Not your usual trip report - INSTEAD, a PRE-TRIP report
Nov 29th, 2005, 05:48 PM
#21
Lodging can be a trip highlight unto itself. But I wasn’t interested in four- or five-star hotels that might as well be located in any city in the world. I wanted ambience, local color, a comfortable bed, a clean room, a good location, and a reasonable price. (I wanted it ALL!) 
I did my Fodor’s research, used hotel websites (huahin, aisarooms, etc.), looked in guidebooks (mostly Frommer’s), and checked out the Lonely Planet newsgroup. I followed up on every place recommended in a trip report, and compiled a list of possible places. I posted the list here and got input from Fodorites. Then I began making reservations. I did it all over the web or via email, and I’m really happy about every single spot (although remember, I haven't seen any of them yet)...
- Centre Point Silom in Bangkok is a one bedroom apartment with a river view for $81 a night. The location sounds ideal (next to the Shangri-La) and the web pictures look wonderful. I thought for five nights, we'd really enjoy the extra room that an apartment would provide.
- Fern Resort in Mae Hong Son appears to be the epitome of a Thai resort, with views of rice fields and lush vegetation. I had to rearrange my schedule to stay here because my first choice of dates was booked. I’m hoping it will be worth it. At $42 a night for a suite, I can’t imagine it won’t be!
- Baan Orapin in Chiang Mai came highly recommended here on Fodor’s. I corresponded directly with the hotel via email. The website is amazing – it looks gorgeous. We’re spending $40 a night.
- Sayo Guesthouse in Luang Prabang was the toughest to get booked. I emailed several places in Luang Prabang and heard back from two or three, but it took several days. Sayo was my first choice (and highly recommended by Alan here on Fodor’s), and when I finally heard from them I went for it. At Alan’s suggestion, I splurged on the huge front room for $60 a night.
- La Villa Loti in Siem Reap has one of the best websites I saw. I can’t remember how I found it – don’t believe it was recommended here. But I’m booked at $45 a night, and Daniel was very helpful in making the arrangements and sending us information about visas and so on. The $45 includes transfer from the airport.
- And lastly, we’re returning to Centre Point Silom for our final two nights in Bangkok. This time I settled for a city view apartment for $75 a night.
Total lodging costs for 19 nights: $1114.
Ok, we’ve gotten our flights and our hotels are booked. Now for the fun part... what to see, what to do, where to eat – and how to arrange the details.
I did my Fodor’s research, used hotel websites (huahin, aisarooms, etc.), looked in guidebooks (mostly Frommer’s), and checked out the Lonely Planet newsgroup. I followed up on every place recommended in a trip report, and compiled a list of possible places. I posted the list here and got input from Fodorites. Then I began making reservations. I did it all over the web or via email, and I’m really happy about every single spot (although remember, I haven't seen any of them yet)...- Centre Point Silom in Bangkok is a one bedroom apartment with a river view for $81 a night. The location sounds ideal (next to the Shangri-La) and the web pictures look wonderful. I thought for five nights, we'd really enjoy the extra room that an apartment would provide.
- Fern Resort in Mae Hong Son appears to be the epitome of a Thai resort, with views of rice fields and lush vegetation. I had to rearrange my schedule to stay here because my first choice of dates was booked. I’m hoping it will be worth it. At $42 a night for a suite, I can’t imagine it won’t be!
- Baan Orapin in Chiang Mai came highly recommended here on Fodor’s. I corresponded directly with the hotel via email. The website is amazing – it looks gorgeous. We’re spending $40 a night.
- Sayo Guesthouse in Luang Prabang was the toughest to get booked. I emailed several places in Luang Prabang and heard back from two or three, but it took several days. Sayo was my first choice (and highly recommended by Alan here on Fodor’s), and when I finally heard from them I went for it. At Alan’s suggestion, I splurged on the huge front room for $60 a night.
- La Villa Loti in Siem Reap has one of the best websites I saw. I can’t remember how I found it – don’t believe it was recommended here. But I’m booked at $45 a night, and Daniel was very helpful in making the arrangements and sending us information about visas and so on. The $45 includes transfer from the airport.
- And lastly, we’re returning to Centre Point Silom for our final two nights in Bangkok. This time I settled for a city view apartment for $75 a night.
Total lodging costs for 19 nights: $1114.
Ok, we’ve gotten our flights and our hotels are booked. Now for the fun part... what to see, what to do, where to eat – and how to arrange the details.
Nov 29th, 2005, 05:56 PM
#22
Forgot to include the tip!
TIP 9: Research, research, research. Get ideas from Fodor trip reports. Browse hotel booking sites. Then post your proposals to Fodor's and get input. Be sure to indicate your budget and what's important to you in a hotel - you'll get lots of good advice. Do your own bookings online, and don't hesitate to email small guesthouses and ask specific questions.
TIP 9: Research, research, research. Get ideas from Fodor trip reports. Browse hotel booking sites. Then post your proposals to Fodor's and get input. Be sure to indicate your budget and what's important to you in a hotel - you'll get lots of good advice. Do your own bookings online, and don't hesitate to email small guesthouses and ask specific questions.
Nov 29th, 2005, 06:32 PM
#23
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Karen,
It sounds like it's going to be a great trip!
I had to laugh at the part about your daughter being
" a hippie-child of the ‘60s born in the wrong decade who is trying to find herself. "
We have a daughter who fits that description, too!
What's a parent to do?!
We're planning a trip to Hong Kong and Thailand in January, and I've been watching your posts as you've planned your trip, and you've saved me the trouble of asking a lot of the same questions. Thanks!
Gloria,
Thanks for the book suggestions- I just ordered Four Reigns and Letters from Thailand from Amazon. Now I know I'll have enough reading material for those long flights.
It sounds like it's going to be a great trip!
I had to laugh at the part about your daughter being
" a hippie-child of the ‘60s born in the wrong decade who is trying to find herself. "
We have a daughter who fits that description, too!
What's a parent to do?!
We're planning a trip to Hong Kong and Thailand in January, and I've been watching your posts as you've planned your trip, and you've saved me the trouble of asking a lot of the same questions. Thanks!
Gloria,
Thanks for the book suggestions- I just ordered Four Reigns and Letters from Thailand from Amazon. Now I know I'll have enough reading material for those long flights.
Nov 29th, 2005, 07:38 PM
#24
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karen....as a gift to yourself, besides the ones you will buy on the trip, leave for CA one day in advance and stay overnite in SF...
by the way i have reserved a wonderful pair of gold and blue saphire earings for you in bangkok....they are paid for....all you have to do is find the jewelry store i purchased them from....
i am so disappointed in your actual fodors name---the meaning behind it....i was sure it was the name of your country home in the english countryside...oh well...your father is honored!!!
by the way i have reserved a wonderful pair of gold and blue saphire earings for you in bangkok....they are paid for....all you have to do is find the jewelry store i purchased them from....
i am so disappointed in your actual fodors name---the meaning behind it....i was sure it was the name of your country home in the english countryside...oh well...your father is honored!!!
Nov 30th, 2005, 03:52 AM
#25
Yes, I'm starting to think I should change the flight to SF to the day before and stay the night. Everything would probably be fine... except for my psyche, and I'd be a total wreck worrying about it!
Oh, and did I forget to mention that AlThom Acres was also the name of our country estate in Devonshire?
Oh, and did I forget to mention that AlThom Acres was also the name of our country estate in Devonshire?
Nov 30th, 2005, 05:41 AM
#26
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Karen -- I second Bob's suggestion that you go to SF a day early. I always do that because my nerves can't take the thought of missing the connection. I have a feeling you're enough like me to end up a wreck over it so give yourself the extra day.
Nov 30th, 2005, 03:02 PM
#27
Yes, and the problem is it's different airlines - so if AirTran is late and I miss the Eva flight, Eva is under no obligation to get me to Bangkok! I should probably change my AirTran flight... I'll look into it.
I'll continue with my report later tonight or tomorrow!
I'll continue with my report later tonight or tomorrow!
Dec 3rd, 2005, 03:03 PM
#28
With the logistics all set, I turned my attention to the fun stuff.
Armed with tips from Fodor’s, I began winnowing down my list of must-sees for Bangkok. I read Fodor’s, Lonely Planet, and various web sites, and I looked at pictures, both in books and on the web. Most guidebooks aren’t sufficient for me - I need more than just a description of a bunch of sites, all of which are apparently deemed equal. I need either a picture or a recommendation – as in, “don’t miss this,” or “this is only for those with a special interest in this subject.” So between the pictures I looked at and the personal recommendations from here on the board (I really trust you all!), I came up with my list. Next I checked a map (in Frommer’s guidebook) to group things that seemed to be near one another. Here’s what I came up with (after a little tweaking from Fodorites) -
Day 1 - Jim Thompson House (lunch), MBK mall (via Skytrain)
Day 2 - Grand Palace/Wat Phra Kaeo, Wat Pho and if time and energy permit, the National Museum (via river boat)
Day 3 – Floating Market, shopping (TBD) in afternoon (Julietaxi in morning)
Day 4 – Wat Ben, Vimanmek Teak Mansion, Wat Traimit, and Chinatown (taxi)
Day 5 – (at end of trip) Klong tour, Wat Arun, shopping, Cabaret Calypso
Day 6 – Anything we may have missed, last-minute shopping
A big dilemma was whether to book a driver (probably Ratt) for a day or two. After reading every post I could find on the subject, I thought I understood the pros – Ratt makes it easy; she drops you off and picks you up right at the door and she has cold water and wet towels waiting in her air-conditioned car. And the cons – a bit more expensive, the boat ride to the Grand Palace is fabulous (better than a taxi ride), and Ratt may try to talk you into things you didn’t intend to do (with the best of intentions). I decided we’d do just as well by using river boats, the Skytrain, and taxis when we needed them. I’ll let you know how it works.
TIP 9: Be selective in what you want to see – don’t try to do too much in a day is a mistake (a tip that’s hard for me to resist!). Run your plans by the Fodor’s gang and heed their advice. Pictures are especially helpful in determining your must-see list. I'm convinced there's no substitute for doing your homework!
Plans for Chiang Mai were next on the agenda.
Armed with tips from Fodor’s, I began winnowing down my list of must-sees for Bangkok. I read Fodor’s, Lonely Planet, and various web sites, and I looked at pictures, both in books and on the web. Most guidebooks aren’t sufficient for me - I need more than just a description of a bunch of sites, all of which are apparently deemed equal. I need either a picture or a recommendation – as in, “don’t miss this,” or “this is only for those with a special interest in this subject.” So between the pictures I looked at and the personal recommendations from here on the board (I really trust you all!), I came up with my list. Next I checked a map (in Frommer’s guidebook) to group things that seemed to be near one another. Here’s what I came up with (after a little tweaking from Fodorites) -
Day 1 - Jim Thompson House (lunch), MBK mall (via Skytrain)
Day 2 - Grand Palace/Wat Phra Kaeo, Wat Pho and if time and energy permit, the National Museum (via river boat)
Day 3 – Floating Market, shopping (TBD) in afternoon (Julietaxi in morning)
Day 4 – Wat Ben, Vimanmek Teak Mansion, Wat Traimit, and Chinatown (taxi)
Day 5 – (at end of trip) Klong tour, Wat Arun, shopping, Cabaret Calypso
Day 6 – Anything we may have missed, last-minute shopping
A big dilemma was whether to book a driver (probably Ratt) for a day or two. After reading every post I could find on the subject, I thought I understood the pros – Ratt makes it easy; she drops you off and picks you up right at the door and she has cold water and wet towels waiting in her air-conditioned car. And the cons – a bit more expensive, the boat ride to the Grand Palace is fabulous (better than a taxi ride), and Ratt may try to talk you into things you didn’t intend to do (with the best of intentions). I decided we’d do just as well by using river boats, the Skytrain, and taxis when we needed them. I’ll let you know how it works.
TIP 9: Be selective in what you want to see – don’t try to do too much in a day is a mistake (a tip that’s hard for me to resist!). Run your plans by the Fodor’s gang and heed their advice. Pictures are especially helpful in determining your must-see list. I'm convinced there's no substitute for doing your homework!
Plans for Chiang Mai were next on the agenda.
Dec 3rd, 2005, 03:40 PM
#31
I was excited about making plans for Chiang Mai. I KNEW I wanted to see elephants. Several years ago I read something that recommended making a list of “50 things you want to do before you die” – and I put “touch an elephant” on my list. I can just imagine what they feel like, but have never had the opportunity to actually touch one. So I was determined to do so while on this trip. And I learned from Fodorites that the Elephant Conservation Camp outside of Lampang is THE place to go. But I ran into my first hitch. I wanted to do the all-day mahout training, as did my daughter. Figured it would be no problem since we’d have four nights and three full days in CM. But wouldn’t you know, Supat (from the camp) responded to my inquiries by informing me that there would be no one-day training sessions while we were there because “the camp will hold the wedding ceremony on the elephants.” I kid you not, that’s exactly what he told me. You figure it out! What do you supposed is happening? Are they mating them? Anyway, we didn’t get signed up for the all-day course. But our last day in Chiang Mai, the camp will be open again (but not for the one-day program), so we’re going for a visit in the morning.
I also knew I wanted to get out of town and do a short trek, visit a hill tribe, and take a bamboo raft ride. I think it was Bob who tried to get me to nix the bamboo raft saying it would be boring, but I decided to stick to my guns. One thing I’ve noticed is that there are some things first-timers consider a must-do that old-timers (I don't mean OLD-timers, Bob, haha) don’t recommend. Come on! A bamboo raft trip! Ok, I may well find it boring and I might also find the floating market overly touristy – but these are things that figure prominently in my daydreams of Thailand, and I have to try them for myself. (TIP 10: Don’t be talked out of something you REALLY want to try because somebody else pans it. Even if you won't do it again, you might regret NOT doing it ever.)
I also wanted to see Doi Suthep – my impression is it’s among the most beautiful wats in Thailand.
But how to arrange these things? I did lots of research on the web, doing google searches for Chiang Mai, bamboo raft, etc. I ended up going with Sergeant Kai, who was recommended by Paige in my “Mother/Daughter Conundrum” posting way back in... oh, was it just October? I used the request form on his website –
http://www.chiangmaitours.com/index.html - to let him know what I wanted to do:
one day with a short trek, a visit to a hill tribe, and a bamboo raft ride and the next day with a morning visit to Lampang Elephant Conservation Center, a brief stop in Lamphun (will probably have lunch there), and Doi Suthep in the afternoon. The first day is 1925 baht per person, including lunch, and the second day is 1500 baht plus gas. Pretty reasonable, I thought. He’ll pick us up the first day at 8:30 at our hotel and at 8:00 the second day (I told him we wanted to be at the elephant camp in time for their bath).
Our other day in Chaing Mai will be spent around town, seeing the sights and doing some shopping – and using tuks-tuks or taxis to get around as necessary. That evening we’re doing a cooking class, although it’s not yet booked (hard to believe, I know!).
I can’t seem to decide between A Lot of Thai and Baan Thai Cookery. I’ve seen recommendations for both and I like both their websites. If anyone can give me any help in deciding, that’d be great. I’ve tasked my daughter to review the web-sites and give me her opinion. Both are in-home classes, and both visit the market as part of the class. I'm not much of a cook, but it sounded like such a fun mother-daughter thing to do!
Also at Chiang Mai, we’re going to the Old Chiang Mai Cultural Center for a khantoke dinner and Thai hill tribe dancing. I found it in a guidebook (Frommer’s, I think) rather than here on the board, although when I asked about it here, it got some good reviews. That’s pretty much it for Chiang Mai. We may get a massage and, of course, will hit the night market!
I also knew I wanted to get out of town and do a short trek, visit a hill tribe, and take a bamboo raft ride. I think it was Bob who tried to get me to nix the bamboo raft saying it would be boring, but I decided to stick to my guns. One thing I’ve noticed is that there are some things first-timers consider a must-do that old-timers (I don't mean OLD-timers, Bob, haha) don’t recommend. Come on! A bamboo raft trip! Ok, I may well find it boring and I might also find the floating market overly touristy – but these are things that figure prominently in my daydreams of Thailand, and I have to try them for myself. (TIP 10: Don’t be talked out of something you REALLY want to try because somebody else pans it. Even if you won't do it again, you might regret NOT doing it ever.)
I also wanted to see Doi Suthep – my impression is it’s among the most beautiful wats in Thailand.
But how to arrange these things? I did lots of research on the web, doing google searches for Chiang Mai, bamboo raft, etc. I ended up going with Sergeant Kai, who was recommended by Paige in my “Mother/Daughter Conundrum” posting way back in... oh, was it just October? I used the request form on his website –
http://www.chiangmaitours.com/index.html - to let him know what I wanted to do:
one day with a short trek, a visit to a hill tribe, and a bamboo raft ride and the next day with a morning visit to Lampang Elephant Conservation Center, a brief stop in Lamphun (will probably have lunch there), and Doi Suthep in the afternoon. The first day is 1925 baht per person, including lunch, and the second day is 1500 baht plus gas. Pretty reasonable, I thought. He’ll pick us up the first day at 8:30 at our hotel and at 8:00 the second day (I told him we wanted to be at the elephant camp in time for their bath).
Our other day in Chaing Mai will be spent around town, seeing the sights and doing some shopping – and using tuks-tuks or taxis to get around as necessary. That evening we’re doing a cooking class, although it’s not yet booked (hard to believe, I know!).
I can’t seem to decide between A Lot of Thai and Baan Thai Cookery. I’ve seen recommendations for both and I like both their websites. If anyone can give me any help in deciding, that’d be great. I’ve tasked my daughter to review the web-sites and give me her opinion. Both are in-home classes, and both visit the market as part of the class. I'm not much of a cook, but it sounded like such a fun mother-daughter thing to do!Also at Chiang Mai, we’re going to the Old Chiang Mai Cultural Center for a khantoke dinner and Thai hill tribe dancing. I found it in a guidebook (Frommer’s, I think) rather than here on the board, although when I asked about it here, it got some good reviews. That’s pretty much it for Chiang Mai. We may get a massage and, of course, will hit the night market!
Dec 3rd, 2005, 04:37 PM
#32
It gets a little sketchy from here on out – less structured. We’re actually doing Mae Hong Son before Chiang Mai, but I don’t have much to say because I haven’t planned ANYTHING! We have an evening, a full day, and most of the next day. I figure the first evening, we’ll settle into Fern Resort and maybe go into town for the night market and dinner at the Fern restaurant, which I’ve seen highly recommended.
On day 2, I’d like to get a driver to head north of town toward Pai (Gloria’s recommendation) for some “Gloria-s” scenery (heehee). I’m hoping Fern Resort can help us arrange this or perhaps a tour agency in town. The fish cave doesn’t particularly interest me. I just want a relaxing day seeing beautiful countryside, maybe a waterfall, and perhaps a hilltribe. (Probably won’t do the long-necks – seems too zoo-like for me, although I must admit I’m curious. Will discuss it with my daughter.)
By the time I got around to planning the Mae Hong Son (and the rest of the trip), I realized my confidence had grown tremendously and I decided we could do some things on the fly without planning every detail. How liberating! (My daughter [Julie] will be astounding.)
From MHS we go to Chiang Mai (already covered), then onto Luang Prabang.
On day 2, I’d like to get a driver to head north of town toward Pai (Gloria’s recommendation) for some “Gloria-s” scenery (heehee). I’m hoping Fern Resort can help us arrange this or perhaps a tour agency in town. The fish cave doesn’t particularly interest me. I just want a relaxing day seeing beautiful countryside, maybe a waterfall, and perhaps a hilltribe. (Probably won’t do the long-necks – seems too zoo-like for me, although I must admit I’m curious. Will discuss it with my daughter.)
By the time I got around to planning the Mae Hong Son (and the rest of the trip), I realized my confidence had grown tremendously and I decided we could do some things on the fly without planning every detail. How liberating! (My daughter [Julie] will be astounding.)
From MHS we go to Chiang Mai (already covered), then onto Luang Prabang.
Dec 3rd, 2005, 04:39 PM
#33
My daughter will be astounded, not astounding (although she's sometimes astounding, as well).
Also, forgot to mention that we do plan to see the few sights that are in the town of MHS - especially the wat beside the lake. I love the pictures I've seen of it.
Also, forgot to mention that we do plan to see the few sights that are in the town of MHS - especially the wat beside the lake. I love the pictures I've seen of it.
Dec 3rd, 2005, 07:16 PM
#34
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the closest thing we have in the states to pomelo is pink grapefruit. I am able to get pomelo in asian markets and I make pomelo salads for thai parties. It is one of my very favorite dishes and it is never in american thai restaurants. I had it for the first time several years ago for lunch at the Oriental and became addicted. it's pomelo, shrimp, chicken. garlic and a sauce to die for.
Dec 4th, 2005, 05:29 AM
#37
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I love that you left a few days unstructured. It sounds like your daughter's personality is very similar to my younger sister's (7 year gap). When I have been able to relax and just hang out with her, I was amazed by some of the adventures she took me on - she will do things that I would never consider, and it is always fun to give her the space to show me her perspective on things. This trip sounds like it will be incredible!
Dec 4th, 2005, 05:42 AM
#38
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Karen-- my only regret in reading this is that we won't be in thailand at the same time. I would really love to meet you and share some of this trip with you. Just make sure you continue to post when you return.
Your advice not to let anyone talk you out of something you really want to do is excellent. And you're right -- things that seem very touristy to someone who has been to thailand 20 times may not seem touristy of a first timer. I mean Angkor sounds incredibly touristy to me because I was there 12 years ago when I only saw two other tourists in 4 days. But that doesn't mean it isn't a must see!
Your advice not to let anyone talk you out of something you really want to do is excellent. And you're right -- things that seem very touristy to someone who has been to thailand 20 times may not seem touristy of a first timer. I mean Angkor sounds incredibly touristy to me because I was there 12 years ago when I only saw two other tourists in 4 days. But that doesn't mean it isn't a must see!
Dec 4th, 2005, 06:49 AM
#39
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GOD WILL STRIKE YOU DOWN FOR NOT FOLLOWING FODORITE ADVICE 110%....and probably before the trip begins, so look both ways when crossing the streets in DC the next couple of months...
haha
you have done just what you should do....use us, the books and other sources as sources and not as gospal...each to his own... there will be things you do not like i am sure...
haha
you have done just what you should do....use us, the books and other sources as sources and not as gospal...each to his own... there will be things you do not like i am sure...
