kdk1965

A heartfelt thank you to all of you who were such amazing help as I planned this trip. It was wonderful, and wouldn't have been nearly as grand without so much input from all of you. We spent the first day travelling and then one day doing Bangkok and another doing the floating market and Kanchanaburi. Day 4 we travelled to Chiang Mai and visited the night market and then days 5-8 were spent having a blast in and around Chiang Mai. Day 9 we flew bakc to Bangkok and spent the day seeing all there is to see in the MBK mall before flying home.

Those are the bare bones. Read further for additional bits of fun.

Again, thanks to all of you for helping me plan a trip enjoyed by all 11 of us, from the 2 year old to the 45 year old.


Mary in Korea

kdk1965

It was the best of times, complete with fun and frolic for all 11 of us for 9 days, through the big city of Bangkok, carousing on the river Kwai, (rhymes with hay not eye), tangling with tigers at the tiger temple, and all of the joys of Chiang Mai.

Day 1 we left Taegu, South Korea on an Air Asia flight to Gimpo in Seoul. We had a flight leaving from Incheon in a little over 2 hours so we asked for and received “doorside” stickers on our luggage. Upon arrival we swooped down, grabbed our bags that were first off, and jumped on a bus to ICN where we caught out flights. The smartest thing we did that day, bar none, was have Gal of Magical Routes arrange to have us picked up there at the airport. He also arranged for VIP service through customs, and then our escort tucked us into the van. The driver took us to Suk 11 where our family had a suite that held all six of us and another suite held the family of five.

Suk 11 is a great hostel with true personality. It is well under a block to the Nana sky train station and incredibly convenient to the Limoncello Italian pizzeria. The Suk 11’s breakfast was a simple but filling one of seasonal fruit, banana bread, croissants, toast and jam. The folks who run it were super, and they always seemed to welcome our rather energetic crowd that included 7 children ages 14, 11, 8, 8, 6, 4, and 2. The hallways are filled with dark wood and each seems to have a personality of its own. My children were enchanted with the beam bridge floor area and they loved all the different items in the nooks and crannies. The A/C was cold, bedding was clean and the showers perfect. Three nights was less than 100$ total.

kdk1965

Day 2, Friday, was a busy one. After a fast breakfast we hit the streets, headed for the station. At Sukhumvit we turned right and almost immediately hit the stairs. We bought all day passes and were quickly enchanted by the friendliness of the Thai people. Our children always had a seat, even during rush hour as the Thai would leap up to give their seats. The excited wonderment on our faces seemed to make them smile and I felt like our joy in the moment was reflected around us. Every temple we saw, and there were plenty, was a chance to ooh and ahh. And we weren’t even near the Grand Palace!
Eventually, we bought tickets for the ferry and up we went to the Grand Palace dock. There we passed the various stalls of tourist items and ignored the requisite man telling us the Grand Palace was closed. We marched right along the incredibly white and long wall, entered the area and goggled at the uniformed police/military on the left, and thankfully weren’t stopped by the dress police regarding anyone’s dress. Once tickets were purchased, we stopped in at the coin museum, saw the Emerald Buddha’s off-season outfits and enjoyed the brief respite from the heat and humidity outside.
The Grand Palace was simply amazing! Everywhere we looked it was a feast for the senses. Gold layered on more gold, so much so that at one point I felt overwhelmed by the sheer majesty. Seeing the Emerald Buddha was impressive on many levels, one being that this is a working shrine and I felt like the gawking tourist I was. High above us all, the Emerald Buddha perched, so much so that I came away with the sheer height as a major component to the WOW factor. Incense added an olfactory layer to the experience and the heat was absolutely sapping. I was very thankful I had rushed us all out at 8am.
We didn’t stay long, only long enough to take a few pictures and wander around just a bit. We should’ve carried more water, and the few umbrellas we brought for shaded were passed around and shared amongst us all.
Once out we stopped for water, hats and fresh fruit from a man selling pineapple, mangoes, and other fruit. The kids enjoyed it all and I wondered if the Thai have a mango equivalent to the Mexicans of mango with lime and chili. Guess I’ll have to find out on my next visit.
Next was the Temple of the Reclining Buddha where we were all suitable amazed at the sheer size and magnificence of the statue. Even though I had done research and knew he was huge, I didn’t really “get it” until I was there.
Outside we stood debating the wisdom of simply hopping in taxis to get to MBK mall. While we stood there dithering, a man came up behind the 6 year old and draped a boa around her neck. So, picture this petite, white-blond haired little girl startled beyond imagining and a bit frightened to say the least, with a boa constrictor around her neck, circumference the size of a man’s upper arm. It was a moment to say the least. Once he had the snake off of her, my twins began to beg to wear the snake themselves. So they did, and I took pictures, which did come out, even though I shuddered the entire time. Wearing a snake has never been one of my personal goals.
We must’ve paid him enough because he took the time to wave down two taxis and we were soon off to the MBK. The 14 year old dozed while I continued to ogle everything out of the window. I still can’t believe we made it to Thailand. J
At the MBK we thought we found the food court but were unimpressed. (Later on we found out that we hadn’t really found it, but that is days away.) The families split into the group headed for kid food and the family headed for Chinese. My family ate Chinese and my twins fought me for my dim sum. We did a little shopping, pricing mostly, and then grabbed taxis at the taxi stand.
One thing I really like about the MBK was the doorman of sorts who kept things orderly at the taxi stand. We told him we wanted to go to the Queen Saovabha Memorial Institute and Snake Farm and made it in time for the video and then the show. It was awesome and we all ended up posing for pictures with snakes around our necks, much smaller snakes I would like to point out. Best of all, the center is really peaceful, with lovely trees and nice places to sit, assuming you can simply forget about the snakes so very close. The show itself was informative and there is something fascinating about four cobras swarming around while the handlers seem so very nonchalant.
By then it was about 4pm and we were all pretty beat. We took a round about way back to the hostel, a little walking, a little taxi, a lot of sky train. My husband Rick discovered that you cannot take a coffee onto the sky train and I discovered that the interesting looking old woman selling flowers for your wrist increased our price tenfold for the flowers. (Another discovery made too late.)
We had intended to set out again about 5:30pm, to see Wat Arun at dusk but we lost our impetus when we discovered I had forgotten the sky train tickets in the room. By the time we ran back again it seemed too late and we ended up running out to Suam Lum night bazaar for a little journal shopping. We taxied back and stopped for dinner at the Limoncello Pizzeria where we had a delicious dinner, albeit expensive by Thailand’s price standards. However, we live in Korea and were so thrilled to find good Italian that we simply enjoyed. Once home we showered and collapsed into bed, eager for the upcoming day with Cherry, of Magical Routes tours.

kdk1965

Before going into Day 3, I have to tell you that I am one who enjoys pinching pennies before splurging, be it a trip, shopping, jewelry, whatever. I think nothing of using coupons on ten items before buying premium deli meat or the best steak cuts I can find. My girlfriend, Angie, mom of the other family, is the same way, but worse. She’s still reeling from the reality of paying so much to get her little girls here and there. So, when we priced this tour with Magical Routes she was a bit shocked. However, I decided we were doing it. For me, the joy of letting go and letting someone else do the planning and worrying on this trip was worth it. In terms of decisions made for this trip, I think the decision to hire Cherry was the best one of all. The day we spent with her was, bar none, the best if all our days. I regret not having her with us through the wats in Bangkok. I’ll rave more about her later, but her professionalism and ability to make our day so enchanting will always be remembered and appreciated.

rhkkmk

i'm so glad that everthing worked out for you and that gal and cherry provided that extra bit to make it even more enjoyable....i knew you would love the service they provide...

i love the report so far and look forward to more...

bob

kdk1965

Bob, they were simply fantastic! I don't know if this is the place to post it or not, but Gal answered all of my emailed questions and volunteered all sorts of assistance afterwards. (This is bigger than it sounds because I like to be as well grounded in where I am going before I leave as I can be!) Cherry was so warm and helpful, and her willingness to share bits and pieces about her life with Gal enriched our understanding of Thailand, giving us a personal viewpoint. She played with, held, and helped us watch our kiddos, even going so far as to purchase clothing more suitable for the Tiger Temple for several of our children. (Read and orange are simply not good colors to wear around tigers....duh!) By the end of the day I felt like I had gained more than just a tourist experience; I had gained a friend.

Enough gushing. I am headed off to the theater tonight but will sit down and do the next day today.

althom1122

Thoroughly enjoying your report. Can't wait for more. I'd have totally freaked out if someone had sneaked up behind us with a boa constricter.

Gpanda

M in K-no detail is too small. Most of us ruminate over minute differences in plans. Your recital provides great opportunity for further contemplation. Not to mention that it transports us back to Thailand. I can assure you that Bob is greatly relieved that Gal and Cherry worked out so well for you.

kdk1965

Here we go. I got back from Grease and wanted to get at least one more day down on this "book."


Day 3, Sunday April 9:
Knowing we would be relatively tired, this was to be a down day for us for the most part. We got up and the doorman at the Suk 11 grabbed taxis for us. The trip to the airport was fast and easy; I guess Sunday morning traffic is the same everywhere. Once we arrived I was amazed at the incredibly long lines at Air Asia. Apparently we were not alone in our desire to head north. Naturally, the line moved at its usual speed when I am in it—extremely, mind numbingly slow. This trend is one that follows me from grocery store to commissary to exchange. Eventually we got smart about it and the two dads took the 7 milling children to the back rope to play their Gameboys and wiggle around. (Parent note: If you deny children their electronics when on the majority of the trip they simply ooze into the games at these critical moments. The other travelers will thank you. )
The flight was uneventful, and I got some time with the Chiang Mai maps I had bought on line. Nancy Chandler’s maps were good for me, even if they are a bit overwhelming visually. They did catch the attention of a lady from India and we chatted briefly. I love that part of traveling and believe it enriches an already wondrous trip.
We arrived to discover that the Hotel Lotus Pang shuttle had already left. So, we took taxis. I left the men to get the luggage and grabbed tickets from the booth directly to the left as you exit the baggage area. This allowed us to move to the front of the line outside, once baggage arrived and competition thickened at the taxi stand. My taxi driver was amazingly friendly, right up until the moment I told him that we had already made prior arrangements for transportation. He then became equally silent. No worries; my eyes matched my 8-year-old’s; full of wonderment but with the adult realization that I was in THAILAND.
Check in went smoothly and our rooms were lovely. The Lotus Pang is a huge place that conveniently connects to the mall. This was great for Songkhran sales, as well as for feeding hungry children and adults. Drawbacks include slightly worn and outdated bathrooms as well as a night musical act that thankfully ends at 10pm or so. I now know why one review I read mentioned the Asian Elvis. Get your imagination going and then feed it steroids. Yep, you’ve got it.
I was beat. My youngest are 8 and I thought the twins would kill me when they were younger. (I am one of those who didn’t play to have children, never babysat, you get the picture. Now, 4 children later, plus four bonus children, and here I am.) However, traveling with good friends with small children all at least 2 years younger than mine did get to be just a little wearing. This is a reflection on me, not them. They really were fine. It’s just that I think I am past the point of being gracious around children I want to spank mostly because of my own exhaustion. In any case, we all took a few moments for rest in the rooms, after going our own ways for lunch. I would think this would be a critical component of any group of families. At some point each family just needs to regroup. We did and life got better.
The evening was spent at the night market, a serious improvement in prices from what we had seen in Bangkok. Upon arrival we agreed to reconvene in an hour in order to actually go down the street. However, my husband and I ran into the family of foot masseuses and there we stopped. The two of us, and the youngest three—ages 8, 8, and 11—all sat down and for $1.50 each were rejuvenated via massage and oil. Thirty minutes and one picture later we were off again, much refreshed. At our rendezvous the men decided to head back with the kiddos and we gals shopped until Angie dropped. Somewhere along the way she had a foot massage and I a shoulder massage, never a bad thing to do with 60 baht. Perhaps Thailand has a secret there with those massages. I am NOT a shopper and yet those two massages were better than any café I had in Italy for keeping the engine running.
We had dinner at the Art Café, a nice place for tom yum soup. I asked for it to be spicy and it was perfect, just a shade under too spicy to eat. Mango ice cream was a nice finish and then we took a tuktuk back to the hotel. To say we slept solidly is an understatement.

kdk1965

Oh, and by the way, please read "red" for "read" in the above post.

Bob, they were wonderful. Rest assured, while I am fairly easy to please, and do like squeezing nickles until pennies pop out. "You did good!" as we would say in Texas.

rhkkmk

ok, so now we are all dying to know....are you military in korea or civilians working in korea?? or did you pick korea out as a place to emegrate to?? haha

kdk1965

We are here as kimchee importers. You see, kimchee has medical properties, and soon Americans will realize that and want it desperately. AS you know, once Americans begin clamoring for something...

*grin*

Actually, we are here under DoDEA orders. I teach. We will be here at least two more years before I gain enough seniority to be able to transfer to another area of the world to explore.

Day 4 will have to wait until after church. It will likely be the middle of the night for most of you by the time it is posted.

rhkkmk

i only read the first part and went right down stairs and filled my gut with kimchee....now i feel like i am going to be sick....

so i have returned to the computer and read the rest of it and now i will be sick....good thing you went to church today or i would have to be mean to you....haha

kdk1965

Now Bob, just eat a little of the dried fish kimchee and that will settle your tummy. Or, I have some lovely jalepeno kimchee one of my student's moms made for me.



I guess I should've warned you--I teach middle school and love it! That means I am just the tiniest bit warped

Day 4, Monday April 10
Before leaving Korea, Angie had booked us into a 4-day van rental with North Wheels. For about $50.00 a day, plus fuel, we had a driver who spoke enough English to get us where we wanted to go. We had scheduled him from 8am-6pm, and we did try to leave on time. We almost succeeded as it was 8:20am when we left the hotel for the Elephant Conservatory just north of Lampang. I had read that it was more conservation minded than most places like it and that was important to me. I was sold on it when I read about the hospital and the elephants recovering from injuries caused by land mines. I may have a former military spouse, but I am appalled at the deadly garbage war leaves behind.
About an hour or so later we rolled into the conservatory, bought tickets and hopped on the bus that transported us just in time to see the elephants bathing. That was a Kodak moment, complete with mahouts armed with scrub brushes and elephants playing with the water. Several photographers got water-snotted by elephants; I, thankfully, was not one of them. Eventually they came out and we had a chance to feed elephants, big and small, the sugar cane we had purchased at the ticket booth. There is something whimsical about watching small children—and we had our fair share—feed giant elephants that gently whisked away the small snacks we offered.
From there we went to the show. I bored easily and can only take so much of that kind of thing. While the rest of the family watched elephants raising flags, bowing and performing a variety of tricks, I took off for the souvenir shop where I bought darling little cards made with dung paper. (How naughty would I be if I had my children write their father using these adorable cards?) Upon my return the elephants finished with their paintings and I could tell one elephants was obviously more of a fan of modern art than the other.
Finally we got to the riding part. We split onto three elephants, with my older two boys going off on their own. I had the twins with me, and felt like I might lose one through the bars of the seat when we went down into the river. I really wish I had been able to tuck my knees behind the elephant’s ears like our mahout. Riding did remind me somewhat of riding horses in the sense that it was best to keep my spine lose and not rigid. So much for posture; a small slouch helped me roll with the elephant’s rhythm.
The best part of the ride happened about half way through. Londyn, the 2 year old, dropped her tiny stuffed elephant while riding. So, the elephant picked it up for her and handed it up to the mahout. I have this great picture but the stuffed elephant is so tiny you cannot see it at the end of the trunk. Londyn truly is adorable and she now has a memory to tap unlike anyone else’s.
One thing I regret is not buying the pictures of all of us riding the elephants. My cheapskate mode kicked in but the pictures were only about $4.00 each. Should’ve would’ve could’ve never does get me far.
We made a stop to buy t-shirts before leaving and were thankful to get into the air-conditioned interior of the van. After a quick lunch stop we then headed to Bo Sang and enjoyed the umbrella village to no end. The best painting was done by several of the men at the front of the line but all were good.
By then we were a bit frazzled and decided to go to Doi Suthep to see the wat. Looking at a map it appears we did not necessarily spend the day wisely; however we knocked off the out of the way locations and that made it worthwhile to us.
Doi Suthep was wonderful. Our family with the longer legged kiddos went up the stairs while the other family took the trolley. The naga staircase is impressive, as are the amazing buildings at the top. Maybe it was due to Songkhran, but I enjoyed the religious atmosphere at this and other wats we visited. My children, practicing Catholics mind you, have now been blessed repeatedly by a fair number of Buddhist monks. Their interest is palpable, even if that interest is centered on ringing the bells and having strings tied around their wrists. My only regret is my own ignorance because I think understanding what we saw would have enriched the experience significantly.
We headed home about dusk, going down the mountain so quickly that at one point we had to move one of the kiddos up to the front. Once home, we decided to order room service. It arrived, we ate and after baths went to bed, again falling onto the mattresses exhausted. My journaling really reflects my level of energy. Whereas the other days are pages long, this single day is less than one page, a list and not an entry.

rhkkmk

mary--i can't read this last chapter tonight but will tomorrow.....did you have a spa day with cherry??

kdk1965

No, I didn't and it is something I regret. I really would've enjoyed it I think.

kdk1965

Day 6, Tuesday April 11
I inadvertently left out of yesterday’s report when we cancelled the driver for the rest of his days. While at the wat we all had a moment to visit about what we managed to get done. Since so many of the out-of-the-way places were now done we decided to do songthaews and tuk-tuks. This decision ended up being a Godsend as it allowed us all to go off in separate directions. Angie had really wanted to see a hill tribe while I was extremely reluctant. All of us were interested in a golden triangle trip; however, I didn’t want to spend 8 hours in the van. By canceling the van and driver she was able to go off and do her trip and I got to take my kids somewhere they really enjoyed.
So, day 6 begins and no one wants to get up. Imagine that! So, I call over and explain the situation to Angie who admits to being pretty tired herself. We end up going our separate ways for the next three days. Rick and I ordered a pot of coffee to be brought up to the room, as we did every day we were there, and enjoyed sitting on the couch in the sitting area. Previously we had re-angled the couch to face the mountains and so had a bit of a view to go with our caffeine fix. This is a morning routine we stick to fairly religiously at home. With four children in the house it is usually the only time we have to talk without interruption.
The kids all slept in a little and then we went for the breakfast buffet that was included in the hotel rate. There was an omelet and fried egg station as well as another station geared to Chinese tourists. I never did try the soup in the morning idea, another minor regret. The coconut pancakes, about the circumference of a quarter, were yummy, as was the fresh fruit. One of the many little extras Cherry provided was an opportunity to taste pomelo and rose apple. As a result, the minute my husband saw rose apple on the buffet he made a beeline for it. The breakfast meats included what appeared to be Vienna sausages and slices of ham similar to lunchmeat. Overall, breakfast was a disappointment, even though it appeared impressive at first. Should we decide to visit Chiang Mai again we would definitely choose different lodging, not because anything was bad, but more because it was merely okay/fine.
One place I had seen in the Fodor’s book was the Insect Museum. Turns out it was only a couple of blocks from the hotel. So, off we go, walking the direction we were told by the doorman. We inevitably get turned around and ask for directions. We are pointed to the left, and off we go again, thrilled to be seeing some of the real Thailand. Walking around, simply seeing what there is to see, is one of my favorite ways to get to know a country. We see a woman selling fried bananas and try to verify that we are going the right direction. She looks at the name in Thai in my Fodor’s book, and begins talking very fast in Thai. I smile and shrug, and explain in English that I don’t understand. She gets her husband from the house and he explains in English that we should go back to the main street and turn left—back the way we came. They were lovely people and this was representative of all interactions we had with local people in Thailand.
We get to the street, walk about half a block and decided forget this. It’s hot and maybe a songthaew would be fun to try. So, we wave one down, agree to his price of 40B and pay. The six of us climb into the back, just tickled to be trying this out. We pass a sum total of about 10 buildings and he stops. We are there. I get a minor kick out of being snookered and he asks if he can wait for us. Sure we say, but I guarantee we got a better deal afterwards!
The Insect Museum is a fascinating collection of Dr. Manop R., a famed entomologist. He discovered and named 22 species of mosquitoes and is a leading expert even today. Over 70 years old, he appears to be at least a decade younger. His philosophies are part of the museum and we all found it absolutely enthralling. The museum is in a residence, so it isn’t big and overwhelming. Instead it is cozy, and includes places to sit. My children peppered him with questions, each of which he patiently answered. When he saw they were genuinely interested he took the time to talk about how to find bug specimens—follow the ants, how to preserve them, and even how to re-hydrate them so that you can position them on a display. He was good-natured about the countless bugs the twins would manage to find, including a cockroach and several mosquitoes. His philosophy, “God made everything for a reason,” simply permeated every amazing display. I resolved to eat more meat when I saw the pictures of a disease carried by mosquitoes in the area. Dr. R said that the disease occurs mostly in locals who have a low protein diet.
We said goodbye and thank you to the good doc before stepping out to find the songthaew driver waiting for us. He agreed to 250 B until 2pm, with the rider that we would pay more if we needed him past that time. I admit; it took reminding him of our 40B, less than a block first ride to come to agreement.

Our first stop was Wat Suan Dok where the monks blessed us all, after waving us up in front of the locals. I would rather have waited our turn, but they were insistent. My eldest then sat down on one of the couches and visited with a monk who spoke English and who seemed happy to help him understand a little bit more about Buddhism. We exited, took pictures and wandered further into the complex area, stopping finally when my middle son found a monk who answered his questions and who gave us all a mini-lesson on wais. His explanation of other religions as viewed by Buddhists was, dare I say it, enlightening. It’s nice to find a religion in this day and age that views all religions as okay—just different paths to enlightenment. And so, our understanding of a complex religion deepened slowly, with minute layers carefully applied first by Cherry, guide extraordinaire, and now by the monks.
Wat U Mong was next, and it was just as enchanting as I thought it would be. My family renews itself in the country and frequently we find the big city we live in somewhat overwhelming. This forest wat was peaceful, set amongst beautiful trees. After buying fish and turtle food we followed a path that led us to the shore of a manmade lake. My children fed fish and turtles there before continuing on the path to the bridge to the island. There they fed more fish and turtles, comfortably resting on the benches in the shade of the trees. We continued on, finding the statue of the emaciated Buddha on top of the hill and the caves under it. We read the saying posted on the trees, all of which reflected a truth of one sort or another.
Our last stop for the day was the Tribal Museum. We watched the racehorses swimming in the lake and bought a couple of souvenirs after viewing the exhibits. This was probably our least favorite place, but it was likely due to our exhaustion more than anything else.
It was nearing two and we decided to head back. When the driver had to stop at a red light near the hotel, we saw The Sandwich Shop #2. We immediately took the opportunity to hop out and made arrangements for the driver to come get us the next day. Riding in the back of the Songthaew was really just as good for what we wanted as the air conditioned van had been the previous day. We got where we were going, the breeze coming in the sides was just as cooling, and we had shade—extremely important for fair-skinned me.
Lunch was delicious! We each had the sandwich of our choice, along with various shakes and homemade potato chips. Those were awesome!
Back at the hotel we all napped and even the kiddos dropped off to sleep. Afterwards, Rick and I left the hotel for a massage place we had seen on our morning walk. We had our first Thai massages—heaven in an hour—and then we all hopped in the free hotel shuttle for the night market.
We found it disappointing for the most part and didn’t purchase anything. We grabbed dinner at an Arabian restaurant that was seriously under par and ranks as the worst meal of the trip. Maybe that was why we didn’t care for this market, or perhaps we were all still exhausted. In any case, Rick and the two of the children had foot massages while I wandered around with the two that didn’t want them. Half an hour later and we hopped in separate tuk-tuks and were soon home. I paid 40 B for mine while Rick paid 60B for his. And so the day ended, with me getting a better deal in part because anyone who refused to bargain I simply left and went to the next driver. Having two adorable twins in hand likely didn’t hurt either.

gapa

Great read so far...details galore (as we all like it here...).seems like you guys had really lots of fun...

Have you done the Khanchanaburi day after the north, or just keeping the best for last..?

Looking forward for more excellent reading...

kdk1965

Here is Day 3. I am not sure how I missed submitting it. Blame it on trying to get too much done in too short a period of time. Also, please consider it plugged in as the read Day 3, and the one I wrote as Day 3 should be Day 4. This is what I get for posting material when it is still the first draft and unrevised. My apologies!

Day 3: Saturday Floating Market and Kanchanaburi with Cherry
During the planning stage I had not been all that keen in the floating market. Sure, it would be picturesque but I figured I could find pictures everywhere—which I did. However, Angie really wanted the floating market so it was the first item on the trip.
Cherry picked us up at 6:30am. Down we came and there she was, patiently waiting in the dining area of the Suk 11. We all loaded into the van after grabbing some bread at the 7-11 on the corner. We munched on bread and picked Cherry’s brain about Thailand and the places where we were headed. On the way we saw some men working on the side of the road and large piles of salt. Cherry explained the process of how the seawater evaporated, etc. We asked to stop and she said, “Of course.”
I am really excited about the pictures I took of the process. The salt is shoveled from the field and onto the pans that dangle from both sides of the carrying yokes that lie across the shoulders of the workmen. Once they are filled, the men slowly and carefully carry the salt and then dump it onto the piles. As we got closer we could see salt crystals everywhere, some as large as my fist. Ben, my 8-year-old son, tasted it and made such a horrible face that it made the workmen laugh. Before climbing into the van again we snapped additional photos of the mother and child who were there at the roadside, selling salt and other products. This was one place where the fight for equality simply hadn’t progressed. After all, how many would rather shovel salt than sell product?
Our next stop was what Cherry called a traditional house. There she explained many of the ways coconuts are processed. She also talked about spirit houses and we had a chance to walk around inside the house to see how people lived. Some things were obviously touristy, like the monkeys swinging in the cage, but it was really neat to sit on the back porch of this house. The canal was behind us and there was a cool breeze that tickled our necks as we looked about us. A huge beehive was hung from the rafters, reminding me of the way my mother collects old bird nests. If she had seen this beehive, I know she would’ve wanted it.
Once we arrived at the market, we got into the boats. Cherry encouraged us to avoid purchasing items on the canals as they were more expensive and as we were paddled about I really didn’t see anything I simply HAD to have. The experience of 30 leisurely minutes going down the canals, seeing the ladies in their wide brimmed, coned hats, and marveling at the international flavor of the other tourists is one I am glad not to have missed. Yes, it was touristy. And no, I don’t think I will go again. But it was memorable, in the same way our back canal trip in Venice was.
We did a little shopping at the market itself, and then we were off again. Cherry was fascinating and I regret not taping her. She shared about Thailand and about what it is like being her age and married. Being with her was like being with family.
The WWII cemetery was lovely, albeit hot by then. We were happy to move on fairly quickly to the JEATH War Memorial. It was fascinating and, as I talked with my children, I drew many parallels between what happened there and what my kiddos saw at Dachau. Cherry told us of how the villagers upstream, knowing the prisoners were starving, would attempt to float down food to them and how the Japanese would then punish the villagers. The pictures in the hut were very moving and being there reinforces how very lucky we all are.
Next we took a boat ride to the bridge, passing all sorts of interesting things happening on the shore. I can’t wait to watch the video to see it all come to life again. Eventually we got to the bridge and went under it to the dock on the other side. A few pictures topside and we were off again, this time to lunch.
Lunch was at Krasae station, simple but good and the children enjoyed feeding the fish. Then came what ended up being one of the highlights for the children—feeding wild monkeys. I still regret not getting a picture of the road sign, warning of a monkey crossing. I don’t think I have ever seen anything like it.
We fed sacks of bananas to monkeys, young and old. One mother with a baby dangling from her took a banana right from my daughter’s hand. (I am still hyperventilating about that.) The children were absolutely enchanted and the pictures were pretty amazing. As we were leaving another group of tourists came up, this time with corn on the cob, which the monkeys loved. I guess no one wants a steady diet of banana. Lol
From there we went to the Tiger Temple. This is where a monk was given an injured tiger that he took care of. Somehow, he became like a one-way adoption agency for tigers and all sorts of other animals. Somewhat like Dr. Doolittle, he has managed to gentle these creatures to the point of being able to have your picture taken with them. And yes, we did, with the exception of the 2 and 4 year olds. We donated money for the new enclosure they hope to build, touched and petted tigers and then eventually left. Before we left the monk came over and took the 8 and 11-year-old boys by the hand, having them even go so far as to sit on one of the tigers. It was simply amazing, almost surreal.
Twelve hours from when we started we were back home, stuffed full of memories that will last a lifetime. We had enjoyed every moment, from the amazing sites to the insights Cherry shared of Thai life, from the cold towels to the never ending supply of water and soft drinks that quenched out thirst. Cherry convinced me that a good tour guide is worth far more than the tour price!
The rest of the evening we spent checking out the tourist shops and stalls around the hostel as well as having pizza at Marios, one small street over. It was a great day.

kdk1965

Day 7, Wednesday April 12

We had arranged for our songthaew driver to come get us again at 8am and sure enough, he was right there promptly at 8. Unfortunately, we were running a little late so it wasn’t until almost 8:30am before we got out ready and excited about seeing more pandas. We had sent some at the zoo in Beijing, somewhat disappointing since the enclosures were so dark. The pictures were awful and the bears themselves somnolent. I had read that the Chiang Mai zoo had pandas and was hopeful the kiddos would get to see them.
After buying tickets at the entrance, our driver kindly drove us up to the African animals area. He parked and waited patiently as we meandered around. Because we got there right about the same time they opened, we got to see them feeding the giraffes as well as some rather spunky ostriches. The nocturnal cat area was interesting and I could really see a resemblance between at least one resident and some of the kitties I have had in Texas. Eventually we made it to the panda area where I took the younger three into the panda house while the older guys stayed outside.
The panda house was worth it, IMHO. The pandas were clearly visible and one was draped over a branch, almost as if he was posing. The other barely made it out and dropped, asleep on her (his?) feet. The area became relatively crowded, but the guards kept the noise down to almost nothing, something I appreciated even if the sleeping pandas didn’t care. With my zoom lens I was able to get some pretty neat pictures, several of which will make it into a scrapbook of one sort or another.
After the pandas we visited the big cats and enjoyed the beauty of the tigers. The enclosures are very nice, I believe, and a tribute to the efforts of the zoo to create relatively decent environments. On our way back to our songthaew we stopped and saw the storks. Sad to say, my children didn’t believe me when I said that the big one in the corner delivered the twins. I guess 8 is a bit too old for fairy tales, at least in this day and age of sex ed at the elementary levels.
Next on the agenda was the Monkey Centre and so we were off. Since it was the Wednesday before Songkhran, some of you know what we soon encountered: Water. Yes, precious, little darlings, most of them well under the age of prosecution, were lined along the street. And yes, they took particular delight in soaking us all, right through the open windows of the songthaew. My family loved it, every surprising moment of every splash.
We arrived to the center too early, decided to do something else instead, and ended up at the orchid/butterfly farm soon there after. The flowers were lovely and the butterflies must’ve been off playing with their own version of Songkhran since so few were visible. The black scorpions were accessible, though, much to the delight of the boys. As a Texan who has woken with them in the bed I admit to have less enthusiasm for the little/big creepy crawlies.
Back at the Centre we bought food for the baby monkeys and soon enough watched the show. The kids loved it and I enjoyed pieces of it. For whatever reason, possibly because we were in the front row and the kids were all but jumping up to volunteer, all of my kids became part of the show. I am proud to say that my eldest, Anthony, is almost as good at remembering where the hidden numbers are as the monkey, Lucky, was. He also made at least one other monkey happy when Anthony posed with the monkey resting on Anth’s head. I have it on film where the monkey began grooming Anthony’s head, the same head with a buzz cut. At least the monkey didn’t eat anything he found!
While at the Centre, Anthony did hold several of the small monkeys, feeding them bits of banana, which simply enchanted my eldest. This is one of the best parts of travel. Teenagers are notoriously jaded, bored, and many of them are busy rejecting all that their parents offer. Perhaps I have discovered a new secret to parenting, one that involves dragging the kids to far off locals for grooming by distant cousins and feeding the young. Maybe the way to keep that look of amazement is to expose them to amazing things that have nothing to do with M-TV or society’s demands. It is a bit more expensive than cable, but I think well worth it.
Once we were back in the songthaew, the kids got ready for the water experience they knew would come. One acted as the lookout and when he saw the water gangs he would scream, “Incoming!” This would immediately result in four faces crammed into the window area, eagerly awaiting the soaking gifts sure to arrive. I have this great picture of them all, waiting for water, and then the next shot of drenched children and water still flying in the air. Who couldn’t love this holiday?
Our final stop was Wat Jet Yot where my daughter Bonnie released several little birds for good luck. I read somewhere, maybe Fodor’s, that the birds are actually trained to return back home to their owners. Regardless, Bonnie managed to catch one of them in her hands and had to be coaxed to release it. “Truly, Honey, we cannot take it home to Korea. It wouldn’t know how to get home to its family.”
Lunch was again at Amazing Sandwich where we kicked back and relaxed in the AC. I walked down the street and checked my email for 10B, much cheaper than the 100B the hotel was charging for the same amount of time. When I returned the children had convinced their father that they NEEDED water guns. So, I come back and my children have joined Thai children on the street, shooting passing cars with streams of water. When they would run out of water, in they would come where the owners would help them refill in the kitchen sink. What mother couldn’t love a country where children are welcomed with open arms and ready faucets?
The rest of the afternoon was spent in a nap demanded by the parents and enjoyed by all, even the eldest teen. Then we took the reward-for-the nap-swim in the pool. One definite advantage of the Lotus Pang is the pool area. It was huge and absolutely lovely. After the swim we meandered in the mall for a little while before heading off to the Kantoke dinner at the Old Chiang Mai Cultural Center.
It was okay, with some parts being really neat. We arrived later than we should have, even though we booked through the hotel. We were told it was because the driver had hit traffic and was late but I had doubts. The meal was okay, and it was fun to watch the twins go after the pork rinds while my husband and I attacked the veggies. My eldest loved the curry, a surprise since he hasn’t ever seemed interested in curries before this. The show interested us all during the sword show and was lovely at certain points, but not a good option for relatively tired children and adults. It changed locations, why I am not sure, although perhaps it was to encourage us to buy from the tourist stands that lined the walkway. After about 10 minutes we decided that it would be best if we went home. Since we were the only ones in our van on the way over we thought it would be easy to get back to the hotel a little early, even though the show really hadn’t ended.
That was where the problem began. Of course, when you are working in a foreign land and having to use an interpreter whose command of English is somewhat limited, you do expect some problems. We asked to leave, explaining that one of the kids wasn’t feeling well. The driver refused. Someone interpreted and explained that we would have to wait 10 minutes until the show was over or get clearance from the hotel. So we waited 15 minutes and the driver seemed far more interested in chatting with friends than in taking us home. Rick left to make a phone call and I comforted the 8 year old with a stomachache. Rick returned with a Cultural Center employee and she talked to the driver. The second show let out and the driver started the van and let us in, shut the door and walked away, again visiting with the driver. Mother Bear, the one with the child with a tummy ache, emerged and got insistent about being taken home or we would simply take a taxi. The driver angrily complied, we arrived at the hotel, and I walked over to file a complaint. The next day we received apologies and assurances that this has never happened before and that the driver had been reprimanded. I resolved to pass the word that when booking one of these dinners, I strongly encourage you to look at all options. If you have children, verify that the driver will bring you back on request should it be needed. This event definitely impacted my desire to ever see one of these shows again. It simply wasn’t that entertaining and certainly not worth the stress of not being able to get back. If I had known it was going to be that difficult I would’ve simply hopped in a tuk-tuk and been gone.