Delayed trip; report
Feb 15th, 2008, 10:36 AM
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Delayed trip; report
I hope I was able (with punctuation) to keep Gpanda from assessing penalties because the trip was delayed - not the report.
Just returned from a short trip to Seoul. It was scheduled for Christmas day. My packed suitcase was beside the front door in anticipation of an early flight when DS called - REALLY sick and it wasn't going to get better in time for the flight. So - Cancelled.
Back on last week. After 14hrs and 45 minutes, arrived in Seoul! Stayed at the Renaissance, located south of the river - across the river is more concvenient for tourist (this is an upscale business location). However, the subway is easy, cheap, and avoids traffic. Taxis are also comparatively inexpensive.
It was dark when we arrived and we were exhausted from excitment and packing as well as the loooong trip, so went to bed. It was a good choice since we started the next morning at 6:00 am and never had a time adjusment problem. This morning was spent on a tour to the DMZ zone. What a strange, surreal, place! There is a village with a small amusement park for children next to all the barbed wire, military personnel and rules. They seem to view it as any day the north and south will be reunited and they are ready. They have had 3 reunification events in the DMZ zone and they have a train that is sitting on the tracks, and ready to go to Pyeongyang I suppose when "the" announcement is made. I wonder how the North Koreans view it??
Returned to Seoul and was dropped off at City Hall. Saw the South Gate in passing. Then we made our way to the Changdeokgung Palace. While waiting on the English Tour, we searched for food. It was Sunday and we were finding all the restaurants closed. Finally had to settle for a sandwich bought at the 7-ll across the street from the palace (and eaten in the Palace coffee house!). I would recommend this tour - although it was the only palace tour we went on so I can't compare it.
After the tour, back to the hotel. DS didn't want to look for a place for dinner so I went out to search.
Had been told to go up the hill by the hotel for many, many restaurants(re the lang, was told they had pictures). Well - they were
numerous and local (i.e, no English!) I picked one that had lots of people and happy noises coming from it and went in. Well, all the shoes at the door were the first thing I saw and then realized all the noise had stopped and all eyes were upon me. Strange feeling - but I've lived too many years to let that deter me (and I was starving). So the waitress came over and started talking to me in Korean - I answered in questions in English - but she didn't have any English. So a young man sitting at a floor table (as they all were) with about 8 others, jumped up, came over and started translating for us. Seems I wanted something to take out and she couldn't provide that. So he asked her where in the vicinity I could find that and she told him some places to try. Then he turns to me and says, I will take you. So he puts on his shoes, leaves his dinner and friends, goes down the street with me to look for BarBQ beef to take out. First place they tell him no but the second place he works it out where they will cook it there and give it to me to take out. He then turns to me and with a slight bow, says excuse me, but I need to leave now!. Of course I thanked him profusely and then he was gone! I was floored at his willingness to inconvience himself to helf a gray-haired American find dinner. (I kept remembering Bob's comment on Korean food, but it was good, not great but okay)
Just returned from a short trip to Seoul. It was scheduled for Christmas day. My packed suitcase was beside the front door in anticipation of an early flight when DS called - REALLY sick and it wasn't going to get better in time for the flight. So - Cancelled.
Back on last week. After 14hrs and 45 minutes, arrived in Seoul! Stayed at the Renaissance, located south of the river - across the river is more concvenient for tourist (this is an upscale business location). However, the subway is easy, cheap, and avoids traffic. Taxis are also comparatively inexpensive.
It was dark when we arrived and we were exhausted from excitment and packing as well as the loooong trip, so went to bed. It was a good choice since we started the next morning at 6:00 am and never had a time adjusment problem. This morning was spent on a tour to the DMZ zone. What a strange, surreal, place! There is a village with a small amusement park for children next to all the barbed wire, military personnel and rules. They seem to view it as any day the north and south will be reunited and they are ready. They have had 3 reunification events in the DMZ zone and they have a train that is sitting on the tracks, and ready to go to Pyeongyang I suppose when "the" announcement is made. I wonder how the North Koreans view it??
Returned to Seoul and was dropped off at City Hall. Saw the South Gate in passing. Then we made our way to the Changdeokgung Palace. While waiting on the English Tour, we searched for food. It was Sunday and we were finding all the restaurants closed. Finally had to settle for a sandwich bought at the 7-ll across the street from the palace (and eaten in the Palace coffee house!). I would recommend this tour - although it was the only palace tour we went on so I can't compare it.
After the tour, back to the hotel. DS didn't want to look for a place for dinner so I went out to search.
Had been told to go up the hill by the hotel for many, many restaurants(re the lang, was told they had pictures). Well - they were
numerous and local (i.e, no English!) I picked one that had lots of people and happy noises coming from it and went in. Well, all the shoes at the door were the first thing I saw and then realized all the noise had stopped and all eyes were upon me. Strange feeling - but I've lived too many years to let that deter me (and I was starving). So the waitress came over and started talking to me in Korean - I answered in questions in English - but she didn't have any English. So a young man sitting at a floor table (as they all were) with about 8 others, jumped up, came over and started translating for us. Seems I wanted something to take out and she couldn't provide that. So he asked her where in the vicinity I could find that and she told him some places to try. Then he turns to me and says, I will take you. So he puts on his shoes, leaves his dinner and friends, goes down the street with me to look for BarBQ beef to take out. First place they tell him no but the second place he works it out where they will cook it there and give it to me to take out. He then turns to me and with a slight bow, says excuse me, but I need to leave now!. Of course I thanked him profusely and then he was gone! I was floored at his willingness to inconvience himself to helf a gray-haired American find dinner. (I kept remembering Bob's comment on Korean food, but it was good, not great but okay)
Feb 15th, 2008, 12:35 PM
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I just wrote a reply and posted it to come back and find it not here????? Help - I tried to edit the report but it would let me do all the typing, but then it would not print it in preview??? Is it too long to put in one posting??
What am I doing wrong??
What am I doing wrong??
Feb 15th, 2008, 01:01 PM
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During the night, I awoke and turned on the TV. There was a building burning (live TV)which I could identify as looking like one of the palace buildings but no other bldgs around it, so not the palace. It's all in Korean so I can't identify it.
Awoke in the am and leisurely went to breakfast at the hotel buffet (expensive but good). Then we started out to Namdaemun market. Namdaemum market starts at the South Gate. The taxi driver tells us that the South Gate burned last night (NOW I know!). When we arrive and get out, the area is loaded with South Koreans just standing and staring - some taking pictures with their cell phones, or cameras, and some professionals taking pictures (equipment gives them away.) The smell of the fire is still permeating the air; the aura is of grief and mourming - very somber!. I felt I was a part of an important moment in Korean history. (The South Gate was the oldest historical structure in Seoul and was built with the NE&W gate and walls to keep out the Chinese).Seoul has very little visible Asian history (as compared to Japan, and BKK - I guess from all the invasions and occupations)
After joining the crowd for a respectful moment, we toured the market for a bit. Actually, this is the 'night market' and the largest and the wholesale one and I think we were there too early in the day. It wasn't up and moving so much yet. I was most fascinated with going through the alleys where they were doing the cooking. They can take 10 square feet, a space 5 by 2, and produce what seems like tons of food for a dining room. Of course, when they are squatting on the floor, washing pots and pans etc., I kinda wonder...... DS was not in for a long shopping bit and we didn't come across areas that particularly interested us (but we also didn't cover the whole market - you can tell Mom would have shopped much longer - should have had Carol with me!) so we moved on to Insadong. Insadong was beginning to come to life and was more upscale and was frankly, focused on the tourists. Now we are hungry again and DS finds a placed called Sanchon which is Vegetarian and run by a man who spent 20 years as a monk. The place is charming, wonderful ambience. We dined on the floor (ondol) but this old back with all its hardware from back surgery will never try that again. It was painful! (but it looked so exotic and like such fun). We had a table covered in food - 12 dishes I believe - and tea and 6 dishes of condiments! We paid $22 per person but at 4:00 pm but dinner is $35 and includes Korean dancers and music. That would be a deal (since we paid $35 for the dancers only at Korea House - later that evening - but I get ahead of myself).
Awoke in the am and leisurely went to breakfast at the hotel buffet (expensive but good). Then we started out to Namdaemun market. Namdaemum market starts at the South Gate. The taxi driver tells us that the South Gate burned last night (NOW I know!). When we arrive and get out, the area is loaded with South Koreans just standing and staring - some taking pictures with their cell phones, or cameras, and some professionals taking pictures (equipment gives them away.) The smell of the fire is still permeating the air; the aura is of grief and mourming - very somber!. I felt I was a part of an important moment in Korean history. (The South Gate was the oldest historical structure in Seoul and was built with the NE&W gate and walls to keep out the Chinese).Seoul has very little visible Asian history (as compared to Japan, and BKK - I guess from all the invasions and occupations)
After joining the crowd for a respectful moment, we toured the market for a bit. Actually, this is the 'night market' and the largest and the wholesale one and I think we were there too early in the day. It wasn't up and moving so much yet. I was most fascinated with going through the alleys where they were doing the cooking. They can take 10 square feet, a space 5 by 2, and produce what seems like tons of food for a dining room. Of course, when they are squatting on the floor, washing pots and pans etc., I kinda wonder...... DS was not in for a long shopping bit and we didn't come across areas that particularly interested us (but we also didn't cover the whole market - you can tell Mom would have shopped much longer - should have had Carol with me!) so we moved on to Insadong. Insadong was beginning to come to life and was more upscale and was frankly, focused on the tourists. Now we are hungry again and DS finds a placed called Sanchon which is Vegetarian and run by a man who spent 20 years as a monk. The place is charming, wonderful ambience. We dined on the floor (ondol) but this old back with all its hardware from back surgery will never try that again. It was painful! (but it looked so exotic and like such fun). We had a table covered in food - 12 dishes I believe - and tea and 6 dishes of condiments! We paid $22 per person but at 4:00 pm but dinner is $35 and includes Korean dancers and music. That would be a deal (since we paid $35 for the dancers only at Korea House - later that evening - but I get ahead of myself).
Feb 18th, 2008, 02:49 PM
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I need to get this finished because I'm already distracted with planning another trip.
Bob, the food is the same as it was 14 years ago - maybe more American FF choices.
After dining at Sanchon in Insadong,
we left the area for The Korea House. We had reservations for the folk dance show (had been advised to skip the dinner and show). DS was not happy after the vegetarian feast, so we had to stop at a Starbucks near Korea House. A look at the young, affluent Koreans. Then to the show. The building is historical and very much in the style of the palaces. Then a small theater for the show. The dancers were beautiful, the costumes equally so and the dancing intriguing. The music, well, I can just say my ears are too western!
After the performance, the performers mingled with the audience in the lobby and sat for pictures.
Next day, we had a flight mid afternoon so didn't want to get stranded by traffic too far away. So we went to a 'spa' recommended by the hotel and others. I separate 'spa' because I believe I would have labeled it 'baths', but then I have limited experience in this area. I went for the salt scrub and a massage and really didn't know what I was getting into.
I think it is just an ordinary Korean spa, but I don't have a frame of reference except American, and it definitely was totally different. I always meant to try the baths in Turkey, but didn't. Well, that morning I got up, showered, washed and dried my hair.
As I entered the spa, she gives me a scrubbing style, soapy bathcloth, and a pan and guides me to one of maybe 10 showers. I don't argue (didnt't) have enough Korean language to do that. Then I take the cloth back to her and she takes to the center of 3 large hottubs and motions for me to sit down. Wow - was it hot!. But I acclimated feet first and finally took the plunge. After about 15 minutes, a lady on the other side of the tub caught my eye and motioned a place around the tub for me to go sit. I found it was the inlet and was a prized seat! After a few minutes there, the same lady motioned to another spot - the major inlet with lots of pressure!
So after a bit of that experience, the masseuse came over and motioned me out. Now the salt scrub. I'm not sure how many layers of skin one has, but I'm missing the top 5 at least! AND she seemed to go over each area 3 different times. Being there with nothing but sign language was a trip! It was verrrry thorough! Then after her washing the table, she started the oil and 'ma-sa-gee' as she called it (don't laugh - it was the only word I understood all day!) The massage was more physical than an American massage, but I don't think as physical as a Thai massage.
After the massage, and having been there 2 hours, she turns my head down to the end by the water and she shampoos my hair!. Well, finally time to oooze out of there, and face the real, cold, Korean world again. Oh - after maybe half an hour (I know - I'm slow) I had this light bulb moment - when I saw the l8 year olds, the middle age and the really old, as well as the grandmothers with the really little ones - maybe 3 to 5 years old -both male and female - when it dawned on me what a cultural experience it was!! I would imagine it is as much an across the ages and across socioeconomic lines as it is in the US to go to beauty salon or barbershop!! Well, I never felt so clean in my life!
After the spa, we stopped a a restaurant a block from the hotel. We used the travelers picture book to order beef. So I ask DS what kind of beef and his eyes do the deer in the headlite expression and he says whatever they bring us! So we wait expectantly and it arrives -boiling broth with 'stuff' in it. Well, it tastes okay but in the US beef broth is brown and this is white, but not creamy. Then we discover the dish of rice with it and put the rice into the broth and now it's actually good. I don't know what we ate, but it was fine.
As we left I turned and looked back and EVERY eye in the place was staring at us. I guess even though we were in a major business area a block away from a prominent hotel, not many westerners go into local restaurants.
Seoul is easy to navigate transportation wise, but language was difficult. DS speaks a handful of European languages and can usually find one to fit, so it was interesting to observe his discomfort. Mom being an uno- language or mono-language or just plain lazy American, is very accustomed to sign language.
To me Seoul was clean, felt safe,and tourist maps were good. It was also relatively expensive. I think it was pretty middle of the road since it's not as chaotic as BKK or as surrounded by history/religion as BKK or Japan. I could have filled another 3 or 4 days with interesting experiences but we did out best to fill our time with a vaiety of activities that said Seoul.
Bob, the food is the same as it was 14 years ago - maybe more American FF choices.
After dining at Sanchon in Insadong,
we left the area for The Korea House. We had reservations for the folk dance show (had been advised to skip the dinner and show). DS was not happy after the vegetarian feast, so we had to stop at a Starbucks near Korea House. A look at the young, affluent Koreans. Then to the show. The building is historical and very much in the style of the palaces. Then a small theater for the show. The dancers were beautiful, the costumes equally so and the dancing intriguing. The music, well, I can just say my ears are too western!
After the performance, the performers mingled with the audience in the lobby and sat for pictures.
Next day, we had a flight mid afternoon so didn't want to get stranded by traffic too far away. So we went to a 'spa' recommended by the hotel and others. I separate 'spa' because I believe I would have labeled it 'baths', but then I have limited experience in this area. I went for the salt scrub and a massage and really didn't know what I was getting into.
I think it is just an ordinary Korean spa, but I don't have a frame of reference except American, and it definitely was totally different. I always meant to try the baths in Turkey, but didn't. Well, that morning I got up, showered, washed and dried my hair.
As I entered the spa, she gives me a scrubbing style, soapy bathcloth, and a pan and guides me to one of maybe 10 showers. I don't argue (didnt't) have enough Korean language to do that. Then I take the cloth back to her and she takes to the center of 3 large hottubs and motions for me to sit down. Wow - was it hot!. But I acclimated feet first and finally took the plunge. After about 15 minutes, a lady on the other side of the tub caught my eye and motioned a place around the tub for me to go sit. I found it was the inlet and was a prized seat! After a few minutes there, the same lady motioned to another spot - the major inlet with lots of pressure!
So after a bit of that experience, the masseuse came over and motioned me out. Now the salt scrub. I'm not sure how many layers of skin one has, but I'm missing the top 5 at least! AND she seemed to go over each area 3 different times. Being there with nothing but sign language was a trip! It was verrrry thorough! Then after her washing the table, she started the oil and 'ma-sa-gee' as she called it (don't laugh - it was the only word I understood all day!) The massage was more physical than an American massage, but I don't think as physical as a Thai massage.
After the massage, and having been there 2 hours, she turns my head down to the end by the water and she shampoos my hair!. Well, finally time to oooze out of there, and face the real, cold, Korean world again. Oh - after maybe half an hour (I know - I'm slow) I had this light bulb moment - when I saw the l8 year olds, the middle age and the really old, as well as the grandmothers with the really little ones - maybe 3 to 5 years old -both male and female - when it dawned on me what a cultural experience it was!! I would imagine it is as much an across the ages and across socioeconomic lines as it is in the US to go to beauty salon or barbershop!! Well, I never felt so clean in my life!
After the spa, we stopped a a restaurant a block from the hotel. We used the travelers picture book to order beef. So I ask DS what kind of beef and his eyes do the deer in the headlite expression and he says whatever they bring us! So we wait expectantly and it arrives -boiling broth with 'stuff' in it. Well, it tastes okay but in the US beef broth is brown and this is white, but not creamy. Then we discover the dish of rice with it and put the rice into the broth and now it's actually good. I don't know what we ate, but it was fine.
As we left I turned and looked back and EVERY eye in the place was staring at us. I guess even though we were in a major business area a block away from a prominent hotel, not many westerners go into local restaurants.
Seoul is easy to navigate transportation wise, but language was difficult. DS speaks a handful of European languages and can usually find one to fit, so it was interesting to observe his discomfort. Mom being an uno- language or mono-language or just plain lazy American, is very accustomed to sign language.
To me Seoul was clean, felt safe,and tourist maps were good. It was also relatively expensive. I think it was pretty middle of the road since it's not as chaotic as BKK or as surrounded by history/religion as BKK or Japan. I could have filled another 3 or 4 days with interesting experiences but we did out best to fill our time with a vaiety of activities that said Seoul.
Feb 18th, 2008, 03:17 PM
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I tried to edit out some mistakes but again the process is not working for me. Guess you just aren't supposed to make any!
We did go to the Tower to view the city but it was disappointing. They have a cable car to the top but tons of steps up to the cable car and after the cable car, tons of steps to the tower. AND Seoul was never clear while we were there.
I forgot about the incidence at the DMZ zone. I think I mentioned lots of rules about stuff -but what do you expect in a 'war zone'. One of these rules included not taking pictures in front of a yellow line that was painted across the middle of the floor of the observation deck. Well I turned around to see a Korean soldier having a loud conversation with DS. I didn't immediately know why but moved a little closer, as did our guide.
Momentarily I had nightmares of son being held there etc, etc. However, the soldier settled for taking his camera. A little later I - with extreme casualness - strolled by the soldier who was holding my son's camera (I forgot to bring one) and CASUALLY asked him if he was going to keep the camera. This was after I realized he wasn't going to keep DS. He said he would return it when we left. And he did - minus only the 2 pictures DS had taken surreptiously (ha, ha).
To see the DMZ zone is special. But the most memorable experience was being a part of the crowd and sensing the grief and sorrow of the Koreans in front of the burned South Gate. A fateful day and one I'll always remember.
We did go to the Tower to view the city but it was disappointing. They have a cable car to the top but tons of steps up to the cable car and after the cable car, tons of steps to the tower. AND Seoul was never clear while we were there.
I forgot about the incidence at the DMZ zone. I think I mentioned lots of rules about stuff -but what do you expect in a 'war zone'. One of these rules included not taking pictures in front of a yellow line that was painted across the middle of the floor of the observation deck. Well I turned around to see a Korean soldier having a loud conversation with DS. I didn't immediately know why but moved a little closer, as did our guide.
Momentarily I had nightmares of son being held there etc, etc. However, the soldier settled for taking his camera. A little later I - with extreme casualness - strolled by the soldier who was holding my son's camera (I forgot to bring one) and CASUALLY asked him if he was going to keep the camera. This was after I realized he wasn't going to keep DS. He said he would return it when we left. And he did - minus only the 2 pictures DS had taken surreptiously (ha, ha).
To see the DMZ zone is special. But the most memorable experience was being a part of the crowd and sensing the grief and sorrow of the Koreans in front of the burned South Gate. A fateful day and one I'll always remember.
Feb 26th, 2008, 06:15 PM
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Thank you for your report! My son is living in Korea, teaching English and I am planning a trip for mid April. May I ask why you decided on Korea? As others have mentioned there seem to be few people who travel to Korea and I am curious what made you decide to go. Your spa experience sounds like some of the ones my son has reported. He had one massage that left him bruised! The latest spa trend is sitting naked in a tub with little fishes that eat the dead skin off of you! I don't think I will try that cultural experience!
Feb 27th, 2008, 04:11 PM
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Mary2go - I think you would enjoy a trip to Korea - even more so with a bilingual guide for free!
I LOVED the spa experience and recommend it.However, I also would forego the 'fish tank'! I even saw about 6 - 9 or l0 yr old boys after school come marching in for their 'bath'.
Why did I chose Korea? Because my son was going there and invited me to join him. I'm difficult to please - I'll go ANYWHERE - at least once. Also, I read "Still Life With Rice" by Helie Lee, an American Korean, and it brought Korea into reality for me and piqued my curiosity.
Have fun and share your experience with us at Fodors when you return.
I LOVED the spa experience and recommend it.However, I also would forego the 'fish tank'! I even saw about 6 - 9 or l0 yr old boys after school come marching in for their 'bath'.
Why did I chose Korea? Because my son was going there and invited me to join him. I'm difficult to please - I'll go ANYWHERE - at least once. Also, I read "Still Life With Rice" by Helie Lee, an American Korean, and it brought Korea into reality for me and piqued my curiosity.
Have fun and share your experience with us at Fodors when you return.
Feb 27th, 2008, 05:54 PM
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Winter,
Thanks for the book info, I will have to check it out before I go. I share your "anywhere once" philosophy. I have my list of must see's but if offered something else I would jump on it! I have been to Japan twice and loved it, having had a lifelong interest in the culture. I had not given much thought to Korea until my son wound up there and I was kind of surprised at the lack of interest in Korea that I have encountered here and other travel resources, especially when there is such a huge interest for almost every other Asian country.
I will post my experiences when I get back!
Thanks for the book info, I will have to check it out before I go. I share your "anywhere once" philosophy. I have my list of must see's but if offered something else I would jump on it! I have been to Japan twice and loved it, having had a lifelong interest in the culture. I had not given much thought to Korea until my son wound up there and I was kind of surprised at the lack of interest in Korea that I have encountered here and other travel resources, especially when there is such a huge interest for almost every other Asian country.
I will post my experiences when I get back!
