We'd like to spend two days in Badhavargh hoping to see tigers (missed them in Ranthambore 3 years ago) & thought we might combine this with a day in Khajuraho visiting temples - would love to go from Delhi by train rather than miss everything flying - anyone know how practical is the car/bus trip from Khajuraho to Bandhavgarh?? Any reasonable mid-range options in or near the game park - white tiger lodge has mixed reviews.

hi leon: I've been researching a trip around there. I'm not yet up to speed to advise - but these two websites will help you.

www.greengondwana.com
www.extendedstay.in

both have maps and itineraries - AND timetables that might start you off. You have to explore though - and do some homework. Are you ready for some long drives? You don't give enough info for me to advise you more.

And, while I have your attention: let me gently tell you about Google Search. Go there.
Type in the box - weather darjeeling March. Bingo - answer.
Type - driving time Khaj - B.. - bingo, there's an answer.
Type Khajurajo - go to maps.
Bingo - there's a road map.

Get it? Use it.
Then go to travel agent sites. Look at their itineraries. Steal them.

Go look at the Indian railways site.
Search. Delhi to...

How long is your trip? From where to where? I can see you're all gung-ho for trains - cool by me, but you're gonna have to think about flights somewhere too or you'll be, as we say in Australia, rooted.

travel in India is tough, as I guess you know. Putting your posts together you're heading Delhi, Ranthambore, Khajuraho, Varanasi, Darjeeling, Gangtok - ALL overland.
Phew.

We went from Khajuraho to Bandhavgarh. It's about a 4-5 hour car ride. For details see:

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=35111329

Make sure to click on the safari part as well.

And i haven't mentioned Goa yet! Don't worry, I'm like a kid in a sweet shop with all these fantastic possibilities, but with only 3 weeks to play, I'm very aware we'll have some hard choices & save much of India for another time. I'm just checking options now although I know they're wide spread; yes am aware of the marvels of google but am more interested in the travel experience of dudes like you, perennial voyager.

Thanks for the tips though. We start in Delhi, next day train to Amritsar for temple & border show (1 night), Delhi, then I did want to see tigers in Bandhvgargh for a couple of days (don't want to go to Ranthambore again), thought Khajuraho might be a natural stop on the way (fligh might be more realistic), & then get to Darjeeling/Sikkim for 5 days or so (via Varanasi as the train goes that way), do some walking & gazing at mountains, then (seriously) fly to Mumbai for onward train to Goa for chill out on a quieter beach for 5 days, train back to Mumbai for flight home. However deep down I know this is going to have to be scaled down, & I guess the chilling in Darjeeling will be too literal, so maybe that'll wait for another year.

And another thing...that Indian Rail site is tricky, or is it just me? Putting in your destination doesn't seem to do it.

Whaddya think?

Most people associate Khajuraho with the fabulously erotic temples, they are amazing and they must be seen to be believed.
AND you should not miss the old village of Khajuraho. It is a giant leap back in time. When I was there in 2000 the caste system in the village was, unfortunately, alive and well and as you approach the village the outcasts live on the outskirts of town with the worst housing and in the center of the village are the houses of the Brahmins.
School kids gave us a tour of the school and the villagers were very friendly and welcoming.

Three weeks. You have three weeks.

I'm wasting my time.

You're very frustrating leon. Well, I've had my coffee and sedation now so I'll deal with you [only 'cos you flattered me] and I quite like your style.

Here's what I would do. Three weeks - you have three weeks/. Do you want to spent ONE of those three weeks waiting for, sitting on, trying to sleep in TRAINS? One third of your travel time? Are you a train freak?

I'll assume that 'No' is your answer.

www.flykingfisher.com

I'll put my 'really stupid but keen' traveler hat on. lol. I've worn it up till now. See if it fits you...
One option:
Delhi.
2 Nights DELHI [RECOVERY]
Fly DEL to Varanasi
3 days Varanasi.
stay Rashmi Guest House.
Fly Varanasi to Khajuraho
2 days Khajuraho
Drive Khaj - Ranthambore
3 days Ranthambore

Now you're really in the middle of nowhere. You gotta backtrack and choose - Darjeeling or not. You're concerned about March weather in Darjeeling. Average daily temp is 29F. That's not exactly cold.

So tell me. Darjeeling yes? No?
You're clearly stupid enough to say 'yes'. lol. I can get you there.

Now look on a map, lol, and find Darjeeling. Then go find Goa. Hmmm -that looks like a long way to me... trains? Fi-i-i-ne. Set aside three days and then another couple to get over the trip. Mmmm - sounds like a smart way to travel.....

And tell me just what it is about these trains that gets you off? I think Indian trains and railway stations are very fabulous indeed, but as an experience of people, not scenery.

I'm wondering just what you think you'll see of India bumping around in a series of over-night journeys...

Why don't you go on this for a week?
http://www.theluxurytrains.com/india...olden-chariot/
That's how this perennial voyager solved my train needs. In luxury. heh.
Now that's how to do Indian railways. lol.

I'll wait for your thoughts then I'll sort you out. But you know and I know, India's too big and fabulous. Gotta make choices. Best to make them geographically. Either Delhi/VNS/Khaj/VNS/train to Bagdogra/Darjeeling/Sikkim/Bagdogra/Delhi.

Or go South.

NOT South, North, East and West all together. C'mon - work with me here....

And make sure you read all of the above with a smile. I'm not sneering. It's how Doggy talks. We're blunt, we Australians. But we do it with love.

He shook his head, sighed. Where does this mutt get off - "stupid"?? Where did he actually say he wanted to go the whole way by train (lol - what's that about? from the sound of the cute kid's train suggestion, 'lap of luxury'). Guy's been travelling so long he's got tetchy, although previously there'd been an admission the plan was verrry vague- hell, can't that colonial boy see that's my modus op - throw out (up) ideas, scramble them round, rethink, then start again. That's what this forum is for - isn't it? That patronising swipe made him think if they met in downtown Gangtok he'd either punch the dawg or buy him a beer - cover the bases, probably both.

Doggone it, I know the whole scheme so far sounds ludicrous, but trust me, with our precious small time allocation we need to squeeze max. experiences, & we will do strategic flights wherever. You nailed the issue of trains as being great for people meeting & a fleeting insight into Indian life, but not for days on end.

Just because I remember fantastic 3/4-day steam train journeys as a boy from Lusaka to the Eastern Cape via Victoria Falls, sleeping at night in crisp cotton sheets in the top bunk whilst the train rocked & mournful whistle blew over the veld, don't make me a romantic 58 year old fool. OK so it does, but I know from 2 recent Asian train trips it's not like that any more.

I do appreciate your ideas so far, & am really struck by the helicopter suggestion to Gangtok.Green Gondawa also looks interesting. In the ravings so far, just substitute 'Bandhvgargh' for 'Ranthambore'. Marija by the way, I enjoyed your reports of the game park - although I'd dearly love to see tigers & leopards in natural habitat, it does sound a bit crowded & chaotic. Hey but that's India, & if that's where there's any tigers left so be it.

I'm going to think through the Darjeeling end of things (I have a sigificant other who also has definite ideas of where to go - Dogday now shakes his head, moaning, sweet jesus, two of them!) & when we're more firmed up as it were, we'll launch more crazy questions to you, and anyone else who can bear it.

Seriously, thanks so far.

Yup, shaking his head - lordy - now there are TWO of them. Lol lol lol. I knew I liked you. Remember, we Australians only abuse those we like. I recognised a fellow stumble-bum.

I get the feeling your significant other has a tea field in her sights... well, fella, you may as well just abandon ship now and pass it over to the missus... lol.

Just to piss you off, here's the website of the MOST expensive place I know up there. Show this to your wife at your peril.

www.glenburnteaestate.com

If you're a smart cookie and read their website, you'll see they can organise Sikkim for you, all tours and you have your own driver all the time.

and this:
www.windamerehotel.com

If you dive in to my most recent and fabulous report 'Dogster: Sweet and Sour in Sikkim' you'll find my description of the helicopter. It's in the second story. It is THE CLUE to Sikkim, otherwise it's epic drives.

I look forward to our correspondence, my friend. Good luck with the wife. heh.

leonf: Just saw this thread. If you have only 3 weeks and you want to visit all the places you mention (and dogster lists), it does not matter whether you fly, take the train or drive...you are not going to make it and forget about enjoying (assuming thats your intention). It seems you have already been to India once (Ranthambore) so you must be familiar with the distances, its almost insane to try and hit all those places.

I would suggest staying within one region of India. Delhi, Amritsar, Varanasi are all in north. Khajurao is central and Goa you are a bit south. You could probably pull off Delhi - Amritsar - khajurao- Goa (via mumbai??) either by air or via train. and even then it will be quite a bit but at least you are not traveling from one corner of the country Amritsar to another (darjeeling). Goa is beautiful and spending anything less than 4-5 days will be a crime.