second (of many, we hope) trip to Oz and looking for interesting things to see and do that are off the main tourist paths (although I understand Carnarvon is very popular!) Thanks for any help you or anyone can give us on this place.

lizF

I have stayed at both the Injune Pub and the Lodge at Carnarvon Gorge. The latter is more comfortable I guess and more expensive BUT to me the Injune Pub wins hands down because it is a bit of Australia which you would not normally see surrounded by other tourists. But that is only my choice and the added attraction of a night animal spotting excursion with someone who knows what they are looking for is a real treat. Therefore for you perhaps I would say the lodge. I have also stayed in a tent in the camp ground of Carnarvon Gorge. Driving is the only way to go really as there are no airfields or stopping off places and also you get to go to the Saphire mines which I enjoyed very much. One thing too to do is to drive somewhere at night because out there the night sky is magnificant and there is nothing to stop the lights of the stars.

Carnarvon is not as popular as you would thing as they do not advertise much because they prefer to keep numbers down. You can drive from Brisbane via Mitchel, Roma, Injune Carnarvon, Emerald and either over to Rockhampton or take the ??? highway to Mackay and up the coast - Peak Downs Hwy I think. There are some nice towns en route i.e. the Public School town of Toowoomba about 1.5 hours west of Brisbane, then on to Dalby and the Darling Downs and the sheep/cotton area of Qld.
From Roma the wild west town you turn north to Injune which is another wild west town where you must have a drink at the pub if nothing else. If you are lucky you will meet some locals and they will invite you to their sheep station if its shearing time. Playing a game of darts with them will win their effection for ever! especially if you let them win. It is another world out there and I love it. There usally are many many many kangaroos wallabies and
Emus which if you are lucky you will not run into them in your car.
Its a special place Carnarvon and one worth the visit.

RalphR

Been to Carnarvon Gorge a couple of times staying at the Wilderness Lodge. We liked it so much the first time, we extended our stay an extra night...5 in total. We stayed in Roma on the drive out from Brisbane.

Keep in mind, the only way to see the gorge is to hike. Looking at my map, the Lodge is about 2 km from entrance to the gorge. (The Lodge should provide transport if you have none.) From the entry point, it's 3.6 km (~ 2 miles) level walk to Moss Garden, the first major attraction along the way. There are various other intesting short detours, including the aboriginal Art Gallery at 5.6 km. Cathedral Cave, the last significant feature is at 9.3 km (about 6 miles). It's mostly level walking, though the detours involve some uphill walking. You have to scale a ladder to get into the Amphitheatre.

There are also more challenging hikes up to Boolimba Bluff and to the Devil's Signpost for great views.

I would allow at least two full days (3 nights) at the gorge. Even the easy walks would be demanding to complete in one day.

The Gorge is indeed good for wildlife...we spotted playtpuses in the stream opposite the Lodge. Loads of 'roos, some of which casually graze the grass amongst the safari cabins of the Lodge.

SnRSeattle

Ohhh, Liz and Ralph, thanks so much for confirming my interest in Carnarvon (shhh, we won't tell anyone, just the Fodorites!) We are planning on Nov. in 2006 but don't know if we can wait that long! That's when we should have enough FF miles to come over, but if we charge a lot of things here sooner . . . . . Liz, we will be sure to stop off in the pub in Injune for a drink and darts. Ten hours driving they say in Lonely Planet Queensland from Brisbane to Carnarvon, is that your experience, Liz or Ralph? We will be sure to plan at least 3 days, probably more.
Sally in sunny, warm Seattle

lizF

I am having dreadful trouble with the password log ins - I put in my password and ID and am told that it is not right so I got another password which they sent me - so put that in and that was not right .....got another .... finally made it this morning but for heaven's sake stop this rubbish with passwords etc Fodors its driving me crazy.
Lets see now: Brisbane to Toowoomba is about 1.5 hours T'mba to Miles is about 2.5 hours Miles to Roma 1.5 and Roma to Injune is about 1 hour Injune to Carnarvon 1 hour and that would be an easy pace. I have done it in about 6 hours but that was before the advent of Police cameras.
We usually set out early and then you can enjoy stops en route. There is an interesting pub in Miles as well which has a bar with the cattle horns over it and they serve a really great meal. Most of the Pubs serve good meals on this route and that is where I would be eating. Ask a local perhaps at the petrol station for the best one as they will know, they are usually great value and very well rounded meals as well.
Enjoy your time out there it is a bit of the outback but its also an oasis as well. Just for your information too I think the cost of accommodation at the Injune Pub when I was there was about $12 per person per night and there were places to make coffee etc. I would imagine that the price has gone up but even at $50 a double its pretty good value.