Sushi, Shrines and Shinkansen; 8 Days in Tokyo and Kyoto
May 11th, 2011, 08:54 PM
#42
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HT-Thank you so much! Your advice before we left was invaluable. In fact, I always put together my own "guidebooks" before I travel filled with info and recommendations, and a lot of your comments were in there. I kept saying to my husband "HT says..." 
It takes me a long time to do these trip reports, I know, but I hope y'all stick with me because I will get it done eventually!
It takes me a long time to do these trip reports, I know, but I hope y'all stick with me because I will get it done eventually!
May 12th, 2011, 06:53 AM
#43
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Kristina-My pleasure. So happy you found something I wrote of any use.
That picture you took on the tour bus of yourselves and the empty bus really showed me(a many time Japan visitor) how terrible the tourist economy is right now. That bus should have been full picking up just from the hotels located around the Hilton in Shinjuku alone. Especially sad when you think about being there during the cherry blossom season,one of the busiest tourist seasons in Japan (sigh)
We'll all be right here waiting patiently for the rest of your wonderful report. I know the Panda is still watching and he would say timely report no penalty
Aloha!
That picture you took on the tour bus of yourselves and the empty bus really showed me(a many time Japan visitor) how terrible the tourist economy is right now. That bus should have been full picking up just from the hotels located around the Hilton in Shinjuku alone. Especially sad when you think about being there during the cherry blossom season,one of the busiest tourist seasons in Japan (sigh)
We'll all be right here waiting patiently for the rest of your wonderful report. I know the Panda is still watching and he would say timely report no penalty
Aloha!
May 17th, 2011, 07:28 PM
#44
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<b>Tokyo Restaurants;
Hitsumabushi (unagi/grilled eel)</B>
The Hitsumabushi restaurant on the 12th floor of the Ginza branch of Tokyu Hands department is the main branch of a well-known Nagoya eel restaurant. They are famous for their special Nagoya-style tamari sauce on Unagi (eel) which has been grilled over bincho charcoal.
We arrived at lunch time to find a full house and people waiting on child sized plastic chairs along the wall outside the restaurant’s front door. Uncertain what to do, I took a seat on one of the chairs and David went inside to get a menu.
The wait was brief and shortly we were seated inside on the banquette against the back wall of the restaurant’s single small room. The space is quite inviting, there is a large communal table filled with zen flower arrangements in the center.
We ordered a salad with grilled eel on top and the mid-range set meal which came with eel in “sweet” sauce, rice, miso soup, pickled vegetables, and some other unidentifiable (to us) edibles. The eel on both dishes was amazing; delicate in both flavor and texture. While I very much enjoyed the salad I would have been happy to have my own set meal so I could have more of the unagi. Lunch for two, including beer was 4800 yen.
Afterward, I stood at the window which looks into the kitchen from the hallway outside, watching the one of the cooks work the charcoal grill. He saw me with my camera and was nice enough to hold up the skewered eel for me after he had dipped it in the giant vat of sauce next to the fire.
Hitsumabushi Nagoya Bincho 5159-0231 Ginza /2-2-14, Marronnier Gate 12F. Open 11am-3, 5-10pm daily.
http://www.hitsumabushi.co.jp/menu_eng.html
*Note about finding the restaurant; it is on the 12th floor of the Ginza branch of the Tokyu Hands department store, but we didn't know this, we only had an address.
After our ½ day tour dropped us in the center of the Ginza neighborhood, we decided to have lunch there before going anywhere else.
I had some places in my notes, but no way to find them on the map. We turned on the Mifi and I went to www.bento.com where I searched for Hitumabushi from my notes and used the GPS function on the bento.com site to help us find it. It took a bit of trial and error, but eventually we found ourselves in front of Ginza Tokyu Hands store.
This is a very cool store by the way, and warrants a bit of extra time to peruse everything from nifty kitchen gear, to art supplies, to clothing.
Hitsumabushi (unagi/grilled eel)</B>
The Hitsumabushi restaurant on the 12th floor of the Ginza branch of Tokyu Hands department is the main branch of a well-known Nagoya eel restaurant. They are famous for their special Nagoya-style tamari sauce on Unagi (eel) which has been grilled over bincho charcoal.
We arrived at lunch time to find a full house and people waiting on child sized plastic chairs along the wall outside the restaurant’s front door. Uncertain what to do, I took a seat on one of the chairs and David went inside to get a menu.
The wait was brief and shortly we were seated inside on the banquette against the back wall of the restaurant’s single small room. The space is quite inviting, there is a large communal table filled with zen flower arrangements in the center.
We ordered a salad with grilled eel on top and the mid-range set meal which came with eel in “sweet” sauce, rice, miso soup, pickled vegetables, and some other unidentifiable (to us) edibles. The eel on both dishes was amazing; delicate in both flavor and texture. While I very much enjoyed the salad I would have been happy to have my own set meal so I could have more of the unagi. Lunch for two, including beer was 4800 yen.
Afterward, I stood at the window which looks into the kitchen from the hallway outside, watching the one of the cooks work the charcoal grill. He saw me with my camera and was nice enough to hold up the skewered eel for me after he had dipped it in the giant vat of sauce next to the fire.
Hitsumabushi Nagoya Bincho 5159-0231 Ginza /2-2-14, Marronnier Gate 12F. Open 11am-3, 5-10pm daily.
http://www.hitsumabushi.co.jp/menu_eng.html
*Note about finding the restaurant; it is on the 12th floor of the Ginza branch of the Tokyu Hands department store, but we didn't know this, we only had an address.
After our ½ day tour dropped us in the center of the Ginza neighborhood, we decided to have lunch there before going anywhere else.
I had some places in my notes, but no way to find them on the map. We turned on the Mifi and I went to www.bento.com where I searched for Hitumabushi from my notes and used the GPS function on the bento.com site to help us find it. It took a bit of trial and error, but eventually we found ourselves in front of Ginza Tokyu Hands store.
This is a very cool store by the way, and warrants a bit of extra time to peruse everything from nifty kitchen gear, to art supplies, to clothing.
May 17th, 2011, 08:01 PM
#45
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<b>Tokyo Restaurants;
Tsunahachi (tempura)</b>
Our plan for dinner was to have Yakatori in an area near Shinjuku station affectionately nicknamed “piss alley.” This is actually two narrow streets packed with teeny-tiny hole-in-the-wall places. After peeking inside most of them, we finally picked one and sat down. Then we realized we didn't have nearly enough cash on us and left to find an ATM.
Unfortunately this became one of those travel experiences that can happen on any trip; the ridiculous walking in circles trying to find a machine which would take our card and give us cash. At some point it became comical and then it just became frustrating.
Inside Shinjuku station, there were ATMs, but none of the open ones worked for us. When there is usually a convenience store on every corner, tonight we could not find one 7-11 to save our lives. Finally, we gave up, looked at my notes, and decided to go to a tempura place we thought would take credit cards.
But the travel Gods were not done toying with us yet. Somehow we managed to get ourselves all turned around and lost trying to find this new place. By now we were getting hungry and cranky with each other when a nice man on the street offered help and pointed us in the right direction.
Along the way we found a Citibank ATM and got some cash then wandered more in search of restaurant. Addresses are pretty much useless unless you have a clue as to how they work (and we really did not, even with all I’d read about them). Street signs in English are difficult to find at times.
Right as I said, “we’re never going to find this place unless we happen to see a sign with the name on it in English” there it was, literally right next to where we were standing.
Upon entering the main branch of Tsunahachi in Shinjuku, you are greeted politely and asked if you want to sit in the smoking or non-smoking section. The restaurant has two floors, both with an identical layout of long counter, regular tables and a tatami mat room with low tables. The non-smoking section is upstairs and we were led to two seats at the counter, right next to the tatami mat room and where we could watch the two men behind the counter cook. The waitresses place a linen napkin over your coat on the back of your chair to keep the smell of the fryer off it which was a nice touch.
The menu is extensive and after the trials and tribulations of getting there we took the easy way out and each got a “set” which included large shrimp, squid, small shrimp, various vegetables and miso soup. Watching the cooks was a fascinating lesson in economy of motion. They are clearly professionals.
The tempura was light and greaseless; absolutely sublime. The vegetables were perfectly cooked. The shrimp were so fresh they were still moving when they were cut and prepped for the batter. Our bowl of miso soup include thumbnail sized clams in the bottom. After a slightly frustrating start to the evening, we ended it very satisfied. Dinner for two, including beer was 5290 yen.
http://www.tunahachi.co.jp/en/index.html
(note that is the correct spelling of the web site, even though the name of the restaurant has an “s” in it.They have 6 branches in Tokyo and the one we went to was the original.
3-31-8 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku.
We later learned there is one in “Hiltopia” the mall beneath the hotel we were staying in, the Tokyo Hilton.
Tsunahachi (tempura)</b>
Our plan for dinner was to have Yakatori in an area near Shinjuku station affectionately nicknamed “piss alley.” This is actually two narrow streets packed with teeny-tiny hole-in-the-wall places. After peeking inside most of them, we finally picked one and sat down. Then we realized we didn't have nearly enough cash on us and left to find an ATM.
Unfortunately this became one of those travel experiences that can happen on any trip; the ridiculous walking in circles trying to find a machine which would take our card and give us cash. At some point it became comical and then it just became frustrating.
Inside Shinjuku station, there were ATMs, but none of the open ones worked for us. When there is usually a convenience store on every corner, tonight we could not find one 7-11 to save our lives. Finally, we gave up, looked at my notes, and decided to go to a tempura place we thought would take credit cards.
But the travel Gods were not done toying with us yet. Somehow we managed to get ourselves all turned around and lost trying to find this new place. By now we were getting hungry and cranky with each other when a nice man on the street offered help and pointed us in the right direction.
Along the way we found a Citibank ATM and got some cash then wandered more in search of restaurant. Addresses are pretty much useless unless you have a clue as to how they work (and we really did not, even with all I’d read about them). Street signs in English are difficult to find at times.
Right as I said, “we’re never going to find this place unless we happen to see a sign with the name on it in English” there it was, literally right next to where we were standing.
Upon entering the main branch of Tsunahachi in Shinjuku, you are greeted politely and asked if you want to sit in the smoking or non-smoking section. The restaurant has two floors, both with an identical layout of long counter, regular tables and a tatami mat room with low tables. The non-smoking section is upstairs and we were led to two seats at the counter, right next to the tatami mat room and where we could watch the two men behind the counter cook. The waitresses place a linen napkin over your coat on the back of your chair to keep the smell of the fryer off it which was a nice touch.
The menu is extensive and after the trials and tribulations of getting there we took the easy way out and each got a “set” which included large shrimp, squid, small shrimp, various vegetables and miso soup. Watching the cooks was a fascinating lesson in economy of motion. They are clearly professionals.
The tempura was light and greaseless; absolutely sublime. The vegetables were perfectly cooked. The shrimp were so fresh they were still moving when they were cut and prepped for the batter. Our bowl of miso soup include thumbnail sized clams in the bottom. After a slightly frustrating start to the evening, we ended it very satisfied. Dinner for two, including beer was 5290 yen.
http://www.tunahachi.co.jp/en/index.html
(note that is the correct spelling of the web site, even though the name of the restaurant has an “s” in it.They have 6 branches in Tokyo and the one we went to was the original.
3-31-8 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku.
We later learned there is one in “Hiltopia” the mall beneath the hotel we were staying in, the Tokyo Hilton.
May 18th, 2011, 07:08 AM
#47
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LCI- Honestly, I didn't know that much about Japanese food before planning this trip, but I am now a total convert! We ate nothing but Japanese food (even though there are plenty of other options in Tokyo) the entire trip and never got bored.
Photos from both restaurants are now on my blog:
http://www.wired2theworld.com/2011/0...nd-tsunahachi/
Photos from both restaurants are now on my blog:
http://www.wired2theworld.com/2011/0...nd-tsunahachi/
May 23rd, 2011, 05:38 PM
#48
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<b>Tokyo's Harajuku Girls and Rockabilly Boys</b>
On our first Sunday in Tokyo, we took the metro to Harajuku station. We’d heard on Sundays that people (mostly girls) like to get dressed up in cosplay and various Lolita type costumes (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gothic_lolita) and that a nearby street, Takashita Dori might be fun to walk around. We were completely unprepared for what we found. The area around the station was just packed with people shoulder to shoulder and some of the costumes were seriously over the top. The favorite of the day seemed to be the Strawberry themed “Sweet Lolita” characters, but we also saw plenty of Gothic Lolitas and a couple sailor types.
Takashita Dori is a pedestrian only street loaded with cheap clothing shops and fast food places catering to local teens. We stopped for the popular snack of a crepe loaded with fruit and ice cream (disappointing and chewy). Savory crepes appeared popular as well. While eating our crepes we happened to see one of the areas’s well known local characters an old man in an odd outfit, complete with live fish in glass bowls hanging from his ears.
Over near the entrance to Yoyogi Park were the rockabilly boys who have portable music players blasting 50’s rock music. These guys all wear similar tight jeans, pompadour hair, pointy shoes and move to very specific stylized dance moves. There’s also a small subset wearing saddle shoes and poodle skirts.They stand in circles dancing with their group and there are 3 or 4 groups in this wide plaza area. It was hard to tell if they were competing or just doing their own thing. David said he remembers them from when he was here as a kid, and by all looks, some of these guys appeared old enough to have been here the first time David was here 25+ years ago.
Across from the park is the Olympic Stadium and the area in front was packed with thousands of Lolita dressed girls. It did look like some sort of convention was going on there, complete with admission lines to go inside the building, but it was hard to determine because few of the signs were in English.
A week later we were in this neighborhood again and hardly saw anyone dressed up so in the end we don’t know how often this happens. Friends told us when they were here last Fall, there didn’t see anyone dressed up.
On our first Sunday in Tokyo, we took the metro to Harajuku station. We’d heard on Sundays that people (mostly girls) like to get dressed up in cosplay and various Lolita type costumes (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gothic_lolita) and that a nearby street, Takashita Dori might be fun to walk around. We were completely unprepared for what we found. The area around the station was just packed with people shoulder to shoulder and some of the costumes were seriously over the top. The favorite of the day seemed to be the Strawberry themed “Sweet Lolita” characters, but we also saw plenty of Gothic Lolitas and a couple sailor types.
Takashita Dori is a pedestrian only street loaded with cheap clothing shops and fast food places catering to local teens. We stopped for the popular snack of a crepe loaded with fruit and ice cream (disappointing and chewy). Savory crepes appeared popular as well. While eating our crepes we happened to see one of the areas’s well known local characters an old man in an odd outfit, complete with live fish in glass bowls hanging from his ears.
Over near the entrance to Yoyogi Park were the rockabilly boys who have portable music players blasting 50’s rock music. These guys all wear similar tight jeans, pompadour hair, pointy shoes and move to very specific stylized dance moves. There’s also a small subset wearing saddle shoes and poodle skirts.They stand in circles dancing with their group and there are 3 or 4 groups in this wide plaza area. It was hard to tell if they were competing or just doing their own thing. David said he remembers them from when he was here as a kid, and by all looks, some of these guys appeared old enough to have been here the first time David was here 25+ years ago.
Across from the park is the Olympic Stadium and the area in front was packed with thousands of Lolita dressed girls. It did look like some sort of convention was going on there, complete with admission lines to go inside the building, but it was hard to determine because few of the signs were in English.
A week later we were in this neighborhood again and hardly saw anyone dressed up so in the end we don’t know how often this happens. Friends told us when they were here last Fall, there didn’t see anyone dressed up.
May 24th, 2011, 05:14 AM
#49
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Photos of those crazy kids are now on my blog:
http://www.wired2theworld.com/2011/0...ckabilly-boys/
http://www.wired2theworld.com/2011/0...ckabilly-boys/
May 24th, 2011, 07:06 AM
#51
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<i>One question, do you know why they dress up? Some of the outfits were pretty elaborate!</i>
Because they are young and expressing themselves....at least that's what I used to tell my parents when I was their age. For a better explanation than I have time to type right now read this thread for a unique look at the info you seek:
http://tinyurl.com/3sx6qk3
Aloha!
Because they are young and expressing themselves....at least that's what I used to tell my parents when I was their age. For a better explanation than I have time to type right now read this thread for a unique look at the info you seek:
http://tinyurl.com/3sx6qk3
Aloha!
May 25th, 2011, 05:35 AM
#52
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LCI-Like for teenagers everywhere, I think it's just a way of fitting into a group, getting attention, and as HT says, "expressing" themselves.
HT-thanks for posting that link.
Does anyone know if this is still an every Sunday occurance? We went the next Sunday and hardly saw anyone in costume and friends who went in February said they did not see anyone either.
HT-thanks for posting that link.
Does anyone know if this is still an every Sunday occurance? We went the next Sunday and hardly saw anyone in costume and friends who went in February said they did not see anyone either.
May 25th, 2011, 08:59 AM
#53
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The crowds you had on your first Sunday in Harajuku was surely some kind of sale or event(probably a cosplay event)in the area. You were lucky to witness it. Sundays in Harajuku are crowded but not thronging unless an event is happening and from your pictures it looks like an event was taking place. Wish I could read the sign hanging across Takeshita Dori in one of your pics as it probably explains what's happening. Maybe someone who can read Japanese will tell us.
Yes, Sunday is the best day to see cosplayers in Harajuku/Yoyogi Park but keep in mind that Shinjuku(East side near Kabuki-cho)is also a good place for cosplayers to show their stuff and stores there compete for the cosplayers and the crowds they attract on Sundays. You see coplayers in Shinjuku strutting their stuff along with wedding couples in full dress parading the area stores latest bridal fashions as they parade around the blocks.
You probably noticed that a few stores on Takeshita Dori sell the clothes and accessories that every cosplayer needs and that a cosplayer needs to have a lot of money to buy these items.
Did you make it down to Omotesando and the Omotesando Hills shopping area about a block away? Kind of like the Japanese version of Rodeo Dr. It's where the parents of the cosplayers do their Sunday shopping
Aloha!
Yes, Sunday is the best day to see cosplayers in Harajuku/Yoyogi Park but keep in mind that Shinjuku(East side near Kabuki-cho)is also a good place for cosplayers to show their stuff and stores there compete for the cosplayers and the crowds they attract on Sundays. You see coplayers in Shinjuku strutting their stuff along with wedding couples in full dress parading the area stores latest bridal fashions as they parade around the blocks.
You probably noticed that a few stores on Takeshita Dori sell the clothes and accessories that every cosplayer needs and that a cosplayer needs to have a lot of money to buy these items.
Did you make it down to Omotesando and the Omotesando Hills shopping area about a block away? Kind of like the Japanese version of Rodeo Dr. It's where the parents of the cosplayers do their Sunday shopping
Aloha!
May 25th, 2011, 02:47 PM
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The banner is an advertising banner for Nikonikohonsha, a company that has cages, shop, video, many branches it seems. http://www.nicovideo.jp/honsha_shop is their shop. Nikoniko means smile smile, like look cute for a photo.
Great report Kristina.
Great report Kristina.
May 30th, 2011, 08:18 PM
#55
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<b>A Tale of Two Breakfasts in Tokyo's Tsukiji Fish Market
Monday in Tokyo</b>
Despite waking up in the wee hours of the morning, we got a later than expected start. Walking to Shinjuku station during the morning rush hour is like fish swimming upstream against the crush of people headed for work in the surrounding office buildings. Inside the station, where we planned to find the JR office and activate our rail passes was chaos. There was no break in the torrent of people coming up from the train and subway lines. The sheer quantity of people inside the station had my claustrophobia button kicking in. We finally found the JR office near the south entrance of the station, but it does not open until 9am so we waited, first in line. Our passes were activated by two 2 people with many stamps and signatures, and finally we had our seat reservations for Kyoto and the return.
Our plan was to go to the Tsukiji Fish market but we weren't in a hurry since I'd read that visitors we not currently allowed inside the popular early morning tuna auction. The number of visitors allowed inside has been limited for a while now, and after the earthquake some people were saying the vendors (some of whom don't like tourists in the market) had been lobbying to keep them out all together. So, while it's a good idea to get their early because the inside section of the market with the fresh fish seems to start packing it up after 10am, we didn't feel the need to get there at the crack of dawn.
The Toei Oedo metro line (the pink one on the map) goes from Shinjuku station to Tsukiji station and upon exiting, turn left and the entrance to the market is right around the corner. It's a pretty vast area and it took a little while to figure out what was going on and where things were. There are side "streets" inside the market area selling dry goods, restaurant supplies and housing some small restaurants. Here we saw the famous "Sushi Dai" restaurant with its notorious 2 hour wait. At about 9:30 am there were about 12 people waiting in line outside and all appeared to be foreigners. We decided to forgo the wait and get some food now so we picked a place a couple of doors down with no wait (which I later figured out was the equally well known Daiwa Sushi), seats at the counter and a sushi chef with a welcome smile and a small amount of helpful English.
It's funny how when I travel my notions of a typical breakfast go out the window. Perhaps it's having my body in a different time zone, but I have no problems eating raw fish or a bowl of noodles for breakfast when that's what's for breakfast where I am. The smiling man behind the counter suggested that we could share a set sushi menu so that's what we did. The set included tuna, squid, uni, unagi, halibut, miso soup and more and was just the perfect amount to get us started. Was it the best sushi I've ever had? No, but the fish was impeccably fresh and the service was quick and friendly. It was pricy at 3600 yen, that that price was comparable in other places for what we got, however less expensive sushi can be found.
We were in and out in about 20 minutes, anxious to get into the main fish market. Outside, the line of tourists at Sushi Dai had not moved at all.
Monday in Tokyo</b>
Despite waking up in the wee hours of the morning, we got a later than expected start. Walking to Shinjuku station during the morning rush hour is like fish swimming upstream against the crush of people headed for work in the surrounding office buildings. Inside the station, where we planned to find the JR office and activate our rail passes was chaos. There was no break in the torrent of people coming up from the train and subway lines. The sheer quantity of people inside the station had my claustrophobia button kicking in. We finally found the JR office near the south entrance of the station, but it does not open until 9am so we waited, first in line. Our passes were activated by two 2 people with many stamps and signatures, and finally we had our seat reservations for Kyoto and the return.
Our plan was to go to the Tsukiji Fish market but we weren't in a hurry since I'd read that visitors we not currently allowed inside the popular early morning tuna auction. The number of visitors allowed inside has been limited for a while now, and after the earthquake some people were saying the vendors (some of whom don't like tourists in the market) had been lobbying to keep them out all together. So, while it's a good idea to get their early because the inside section of the market with the fresh fish seems to start packing it up after 10am, we didn't feel the need to get there at the crack of dawn.
The Toei Oedo metro line (the pink one on the map) goes from Shinjuku station to Tsukiji station and upon exiting, turn left and the entrance to the market is right around the corner. It's a pretty vast area and it took a little while to figure out what was going on and where things were. There are side "streets" inside the market area selling dry goods, restaurant supplies and housing some small restaurants. Here we saw the famous "Sushi Dai" restaurant with its notorious 2 hour wait. At about 9:30 am there were about 12 people waiting in line outside and all appeared to be foreigners. We decided to forgo the wait and get some food now so we picked a place a couple of doors down with no wait (which I later figured out was the equally well known Daiwa Sushi), seats at the counter and a sushi chef with a welcome smile and a small amount of helpful English.
It's funny how when I travel my notions of a typical breakfast go out the window. Perhaps it's having my body in a different time zone, but I have no problems eating raw fish or a bowl of noodles for breakfast when that's what's for breakfast where I am. The smiling man behind the counter suggested that we could share a set sushi menu so that's what we did. The set included tuna, squid, uni, unagi, halibut, miso soup and more and was just the perfect amount to get us started. Was it the best sushi I've ever had? No, but the fish was impeccably fresh and the service was quick and friendly. It was pricy at 3600 yen, that that price was comparable in other places for what we got, however less expensive sushi can be found.
We were in and out in about 20 minutes, anxious to get into the main fish market. Outside, the line of tourists at Sushi Dai had not moved at all.
May 30th, 2011, 08:21 PM
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A guy running a stall selling cleaning supplies across from the restaurant struck up a conversation with us. He pointed to another tiny restaurant across from him and said, “eat there, where the men in rubber boots eat.” We peeked inside and the smells were amazing. It's a noodle place and was indeed filled with guys who obviously worked in the market. We took note and set off to see the fish. First stop was a shrine inside the market.
Inside the market was still pretty frenetic, with guys whizzing around on forklifts (DO be aware and stay out of their way) but many of the vendors were starting to clean up their stalls and put away their product. I actually enjoyed watching their process of hosing down the counters, scrubbing the floors and sharpening their knives for the next day. Contrary to what I'd read, this did not appear to be only a wholesale market, I saw plenty of people who looked like ordinary local shoppers. There is also a produce section to the market and that was still in full swing as we walked through it.
The enticing smell from the noodle restaurant called us back and after walking the market we went and got 2 seats at the counter. The place is no more than 8 feet wide, counter only stretching from one street to the next. There was absolutely nothing in English (no signs or menus) and no one spoke any either, so this presented a little challenge at first. We looked around at what others were eating and David pointed to what the guy next to us was having, some type dry noodles with pork. Almost everyone else was having a noodle soup with very large clams in it. We used David’s phone with its translation app to ask for “soup with noodles with meat, no clams” for me.
David's noodles arrived first and they turned out to be cold, with a vinegar type sauce, sliced pork, cucumbers, pickled radish and a dab of yellow mustard on the plate. They were excellent. My soup came out a few minutes later and it was the one with the clams. So much for the translation app. No matter, I enjoyed it even though it was not what I’d originally asked for. The soup had a pat of butter on top adding a depth and richness to the already incredibly flavorful broth. It was loaded with slivered fresh leeks and springy yellow noodles. Even the clams were wonderful, though how could they not be there in the fish market? We were given green tea and water. The bill was 1800 yen and shown to us on a calculator.
Outside, we spoke to the guy who had recommended this place and he said the soup one typically only served in the spring and summer and is called Asari Ramen. In autumn and winter they serve Kaki Ramen (with oysters).
Bellies full from our two breakfasts we left the market for our next destination, the Asakusa neighborhood and the Senso-ji Temple....
Inside the market was still pretty frenetic, with guys whizzing around on forklifts (DO be aware and stay out of their way) but many of the vendors were starting to clean up their stalls and put away their product. I actually enjoyed watching their process of hosing down the counters, scrubbing the floors and sharpening their knives for the next day. Contrary to what I'd read, this did not appear to be only a wholesale market, I saw plenty of people who looked like ordinary local shoppers. There is also a produce section to the market and that was still in full swing as we walked through it.
The enticing smell from the noodle restaurant called us back and after walking the market we went and got 2 seats at the counter. The place is no more than 8 feet wide, counter only stretching from one street to the next. There was absolutely nothing in English (no signs or menus) and no one spoke any either, so this presented a little challenge at first. We looked around at what others were eating and David pointed to what the guy next to us was having, some type dry noodles with pork. Almost everyone else was having a noodle soup with very large clams in it. We used David’s phone with its translation app to ask for “soup with noodles with meat, no clams” for me.
David's noodles arrived first and they turned out to be cold, with a vinegar type sauce, sliced pork, cucumbers, pickled radish and a dab of yellow mustard on the plate. They were excellent. My soup came out a few minutes later and it was the one with the clams. So much for the translation app. No matter, I enjoyed it even though it was not what I’d originally asked for. The soup had a pat of butter on top adding a depth and richness to the already incredibly flavorful broth. It was loaded with slivered fresh leeks and springy yellow noodles. Even the clams were wonderful, though how could they not be there in the fish market? We were given green tea and water. The bill was 1800 yen and shown to us on a calculator.
Outside, we spoke to the guy who had recommended this place and he said the soup one typically only served in the spring and summer and is called Asari Ramen. In autumn and winter they serve Kaki Ramen (with oysters).
Bellies full from our two breakfasts we left the market for our next destination, the Asakusa neighborhood and the Senso-ji Temple....
May 31st, 2011, 06:03 AM
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Photos from the fish market and the two breakfasts are now up on my blog:
http://www.wired2theworld.com/2011/0...i-fish-market/
http://www.wired2theworld.com/2011/0...i-fish-market/
Jun 10th, 2011, 11:12 AM
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A Visit to Senso-ji Temple in Tokyo
After our two breakfasts at Tsukiji market, we took the subway to the Asukasa neighborhood. We stopped in the tourism office, where we picked up a local map and were asked where we were from, which was duly recorded. They said they had not had many foreign visitors lately, though today had been a big one with 13 visitors. From there, we walked across the street to the Senso-ji temple.
Senso-ji temple is one of Tokyo’s most popular shrines, and dates back as far as AD 628 when a local fisherman found a gold statue of the goddess of mercy, Kannon, in the Sumida River and built a small shrine to her here. Like most shrines, it has a large heavy entrance, the Kaminarimon Gate, and multiple pagodas and halls inside the complex. Between the Kaminarimon Gate and the main hall, are a series of shops selling al sorts of Japanese treats, traditional clothing and souvenirs. In front of the main hall is a large incense burner where people pray over the smoke and to the left, a beautiful garden with a koi pond and Buddha statue.
We walked around for a while, taking it all in, and came across a special art show connected to the museum and the abbot’s residence. We were told this was only open to the public for a month and allowed access to the inside gardens which are normally closed. There were no photos allowed inside the museum which had many beautiful painted wooden screens, carvings and a large dragon used in processions. The exit to the museum led into the garden which was absolutly gorgeous, surrounding a pond with a traditional house on the side. We especially loved the view of the Five-Story Pagoda from inside the private garden.
Leaving the temple, we headed toward Kapabashi-dori, the “kitchenware street” which is loaded with all sorts of restaurant supply stores. Along the way we passed all sorts of other shops, including one with odd (not to them is my guess, just to us) t-shirts and some neat graffiti-style signs.
Kapabashi-dori was interesting, but we were very tired and sore from all the walking and just could not get into it at the time so I don’t have any photos specific to there.
For dinner, we headed out into the neighborhood around Shinjuku station to a restaurant called Watami. It inhabits floors 3-6 of an office building, so take the elevaor up. Watami is an Izakaya style restaurant, meaning it offers dozens of small plates which go well with beer, specifically Suntory Malt beer, the beverage of choice there. I had this place on my list because they are open late, until 3 am and on Fridays and Saturdays, until 5 am. However, we were not partying and went at a respectable 9 pm. the place is a warren of small rooms and we were seated in a “non-smoking” room with 6 tables, two of them already filled.
The first menus we received were all in Japanese, but there are pictures for everything to help you figure out what to order. Later we were brought English menus which helped a little. I noticed the prices on the two menus were different and finally figured out the one in English included tax in the menu prices.
We ordered the Suntory malt beer, of course, along with some gyoza, fried small fish (very much like smelt) and barbecued pork belly. We enjoyed it all, even though the fish were a little over-fried. I would love to come to a place like this with a big group so we could try lots of different things.
Watami, Nishi-Shinjuku 1-13-1, Kesa Bldg 3-6F. Open 5pm-3am (Fri, Sat -5am) daily. Open Sundays. http://www.bento.com/rev/3200.html
Photos are on my blog; http://www.wired2theworld.com/2011/0...mple-in-tokyo/
After our two breakfasts at Tsukiji market, we took the subway to the Asukasa neighborhood. We stopped in the tourism office, where we picked up a local map and were asked where we were from, which was duly recorded. They said they had not had many foreign visitors lately, though today had been a big one with 13 visitors. From there, we walked across the street to the Senso-ji temple.
Senso-ji temple is one of Tokyo’s most popular shrines, and dates back as far as AD 628 when a local fisherman found a gold statue of the goddess of mercy, Kannon, in the Sumida River and built a small shrine to her here. Like most shrines, it has a large heavy entrance, the Kaminarimon Gate, and multiple pagodas and halls inside the complex. Between the Kaminarimon Gate and the main hall, are a series of shops selling al sorts of Japanese treats, traditional clothing and souvenirs. In front of the main hall is a large incense burner where people pray over the smoke and to the left, a beautiful garden with a koi pond and Buddha statue.
We walked around for a while, taking it all in, and came across a special art show connected to the museum and the abbot’s residence. We were told this was only open to the public for a month and allowed access to the inside gardens which are normally closed. There were no photos allowed inside the museum which had many beautiful painted wooden screens, carvings and a large dragon used in processions. The exit to the museum led into the garden which was absolutly gorgeous, surrounding a pond with a traditional house on the side. We especially loved the view of the Five-Story Pagoda from inside the private garden.
Leaving the temple, we headed toward Kapabashi-dori, the “kitchenware street” which is loaded with all sorts of restaurant supply stores. Along the way we passed all sorts of other shops, including one with odd (not to them is my guess, just to us) t-shirts and some neat graffiti-style signs.
Kapabashi-dori was interesting, but we were very tired and sore from all the walking and just could not get into it at the time so I don’t have any photos specific to there.
For dinner, we headed out into the neighborhood around Shinjuku station to a restaurant called Watami. It inhabits floors 3-6 of an office building, so take the elevaor up. Watami is an Izakaya style restaurant, meaning it offers dozens of small plates which go well with beer, specifically Suntory Malt beer, the beverage of choice there. I had this place on my list because they are open late, until 3 am and on Fridays and Saturdays, until 5 am. However, we were not partying and went at a respectable 9 pm. the place is a warren of small rooms and we were seated in a “non-smoking” room with 6 tables, two of them already filled.
The first menus we received were all in Japanese, but there are pictures for everything to help you figure out what to order. Later we were brought English menus which helped a little. I noticed the prices on the two menus were different and finally figured out the one in English included tax in the menu prices.
We ordered the Suntory malt beer, of course, along with some gyoza, fried small fish (very much like smelt) and barbecued pork belly. We enjoyed it all, even though the fish were a little over-fried. I would love to come to a place like this with a big group so we could try lots of different things.
Watami, Nishi-Shinjuku 1-13-1, Kesa Bldg 3-6F. Open 5pm-3am (Fri, Sat -5am) daily. Open Sundays. http://www.bento.com/rev/3200.html
Photos are on my blog; http://www.wired2theworld.com/2011/0...mple-in-tokyo/
Jun 11th, 2011, 01:26 PM
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Fodor's friends:
After the earthquake and tsunami in Japan I was asked to contribute a recipe and photo to a cookbook filled with family friendly Japanese recipes from 50+ food bloggers and cookbook authors.
The book is now for sale!
It's called "PEKO PEKO: Family Friendly Japanese Recipes ~A Cookbook to Support Japan's Recovery"
http://www.blurb.com/bookstore/detail/2241278
Everything was donated except for printing and shipping costs, so all profits--$11.45 of every sale--will be donated to the GlobalGiving Japan Earthquake and Tsunami Relief Fund.
After the earthquake and tsunami in Japan I was asked to contribute a recipe and photo to a cookbook filled with family friendly Japanese recipes from 50+ food bloggers and cookbook authors.
The book is now for sale!
It's called "PEKO PEKO: Family Friendly Japanese Recipes ~A Cookbook to Support Japan's Recovery"
http://www.blurb.com/bookstore/detail/2241278
Everything was donated except for printing and shipping costs, so all profits--$11.45 of every sale--will be donated to the GlobalGiving Japan Earthquake and Tsunami Relief Fund.
