crellston

Just doing a bit of research in preparation for a possible trip to Cambodia later in the year and came across an article in Conde Naste re a new project by the Global Heritage Fund at Banteay Chhmar, about 3 hours from Siem Reap. Apparently, these are un-restored Khmer ruins similar to those at Angkor which the GHF are intending to sympathetically restore the sites avoiding some of the worst mistakes made at SR and leaving a lot of it in its raw state but making it safe. They are involving the local communities by engaging them in the restoration projects and training them in hospitality and setting up B&B type accommodation businesses channelling the money to the local community rather than flooding the place with 5* hotels (all sounds very good but whether it is sustainable remains to be seen!).

Seems like a quieter alternative to SR anybody been there or know anything about it?

Couldn't find a link to teh Conde Naste article but here is one for the GHF:

http://globalheritagefund.org/index....hhmar_cambodia

Kathie

I've also read about this project (though I can't remember where). It will be interesting to see whether they can make this good idea work.

There are unrestored Khmer temples all over Cambodia, Thailand and Laos. After years of hunting for the book, this year we were finally able to locate a long out-of-print book on Khmer temples in Thailand and Laos. For one of our future trips, we plan to develop an itinerary to visit a number of these temples, taking us through rural, less visited areas of both countries.

Elizabeth_S

I think this is the CN article

http://www.concierge.com/cntraveler/articles/502680

Mango7

What mistakes were made at SR?

gearsau

Elizabeth.

Nice article.. I think the article covers the mistakes at Angkor. With popularity, comes people, and people want different things. $500 to $1,000 a night hotels for some people, and $5 for others.

Ta Prohm is a joke in a way.. Boardwalks everywhere to protect the place, ropes to stop people climbing over the temples and of course, having to battle the sellers at the entrance to Ta Prohm. I think Ta Prohm is the worst place to visit, in certain aspects. I was there in July and August, and when I was going around with my Tuk Tuk driver, I was amazed at the number of coaches pulling up on the western side. Pandemonium! The sellers at Ta Prohm seemed to be the most aggressive as well. I do try to support them, but, buy from one, and 15 arrive. I thought that I was supporting all of Cambodia for a while.

andyhad

Talking to the guys involved a couple of months ago, total visitor numbers for Banteay Chhmar last year were below 1000! It's a great place -

http://www.andybrouwer.co.uk/bchh.html

Similar elements to many of the big places in the main park.

Many of the temples are a scrum, but having a good guide, used to dodging the coach parties can help a LOT:

http://www.aboutasiatravel.com/cambo...out-crowds.htm

I prefer Beng Mealea to Ta Prohm. If you want temples to yourself, then an alternative to Banteay Chhmar is to stay overnight out at Koh Ker, and pop into Beng Mealea on the way back. I think www.peaceofangkor.com do overnight trips out there.

dgunbug

I don't think this topic should be labeled "alternatives to Angkor Wat", but rather additional choices. The sites are too spectacular to miss and anyone making the trip to Cambodia should include them in their tour. The additional ruins sound wonderful to include as well!

Kathie

It was long enough ago when visited Ta Prohm that it wasn't even very crowded. Boardwalks? ropes? so sad.

Also, I think all of the drivers know the bus tour schedules. Any of them can help you dodge the huge crowds.

shelleyk

The boardwalks must be relatively new. We were there about 3 or 4 years ago and there were no boardwalks and no crowds. There were a few vendors in the parking lot, but not very aggressive ones. Too bad about the change for the worse. It's a function of the site's popularity as much as a function of overdevelopment of SR.

gearsau

Katie and Shelleyk,
I was in Siem Reap for 3 days in March, 2010, and went back in July for 7 days and then in August for 4 days. Obviously, I like the place.

I visited Ta Prohm once in July and once in August as I wanted to re-shoot a few areas there. I entered the site from the eastern side, and as soon as we pulled up, the sellers were onto me like hawks. As I mentioned, I always try to support a couple, but, I can only buy so many post cards, T shirts, etc. At some places, I have actually given the cards back to the sellers so they can make some extra $$

I think that Ta Som is a much nicer temple to photograph, and its not over run by people. I also went to Bean Mealea... Interesting temple as well. A long trip by tuk tuk, but, interesing

The buses actually stop on the western entrance to Ta Prohm. I did not enter the temple this way, but, I noticed so many buses pulling in and out of there. Seriously, it was like a super market car park.
If you look at photos taken of Ta Prohm in the 1990's and perhaps early 2000's, you should frame them, because its impossible to take that sort of photo now

A link to some recent photos:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...0&l=c9617d96c0

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...0&l=0cf0cba939

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...0&l=db7aa8d2b7

All the best ...... Peter

Kathie

Thanks, nice photos!