Sushi, Shrines and Shinkansen; 8 Days in Tokyo and Kyoto
Aug 11th, 2011, 08:55 PM
#81
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Still here and loving your report. You saw a lot for a first trip.....so much more to see but Italy awaits.
Planning on being in Kyushu this fall....Nagasaki....onsens....Hakata....onsen....K yoto.....onsen....eating and soaking our way through the fall season....can't wait
Aloha!
Planning on being in Kyushu this fall....Nagasaki....onsens....Hakata....onsen....K yoto.....onsen....eating and soaking our way through the fall season....can't wait
Aloha!
Very good report, you put the rest of us to shame! xx
Aug 15th, 2011, 05:27 PM
#83
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Sometimes eating in the wrong place can result in delicious serendipity. Today's new post is all about that and more.
http://www.wired2theworld.com/2011/0...appy-accident/
http://www.wired2theworld.com/2011/0...appy-accident/
Aug 31st, 2011, 07:08 AM
#84
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<b>A Saturday in Tokyo at Ueno Park and Ameyoko Market</b>
We all hope for unscripted moments when we travel, don’t we? It’s those precious minutes when you actually get to interact with someone who lives in the place you have traveled halfway around the world to visit, someone who isn’t paid to interact with you (like a hotel employee, tour guide or waiter).
These experiences seem fewer and farther between now that we have up-to-the-minute travel blogs to point the way, yelp reviews to tell us where to eat, and smart phones to guide us on the go. Still, those authentic moments can and do still happen, when you least expect it. And that’s how we found ourselves sharing beer and yakitori with a group of guys at a little stand inside the Ameyoko Market in Tokyo.
We had spent the morning in Ueno Park visiting the Tokyo National Museum, which while partly closed due to the March 11 earthquake, was still worth the visit to see the beautiful historical kimonos, art, and archaeological finds (swords, pottery, jewelery, etc.) of Japan. It was raining so we didn’t feel like walking through the huge park to visit any of the other sights there; various pagodas and shrines, a lake, and several other museums. We did however, pause to take a picture of this life-sized blue whale outside the National Science Museum. A comprehensive visit to this park could easily take several days in better weather.
The Ameyoko Market is across the street from the South end of the Ueno train station and runs underneath the elevated train tracks. There are two larger pedestrian streets which run parallel to the train tracks and several smaller alleys which crisscross underneath. Legend has it this was a place where black market items could be found, especially after WWII. Now it’s filled with everything from discount clothing, to fresh fish and fruit, to small food stalls.
We all hope for unscripted moments when we travel, don’t we? It’s those precious minutes when you actually get to interact with someone who lives in the place you have traveled halfway around the world to visit, someone who isn’t paid to interact with you (like a hotel employee, tour guide or waiter).
These experiences seem fewer and farther between now that we have up-to-the-minute travel blogs to point the way, yelp reviews to tell us where to eat, and smart phones to guide us on the go. Still, those authentic moments can and do still happen, when you least expect it. And that’s how we found ourselves sharing beer and yakitori with a group of guys at a little stand inside the Ameyoko Market in Tokyo.
We had spent the morning in Ueno Park visiting the Tokyo National Museum, which while partly closed due to the March 11 earthquake, was still worth the visit to see the beautiful historical kimonos, art, and archaeological finds (swords, pottery, jewelery, etc.) of Japan. It was raining so we didn’t feel like walking through the huge park to visit any of the other sights there; various pagodas and shrines, a lake, and several other museums. We did however, pause to take a picture of this life-sized blue whale outside the National Science Museum. A comprehensive visit to this park could easily take several days in better weather.
The Ameyoko Market is across the street from the South end of the Ueno train station and runs underneath the elevated train tracks. There are two larger pedestrian streets which run parallel to the train tracks and several smaller alleys which crisscross underneath. Legend has it this was a place where black market items could be found, especially after WWII. Now it’s filled with everything from discount clothing, to fresh fish and fruit, to small food stalls.
Aug 31st, 2011, 07:11 AM
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<b> Ameyoko Market continued...</b>
We were strolling though the market when we found ourselves stopped in our tracks by the smell of grilling meat. The mouth watering smell was coming from a little yakitori restaurant called Daitoryo smack in the center of the market underneath the train tracks. We stood there, looking to see what they had and if there was a place to sit, but the signs (hundreds of them) were in Japanese and every seat was taken.
<b>Then, the moment. </b>
There was a small group of guys sitting at the tables in front of the restaurant and one of them said, “sit here!” We did as we were told, ordered a couple of beers, and were presented with a menu in English.
Of the five sitting at the table, one of the older gentlemen (in the red jacket) spoke English because he had spent time in the US, and through him, everyone offered advice on what to order.
We ordered grilled peppers (not really spicy even though they looked like jalapenos), grilled chicken, beef, and tofu. We also ordered eggplant which came out pickled and later, some extra beef and chicken because they were really, really tasty. We did not try any off the offal offerings because David is not a fan of what he calls the “nasty bits.” One of the older guys seemed surprised that we liked tofu. They were also surprised that I was drinking a beer which gave me the impression that Japanese women don’t tend to drink beer.
The two younger guys sitting at the table were bikers and both wearing motorcycle jackets. One of them had a serious crush on our waitress. The three older guys at the table were hard core regulars, drinking whiskey and smoking cigarettes while eating. The five were not friends, but knew each other as regulars at the restaurant.
While we ate they asked us dozens of questions about where we had traveled, what we thought of Japan, and if we had been scared to come after the earthquake and tsunami. We told them where we had been, how much we adored Japan and no, we weren’t scared. The gentleman in gray sitting next to me, who smoked like a chimney (the Hi-Lites were his), offered to buy us a second round of beers. I declined but David did not which pleased him. They asked what we did for a living and how old we were (and very nicely acted surprised when they found out my age).
Our lunch was about 3000 yen. These guys were genuinely welcoming and sharing a table with them was a treat. As we walked away, we looked at each other and said, <i>“Did that just happen?”</i>
In the evening we headed out to the bright neon lights of Shinjuku. We wandered, checking out the electronics store and looking at menus of a couple of dozen restaurants, eventually stopping at a place called “Standing Sushi Bar.” It’s about a block away from Watami Izakaya, on the same side of the street. The restaurant is a tiny place with only a bar at which yes, you must stand (no stools to sit on). But the prices are reasonable, the sushi chefs friendly, and the fish is fresh. We ate our fill for about 1500 yen (though David said he could have eaten more once he saw the bill).
Lots of photos at http://www.wired2theworld.com/2011/0...he-local-crew/
We were strolling though the market when we found ourselves stopped in our tracks by the smell of grilling meat. The mouth watering smell was coming from a little yakitori restaurant called Daitoryo smack in the center of the market underneath the train tracks. We stood there, looking to see what they had and if there was a place to sit, but the signs (hundreds of them) were in Japanese and every seat was taken.
<b>Then, the moment. </b>
There was a small group of guys sitting at the tables in front of the restaurant and one of them said, “sit here!” We did as we were told, ordered a couple of beers, and were presented with a menu in English.
Of the five sitting at the table, one of the older gentlemen (in the red jacket) spoke English because he had spent time in the US, and through him, everyone offered advice on what to order.
We ordered grilled peppers (not really spicy even though they looked like jalapenos), grilled chicken, beef, and tofu. We also ordered eggplant which came out pickled and later, some extra beef and chicken because they were really, really tasty. We did not try any off the offal offerings because David is not a fan of what he calls the “nasty bits.” One of the older guys seemed surprised that we liked tofu. They were also surprised that I was drinking a beer which gave me the impression that Japanese women don’t tend to drink beer.
The two younger guys sitting at the table were bikers and both wearing motorcycle jackets. One of them had a serious crush on our waitress. The three older guys at the table were hard core regulars, drinking whiskey and smoking cigarettes while eating. The five were not friends, but knew each other as regulars at the restaurant.
While we ate they asked us dozens of questions about where we had traveled, what we thought of Japan, and if we had been scared to come after the earthquake and tsunami. We told them where we had been, how much we adored Japan and no, we weren’t scared. The gentleman in gray sitting next to me, who smoked like a chimney (the Hi-Lites were his), offered to buy us a second round of beers. I declined but David did not which pleased him. They asked what we did for a living and how old we were (and very nicely acted surprised when they found out my age).
Our lunch was about 3000 yen. These guys were genuinely welcoming and sharing a table with them was a treat. As we walked away, we looked at each other and said, <i>“Did that just happen?”</i>
In the evening we headed out to the bright neon lights of Shinjuku. We wandered, checking out the electronics store and looking at menus of a couple of dozen restaurants, eventually stopping at a place called “Standing Sushi Bar.” It’s about a block away from Watami Izakaya, on the same side of the street. The restaurant is a tiny place with only a bar at which yes, you must stand (no stools to sit on). But the prices are reasonable, the sushi chefs friendly, and the fish is fresh. We ate our fill for about 1500 yen (though David said he could have eaten more once he saw the bill).
Lots of photos at http://www.wired2theworld.com/2011/0...he-local-crew/
Sep 18th, 2011, 06:44 AM
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It's only taken me 5 months to finish writing about an 8 day trip, but here we go...
On our last day in Tokyo we have about half a day before we have to leave for the airport for a 7pm flight back to Los Angeles. The hotel has allowed us a (slightly) late checkout at 2pm, so we set out to do a little last minute shopping and sightseeing.
The first goal is to find a baseball hat with a Tokyo team logo on it for a friend which turns out to be much harder than it seems. We ask the concierge who, after a bit of research tells us we need to go to an official store at the Tokyo Dome where they sell licensed baseball gear.
Around the Shinkjuku train station there are a few sporting goods stores, but indeed, they only sell plain baseball caps. Using our JR passes, we take the train from Shinjuku station to the Tokyo Dome stop, about a half hour ride.
Once there, we find a couple of shops selling a very limited selection of hats which are (to me) crazy-expensive (about $45). David buys one for his friend but thankfully forgoes the one for himself.
On the way back to the train, we pass a street vendor with a cart selling cream filled pastries called obanyaki. We stopped and bought one, really having no idea what it would be like, but it was amazing! Warm, soft and filled with a slightly sweet pastry cream, you can’t go wrong there. He was also selling some filled with red bean paste.
Back onto the train where we went to the Harajuku stop, only to discover that even though it is Sunday, there were almost no people walking around in costume. From there, we took another walk down Takashita Dori and were going to head down to the Oriental Bazaar store, but decided we did not have time. Instead, we found a guy on the corner of Omote-Sando and Meiji-Dori selling vintage kimonos and robes. I bought a vinatge haori, which is hip length with hanging kimono style sleeves and typically worn like a jacket over a kimono.
The one I chose is a very simple and elegant black, with delicate embroidery on the back and lined a pink and white patterned silk, perfect as a dressy cover up on a night out. David chose a traditional cotton yakuta robe in blue and brown. As I paid, I realized that we were spending every last bit of our yen. Thankfully, we already had our tickets for the return airport bus. The only problem was going to be lunch…
We solved the cash dilemma on way back to the hotel, by stopping in one of the department store food halls connected to Shinjuku station to buy an assortment for lunch back in the room; freshly cooked gyoza and sushi made to order. Thankfully, we were able to pay for it with a credit card.
The bus for the airport departs the hotel once an hour, but because of possible traffic they recommend you leave very early. Needless to say, we arrived very early (around 3:30pm) for our 7pm departure. We sat in the departure hall where there’s some really cool murals and held on to our rented Mifi for the last couple of hours, then dropped it into mail box.
Our plane was not full and we were able to switch seats with the guy next to the window in my row so that David and I had 3 seats for the 2 of us. I slept more than expected and we arrived back in LA in a record 9 hours flight time.
To sum up the trip in six words; we cannot wait to go back.
Photos at: http://www.wired2theworld.com/2011/0...od-hall-lunch/
On our last day in Tokyo we have about half a day before we have to leave for the airport for a 7pm flight back to Los Angeles. The hotel has allowed us a (slightly) late checkout at 2pm, so we set out to do a little last minute shopping and sightseeing.
The first goal is to find a baseball hat with a Tokyo team logo on it for a friend which turns out to be much harder than it seems. We ask the concierge who, after a bit of research tells us we need to go to an official store at the Tokyo Dome where they sell licensed baseball gear.
Around the Shinkjuku train station there are a few sporting goods stores, but indeed, they only sell plain baseball caps. Using our JR passes, we take the train from Shinjuku station to the Tokyo Dome stop, about a half hour ride.
Once there, we find a couple of shops selling a very limited selection of hats which are (to me) crazy-expensive (about $45). David buys one for his friend but thankfully forgoes the one for himself.
On the way back to the train, we pass a street vendor with a cart selling cream filled pastries called obanyaki. We stopped and bought one, really having no idea what it would be like, but it was amazing! Warm, soft and filled with a slightly sweet pastry cream, you can’t go wrong there. He was also selling some filled with red bean paste.
Back onto the train where we went to the Harajuku stop, only to discover that even though it is Sunday, there were almost no people walking around in costume. From there, we took another walk down Takashita Dori and were going to head down to the Oriental Bazaar store, but decided we did not have time. Instead, we found a guy on the corner of Omote-Sando and Meiji-Dori selling vintage kimonos and robes. I bought a vinatge haori, which is hip length with hanging kimono style sleeves and typically worn like a jacket over a kimono.
The one I chose is a very simple and elegant black, with delicate embroidery on the back and lined a pink and white patterned silk, perfect as a dressy cover up on a night out. David chose a traditional cotton yakuta robe in blue and brown. As I paid, I realized that we were spending every last bit of our yen. Thankfully, we already had our tickets for the return airport bus. The only problem was going to be lunch…
We solved the cash dilemma on way back to the hotel, by stopping in one of the department store food halls connected to Shinjuku station to buy an assortment for lunch back in the room; freshly cooked gyoza and sushi made to order. Thankfully, we were able to pay for it with a credit card.
The bus for the airport departs the hotel once an hour, but because of possible traffic they recommend you leave very early. Needless to say, we arrived very early (around 3:30pm) for our 7pm departure. We sat in the departure hall where there’s some really cool murals and held on to our rented Mifi for the last couple of hours, then dropped it into mail box.
Our plane was not full and we were able to switch seats with the guy next to the window in my row so that David and I had 3 seats for the 2 of us. I slept more than expected and we arrived back in LA in a record 9 hours flight time.
To sum up the trip in six words; we cannot wait to go back.
Photos at: http://www.wired2theworld.com/2011/0...od-hall-lunch/
Sep 18th, 2011, 08:51 AM
#88
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What a fantastic trip with a report to match it, thanks for taking the time, literally 
Our first trip to Japan in 2004 was a three day filler on our way back from Thailand and Hong Kong. We had three days in Tokyo that trip but all I could think about when we got home was when will I return. You have written so much here of what you first saw and felt in Japan yet there is so much more to see. As I mentioned before its nice to get out into the countryside and experience a ryokan with hot spring stay or two. That would be a great start. You really delve into what some would call the real Japan with a ryokan stay because its so steep in authentic customs and settings. Every prefecture has it's different customs,foods,crafts and all are so clean,safe,orderly,efficient yet simple,friendly and for the most part signs in English. All ready to be experienced and explored. Not to mention all of the World Heritage sites within Japan, temples, hot springs, scenery, food food and more food,lol.
I sense from your writing that you have been bitten by the same bug I was back in 04 and will return soon......I am. Thanks again!!!
Aloha!
Our first trip to Japan in 2004 was a three day filler on our way back from Thailand and Hong Kong. We had three days in Tokyo that trip but all I could think about when we got home was when will I return. You have written so much here of what you first saw and felt in Japan yet there is so much more to see. As I mentioned before its nice to get out into the countryside and experience a ryokan with hot spring stay or two. That would be a great start. You really delve into what some would call the real Japan with a ryokan stay because its so steep in authentic customs and settings. Every prefecture has it's different customs,foods,crafts and all are so clean,safe,orderly,efficient yet simple,friendly and for the most part signs in English. All ready to be experienced and explored. Not to mention all of the World Heritage sites within Japan, temples, hot springs, scenery, food food and more food,lol.
I sense from your writing that you have been bitten by the same bug I was back in 04 and will return soon......I am. Thanks again!!!
Aloha!
