A scant day in Bombay
Jul 11th, 2007 | 06:29 PM
#2
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 7,689
Likes: 0
What day are you there? Date, day, monoth would all be helpful. There may be a festival, and a weekday versus weekend would change my reccos a bit (traffic is awuful, awuful not to be believed, but weekends are better). Where are you staying? Does OAT have any sightseeing planned for you or are you entirely on your on? Do you have any particular interests, i.e. is history versus architecture more interesting to you?
Where else will you have been in India?
Where else will you have been in India?
Jul 13th, 2007 | 08:59 AM
#3
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
It really depends on what you like to do. There are not that many sights in my opinion. Just remember that whatever you do transport can take forever in the city. An interesting thing to do is arrange a tour of the dhavari slum (asias largest) with about 6 million people The indian governemnt has been systematically destroying it and "plans" to replace it with public housing.
Jul 13th, 2007 | 09:00 AM
#4
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
I am also in Mumbai for one day only which is Wed 12 March, 2008. We are arriving by ship at 7.00am and depart on the same evening at 6.00pm. I would like to know the details of a tour company who would provide an air-con car with a driver for the day to meet us off the ship, take us around the places of interest (staying with us where possible) and then drive us back to the ship by 5.00pm latest. Could someone over there now please find the details of small reputable tour companies who offer this service with their email address, phone number, address etc and maybe any costs. I would appreciate this so much. Perhaps you could post any details on to this site or send direct to my email address which is [email protected] Thank you very much and hope you all are having a lovely holiday
Jul 14th, 2007 | 05:10 PM
#5
Original Poster
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 831
Likes: 0
Our itinerary covers Delhi, Jaipur, Ranthambhore, Agra, Khajurab,Varanasi, the Naguar fair, and then Kerale and Cochin. Whew!
We fly into Mumbai on the a.m. of our last day and leave for home early the next morning. Don't know the hotel as yet.
I think the day is March 4th - a Tuesday.
OAT has nothing scheduled.
Do you think we'd be able to get to the Elephante Caves and then perhaps a short(!)city tour or is that too ambitious?
I think a tour guide is a good idea.
We fly into Mumbai on the a.m. of our last day and leave for home early the next morning. Don't know the hotel as yet.
I think the day is March 4th - a Tuesday.
OAT has nothing scheduled.
Do you think we'd be able to get to the Elephante Caves and then perhaps a short(!)city tour or is that too ambitious?
I think a tour guide is a good idea.
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Jul 15th, 2007 | 01:21 PM
#8
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 711
Likes: 0
The trip out to Elephanta caves takes about an hour out and an hour back by boat. When you get to the island, you need to walk quite a way (20 minutes) to get the the bottom of the stairs to walk up to the caves. You then have a lot of stairs. I was there in 95 degree heat on New Years day with every available Indian in India, so the stairs were endless for me and took a long time with shoulder to shoulder humanity. So, bottom line, Elephanta caves were not my highlight of India, and I loved India. Frankly, if I were only in Mumbai for one day I would skip it.
There aren't that many sites to see in Mumbai. What I would do is get a guide and do a tour of the neighborhoods and the city from the car--stopping in a couple places. It is really interesting to see the disparity with the highest real estate prices in the world versus the tents on the streets on the same blocks. Malabar Hill is very posh and is now considered the most expensive in the world.
The buildings of "the Raj" (the colonial period) are just beautiful, albeit crumbling. Just driving around and seeing them is fun. The Victoria Terminus train station should not be missed, and I found the Mani Bhavan (the home where Ghandi stayed in Mumbai) really interesting--although it is not a first tier site and probably not worth it if you only have one day.
Do not miss the Dhobi Ghats--the outdoor municipal laundry. You will get such great pictures. I loved seeing the Ghats!
Finally, if you aren't staying at the Taj Mahal hotel, then you need to stop by for lunch or a drink. You feel like you've stepped back 100 years. Before you go in, take the requisite pictures in front of the Gateway of India.
When inside the Taj, take the elevator or grand stairway and go up to see the floors in the old wing--the architecture is really interesting---it will only take you five minutes after lunch. Seriously, go upstairs. No one will stop you. It's worth it--really cool. Also, the Taj is the best place to watch for the Indian glitterati. From expensive jewelry to snug jeans and T-shirts, You will know you aren't in Rajasthan any more
There aren't that many sites to see in Mumbai. What I would do is get a guide and do a tour of the neighborhoods and the city from the car--stopping in a couple places. It is really interesting to see the disparity with the highest real estate prices in the world versus the tents on the streets on the same blocks. Malabar Hill is very posh and is now considered the most expensive in the world.
The buildings of "the Raj" (the colonial period) are just beautiful, albeit crumbling. Just driving around and seeing them is fun. The Victoria Terminus train station should not be missed, and I found the Mani Bhavan (the home where Ghandi stayed in Mumbai) really interesting--although it is not a first tier site and probably not worth it if you only have one day.
Do not miss the Dhobi Ghats--the outdoor municipal laundry. You will get such great pictures. I loved seeing the Ghats!
Finally, if you aren't staying at the Taj Mahal hotel, then you need to stop by for lunch or a drink. You feel like you've stepped back 100 years. Before you go in, take the requisite pictures in front of the Gateway of India.
When inside the Taj, take the elevator or grand stairway and go up to see the floors in the old wing--the architecture is really interesting---it will only take you five minutes after lunch. Seriously, go upstairs. No one will stop you. It's worth it--really cool. Also, the Taj is the best place to watch for the Indian glitterati. From expensive jewelry to snug jeans and T-shirts, You will know you aren't in Rajasthan any more
Jul 15th, 2007 | 01:39 PM
#9
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 27,709
Likes: 1
I too was underwhelmed by the Elephanta caves, even though I didn't have to cope with 95 degree heat. True, I'd just seen the Ajanta and Ellora caves, which are spectacular, but I think I would have been underwhelmed anyway. On the other hand, I enjoyed the boat ride.
Mumbai is said to be a great place for street food and snacks, maybe eating would be a better use of your time there.
Mumbai is said to be a great place for street food and snacks, maybe eating would be a better use of your time there.
Jul 15th, 2007 | 11:08 PM
#10
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 7,689
Likes: 0
Mumbai is a huge city (20 million people, more than the population of Australia and growing), and traffic is bloody awful to be frank. There is not a whole lot for the sightseer, and you need to direct your time well, esp as your trips are on a weekday. If you have particular interests, that would help focus the tour. For both of you, I would recommend getting one or more guidebooks, with maps, and doing some reading. While this site is very helpful, you really need to understand what the city has to offer and what YOU are interested in. This site is more about narrowing choices down, IMO, but unless you know what those choices are, you can’t really make an intelligent decision. For example, if you are really interested in art, you might want to spend the whole day in the Prince of Wales Museum and some art galleries in town.
Both of your days in Mumbai will be week days, which will mean that you are competing with “regular” weekday traffic which can be of epic proportions. As an example, to go from the Taj Mahal Hotel basically at the top of Marine Drive, down to the Oberoi Hotel at the bottom, which is maybe 3-4 miles, has at times taken me 1.5 hours in traffic. There is no public transportation to speak of (no subway and there is a commuter rail but it essentially brings commuters in, it is not for getting around the city). To get out to the Juhu Beach area (where the Bollywood films are made) from the Gateway of India easily is 2-3 hours by car in weekday traffic, but it is only about 12-14 miles. That is why, IMO, with only one day it is a good idea to stick to the area around the Gateway of India and/or your hotel. (NGail, do you know your hotel at this point? If you are up in Juhu, a very nice area, my reccos would be rather different as I would recco staying in that area.)
March will be quite warm to hot, but no rain, which is a big plus. There are no public holidays and no major religious festivals that I am aware of, but there are always local religious festivals going on, you might ask at the hotel or on the ship if there is anything of interest going on. Holi, the spring festival and a major fun holiday, is celebrated in March 22 in 2008, but your dates are probably too early to have any events in the lead-up to that.
NGail, personally, I would not bother to make the trek out to the caves. You will have seen a lot already in India, and perhaps you could concentrate on seeing the city at a more relaxed pace than taking a longish day trek out to the caves. It’s over an hour each way by ferry, and what with time at the caves, etc. you are pretty much looking at more than half the day gone on this trip. I agree with the above poster that they really don’t compare to other caves in India (which I don’t think are on you itinerary). I really would NOT try to do both the caves AND a city tour in one day (and I don’t actually think this will be physically possible for you to do), pick one or the other.
Ojunet, seeing Mumbai is a few hours on a cruise may be a bit tight, IMO. The good news is that Ballard Pier, where I believe you are docking, is not far at all from some interesting areas, and is quite near the Gateway of India, Taj Mahal hotel (mentioned above as a sightseeing destination itself, it also has some good restaurants), the Prince of Wales Museum, and some good restaurants and shopping. As mentioned above, I personally don’t know that I would try to “see” much by car, I might try to stick to the areas around the Ballard Pier and Marine Drive areas. For example, the Dhobi Ghat (clothes washing area) mentioned above is outside of this area, and on a weekday could take some time to get to. If you really want to see this, I would head there first and then see what time it is by the time you get back and tailor the rest of your itinerary based on that.
I don’t know any guided tour services, you might try a guidebook or try going through a hotel or the cruise line may offer a service. I do have a driver service for Mumbai, see below, but this does not include a guide.
All that being said, some reccos are below:
1. My Lonely Planet guide reccos a walking tour group called Heritage Walks, this was started by two women architects. The area around the Gateway of India, the University and the main train station has a lot of architecturally-interesting buildings and would be a good place to do a walk, there are several good restaurants and the Taj Mahal hotel in this neighborhood as well; and using this group may be a good way to do it. If their main page is anything to go by, the walks look really interesting, they go around various historic and architecturally significant areas of the city. Other then the main page, their website is rather useless, so you might send them an e-mail. If you take a walk and like them, please post about it, as this is something I would like to do myself on my next visit. If I get a chance to do this on my next, I will post as well. Contact Brinda Gaitonde or Abha Bahl [email protected]) Website is http://www.bombayheritagewalks.com/
2. If you want to do a tour by car, you can arrange a car and driver and a tour guide through whatever hotel OAT is putting you up at. Ojunet, the cruise line may have suggested guides and drivers as well. If you just want a car and driver for the day, my company uses the following, you might contact them for rates (will be cheaper than a hotel):
Tony
Tel: 91-22-2216-6193 or 91-22-5621-1427
Mobile: 91-98-6904-6103
3. The Prince of Wales Museum is very good and the building itself is worth a gander from the outside. Very good collections, including Mughal miniatures, they have an excellent audio guide, so no tour guide is necessary. A quite escape from the noisy city. This is quite close to the Gateway of India.
4. Jain Temple/Malabar Hill - while Malabar Hill isn’t much IMO (and the “hanging gardens” even less so, really give them a miss), the Jain temple is very interesting and worth the trip. Read up on the religion and history of the Jains, who are quite important in Mumbai, and you will appreciate the trip more.
5. Chor Bazar (Thieves Market) - chock a block with just about every item you could want and them some. Worth just wandering even if you don’t want to buy anything. Sort of like the Paris flea market. Bargain hard. Supposedly best on Fridays when the most stalls are open. Not far from Crawford Market, so this could be combined with a visit to the Crawford Market.
6. Shopping
Shrujan
Saga Villa 38
Bhulabhai Desai
Road Opposite Navroze Apartments
400 026
Tel 22-2352-1693
This has wonderful handmade Kutch textiles, it is a cooperative and the profits benefit the women in Kutch, a very depressed region of Gujarat. They have beautiful silk embroidered bedspreads and pillows and some clothing, mobile phone cases and other items. The selection is not huge, but the quality is unbelievable and the prices are very good. Definitely worth a stop. This is not to far from the Marine Drive area, I believe it is in Breach Candy.
Soma
A-2 Amar Chand Mansion
16, Madam Cama Road
Colaba
Tel: 22 2282 6050
Hand-blocked cotton textiles. There are tablecloths as well as adult and children's clothing. A large selection and good prices. This shop is upstairs. This is close to the Taj Mahal hotel.
Ravissant
131 August Kranti Marg
Tel: 22-2368-4934
Really unique silver items and some clothing, they have a large shop in Mumbai. They have outlets in other cities in India, and often have a small shop in hotels (i.e. the Oberoi).
Good Earth
Raghuvanshi Mansion
Raghuvanshi Mills Compound
11-12 Senapti Bapat mart
Lowe Parel
Tel: 22-2495-1954
http://www.goodearthindia.com
Home and bath accessories on the first floor, furniture and some bedding and curtains on the second. They also have a small wine bar on the second floor that serves snacks. Some very interesting items, their china with the little elephants is very cute; prices on bath items are very good. Their furniture is probably not interesting to you as you have to ship it home, but they have some great colonial-type pieces. Upstairs they have a small department with bed spreads and tissue-paper-thin silk curtains. The wine bar is worth a stop as well. This is about a five minute drive from the Shrujan shop and could be done together. If you are gong to Delhi, they have two outlets in Delhi, one of which is in the Shantushi Shopping complex which is a good place to shop in Delhi. With only one day in Mumbai, I am not sure I would spend any time in this shop, nice as it is.
7. Restaurants
In Mumbai, any restaurant in the Taj Mahal Palace & Tower Hotel (go to http://www.tajhotels.com), or the Oberoi (go to http://www.oberoihotels.com), or the Hilton next door to the Oberoi. Both have very good Indian and continental restaurants, the Taj has an excellent Japanese/sushi restaurant and an Asian spices restaurant.
Some independent restaurants to try:
Indigo
4 Mandik Road
Colaba Mumbai
Tel 22-6636-8980
e-mail: [email protected]
Very good food, mostly continental with some India mixed in. This restaurant is pretty much consistently rated as one of the best around. Nice atmosphere, try to get a table upstairs on the terrace. Lots of the beautiful people here, esp in the evening. This is behind the Taj Mahal hotel. There are some interesting streets around here to just walk around.
Indigo delicatessen
5 Ground Floor
Pheroze Bldg
Ground Floor
Chatrapati Shivaji Mahrishi Ma
Apollo Bunder
Tel: 22- 6655-1010
This is their more casual delicatessen, also very good food. It bills itself as a New York deli and kind of fulfills that (also peanut butter and jelly sandwiches on the menu…) In some ways I like it better, it is a bit more lively and has less attitude. But the main restaurant has sort of the “beautiful people” of Mumbai lunching so you can observe them in their natural habitat…This restaurant is also near the Taj Mahal hotel and the Gateway of India.
Mahesh Lunch Home
8D Cowasji Patel St
off Pherozeshah Mehta Rd., Fort, Mumbai 400 001, Colaba
022/2287-0938, 022/2202-3965
Indian seafood, supposedly the best in the city. Very casual, not expensive. They have an outlet up in Juhu next to the Marriott if you are staying in that area. Both are great. This outlet in Colaba is in the main tourist core.
Both of your days in Mumbai will be week days, which will mean that you are competing with “regular” weekday traffic which can be of epic proportions. As an example, to go from the Taj Mahal Hotel basically at the top of Marine Drive, down to the Oberoi Hotel at the bottom, which is maybe 3-4 miles, has at times taken me 1.5 hours in traffic. There is no public transportation to speak of (no subway and there is a commuter rail but it essentially brings commuters in, it is not for getting around the city). To get out to the Juhu Beach area (where the Bollywood films are made) from the Gateway of India easily is 2-3 hours by car in weekday traffic, but it is only about 12-14 miles. That is why, IMO, with only one day it is a good idea to stick to the area around the Gateway of India and/or your hotel. (NGail, do you know your hotel at this point? If you are up in Juhu, a very nice area, my reccos would be rather different as I would recco staying in that area.)
March will be quite warm to hot, but no rain, which is a big plus. There are no public holidays and no major religious festivals that I am aware of, but there are always local religious festivals going on, you might ask at the hotel or on the ship if there is anything of interest going on. Holi, the spring festival and a major fun holiday, is celebrated in March 22 in 2008, but your dates are probably too early to have any events in the lead-up to that.
NGail, personally, I would not bother to make the trek out to the caves. You will have seen a lot already in India, and perhaps you could concentrate on seeing the city at a more relaxed pace than taking a longish day trek out to the caves. It’s over an hour each way by ferry, and what with time at the caves, etc. you are pretty much looking at more than half the day gone on this trip. I agree with the above poster that they really don’t compare to other caves in India (which I don’t think are on you itinerary). I really would NOT try to do both the caves AND a city tour in one day (and I don’t actually think this will be physically possible for you to do), pick one or the other.
Ojunet, seeing Mumbai is a few hours on a cruise may be a bit tight, IMO. The good news is that Ballard Pier, where I believe you are docking, is not far at all from some interesting areas, and is quite near the Gateway of India, Taj Mahal hotel (mentioned above as a sightseeing destination itself, it also has some good restaurants), the Prince of Wales Museum, and some good restaurants and shopping. As mentioned above, I personally don’t know that I would try to “see” much by car, I might try to stick to the areas around the Ballard Pier and Marine Drive areas. For example, the Dhobi Ghat (clothes washing area) mentioned above is outside of this area, and on a weekday could take some time to get to. If you really want to see this, I would head there first and then see what time it is by the time you get back and tailor the rest of your itinerary based on that.
I don’t know any guided tour services, you might try a guidebook or try going through a hotel or the cruise line may offer a service. I do have a driver service for Mumbai, see below, but this does not include a guide.
All that being said, some reccos are below:
1. My Lonely Planet guide reccos a walking tour group called Heritage Walks, this was started by two women architects. The area around the Gateway of India, the University and the main train station has a lot of architecturally-interesting buildings and would be a good place to do a walk, there are several good restaurants and the Taj Mahal hotel in this neighborhood as well; and using this group may be a good way to do it. If their main page is anything to go by, the walks look really interesting, they go around various historic and architecturally significant areas of the city. Other then the main page, their website is rather useless, so you might send them an e-mail. If you take a walk and like them, please post about it, as this is something I would like to do myself on my next visit. If I get a chance to do this on my next, I will post as well. Contact Brinda Gaitonde or Abha Bahl [email protected]) Website is http://www.bombayheritagewalks.com/
2. If you want to do a tour by car, you can arrange a car and driver and a tour guide through whatever hotel OAT is putting you up at. Ojunet, the cruise line may have suggested guides and drivers as well. If you just want a car and driver for the day, my company uses the following, you might contact them for rates (will be cheaper than a hotel):
Tony
Tel: 91-22-2216-6193 or 91-22-5621-1427
Mobile: 91-98-6904-6103
3. The Prince of Wales Museum is very good and the building itself is worth a gander from the outside. Very good collections, including Mughal miniatures, they have an excellent audio guide, so no tour guide is necessary. A quite escape from the noisy city. This is quite close to the Gateway of India.
4. Jain Temple/Malabar Hill - while Malabar Hill isn’t much IMO (and the “hanging gardens” even less so, really give them a miss), the Jain temple is very interesting and worth the trip. Read up on the religion and history of the Jains, who are quite important in Mumbai, and you will appreciate the trip more.
5. Chor Bazar (Thieves Market) - chock a block with just about every item you could want and them some. Worth just wandering even if you don’t want to buy anything. Sort of like the Paris flea market. Bargain hard. Supposedly best on Fridays when the most stalls are open. Not far from Crawford Market, so this could be combined with a visit to the Crawford Market.
6. Shopping
Shrujan
Saga Villa 38
Bhulabhai Desai
Road Opposite Navroze Apartments
400 026
Tel 22-2352-1693
This has wonderful handmade Kutch textiles, it is a cooperative and the profits benefit the women in Kutch, a very depressed region of Gujarat. They have beautiful silk embroidered bedspreads and pillows and some clothing, mobile phone cases and other items. The selection is not huge, but the quality is unbelievable and the prices are very good. Definitely worth a stop. This is not to far from the Marine Drive area, I believe it is in Breach Candy.
Soma
A-2 Amar Chand Mansion
16, Madam Cama Road
Colaba
Tel: 22 2282 6050
Hand-blocked cotton textiles. There are tablecloths as well as adult and children's clothing. A large selection and good prices. This shop is upstairs. This is close to the Taj Mahal hotel.
Ravissant
131 August Kranti Marg
Tel: 22-2368-4934
Really unique silver items and some clothing, they have a large shop in Mumbai. They have outlets in other cities in India, and often have a small shop in hotels (i.e. the Oberoi).
Good Earth
Raghuvanshi Mansion
Raghuvanshi Mills Compound
11-12 Senapti Bapat mart
Lowe Parel
Tel: 22-2495-1954
http://www.goodearthindia.com
Home and bath accessories on the first floor, furniture and some bedding and curtains on the second. They also have a small wine bar on the second floor that serves snacks. Some very interesting items, their china with the little elephants is very cute; prices on bath items are very good. Their furniture is probably not interesting to you as you have to ship it home, but they have some great colonial-type pieces. Upstairs they have a small department with bed spreads and tissue-paper-thin silk curtains. The wine bar is worth a stop as well. This is about a five minute drive from the Shrujan shop and could be done together. If you are gong to Delhi, they have two outlets in Delhi, one of which is in the Shantushi Shopping complex which is a good place to shop in Delhi. With only one day in Mumbai, I am not sure I would spend any time in this shop, nice as it is.
7. Restaurants
In Mumbai, any restaurant in the Taj Mahal Palace & Tower Hotel (go to http://www.tajhotels.com), or the Oberoi (go to http://www.oberoihotels.com), or the Hilton next door to the Oberoi. Both have very good Indian and continental restaurants, the Taj has an excellent Japanese/sushi restaurant and an Asian spices restaurant.
Some independent restaurants to try:
Indigo
4 Mandik Road
Colaba Mumbai
Tel 22-6636-8980
e-mail: [email protected]
Very good food, mostly continental with some India mixed in. This restaurant is pretty much consistently rated as one of the best around. Nice atmosphere, try to get a table upstairs on the terrace. Lots of the beautiful people here, esp in the evening. This is behind the Taj Mahal hotel. There are some interesting streets around here to just walk around.
Indigo delicatessen
5 Ground Floor
Pheroze Bldg
Ground Floor
Chatrapati Shivaji Mahrishi Ma
Apollo Bunder
Tel: 22- 6655-1010
This is their more casual delicatessen, also very good food. It bills itself as a New York deli and kind of fulfills that (also peanut butter and jelly sandwiches on the menu…) In some ways I like it better, it is a bit more lively and has less attitude. But the main restaurant has sort of the “beautiful people” of Mumbai lunching so you can observe them in their natural habitat…This restaurant is also near the Taj Mahal hotel and the Gateway of India.
Mahesh Lunch Home
8D Cowasji Patel St
off Pherozeshah Mehta Rd., Fort, Mumbai 400 001, Colaba
022/2287-0938, 022/2202-3965
Indian seafood, supposedly the best in the city. Very casual, not expensive. They have an outlet up in Juhu next to the Marriott if you are staying in that area. Both are great. This outlet in Colaba is in the main tourist core.
Sep 30th, 2007 | 11:22 AM
#12
Original Poster
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 831
Likes: 0
Am now actually considering flying from Mumbai to Aurangabad to see the Ajanta/Alora Caves. Has anyone done this or know of an outfit for setting it up? How long is the flight? Can you see both caves with only one night stay?
Thanks.
(It would also depend on whether we could get a flight change from OAT- they call it a "breakaway"
Thanks.
(It would also depend on whether we could get a flight change from OAT- they call it a "breakaway"
Sep 30th, 2007 | 12:05 PM
#13
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 27,709
Likes: 1
Ajanta and Ellora are in opposite directions from Aurangabad, and require a half day each. You could fly in the morning of Day 1 and out the afternoon of Day 2, provided you had prearranged your transport. I traveled by train, but don't imagine it's a particularly long flight.
Sep 30th, 2007 | 06:55 PM
#15
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 27,709
Likes: 1
NGail - the schedules are at www.indianrail.gov.in. Looks like the train trip is around 7 hours, and for Mumbai to Aurangabad the times don't work very well. From Aurangabad to Mumbai the best bet is likely the 14:40-20:50, there is a night train, but it gets in very early.
For Ellora I used a car and driver, but not a guide. For Ajanta I took a tour through the state Tourism Development Corporation, which was a coach and a guide, but it's not clear from the website that that's still available. You can do fine with a good guidebook.
Glad you're thinking of making it to the caves!
For Ellora I used a car and driver, but not a guide. For Ajanta I took a tour through the state Tourism Development Corporation, which was a coach and a guide, but it's not clear from the website that that's still available. You can do fine with a good guidebook.
Glad you're thinking of making it to the caves!
