Hello all
We are planning a Seattle-Seattle trip next year - a long loop, taking in Yellowstone and Banff. But I needn't go into that! My problem is Mt St Helens. I had planned to drive from Seattle to Packwood (or vicinity) and take the eastern route to MTH, stopping at the Windy Ridge Lookout. Then back to Packwood for overnight. Next morning, we could drive up to Paradise for a great view of Mt Rainier (not really interested in staying in the Inn there - very expensive) and then back to the main route and continue to our next stop (Grand Coulee Dam). We really do only have one night/2 days to do this in, unfortunately.

However, I've been through the archives on here, and there a quite a few mentions of Packwood, mainly saying that the place is a dump. In what way is it a dump? We don't mind sleeping in a not-too-fancy motel room,as long as it is clean - but we would baulk at rough, as in dangerous!! Is it really so bad?

Also, MSH is an absolute must for me (geology nut)- and I'm only going to get one shot at it, so would we be better going to the Johnson Observatory instead of Windy Ridge? It would be a much longer drive and, after looking at photos, the view at Windy Ridge is fantastic and takes in the blast zone. Any thoughts?

Thanks very much.

Not dangerous, and undoubtedly you can find something okay for one night.

Part of the problem is (going to be) that the Paradise Lodge is closed for renovation until 2008, putting a lttle extra strain on accommodations throughout the area.

I have not been to the Windy Ridge center so can't compare it to the west side centers. Certainly Coldwater and Johnston Ridge are well-equipped, with naturalists and other on-site resources, and if the mountain is urping and burping (which it was when we were last there) I think they are better vantage points into the crater.

I think either using your route, and looking at Packwood as an overnight point, or setting it up by going south on I-5 to MSH, then doubling back a few miles to Rainier, is fine. Personally, I would make it a longish day - early departure from Seattle to MSH (Johnston Ridge) then back to I-5 and over into Mt Rainier on US 12, getting to Paradise in the late afternoon (sun in the west, illuminating the mountain better from that side), then carrying on over the pass to the Yakima valley for the overnight. If it's summer there will be plenty of daylight, and there's plenty of accommodation choices around Yakima. Then the next day's drive to Grand Coulee will be easier and you'll be able to enjoy the remarkable scenery you'll get on that day.

Thank you so much, gardyloo. I had looked at Yakima and wondered. And I would prefer to do the Johnson Ridge route, but had wondered about time. It's very difficult to be able to judge these things from a map! I have printed out your advice and will act on it. Thanks!
Best wishes
WBY

Windy Ridge is fantastic. You do get a better look into the crater from Johnson Ridge, however.
I like your eastern route plan best, even if you end up making it a LONG driving day and staying in Yakima that night. Doing the 1-5 thing to MSH and then Rainier is long and not scenic at all. Your original route would be much prettier and somewhat shorter (MSH National Monument has a page with drive times if you're interested).

I agree with Gardyloo about Packwood-there's nothing wrong with it, it's just an old logging town that's not all spit-shined for tourists. My AAA book lists 4 motels and a restaurant, so it sounds like there are some decent lodging options.

I would generally not advise "doing" both MSH and Rainier in the same day, and indeed the I-5 drive to the MSH cutoff is not especially inspiring (read, b-o-r-i-n-g,) but since you're going east from Rainier, there really isn't a lot of backtracking on the freeway (only about 20 miles) and the drives from I-5 to MSH and back, and US 12 from I-5 toward Rainier, are reasonably attractive, then spectacular as you hit the mountains.

Figure about 2 1/4 hrs from central Seattle to the MSH cutoff, an hour to Johnston Ridge, an hour there, an hour back to the freeway, then around 2 hours to Paradise, so total elapsed time around 7 hours to Paradise. Couple hours there, then another 1 1/2 to Yakima on US 12, total day around 10 hrs. Long day, like I said, but full of Nature's Glory. Oy.

Packwood is OK if you have no other alternative. I know many people who have stayed there one night but nobody who has stayed there twice. Definitions of "dump, n." follow:

• A place where refuse is dumped: a garbage dump; a nuclear waste dump.
• A storage place for goods or supplies; a depot: an ammunition dump.
• An unordered accumulation; a pile.
• Computer Science. An instance or the result of dumping stored data.
• Slang. A poorly maintained or disreputable place.
• Vulgar Slang. An act of defecating. Often used with take.

(Packwood sounds more desirable by the second!)
Hi all - thanks for your further comments. I've been quiet, but that's because I've been thinking! I want to do it all, but can't. I would like to spend more time at both Mt Rainier and at Mt St Helens. My son would like to go to Portland. I would like to see some of the columbia basin (for the geology) - and would like to see both Columbia Gorge AND the Grand Coulee! But can't do it all. I have booked accommodation in Yellowstone (as you have to) and, basically, after leaving Seattle, we have 4 nights to get there. I had planned the last night to be in Philipsburg (just outside of Butte), so that we get to Yellowstone early-ish on our first day. And the volcanoes are a MUST as is *some* of the Columbia river.

To those ends, my latest ideas include, driving from Seattle to Mt Rainier and then down to Castle Rock. If time, taking in Mt St Hels on the same day, but, in any case, staying overnight in Castle Rock, so that we could 'do' it the next morning if necessary. Then I thought we might be able to drive, via Portland, along some of the Gorge - up to Moses Lake. (That would give me some lava flows, wouldn't it??) Then to Coeur D'Alene or similar. What do you think? (This is in no way definite as my mind changes constantly!) Having never been to Washington State, I have no idea of what's what, apart from a flat map, a handful of guidebooks and a lot of desire! (Oh, and I'd REALLY love to see a little bit of the rolling hills of the Palouse .... and on and on it goes ....)
Cheers guys.

Forget I said all that!!!
I have gone back to yesterday's idea (I think it MUST be the Grand Coulee, as I want to see the scablands around Dry Falls.) How about, we leave Seattle early - go first to Mt Rainier (I have to take into consideration that, although it will be late June, the mountain might be obscured by cloud!) and then to MSH. With luck, we could be 'done' by late afternoon? Then we could drive, via Portland (my son only wants to 'see' it - for some reason) - and then stay overnight at Hood River or somewhere. Next day - up to Grand Coulee? Bit of a long drive, but doable?

I need more time, I need more time, I need more time ....

(I am in the UK, btw - so it's a long way to go and get it wrong!)

I think your last plan is eminently doable. An early start from Seattle (or, maybe spend the last night around Tacoma, so as to avoid morning traffic - cheaper, too) can get you to Mt Rainier in the morning ahead of the tour buses; then you can get to MSH in mid-afternoon, and still have plenty of time to get to Portland.

Don't know how old your son is, but I'd strongly recommend an overnight in Troutdale, on the outskirts of Portland (and on the western edge of the Gorge) at McMenamin's Edgefield - www.mcmenamins.com. A very fun place, comprising numerous bars, restaurants, a movie theatre (free for guests), golf, very funky art and beautiful grounds. It will make for an easy starting point to pass through the Gorge the next morning. Take the "historic highway" (starts basically at the Edgefield) to where it connects with I-84, then cross over to the Washington side of the river at Hood River (windsurfing capital of the solar system) or at Cascade Locks. Continue east to Highway 97, stopping if you can at the Maryhill Museum just west of US 97 for a short dose of Rodin and art nouveau (and great Native American crafts collection) before heading north. Note just east of the US 97 junction is a copy of Stonehenge (original version) in case you feel a little homesick.

US 97 is a glorious route - past Mt Adams, through the Yakama Indian reservation, then through winelands and agricultural country until you hit red rocks. You can choose several cut-over routes to Grand Coulee; the lava flow/pothole scenery is plentiful. Note if it's midsummer it will likely be pretty hot.

The drive from Troutdale to Grand Coulee will take most of the day but it's far from a back-breaker.

Any chance you could stay at Longmire Inn (at Rainier) or close to the park entrance the night (in Ashford, for example) before you start your Rainier/MSH day? Cutting off the 2.5 hour drive from Seattle would make the whole day better.
If not, like Gardyloo says, get up EARLY to avoid traffic. There are lots of sprawling suburbs inbetween Seattle and Rainier.
Or, like you said, if it's cloudy, and you call up to the visitor's center to confirm that it's cloudy and no visibility at Rainier as well, you can skip it alltogether. Unless you would be happy walking around meadows in the fog, which does have its charms.