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Old Oct 1st, 2011, 04:21 PM
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Bangkok for a month: crazy?

Two retired pals considering Thailand for 5-6 week winter trip (last year's was  to India, with help from this forum - if interested, see trip report under my name). Rather than moving around for the whole trip, was thinking about renting a place for a month to get a feel for one city while also using it as a base for short side trips in both N and S Thailand and, possibly, to either Vientiane/LP or Pnomh Penh. First thought was Chiang Mai but now wondering whether BKK might in fact be a better base given its location and good access to air/train connections. Question is this: is it crazy to think of Bangkok as a place comfortably to hang around for a while, explore different neighborhoods, experience "local" life, etc., or is it just too intense & harsh?  We are ex-Manhattanites so not intimidated by big cities per se, but recognize that some are easier in which to live, even for a short time, than others.  Thanks for any perspectives.
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Old Oct 1st, 2011, 05:05 PM
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i dont think you are crazy. We had it as a base for our 10 week trip to SE Asia. We are not 'City folk" but it was great to be back and forth to. We stayed in different areas so it kind of felt like a different place each time.
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Old Oct 1st, 2011, 05:12 PM
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Heavens! I could spend months and months in Bangkok and never get bored or overwhelmed. On the other hand, I tend to feel bored in Chiang Mai after a couple of days. There are quite a number of people on this board who go to Bangkok for a month or months at at time and stay in a serviced apartment.

One piece of advice - learn to use the skytrain and the water taxis - both great public transportation.
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Old Oct 1st, 2011, 07:05 PM
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DS spends up to six weeks at a time in BKK, with maybe a side trip to Samui or Chiang Mai. I spend nearly 3 weeks at a time in BKK. No, you're not crazy at all!!!

If you can find a serviced apartment that offers a monthly rate, you can just pay for that month and then leave your belongings in the apartment while you fly away for a few days to other places.

I (we) keep my room at Adelphi Suites on Sukhumvit soi 8, and then go away for a few days for New Years Eve festivities. I have never had a problem leaving things there. I make sure I tell the staff that I will be gone for a couple of nights, and they are very good about leaving the apartment alone.

Now, if you want to experience the various neighborhoods in BKK, you might want to try a couple of different hotel locations, and make your side trips in between the moves in BKK.

I agree about learning how to use the skytrain. My apartment hotel is about 2 minutes walk (or less) from Nana station. I depend on the skytrain almost everyday when in BKK. The subway is also a good way to avoid traffic on the busy city streets. I'm not located on the river, so the water taxis do not need my expertise at all. But if I were staying by the river, yes I would certainly use them.

Trip #25 to BKK is coming up in just a couple of weeks for me. I'll be in my same apartment hotel for two weeks, but will perhaps leave for about 3 days to go to Penang. We shall see how that works out.

Carol
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Old Oct 1st, 2011, 07:35 PM
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it is not crazy at all... 5-6 weeks would fly by...

serviced apartments are a very easy way to do it...just like a hotel but more room without all the extra costs...

carol has mentioned the place she stays, but there are tons more as well.... with a 5-6 week rental you could save some $$ too...

i like marriott mayfair on langsuan---a fab street well located...good restaurants and a large grocery store are right there as well... great pool too

the chatrium riverside suites on the river are very nice as well.. i loved my stay there and being right on the river was fantastic... fab pool overlooking the river with a nice bar..

emporium suites on sukhumvit at soi 24 are fab with a mall attached and the skytrain a direct walk out...

ascott has places all over town as does centre point...

many of the sois off of sukhumvit are lined with these apartments...
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Old Oct 1st, 2011, 10:54 PM
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I plan to live there part of the year. When I'm there in Dec/Jan, I get a serviced apartment in Emporium Suites and don't want to leave. Every time I'm there, the maid and I go through a sad time when it's time for me to pack up and leave. I used to go twice a year.

In winter, I stay there for three weeks before flying home and back to work. I wish I had a month straight, to be in Bangkok, at this point in my life. Happy Travels!
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Old Oct 2nd, 2011, 01:01 AM
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We spent all of July in Bangkok - we rented a private apartment this time and it was good although I still really like serviced apartments normally and would probably prefer them for a short stay.

We chose a different part of town to usual on the far side of the river and got to know a quite different area which was great. The apartment was lovely, the building and pools great but no restaurant on site (this was an apartment building for full time residents except it was fairly empty in July as many owners still only use it part of the year)- not a problem as we could just go out and the kitchen etc was brilliant if we wanted to cook.

There are a good few such apartments available for rent now and usually better priced than serviced apartment hotels but you do get a little less like no breakfasts and not everyday maid service unless you organize it.
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Old Oct 2nd, 2011, 05:47 AM
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>>>Bangkok for a month: crazy?<<<

(Oh no, a rather sane, joyous and life-affirming move, 'imho'.)


Now, warm greetings brk. I can't personally speak for the merits of spending an entire month in BKK (as my current monthly business trips to Bangkok are 2-3 days in duration), but can vouch for the positive effects the city has had on a cherished and comfortably retired Scottish uncle.

A few years back, he rather adroitly freed himself from the clutches of his rather shrewish (and former) Scottish wife. Now, he owns a place in BKK and is savouring the delights of Thai culture and yes, Thai women. One happy uncle. (He does visit other SE Asian destinations, including occasional weekends at our home in Singapore.) I'm scheduled to be back in Bangkok for meetings later this week, so perhaps will see him (and his latest companion).

Should you spend a month in the City of Angels, savour your tender Thai times.

macintosh (robert)


... Singapore Girl, You're a Great Way to Fly ...
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Old Oct 2nd, 2011, 06:53 AM
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mary---tell us more about the place you stayed and about the area around it...

name, price, etc...
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Old Oct 3rd, 2011, 01:14 AM
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It was a 2 bed apartment in the Watermark building which is just slightly downriver across from Chatrium. Kind of half way between the Pen and Marriot. The Watermark is a condo development with two tall towers right on the river. They are all privately owned and the one we rented was on the 38th floor of the front tower. The owners had purchased a larger apartment in the same condo and were either going to sell this one or rent it out. They advertised it through the vacation rentals on Tripadvisor.

http://www.tripadvisor.com/VacationR...o-Bangkok.html

It had only just come onto the market then but has now become fairly popular and seems to be fairly well booked for the immediate future. We were given an amazingly good price as we had a long stay - I won't repeat it here as they have understandably put the price up a bit but still good value. It had a generous open plan living area - lounge/dining/kitchen, a large main bedroom with bathroom (nice big jacuzzi)and great dressing room and second bedroom set up with 2 single beds and a bath with shower only. Nice balcony looking upriver and an outside but undercover service area off the kitchen with washing machine. Fitted out with teak cupboards throughout and nice linen mostly from Jim Thompson. The kitchen was well equipped.

The condo grounds had a club house gym, several lovely pools that were hardly used and helpful staff. The owner looked after the bookings very well and was their to meet us. She was very helpful but far from intrusive. Maid service is included once a week or more often if you want it. We opted for 2 times a week but then found that we just didn't need it and she came once a week to clean. Its a very easy place to keep clean anyway.

Small drawbacks - you needed to go to Robinsons in Bangkak really to do any major sort of food shopping as the local 7/11's don't have a lot but thats not too bad and you just catch the condo boat up. There aren't a real lot of restaurants close by. There are a few and lots of street food but again its not hard to go off elsewhere. We found our way down to the Big C downriver to a place called the Wave where our friend from the Pen has moved (along with lots of other Pen staff) - great food. Also walked down to the Marriot a couple of times when we didn't want to go too far.

Currently the condo boat unfortunately only goes once per hour except in peak times which was a drawback - after about 6 it stops but the Ramada boat calls which was quite good as that goes every half hour. We found that if we were on the skytrain and it looked like we would not make the boat we'd just stay on to the stop over the river and catch a cab down the road (around 40bt) All that may change as the boat is currently hardly used but as more people move full time into the apartments there may be more demand.

We did find a wonderful massage place a short walk away - very cheap 250bt for 2 hours and Dan says its probably the best he has had. You could only book 24 hours in advance and it was always busy - almost exclusively Thai and its really not a touristy area.

They have a minimum 3 night stay as do most of the apartments of this type - and there are quite a lot now on the tripadvisor vacation rents. I probably wouldn't stay there if it was just a few days as the extra time to cross the city can be a bit of a pain when you have little time.

This is not the place to stay if you are in need of staff attention - ie, there aren't a million staff around waiting at your beck and call. However we found we didn't need anything more anyway. If we were unsure we just phoned the owner and sorted out what we needed. There are a couple of staff in the reception area and they would help get taxis, lug cases etc.

We enjoyed it.
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Old Oct 3rd, 2011, 03:52 PM
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i know the buildings, in fact one well known fodorite may have a place there..
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Old Oct 3rd, 2011, 04:01 PM
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I saw an ad for an apartment in this building several months ago on vbro. It looked good.
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Old Oct 3rd, 2011, 04:33 PM
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Not the same bldg, Bob. Our fodorite friend is closer to the bridge than is the Watermark complex.

It does look really nice!
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Old Oct 3rd, 2011, 05:52 PM
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I understand there are a few apartments that will be vacation rentals in the building although its obviously not the policy of the place. Once I'd booked I spoke to my ex Pen friend to tell him where to find us and he said another of his colleagues was just finishing the deco on a place at the Watermark and could rent it out if I was interested.

The buildings have a "Mohawk" skyline on them (2 buildings).
Unfortunately Carol missed seeing it while she was in Bkk at the same time as us as I managed to get sick!!!

There are a lot of apartments in the "River" building on tripadvisor too.
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Old Oct 15th, 2011, 02:54 PM
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Many thanks to all.  Based in part on these responses, we are now considering flying into Bangkok in late January, spending at least a week  in the Adelphi Suites or someplace comparable, and then moving on for a modest SEA journey over the next 5 weeks.  

We are thinking about spending less time in Thailand (since have been previously to BKK and surroundings, and also Chiang Mai) and instead trying to hit just three other interesting cities for a week or so each -  (1) Phnom Penh (2) Hanoi and (3) Vientiane.  Our goal is to not to see every sight, but to try to get a leisurely "feel" for each of these cities as well as selectively to explore locally/regionally. .  Ideally, we would be able to do do this with as much flexibility as possible to adjust itinerary and find hotels as we go.  Not traveling backpacker level by any means, but not requiring 5-star luxury either. Questions:

-  Does this sound reasonable as a general trip concept?
-  If so, what would be a logical flow?  Fly from place to place in one big swing, or would Cambodia be better as a separate round trip from Bangkok, then do second separate trip out of BKK to Hanoi and then from there to Laos?  
- If time permits, instead of returning from Vientiane directly back to Bangkok, would an option be to go overland to Luang Prabang and then to Chiang Mai?
-  Sorry if a dumb question, but I can't seem to figure out if we can expect to find relatively reasonable last-minute airfares on, say, Air Asia, if we are willing to be flexible by a few days.   Or do I really need to nail down flights well in advance?  Would also be prepared to travel - by bus, train, or car & driver - where practical given distances. 

Thank you for your continued insights as I try to get a handle on this trip which, as you can tell, is still in a preliminary planning stage.
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Old Oct 15th, 2011, 03:54 PM
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Yes, this is a reasonable plan. have you been to Siem Reap? If not, consider at least a few days at the Angkor temples.

You certainly could get a taxi or bus from Vientiane to Luang Prabang. From there, you can take a boat upriver to Thailand, and get a taxi or bus from there to Chiang Mai.

Air Asia, as a budget airline, has the cheapest fares the farther out you buy. Buying a fews days ahead of time will be more expensive, perhaps as expensive as full-service airlines. Take a look and see which legs you can use Air Asia and which you'll need another airline. You shouldn't have trouble getting seats in late January.

It sounds like a great trip!
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Old Oct 17th, 2011, 04:15 AM
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Thanks, Kathie, and thanks also for your reply to my original post. Appreciate the Siam Reap suggestion - not generally much for temples, eg Ayutthaya, but understand Angkor is different. Assume we can do easily as side trip from PP. Primary focus of journey is less on pure sightseeing than on wandering about markets, streets, whatever to soak up local "experience" - in that regard, I note your and rhkkmk 's (among others) positive comments about Hanoi as a particularly interesting city and would definitely like to spend some time in and around there.

One more general question on itinerary: should we be looking at BKK-PP-Hanoi-Vientane-BKK (or Chiang Mai) as a single loop, or could it be wise to think of Cambodia as a separate round-trip from BKK, then back to Bangkok to get a separate flight to Hanoi, then go from Hanoi to Vientiane etc. Thinking about ease and availability of flights and flexibility to adjust itinerary as we go. Thanks again.
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Old Oct 17th, 2011, 07:57 AM
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i think you should price out each leg and see which is cheaper.. you will be subject to the exit fee from bkk in your ticket price each time if you return to bkk...

i'm not sure but that a week in V and PP is too long?
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Old Oct 17th, 2011, 09:56 AM
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You can see Phnom Penh in 1.5 days easy. IMHO, really not that much there to see or do. It is a 4-5 hour drive from PP to Angkor Wat / SR.
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Old Oct 19th, 2011, 12:03 AM
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Not crazy at all, I recently stayed in a suite of a hotel for three nights in Bangkok (soi 10 near Asok) and it was very comfortable..

Having said that, wouldn`t you like to relax somewhere with a beach just outside your hotel? How about a walk along that beach after breakfast?

I suppose it depends on how important geographical location is to you, or money and time. But Chiang Mai must only be about 2hours by plan from Phuket where I also stayed.
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