NeoPatrick in Asia -- a report as it happens (sort of)
Aug 23rd, 2010, 05:33 AM
#21
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In Kyoto, it sounds like you may not have gotten to Shimbashi, at the edge of Gion. While much of Kyoto is indeed architecturally unremarkable, I found Shimbashi to be one of the most charming city streets anywhere. It's an island of trees, water, and human-scale buildings that makes you forget the urban whirlwind that's just on the other side -- not at all unlike Louisburg Sq or La Place des Vosges.
Aug 23rd, 2010, 05:50 AM
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No, I did indeed get to Shimbashi. My friend and I walked that at night after the sushi. There were indeed geishas out and about too -- which almost seemed surreal. And I didn't mean to suggest that Kyoto was without its charming places, I think I was just shocked at how much of it was such urban sprawl. There were also some rather charming streets near me at the Palace.
Aug 23rd, 2010, 07:06 AM
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There is actually an elevator at that station but it is way at the other end, then around a long wall and then up to a commercial building above and then about a 10 minute longer walk to the hotel. It is doable, but the taxi to the hotel from the station was 1370 yen and returning was 1060 ($16 and 12.50). Seemed better to me.
Thursday, the delightful little coffee place is just about a block from the hotel towards the subway station on the same side of the street, a nice clean and charming little place for tea or coffee and snacks. I have no idea what it's called, but there is just a sign that says "coffee".
Thursday, the delightful little coffee place is just about a block from the hotel towards the subway station on the same side of the street, a nice clean and charming little place for tea or coffee and snacks. I have no idea what it's called, but there is just a sign that says "coffee".
Aug 23rd, 2010, 07:13 AM
#28
Thanks NeoPatrick - I'll certainly look for the coffee place, and thanks for the info on taxi prices. I'll see how I feel about the 55 steps when I arrive - my main pack is a backpack, which makes it easier.
Aug 23rd, 2010, 09:09 AM
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Thanks for posting. Your internet friend totally worked out for you. You managed to see quite a bit and ate some real Chinese food in the short time you had in Shanghai. Hope your friend's father has the luck you did.
We were in Kyoto some 12+ years ago, thought some part of it was more beautiful than postcards. Came across some exquisitely pottery for tea ceremonies. I remember there is a raku museum if you like ceramics.
Sorry to hear that your ankle is bothering you, people in Asia like to use topical lotion to reduce inflammation. Here is one popular brand:http://www.ehow.com/about_5061171_salonpas.html. The gel might be better than patches in your case. You have to massage it in in order to be effective. Dr. Oz recommands tiger balm, you can get that in Japan also. Both have been around for long time. Both are for topical use only.
We were in Kyoto some 12+ years ago, thought some part of it was more beautiful than postcards. Came across some exquisitely pottery for tea ceremonies. I remember there is a raku museum if you like ceramics.
Sorry to hear that your ankle is bothering you, people in Asia like to use topical lotion to reduce inflammation. Here is one popular brand:http://www.ehow.com/about_5061171_salonpas.html. The gel might be better than patches in your case. You have to massage it in in order to be effective. Dr. Oz recommands tiger balm, you can get that in Japan also. Both have been around for long time. Both are for topical use only.
Aug 23rd, 2010, 12:05 PM
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The only good modern architecture in Kyoto is the JR Kyoto station imho.
I think I told you it's not my favorite place in Japan, in fact not even in my top 10. I think my original statement was something like "Kyoto is the Japanese at their worst".
Arashiyama is the place you shouldn't have missed. That place would have reminded you of a little of old Japan but I do understand how a typhoon in the area can change your plans,lol. I will be there in the fall for the colors and I hope the weather will cooperate this time.
Love the story about the little shinkansen that delivers the individual orders of sushi. Little details like that are one of the things that impress me about the Japanese people, they always think it out to the last detail.....
Anxiously awaiting more!!
Aloha!
I think I told you it's not my favorite place in Japan, in fact not even in my top 10. I think my original statement was something like "Kyoto is the Japanese at their worst".
Arashiyama is the place you shouldn't have missed. That place would have reminded you of a little of old Japan but I do understand how a typhoon in the area can change your plans,lol. I will be there in the fall for the colors and I hope the weather will cooperate this time.
Love the story about the little shinkansen that delivers the individual orders of sushi. Little details like that are one of the things that impress me about the Japanese people, they always think it out to the last detail.....
Anxiously awaiting more!!
Aloha!
Aug 23rd, 2010, 03:02 PM
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mohan, China Construction Bank is a partner of Bank of America, so if your checking and ATM are BofA, there is no charge at any China Construction Bank and there are dozens of them everywhere -- even right by my hotel in little Yangshuo.
But no partners in Japan or Thailand that I know of.
Yea, Hawaiiantraveler, Arashiyama is the "A" place I referred to, didn't want to bother to look it up when reporting. It was my plan for my last day, but didn't sound appealing in pouring rain all day!
But no partners in Japan or Thailand that I know of.
Yea, Hawaiiantraveler, Arashiyama is the "A" place I referred to, didn't want to bother to look it up when reporting. It was my plan for my last day, but didn't sound appealing in pouring rain all day!
Aug 24th, 2010, 07:37 AM
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PART III: Beijing
The Japan Air flight in First Class was surprisingly deluxe -- well, I guess it is an international flight even if it was only a little over 2 hours long.
On arrival, I got a taxi (had the name and address of The Kapok Hotel) printed out in Chinese -- copied from their website. We were immediately caught in a dead stop just out of the airport as there was an accident blocking all three lanes. So for 15 or 20 minutes we sat, then inched forward. The trip took a little over an hour to the hotel and the bill was 95 Yuan. Loved the hotel. The room was quite nice -- with a sort of private courtyard/Chinese Garden with sliding doors to it. The decor was quite modern and there was a huge all glass bathroom -- big walk in shower with a glass partition between it and the toilet, then another glass partition between the toilet and a large vanity, the long outer wall of the bath was all glass, but there were draperies that could be pulled across on the outside if you were "shy". Free internet worked like a charm. Lots of little extras. For just under $100 a night -- booked direct about two months ahead -- I was really pleased.
Soon after arrival, one of my acquaintances came by after work and we went for a walk -- mainly towards the big shopping street, Wangfujing. Then we took a taxi to Dongzhimen Street, a street filled with local restaurants all with thousands of lanterns outside. We at at his favorite, a rather big upstairs place part of the Hua "chain". Squid with peppers and funghi, mushrooms with peppers, sauteed cabbage in spicy sauce, some wonderful "scallion" bread, and special pinwheel "bean" dessert slices. When Bing asked if I wanted tea, I told him how much iced tea I drink, but it's always so hard to get when I travel -- he ordered a big pot of jasmine tea and a bucket of ice and we made our own. It was great.
Afterwards, he went with me to the subway and showed me how to buy tickets and follow it all -- wow, is that subway system easy! And headed back to the hotel.
The next morning I decided I did not want huge buffet breakfast which is what they do at the hotel and it wasn't included in my room rate anyway. So believe it or not, right across the street was a Subway (sandwich place, not an underground train!) and I started what was to be a daily routine for the next four days -- the special sub of the day on wheat bread for 15 yuan. Made a perfect breakfast for me. Bing joined me and we went to Tiananmen Square, and then shopped a little bit just south of there -- "Old Street?" I said I really needed a small backpack to carry around every day to hold my umbrella, sun glasses, camera, maps, etc. but I wanted something super thin and light. Found a North Face one (yea, FAKE) and they wanted 200 Yuan. Bing took over bargaining for me and kept whispering "walk away" so I'd start to then negotions would resume. When we hit 40 Yuan, he agreed and I handed over my ($ 6 roughly). Bing led me to The Forbidden City and bid me farewell as he was leaving on a business trip the next day and had to get going. But after hitting the mobs (it was now nearly noon) and speaking to someone who said they had just spent an hour in line getting tickets, I decided not to do it today. Besides it was SO hot. I knew about going to the north gate, so decided I'd wait until tomorrow morning. But I did go through the Gardens on the West Side of the Forbidden City -- for a small charge and watched a lot of people playing "bumper cars" in their rented paddle boats.
I headed back to the hotel, just a short walk away and heading up the outside wall to the east gate which was a block from my hotel. On the way I bought some melon on a stick. I saw others buying it for 1 yuan, but as I approached the man, a woman sitting next to him jumped up and got one from him for me and then said "2" holding up two fingers. I guess I just got my first "brokered" melon of my life! I wondered if she was even related to the guy.
I returned to the hotel to cool off, and suddenly realized it was now about 2:30 and I hadn't eaten lunch. I went to the dining room of the hotel and ordered a dish of "pig" livers (I'd prefer the term pork liver) with peppers. The waitress warned me it was quite spicy, but I still ordered them. Well, after scraping off a couple dozen tiny red peppers and even hotter tiny green ones, I ate all the liver -- probably a pound's worth -- and it was very spicy from the peppers but delicious.
Then a little nap -- I felt I still hadn't recovered from my busy week in Shanghai and Kyoto and the heat wasn't helping either. I woke up a couple hours later and walked down to Wangfujing and around again. I took the "tourist" train on a route of about an hour -- of course I didn't understand any of the narration, but it was nice to see the area around there. Later I went to a place that the hotel later said is called "Old Beijing" which is right behind the line of food stalls along the street. I had a dish of beef slices and onions "Chinese style" which was a bit sweet but good and served on a sizzling plate, and I ordered some scallion pancakes similar to the ones we had had the night before. Oh my God, suddenly I realized I was eating Chinese fajitas! But they were good and perfect with beer.
The next morning I was up early, did my Subway sandwich routine and arrived at the North Gate of Forbidden City about 15 minutes before it opened. I waited in a line including about 10 or 15 minutes after the line started. There were hundreds of people at the North Gate, mostly tour groups. When I saw them breeze in with their guides while I was standing in the hot sun buying tickets, I was suddenly reminded of one advantage of taking a tour.
But once inside and past the initial crowds in the main central "corridor", I really pretty much had the whole north end of the place to myself. I had bought the Treasury Ticket and the Clocks ticket as well. The huge area which includes the treasury and requires a special ticket, I really had to myself. I think the three level theatre was my favorite thing there. The "treasures" somehow weren't as inspiring as the treasures I have seen in Tiawan which came from the Forbidden City -- well, I had been told the vast majority of the "best" stuff was taken there. By the time I got to the Clocks, I was in the huge crowds. All in all, I was there about 3 hours I guess, loved it, but had seen all I really cared to. I was very hot, and returned to my hotel where I took a quick shower, cooled off, and then headed out again -- this time to the subway to The Summer Palace, going to the North Gate as well. As I got there I again realized I was way beyond lunch time (my diabetic coma was about to kick in). I really didn't know there would be a lot of decent food inside the Summer Palace, but the only thing outside the North entrance was -- yep, MacDonald's. Well, why not? So I had some really tasty grilled Asian flavored chicken wings and French Fries. Would you believe they have NO drinks without sugar there -- including diet soft drinks -- but I had some bottled iced tea -- yea, it too was sweetened. Then I headed into the Summer Palace. It was now after three and they wouldn't sell a "through" ticket which allows you into all the attractions saying there wasn't enough time to do that. So I bought one of the maps and walked, and walked, including all the way around the lake from the stone boat to the island with the big bridge. I also climed to the top of the hill, and of course in and out of a number of exhibits and buildings that were open.
As I was about to leave I was studying my map when two teenage girls came up staring at me -- I got that a lot -- I guess it's the "look at the old Caucasian with the white hair" thing. But it seems they wanted to look at my map for a second and I let them, then as they started to walk away I called them back and gave them the map. It was one of those brown paper ones that is done very artistically. They were thrilled, then had to take their pictures with me. Out of the Summer Palace I was a little lost. I got the impression I shouldn't take a taxi waiting at the gate as everybody passed them by and went to the street to try to hail one. I joined them, but there were a lot of people and very few taxis, and after about 20 minutes I gave up and walked across the street to a sort of bus station. But I asked half a dozen people which bus, using my city map and pointing and all I could get was bland stares. There is NO English on the bus schedules or lists of routes, so it seemed like a lost cause. I knew there was no subway station near there, but I was about to start walking. Then I spotted a guy in one of those motorized tricycles with a sign on the front in Chinese then under it in English "to Subway". I asked how much. He wanted 20. I guess I was supposed to argue, but I was glad to see him, I agreed and off we went. The station was quite a distance, and he dropped me right at the gate, I bought my ticket and headed back to my hotel exhausted.
After my MacDonald's lunch, I decided this was the night to do the Peking Duck at Quanjude -- perhaps the most famous place for it. I asked at the hotel and they said "no reservations" but that they close it off fairly early as there is always a wait and they close at 9. I arrived about 8:15 and although they gave me a number and told me to wait with the other hundred or so, they almost immediatly stopped giving out numbers. I waited about 45 minutes to get seated. Well Peking Duck (or is it really now called Beijing Duck?) isn't really a great thing for a single diner, but I did it. The hotel had double checked that they would sell me half a duck (several guide book sources suggest they won't) and they said they would. It was carved at the table and served with a number of accompanimants and of course the paper thin pancakes. I also order some sauteed greens with garlic, and I drank beer. It was very good duck, but frankly I'd rather just tear into the whole duck that wrap it with sauce in a pancake. The meal was 207, I think my most expensive meal by far to date (still less than $30)
The next morning after my Subway breakfast, I took a taxi to Temple of Heaven -- just seemed easier than trying to deal with buses and the subway just wouldn't work to there. Am I the only one to be surprised that the REAL Temple of Heaven looks smaller and less impressive than its copy at Epcot? LOL I walked around and into the various buildings and sites there and worked my way out the other side. Ooops. Time for lunch again -- so I headed into the first decent looking restaurant I spotted and then realized it was a hotpot place. OK, why not? So with a girl's help -- no English from her or on the menu, just sign language -- I ordered what appeared from the pictures to be a selection of four types of meat. Sure enough, when she brought it she pointed at each one and said "pork, beef, sheep (lamb), and other kind of beef" (kind of a chewy beef, actually). A pot of broth with vegetables was started on the propane at my table and I was cooking away.
Out of the restaurant, I was still at the gate of Temple of Heaven and walked over to a taxi and handed him my card the hotel had written in Chinese -- "take me to Jingshan Garden". I figured it should be about the same price as getting to there which was 15. But he said, "80 Yuan". HUH? I said, "meter" and he said, "no -- too far", so I walked away. I went around the corner to a busy street, flagged a taxi, showed him my card and off we went with the meter running. There was a lot of traffic, so I wasn't too surprised when the final bill was 25. Again, a lesson NOT to take a taxi sitting outside an attraction!
At Jingshan, I climbed to the top, walked through the gardens awhile, then walked back to my hotel. Once again, thoroughly hot and exhausted.
A friend of a friend of mine was to meet me for dinner. He was born in Beijing but his family moved to the US when he was four. He recently returned to Beijing where he is heading two "start up" companies and also developing an anti smoking campaign for Beijing (Good luck with that!). It seemed odd being with a Chinese guy who didn't have a trace of a Chinese accent -- in fact it was about New York. We walked and ended up at some noodle place where we had various noodles, he insisted on buying but it was cheap -- and shades of Kyoto, I then bought ice cream -- again costing more than dinner! LOL
The next morning I was up early, had my Subway, then headed out for the day. The guy at the hotel -- doorman or concierge -- had arranged a taxi for me for the day with an English speaking driver -- 700 Yuan to take me to the Great Wall, Ming Tombs, and anything else I wanted for the day. Since I had been told you can maybe negotiate a taxi driver for 600 for this, I was happy to pay more with a guarantee of an English speaking driver. It was great. He also provided water -- had a cooler of it chilled in the trunk -- and handed me a cell phone to call him on when I needed him to pick me up at attractions.
We went to Muntianyu as I had requested. We got there fairly early, and I took the cable car up. There were only a handful of people on the wall, and I did my first Asia "Lee's ashes scattering" of the trip -- tossing some into the wind from the top part of the wall. He had always wanted to go to China and it never happened, so this just seemed fitting. I walked the couple of kilometers (?) from Tower 14 to Tower 6 and then took the toboggan slide down. I spent a fair amount of time up there and walked slowly -- lots of steps up and down. Back in the car, we headed to the Ming Tombs and again I was on my own. I found the whole thing kind of not very exciting. I mean it's basically a big underground stone room with some reproductions of boxes that the bodies and the treasures used to be in. And that's it. There were some interesting relics in the little museum.
Afterwards he drove me around the reservoir where the Triathlon events of the Olympics were held. We headed back to the city and he offered to drive me around the Olympic site, but frankly that didn't mean that much to me and there was a ton of traffic, so I said I'd just as soon head back, arriving about 4 or so.
After a shower and a little rest, I took a taxi to Lake Houhai, which I was told was quite a trendy area of restaurants and bars. Well, I guess my idea of trendy is different -- as it was extremely busy, but not what I'd call a trendy crowd in the least. I had written down the names of a couple of recommended restaurants, but all of them seemed only to have Chinese names, so I picked one of the busiest and most inviting. I ordered their specialty -- a whole lake perch cooked in tin foil with vegetables, and a side of steamed caggage and tiny noodles covered with candied or carmelized garlic -- tons of it! Delicious. Later I realized this was Han Cang (spelled a couple of different ways according to the guides) one of the places I was looking for. On my way around the lake, I was a little irritated by the constant tugging of young ladies saying "lady bar?" but I guess that wasn't quite as bad as all the hookers tugging at me along Wangfujing who were much more graphic with their offers!
But home to bed (ALONE, yes!)
Next morning I actually finally had the full buffet breakfast at the hotel -- really quite wonderful, but I was glad I didn't eat like that every morning! I took a taxi to the airport 100 this time, and was off on a flight to Xi'an. So you know what's coming up next.
I feel, this is all so long, but yet I'm cutting it all so short, so feel free to ask any questions along the way.
The Japan Air flight in First Class was surprisingly deluxe -- well, I guess it is an international flight even if it was only a little over 2 hours long.
On arrival, I got a taxi (had the name and address of The Kapok Hotel) printed out in Chinese -- copied from their website. We were immediately caught in a dead stop just out of the airport as there was an accident blocking all three lanes. So for 15 or 20 minutes we sat, then inched forward. The trip took a little over an hour to the hotel and the bill was 95 Yuan. Loved the hotel. The room was quite nice -- with a sort of private courtyard/Chinese Garden with sliding doors to it. The decor was quite modern and there was a huge all glass bathroom -- big walk in shower with a glass partition between it and the toilet, then another glass partition between the toilet and a large vanity, the long outer wall of the bath was all glass, but there were draperies that could be pulled across on the outside if you were "shy". Free internet worked like a charm. Lots of little extras. For just under $100 a night -- booked direct about two months ahead -- I was really pleased.
Soon after arrival, one of my acquaintances came by after work and we went for a walk -- mainly towards the big shopping street, Wangfujing. Then we took a taxi to Dongzhimen Street, a street filled with local restaurants all with thousands of lanterns outside. We at at his favorite, a rather big upstairs place part of the Hua "chain". Squid with peppers and funghi, mushrooms with peppers, sauteed cabbage in spicy sauce, some wonderful "scallion" bread, and special pinwheel "bean" dessert slices. When Bing asked if I wanted tea, I told him how much iced tea I drink, but it's always so hard to get when I travel -- he ordered a big pot of jasmine tea and a bucket of ice and we made our own. It was great.
Afterwards, he went with me to the subway and showed me how to buy tickets and follow it all -- wow, is that subway system easy! And headed back to the hotel.
The next morning I decided I did not want huge buffet breakfast which is what they do at the hotel and it wasn't included in my room rate anyway. So believe it or not, right across the street was a Subway (sandwich place, not an underground train!) and I started what was to be a daily routine for the next four days -- the special sub of the day on wheat bread for 15 yuan. Made a perfect breakfast for me. Bing joined me and we went to Tiananmen Square, and then shopped a little bit just south of there -- "Old Street?" I said I really needed a small backpack to carry around every day to hold my umbrella, sun glasses, camera, maps, etc. but I wanted something super thin and light. Found a North Face one (yea, FAKE) and they wanted 200 Yuan. Bing took over bargaining for me and kept whispering "walk away" so I'd start to then negotions would resume. When we hit 40 Yuan, he agreed and I handed over my ($ 6 roughly). Bing led me to The Forbidden City and bid me farewell as he was leaving on a business trip the next day and had to get going. But after hitting the mobs (it was now nearly noon) and speaking to someone who said they had just spent an hour in line getting tickets, I decided not to do it today. Besides it was SO hot. I knew about going to the north gate, so decided I'd wait until tomorrow morning. But I did go through the Gardens on the West Side of the Forbidden City -- for a small charge and watched a lot of people playing "bumper cars" in their rented paddle boats.
I headed back to the hotel, just a short walk away and heading up the outside wall to the east gate which was a block from my hotel. On the way I bought some melon on a stick. I saw others buying it for 1 yuan, but as I approached the man, a woman sitting next to him jumped up and got one from him for me and then said "2" holding up two fingers. I guess I just got my first "brokered" melon of my life! I wondered if she was even related to the guy.
I returned to the hotel to cool off, and suddenly realized it was now about 2:30 and I hadn't eaten lunch. I went to the dining room of the hotel and ordered a dish of "pig" livers (I'd prefer the term pork liver) with peppers. The waitress warned me it was quite spicy, but I still ordered them. Well, after scraping off a couple dozen tiny red peppers and even hotter tiny green ones, I ate all the liver -- probably a pound's worth -- and it was very spicy from the peppers but delicious.
Then a little nap -- I felt I still hadn't recovered from my busy week in Shanghai and Kyoto and the heat wasn't helping either. I woke up a couple hours later and walked down to Wangfujing and around again. I took the "tourist" train on a route of about an hour -- of course I didn't understand any of the narration, but it was nice to see the area around there. Later I went to a place that the hotel later said is called "Old Beijing" which is right behind the line of food stalls along the street. I had a dish of beef slices and onions "Chinese style" which was a bit sweet but good and served on a sizzling plate, and I ordered some scallion pancakes similar to the ones we had had the night before. Oh my God, suddenly I realized I was eating Chinese fajitas! But they were good and perfect with beer.
The next morning I was up early, did my Subway sandwich routine and arrived at the North Gate of Forbidden City about 15 minutes before it opened. I waited in a line including about 10 or 15 minutes after the line started. There were hundreds of people at the North Gate, mostly tour groups. When I saw them breeze in with their guides while I was standing in the hot sun buying tickets, I was suddenly reminded of one advantage of taking a tour.
But once inside and past the initial crowds in the main central "corridor", I really pretty much had the whole north end of the place to myself. I had bought the Treasury Ticket and the Clocks ticket as well. The huge area which includes the treasury and requires a special ticket, I really had to myself. I think the three level theatre was my favorite thing there. The "treasures" somehow weren't as inspiring as the treasures I have seen in Tiawan which came from the Forbidden City -- well, I had been told the vast majority of the "best" stuff was taken there. By the time I got to the Clocks, I was in the huge crowds. All in all, I was there about 3 hours I guess, loved it, but had seen all I really cared to. I was very hot, and returned to my hotel where I took a quick shower, cooled off, and then headed out again -- this time to the subway to The Summer Palace, going to the North Gate as well. As I got there I again realized I was way beyond lunch time (my diabetic coma was about to kick in). I really didn't know there would be a lot of decent food inside the Summer Palace, but the only thing outside the North entrance was -- yep, MacDonald's. Well, why not? So I had some really tasty grilled Asian flavored chicken wings and French Fries. Would you believe they have NO drinks without sugar there -- including diet soft drinks -- but I had some bottled iced tea -- yea, it too was sweetened. Then I headed into the Summer Palace. It was now after three and they wouldn't sell a "through" ticket which allows you into all the attractions saying there wasn't enough time to do that. So I bought one of the maps and walked, and walked, including all the way around the lake from the stone boat to the island with the big bridge. I also climed to the top of the hill, and of course in and out of a number of exhibits and buildings that were open.
As I was about to leave I was studying my map when two teenage girls came up staring at me -- I got that a lot -- I guess it's the "look at the old Caucasian with the white hair" thing. But it seems they wanted to look at my map for a second and I let them, then as they started to walk away I called them back and gave them the map. It was one of those brown paper ones that is done very artistically. They were thrilled, then had to take their pictures with me. Out of the Summer Palace I was a little lost. I got the impression I shouldn't take a taxi waiting at the gate as everybody passed them by and went to the street to try to hail one. I joined them, but there were a lot of people and very few taxis, and after about 20 minutes I gave up and walked across the street to a sort of bus station. But I asked half a dozen people which bus, using my city map and pointing and all I could get was bland stares. There is NO English on the bus schedules or lists of routes, so it seemed like a lost cause. I knew there was no subway station near there, but I was about to start walking. Then I spotted a guy in one of those motorized tricycles with a sign on the front in Chinese then under it in English "to Subway". I asked how much. He wanted 20. I guess I was supposed to argue, but I was glad to see him, I agreed and off we went. The station was quite a distance, and he dropped me right at the gate, I bought my ticket and headed back to my hotel exhausted.
After my MacDonald's lunch, I decided this was the night to do the Peking Duck at Quanjude -- perhaps the most famous place for it. I asked at the hotel and they said "no reservations" but that they close it off fairly early as there is always a wait and they close at 9. I arrived about 8:15 and although they gave me a number and told me to wait with the other hundred or so, they almost immediatly stopped giving out numbers. I waited about 45 minutes to get seated. Well Peking Duck (or is it really now called Beijing Duck?) isn't really a great thing for a single diner, but I did it. The hotel had double checked that they would sell me half a duck (several guide book sources suggest they won't) and they said they would. It was carved at the table and served with a number of accompanimants and of course the paper thin pancakes. I also order some sauteed greens with garlic, and I drank beer. It was very good duck, but frankly I'd rather just tear into the whole duck that wrap it with sauce in a pancake. The meal was 207, I think my most expensive meal by far to date (still less than $30)
The next morning after my Subway breakfast, I took a taxi to Temple of Heaven -- just seemed easier than trying to deal with buses and the subway just wouldn't work to there. Am I the only one to be surprised that the REAL Temple of Heaven looks smaller and less impressive than its copy at Epcot? LOL I walked around and into the various buildings and sites there and worked my way out the other side. Ooops. Time for lunch again -- so I headed into the first decent looking restaurant I spotted and then realized it was a hotpot place. OK, why not? So with a girl's help -- no English from her or on the menu, just sign language -- I ordered what appeared from the pictures to be a selection of four types of meat. Sure enough, when she brought it she pointed at each one and said "pork, beef, sheep (lamb), and other kind of beef" (kind of a chewy beef, actually). A pot of broth with vegetables was started on the propane at my table and I was cooking away.
Out of the restaurant, I was still at the gate of Temple of Heaven and walked over to a taxi and handed him my card the hotel had written in Chinese -- "take me to Jingshan Garden". I figured it should be about the same price as getting to there which was 15. But he said, "80 Yuan". HUH? I said, "meter" and he said, "no -- too far", so I walked away. I went around the corner to a busy street, flagged a taxi, showed him my card and off we went with the meter running. There was a lot of traffic, so I wasn't too surprised when the final bill was 25. Again, a lesson NOT to take a taxi sitting outside an attraction!
At Jingshan, I climbed to the top, walked through the gardens awhile, then walked back to my hotel. Once again, thoroughly hot and exhausted.
A friend of a friend of mine was to meet me for dinner. He was born in Beijing but his family moved to the US when he was four. He recently returned to Beijing where he is heading two "start up" companies and also developing an anti smoking campaign for Beijing (Good luck with that!). It seemed odd being with a Chinese guy who didn't have a trace of a Chinese accent -- in fact it was about New York. We walked and ended up at some noodle place where we had various noodles, he insisted on buying but it was cheap -- and shades of Kyoto, I then bought ice cream -- again costing more than dinner! LOL
The next morning I was up early, had my Subway, then headed out for the day. The guy at the hotel -- doorman or concierge -- had arranged a taxi for me for the day with an English speaking driver -- 700 Yuan to take me to the Great Wall, Ming Tombs, and anything else I wanted for the day. Since I had been told you can maybe negotiate a taxi driver for 600 for this, I was happy to pay more with a guarantee of an English speaking driver. It was great. He also provided water -- had a cooler of it chilled in the trunk -- and handed me a cell phone to call him on when I needed him to pick me up at attractions.
We went to Muntianyu as I had requested. We got there fairly early, and I took the cable car up. There were only a handful of people on the wall, and I did my first Asia "Lee's ashes scattering" of the trip -- tossing some into the wind from the top part of the wall. He had always wanted to go to China and it never happened, so this just seemed fitting. I walked the couple of kilometers (?) from Tower 14 to Tower 6 and then took the toboggan slide down. I spent a fair amount of time up there and walked slowly -- lots of steps up and down. Back in the car, we headed to the Ming Tombs and again I was on my own. I found the whole thing kind of not very exciting. I mean it's basically a big underground stone room with some reproductions of boxes that the bodies and the treasures used to be in. And that's it. There were some interesting relics in the little museum.
Afterwards he drove me around the reservoir where the Triathlon events of the Olympics were held. We headed back to the city and he offered to drive me around the Olympic site, but frankly that didn't mean that much to me and there was a ton of traffic, so I said I'd just as soon head back, arriving about 4 or so.
After a shower and a little rest, I took a taxi to Lake Houhai, which I was told was quite a trendy area of restaurants and bars. Well, I guess my idea of trendy is different -- as it was extremely busy, but not what I'd call a trendy crowd in the least. I had written down the names of a couple of recommended restaurants, but all of them seemed only to have Chinese names, so I picked one of the busiest and most inviting. I ordered their specialty -- a whole lake perch cooked in tin foil with vegetables, and a side of steamed caggage and tiny noodles covered with candied or carmelized garlic -- tons of it! Delicious. Later I realized this was Han Cang (spelled a couple of different ways according to the guides) one of the places I was looking for. On my way around the lake, I was a little irritated by the constant tugging of young ladies saying "lady bar?" but I guess that wasn't quite as bad as all the hookers tugging at me along Wangfujing who were much more graphic with their offers!
But home to bed (ALONE, yes!)
Next morning I actually finally had the full buffet breakfast at the hotel -- really quite wonderful, but I was glad I didn't eat like that every morning! I took a taxi to the airport 100 this time, and was off on a flight to Xi'an. So you know what's coming up next.
I feel, this is all so long, but yet I'm cutting it all so short, so feel free to ask any questions along the way.
Aug 24th, 2010, 08:45 AM
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Great report on Beijing, Patrick! I am sure Lee is with you in spirit!
Your meal descriptions are making me very hungry and eager to get back to China, to eat, if nothing else!
LOL about the Temple of Heaven at EPCOT!! I'm going to be there this weekend...
Your meal descriptions are making me very hungry and eager to get back to China, to eat, if nothing else!
LOL about the Temple of Heaven at EPCOT!! I'm going to be there this weekend...
