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TUK-TUK Travel Tales-It's THAILAND a trip report

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TUK-TUK Travel Tales-It's THAILAND a trip report

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Old Sep 13th, 2007, 06:02 AM
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the pics are fantastic...the angles, the subjects, the uniqueness....i never tire of seeing pics of the GP...

the best way to deal with the sleep issue is to try to resume your normal sleeping pattern, i find...
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Old Sep 13th, 2007, 10:22 AM
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Thanks rk- I must have looked at those pix a dozen times since I've been home and each time I see something different. The funny thing is, I've seen what's on Robins and T's camera and my pix are the worst ofthe bunch. LOL. Re; the jetlag, just got up didn't fall off to 7 am. I think tonite I may have to resort to drugs. LOL

Hanuman- You have a point there in the eyes of alot of people. For me I live and work in NYC so here there are more mixed couples than not including alot of my friends. For me there was a distinct and obvious difference.
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Old Sep 13th, 2007, 10:35 AM
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I am glad you're awake so you can write another installment, LOL!

What kind of camera do you use? I agree you have very nice photos.
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Old Sep 13th, 2007, 11:27 AM
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Somewhat plagiarized history # 3 Wat Pho

Bangkok's biggest and oldest temple. Known as a learning and traditional medicine center. Home to the largest reclining Buddha. Also, the famous massage school is there, of which we took part.

When we got to Wat Pho the sun was trying to come thru the clouds. It's amazing how the ceramics that cover the spires change in the sunlight. A totally different feel than the Grand Palace. It felt older, a bit worn but in a good way. We head first to see the reclining Buddha. I especially liked the Farrang stone guards around the grounds.

Massive is this Buddha! Covered in gold, and housed in it's own temple. A good view was hard to come by because of the pillars that stand every few feet along the length of it. Gigantic inlaid feet are probably the most photographed part. We stayed for a while just soaking it in. In one of the windows I saw this tiny, skinny little cat. I'm a real animal lover and it broke my heart. Someone had put a cap full of water next to him so we refilled it but he was sound asleep.

On the backside of the Buddha are a long line of pots for donation. You pay a woman who is making up small tins of coins and then walk along the pots dropping coins into each. To be honest I have no idea what it means, but a donation is a donation so both Robin and I took part.

We definitly spent a while walking around Wat Pho. We split up again, except this time Robin and I stayed together. I saw apile of those beautiful roof shingles and wondered if I couldn't slip a few in my purse. I didn't, but it was a thought. At one point we saw a group of school girls. One stopped us and asked if she could interview for a school project. Her English was very good and the questions sweet. Do you like Thailand? Do you like Bangkok? Do you like Thai people? Where are you from? About a dozen questions like that. Robin was the interviewee and it was funny because she immediatly resorted back to her Miss Corn County or something like that days. A perma smile plastered across her face with one word answers. Guess you had to be there but I had to try to keep a straight face. We asked if we could take their picture afterwards.

It was about 4 or so and my pads were killing me. Chucks with no socks was not the right shoe choice for walking all day in sweaty, hot weather. As we were leaving we saw the infamous Wat pho massage school. The 4 of stop right in front and there was no debate, it was unanimous, foot reflexology massage for all. We walk in and just so happens 4 open massage chairs in a row. Perfect, just perfect.

So I don't recall the exact price but I think it was 300-350 for an hour. That's around 10 bucks. Multiply by 10 in NYC. Each chair had a fan on it we were given cold water and all was right in my world. 3 female massage therapists and one male, which was mine. First clean the feet and then for Robin and I who were in dresses a fisherman pant.

The massage was on the whole legs with special attention given to the feet. These guys are not delicate and I heard myself say OUCH aloud more than once. Each time got a chuckle from my guy. Massaging then pounding, and pressing and pounding. What kind of massage was this? No joke we all had black and blue marks on our legs the next day. It was worth it because by the end I felt like I had new feet which I would need to get back to Sukhumvit.

We leave Wat Pho and walk back to where we landed in the longboat. We were quoted the same price 500 Baht for the ride back which would drop us at Shangri La. It was around 5 pm and the sky was changing. Suprisingly to me it gets dark pretty early in Bangkok. Around 6:30. By the time we got to Shangri La we were all starving and therefore a bit cranky. We still hadn't eaten since breakfast. we thought we could grab some eats at one of the hotels on the river.

We walked into the Shangri La, which BTW is a pretty swank hotel. Classic, Asian, beautiful. However what was open was the pool bar which served burgers and club sandwiches. Sorry, but I wasn't having that, I was in Bangkok and American food was the last thing I wanted.

Nothing worse than 4 hungry, bitchy gals on the hunt for food. Noone could agree, we were getting more testy by the minute so we grab the first cab we see and back to our neighborhood. Cab ride back about 150 Baht.

We walk up and down Soi 6 looking for somewhere to eat and just couldn't get it together. At least 1 of us would nix a place. Finally we stumble on Soi 8 and pop in to a place with the same name. An English pub with both English and Thai food. It was air-conditioned, we were tired, it was fine.

A round of Chang beer, a bunch of apps, tummies full, 790 Baht later for the 4. It's all good. We head back to the hotel. we asked T and H what they wanted to do taht night. They said they were tired and wated to go for a swim and have a few drinks by the pool. Um, Nope , that didn't appeal to Robin and I. The next day was our big shopping day and we wanted practice so we decide we would head to Patapong Night market. Upstairs for a quick change of clothes and we would be on our way.

pix of Wat Pho, massage and boat ride back

http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slidesho...yck51&Ux=1

http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slidesho...78gal&Ux=1
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Old Sep 13th, 2007, 11:53 AM
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Unless I'm mistaken, the Chucks to which the Op referred are Converse sneakers. so named because there is a signature of Chuck Taylor in the logo on the side of the sneaker.

Keep it coming.
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Old Sep 13th, 2007, 11:53 AM
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laartista, thanks for another wonderful trip report! I spent January 2004 in Thailand with other members of my weaving guild and you are awakening great memories for me.
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Old Sep 13th, 2007, 12:20 PM
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This looks to be a candidate for Gold Medal Trip Report. Great work, <b>laartista</b>, excellent sense of the feel of the trip.
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Old Sep 13th, 2007, 12:33 PM
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Isn't Gold Medal a type of flour? Does that mean this trip report is rising? Or is it a story of the far yeast?
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Old Sep 13th, 2007, 01:32 PM
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Gpanda- you are correct! Chuck Taylors, my favorite sneakers, although not the best for walking around all day, no cushion. I don't know ewhy I insist on wearing them every trip. Far yeast--LMAO

Moolyn- thanks for the kudos

As tired as we were Saturday night, Robin and I decide to venture out to Patpong night market. Afterall Gary from Spain had really played it up and we are never ones to pass up some shopping. A quick stop at the concierge and we find out Skytrain is the easiest and best way to get there.

Our skytrain station is Na-Na. One alley way away. We would walk this alley/street many times in our 4 days in BKK. At the end of that street right before the skytrain station is an old abandoned blown out building. At night the street food vendors store their carts there and there resides a pack of dogs. Alot of street dogs in Thailand. Although most look worse for the wear, they are suprisingly not that skinny. Only a few we saw actually had ribs showing. Overall, they seem pretty happy and it's kind of cute how they all hang together. One night we talked to a guy, an American who lives up the street, he said he comes by and feeds them which would explain the warm welcome he was getting.

Anyway, this would be our first ride on the skytrain. LOVE THE SKYTRAIN! Best way to get around. Easy, fast, cheap and most of all AIR-CONDITIONED. Nn stranger to mass transit it was a breeze after we figured out the whole zone thing. The machines are easy to use for single tickets. Find your zone , put in your coins and you got yourself a ticket. I think 25 Baht each waty to Patpong. The days that follow we bought 1 day passes at 120 Baht each.

We take the skytrain to Saladaeng stop with a change at Siam. While changing trains we catch our first glimpse of Siam Paragon. I would later decide I wanted to live in that mall. More on that later. We also caught a few minutes of a dance show going on on a large square below. Thai teens dancing to Techno pop with large concert screens above the stage.

Our stop, we get off and down the stairs to the street below. There are stalls there but I feel it is not the infamous Patpong night market. We ask a vendor who points us in the right direction. A quick stop at 7-11 for some water, 7 Baht a bottle. 7-11's are all over the place. Seems like there is one on every corner.

Our first stop is at a booth selling Ed Hardy knockoffs. The hats were like 15 bucks and quite frankly you pay the same on Canal street in NYC. Looking around and asking prices we start thinking the prices are pretty high. I mean, from what I read I would have thought everything cost 3 dollars. Not the case. At least not for us.

Now I've mentioned before about Robin's haggling skills. A real pro. I on the other hand have no stomach for it. In Morocco I would just tell her what I wanted and let her go to town Difference is in Morocco it's a heavy handed bargaining tactic with some ribbing thrown in for good measure. We found less of a language barrier there. However, here in Thailand a whole different ball game.

I had read up on the bargaining techniques in Thailand and schooled Robin in them. Always be nice, never get angry, be soft spoken and most importantly SMILE, always with a smile. I would keep reminding her of this.

First purchase was a Tiffany knock-off necklace that Robin bought for her brothers girlfriend. I think she paid about 12 bucks for it. Next a Louis wallet for my mom, the zip around kind per her request. The price started pretty high at the equivalent of 70 US. Well the real one is 250 so why pay 70 for a fake. Robin also picked out a Prada messenger bag for herself. More things at one booth always equals more bargaining power. Robins first counter offer was met with the phrase &quot; Oh, I cannot&quot;. I cannot, would become the catch phrase for the entire trip. We heard it alot, sorry, I cannot, Madam, I cannot, cannot, cannot, cannot. We heard so frequently that each time someone said it we would laugh. Finally a can, 1500 Baht for both. Now we didn't know if that was good or not but the process was so long and drawn out and the punching of numbers on those calculators. That saleswoman wore US down. They are fast with those calculators, like Quick Draw Mcgraw with a six gun they whip them out.

Patpong is quite the scene. Besides the night market there are a ton of girlie bars, prostitutes and just plain weird stuff. I swear every 5th step some guy was shoving a flyer in my face while saying &quot;Ping Pong Pussy&quot;. &quot; Ping Pong pussy&quot;? I get creeped out just typing it. I had heard about the ping pong shows, not something I cared to see though. At one point I took a picture of the Super Pussy sign and a guy says, &quot; Superpussy?&quot;, No, just a photo. Ping pong? NO. Then he says &quot; Banana too&quot;, Oh man, I lost it. I mean did I look like the kind of gal that wanted to see such a show. I was a bit insulted. Seems Robin looked like that kind as well as every other tourist there. That place was wacked!

Anyhoo, lots of designer fakes at Patpong. In fact there are actual nice stores selling the best copies I'd ever seen. I almost don't think they were copies ,they were that good, more likely fell off a truck somewhere. But those good ones were expensive with starting prices at 350 US. Also you can ask if the copies look crappy if they have &quot;better&quot; ones. They do, hidden in a samsonite in the back room. Which is where Robin's new Prada came from. I personally have no need for an everyday designer bag. Really, where am I going to wear it to? My usual stomping ground, The Home Depot. But Robin just loved them.

As we passed by one booth Robin saw the bag she had just bought and wanted to compare prices. Very Very important lesson coming up. So, she asks the guy how much, he says 1850 Baht, she had just paid 900 with some negotiation. she says, is that your best price? he comes back with 1700. We already figured out he wasn't getting anywhere near what she paid. so very politely and with the all important smile she says, ok, thank you. He calls her back, she says still with the smile, thank you, I was just looking. And then, a loud crash. That Patpong purse seller threw his calculator down so hard it busted open into pieces while yelling at Robin .Looking? Looking for what? What you looking for?. Scary times. We were shocked at his reaction, really shocked. Wasn't this the land of smiles? Where were the smiles? We would soon discover, not so smiley in Bangkok. Smiley out of Bangkok, but for us Bangkok was running low on smiles. So here's the moral of that story. Do not under any circumstance ask for the best price if you do not intend on buying it. They get pissy, it happened more than once and we are sure that we were cursed out by many a vendor.

We spent a bit longer at the market, I bought a suoer cool belt and Robin got a sundress and some other small stuff. Then the sky broke open and we got poured on. What was interesting to see was when the rain started and it started hard the vendors scrambled each grabbing a stool and in a line did a community plastic canopy covering. They had obviously done this once or twice before.

We got back to the hotel around 1 am and put in for a 7 am wake up call. Sunday was our big shopping day and that's next.

a few pix

http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slidesho...bnmt6&amp;Ux=1



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Old Sep 13th, 2007, 02:20 PM
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Your report certainly makes for fun reading. Perhaps it should be required reading for novices headed to Bangkok. With all the questions you asked ahead of time, I'm kind of suprised you didn't remember about &quot;the Palace is closed&quot; scam, and the gas coupons for tuk tuk drivers from tailors and jewelry stores. Given your feelings about prostitution, I'm suprised you chose to stay and shop in areas renowed for it. You could easily have avoided all that. And the issue about not asking a &quot;best price&quot; unless you really want the item, I thought that was standard around the world - especially in Morocco!

The good news is, despite the &quot;bumps&quot; you didn't let it ruin your trip. Kudos to you for going with the flow.
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Old Sep 13th, 2007, 02:45 PM
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Thanks Kathie. Yeah, never let bumps ruin a trip, in my opinion they make for the best travel stories. What fun would it be if all went too smooth. I had read so much and asked so many questions that I only retained some of the info. It was almost as if I remembered things after the fact and a lightbulb went off and I found myself saying Oh, yeah. One thing I did not know was where we were staying and what sort of area it was. It was a good central location but I think if ever I return to Bangkok I would stay by the river. Re: Patpong, I kind of pictured it like 42 nd street in the 80's. Everything was just more than I expected. And as far as the bargaining goes, at least for us it was way different in Morocco. It was actually fun there, like a game and we had a blast with it and the Moroccans. Found it was more like work in Bangkok. Much easier and friendlier in Samui. But then again that's just what we experienced. It's different for everyone. Despite ant pitfalls, I'm glad to have experienced Bangkok, a fantastic and unusual city. I know it's super popular with alot of people here and I probably would go back, but if I'm to be honest I'd sooner return to Marrakech. I would however love to make it to the north of Thailand. They are very different the 2 trips I've taken this year.
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Old Sep 13th, 2007, 06:46 PM
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Day 3 BKK Shopping extravaganza or so we thought.


Started the day super early meeting up with teh gals in the lobby. Wanted to get to Chatuchak first thing. I had been told best to get there early before the crowds and the heat. We take the skytrain w/ a quick switch at Siam station the train lets you off at Chauchak Park.

I guess it was around 9 am when we got there. There were no crowds but it was already hot and I could see how that place could become a nightmare in the height of the day. We all grabbed one of those nancy Chandler maps. It offered us no help. I'm sure there is a rhyme and reason to this massive market, we just never figured it out.

The night before Robin and I had been talking about how it may be difficult all 4 shopping together. We are serious shoppers, both at home and abroad. We have similar tastes and spending styles. There are few people I can shop with, one happening to be Robin. The other 2 were admittedly non shoppers and we feared they might hold us back. that said we in no way wanted to be rude and go our own so we figured we'de just deal with it. Imagine our suprise and delight when they suggested we split up and meet at around 12:30 by the clock tower. Perfect, we were off the hook. But, here's the thing, this was the start of a seperation trend. And although we did not mind it, we actually welcomed it, over the next week their tactics would become increasingly rude. More on that later. For now, we were ready to shop.

Chatuchak is really a confusing maze. We tried our best to go thru in some order but kept getting side tracked. Prices were pretty good, haggling was a bit easier and we definitly got some cool stuff. But my beads were the score of the day.

I use alot of beads in my mosaics. Mostly czeck and chineses pressed glass, abalone and dyed mother of pearl. It was 11;45 before I stumbled on the bead stall row. the first place i went had an amazing selection of dyed mother of pearl beads. Every shape and color you could think of. At 25 baht per strand it was about 1/3 of what I pay at wholesale here at home. They did have some chinese pressed glass but were very stubborn on the price, even though I was buying a bunch. The price they quoted me was basically the same as home so I wasn't biting. I walked away spending 2300 Baht for 100 strands and I was psyched!

i stop at one more place and pick up some agate plus a necklace when I realize I'm out of time and I've lost Robin. It had gotten so crowded, I head over to the clock tower and there the other 3 were.
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Old Sep 13th, 2007, 08:05 PM
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Oops hit post before edit

After hearing much about the MBK center Robin and I wanted to check it out. Plus it had air conditioning. T and h decided they wanted to stay at Chatuchak so once again we parted ways.

We had bought a good amount of stuff at the market and had it all in one of those plaid, zippered handled bags that can pick up for about 35 Baht. We decided to make a quick stop back at the Sofitel to drop off our purchases before heading over to MBK.

From the Sofitel MBK is a quick skytrain ride away. Get off at Siam and walk a few blocks. Can't miss it it's huge. We enter from the elevated walkway into the third floor. Lots of food places and considering we hadn't eaten all day, skipped breakfast and it was almost 3 food was our first priority. We would sit and get up from 3 different tables in 3 different restaurants before settling in someplace on the ground floor that had Japanese, Thai and Italian food menus. Kind of comical I thought. We just were having a hard time with food in Bangkok or should I say deciding on food.

First place smelled funky, Second place had an army of live crabs in rubberband straight jackets on display, couldn't eat there, felt bad for the crabs. Third place turned out to be a pork house. I like pork, wasn't in the mood for it. Place number 4 was a keeper. we ordered a cold beef salad, a chicken noodle dish and some spring rolls. All off the Thai menu, 2 beers total 450 Baht. Stomachs full we leave to shop.

Maybe it's us but was totally unimpressed with MBK. Actually hated it. Prices much higher than Chatuchak,merchandise cheap and chintzy, just didn't get what all the hype was about. Would have left empty handed but stopped at Starbucks to pick up bangkok mugs. I've got them from everywhere. They are big, hold alot of coffee which come in handy for all nighters trying to meet a deadline and best of a constant reminder of where I've been. Next stop Siam paragon.

Now this is what I'm talking about. One of the most beautiful shopping malls I've ever seen. The food court on the ground level alone is worth the visit. No bargains to be found at Paragon. High end shopping with price tags to match. These things are less in the US but it's still fun to look.

We stop for a coffee at Haggan Das and then over to an open gift shop area. They had some neat stuff and we both ended up buying some jewelry by a Thai designer. I especially liked the sterling silver neclace with an elephant charm and my intial A in the tThai alphabet. I also picked up a great bangle. I think all was around 35 dollars.
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Old Sep 13th, 2007, 08:12 PM
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as to shopping...had you gone to a less touristy market you would have encountered plenty of smiles and friendliness and never any arrogance from thais....

sometimes some indian vendors in bkk can be quite rude.,....i had a run in with one at the river city shopping mall one day and i will never forget how rude and arrogant he was....totally uncalled for...

it is much more like the experiences you had in samui....i guess its like the difference shopping in westchester and the city
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Old Sep 13th, 2007, 09:34 PM
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It is so much fun reading about your trip. Your writing style is fun and is very easy to follow. Most trip reports as long as this I cant make it past day two! I can remember the first time we went to patpong, this girl grabbed my crotch as we were walking, I was holding my wifes hand and the girl gave me this look like&quot;she can come too!&quot; The wife doesnt like to go back there again!
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Old Sep 14th, 2007, 02:49 AM
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Are we supposed to read anything into the fact that you are now referring to one of your travelling companions in the lower case, i.e., &quot;h&quot;?
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Old Sep 14th, 2007, 05:54 AM
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I totally agree with you about MBK - I can't imagine what peope like about it! But we all shop differently.

Siam Paragon has the best food courts of any of the shopping centers, IMO.
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Old Sep 14th, 2007, 07:53 AM
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We are waiting with baited breath. No sleeping. Put on your Chucks and keep us laughing.

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Old Sep 14th, 2007, 09:41 AM
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Kathie - so true! we all do shop differently. I know some people who probably would have loved MBK, just not my cup o tea. LOL And yes, paragon's food court is amazing. One day we just walked around and bought all different food from those prepped food stalls. All were delicious.

Gpanda- lazy typing is all re: the lower case h. Now a lower case t may be another story. LOL
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Old Sep 14th, 2007, 11:29 AM
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Back at the hotel we meet up with Hand T who are at the pool enjoying a few brews. We exchange stories of the rest of our day. T tells us she fell off the coffee table in her room. What she was doing on the coffee table, we'll never know but this girl had a rasberry bruise no exaggeration that went from her hip to her knee and was about 5&quot; wide. It was horrible looking.

We had a bottle of champagne and a bottle of red from our plane ride over and decided to pop them open. It was around 11 and I was starving. All I ate all day was lunch at MBK so we buckle and order room service. 2 quesadills and 1 egg sandwich ( hold the comments from the peanut gallery please). 30 minutes later the most disgusting cold food EVER arrives. Now this is a Sofitel and I expected better. Not 5 star dining but I've gotten better food off the snack truck in college at 3 a.m. Oh no, this would not do. Sent it right back! Midnight, starving, 7-11 is next door. As shameful as it is and as embarressed I am to write this, PB &amp; J and oreos. Pitiful.


http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slidesho...1q18r&amp;Ux=1



Day 3 ( I think) BKK

Decided to sleep in a bit today. Hadn't gotten more than 4 hours a night since arriving. T and H have breakfast next door at the Dynasty each day. We meet up at around 10 am and head to Siam Paragon. We had shown them the cool jewelry we had gotten and they wanted some too. Especially the silver initial pendents in the Thai alphabet. I really had wanted my whole name spelled out on a necklace it looked really neat but it seems some of our English letters don't exist in the Thai alphahbet. In my case notably the D. I'd be wearing ANREA instead if Andrea.

We take the skytrain again, really best way to get around. While they are shopping Robin and I opt for some yummy treats from the food court. We got a smorgasboard of stuff. Fried bananas, these other half circle fried things with an egg in it ( are those chicken eggs? they seem small for chicken eggs) A samosa type food, one with spinach, one with potato I think. Some chicken satays and a couple of bottled green teas which we would become addicted to.

I really wanted to see Jim Thompson House. I love architecture, majored in Interior Design in a graduate program, and silk, who doesn't love good silk. T and H didn't really want to go. T said I don't really want to see a silk house. I said, it's not a silk house. I explained how Jim Thompson was an Architect and also an American Spy who took up residence in BKK and basically revived the silk trade from Thailand. ( I hope that's right. LOL) Begrudgingly they decide to tag along.

I stopped at the concierge at Paragon to get directions. He said we MUST take a cab, much too far to walk. 100 Baht and about 5 blocks later. It's just up the street. Totally walkable, we arrive at Jim Thompson House. This place is a hotbed of tourist activity. You must take the tour to see the house and the next one left in 15 minutes. Perfect. We go to buy our tickets and the woman informs me I must check my bag. I ask, my purse? yes, you must check it. I had my passport and wallet in it, it was my purse. Too big, must check it. But, no must check it. Robin asks for 2 tickets, whoever has the money out pays, we even it up along the way which is a plus to traveling with good friends. Then, the ticket woman says, SHE, speaking of me to Robin as if I'm invisible has a problem with the purse. Me? No I don't have a problem, I couldn't help but laugh. &quot; You check your purse?&quot; Yeah, yeah, I'll check it. Turns out we all had to check ours. They give you a locker with a key and also leave your shoes.

Jim Thompson's place is like a sanctuary right smack in the middle of the chaos of this city. You forget you are in BKK. The tour takes you from room to room giving history of both Jim Thompson and his belongings. He has an extensive collection of SE Asian art. Two things that stuck with me that I really like were the way the doorways were framed like windows and you had to step over a sash. This was said to keep evil spirits out. I also particularly liked a large carved wood screen facing his bed with I think 148 or something like that buddhas on it. Also for protection. Lot of good it did him though. Thompson disapeared either on or around his 61 st birthday while in Malaysia. Legend has it that those born in the year of the horse need to be careful in their 61st year. He was a horse.First thing I thought upon hearing this is Shit! I'm a horse too. Luckily I've still got time.

Both the house and the gardens were beautiful. Not a bad place to live. After the tour you are welcome if not obliged to visit the Jim Thompson silk store. Oh, the colors,and patterns, they have some beautiful stuff there. AND, prices are not bad. I bought my mom a silk eyeglass holder and my dad a silk brocade tie with a matching in color but different in pattern pocket hanky. 2400 Baht for all.

H and T informed us they would be heading back to the hotel. H didn't feel well and that they would meet up with us later, MAYBE. Whatever, see ya. Robin and I were off to Khao San Road and then Chinatown.

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