In one of my trips to Japan I stayed at eight different places in twelve days....that was my record. But each location was not that far from the other so the travel times weren't outrageous.

To me if you can't change your planned days in Tokyo and Kyoto, I can't see going up to the Takayama/Kanazawa area and trying to fit in Hakone as well - I think that is too much traveling time.

Maybe cut out the Alps and do what kja advised.....after Hakone go to Hiroshima and stay over at Miyajima...maybe stopping at Okayama and Kurashiki.....or even Nara before your Kyoto hotel....or just more Kansai day trips.

After spending six weeks there, I know they are endless...

I agree what Mara and kja. The outdoor sculpture museum in Hakone was one of my best art ecstasy experiences ever and Mt Fujii (as a good friend said to me about Mt Everest) is the ONE--truly breathtaking. We stayed at the Iwaso ryakan in Miyajima--very expensive but worth it. Hiroshima is upsetting but not depressing; I would not have missed it for anything. (I also would not have seen it first for anything).

Agree, as is so often the case, with Kja and actually with everyone's advice.

I would add another voice that feels Kyoto (and the nearby area) merit more time than Tokyo, but agree too that is so much to see and do in both that you will be unlikely to regret time spent in either.

I don't know what you did in Kyoto last time but it's worth adding days/ nights for Nara (as you have already mentioned), Osaka and Kobe (which we meant to do last time but switched out at last minute as wanted more time in Kyoto).

Here's a report on our Nara ryokan - we definitely got the best room in the house, which was part of it, as was the food and the location and lovely service. http://www.kaveyeats.com/2013/01/kai...o-in-nara.html

We are also glad we did a half day trip to nearby Yamazaki to visit the distillery, though my husband has a particular interest so that may or may not be worthwhile for you. http://www.petedrinks.com/2012/11/wh...hisky-library/

On our first trip, in 2012, we did a night in Koyasan, also at Shojoshin-in and would definitely recommend that.

We also went to Hiroshima (for the morning) and then to Miyajima for the afternoon and overnight. I can recommend Auberge Watanabe, a small family-run ryokan, this is a mid-level rather than highest-end place.

Next time, I also want to visit Uji or other tea producing area.

Takayama is charming and a nice contrast to the two main cities. We spent 2 nights there during the autumn festival and didn't see everything, and would happily go back.

Thank you all for your helpful and thoughtful replies. I agree, I will be choosing between the Alps and Hakone w/something else that makes logistical sense, perhaps Koyasan, or perhaps Hiroshima/ Miyajima.

russ_in_LA: I just read your trip report; it was so detailed and helpful. It also brought back great memories of Kyoto, and Mume. It also highlighted many things that I have yet to see or experience there, but which I am looking forward to on this next trip. Yes, there is never enough time in Kyoto.

Uji is well worth seeing, especially if lovely Byodoin is open again! You can easily visit it on the way between Nara and Kyoto.

I skipped Hakone, even though it sounds wonderful, in part because I traveled solo and in part because it simply didn't fit with my plans for my time in Japan. My question is for those of you who have traveled to Hakone <u><b>solo</u></b>: Did you enjoy it as much as couples seem to enjoy it? Do solo women travelers seem to enjoy it as much as solo men travelers? (None of the women I know outside this board who went there solo say they would recommend it; many -- but not all -- of the men I know outside this board who went there solo say they would recommend it.) I'm curious! And maybe fishskis, who I believe is making this trip solo, might find your answers as interesting as I'm sure I will!

>>a night in a ryokan... Onsen

I recommend Hakone to the OP because it has both of these. It is also very photogenic. Both staying in a ryokan and visiting an onsen are authentic cultural experiences, rich in tradition and ritual, that you can have in an intimate setting with Japanese.

Reading in advance will enhance your experience. Knowing how it is done is critical in an onsen - don't just show up. It is very worthwhile to understand what to expect in a traditional ryokan stay. For example, a ryokan room has certain traditional features. There is a ritual to the dinner and you have a role and obligation.

Addressing the OP's interest relative to Hakone:

>>normally travel to cities, not beaches or or more rural, quiet places (but I am open to this).
Hakone is not city. It will be quiet at night. It will also have fresh air and natural beauty.

>>I like architecture,
You won't find this in Hakone other than, perhaps, a traditional ryokan where you stay - or visit. Some onsen ryokan have hours when their onsen available to the public. The natural beauty, escape from the city, and an onsen experience are reasons for a day trip to Hakone (but I would recommend not doing this on a weekend when Tokyo-jin will be doing the same).

great food,
You can expect this at a ryokan, just don't expect to order from a menu.

photography (I am a serious photographer),
Hakone may be for you. The ichiban iconic photo of Japan (Fujisan) is in Fuji-Hakone Natl Park.

nightlife,
There is none in Hakone. Maybe there is something over in Yumoto town. I stayed in a relatively isolated place in Moto Hakone. I had a full, fun day in the park, including an onsen visit, so I was pretty well spent and had some reading/planning to do.

The only drawback to my otherwise wonderful visit to Miyajima and stay at Momijiso was that 8PM the day was done and I was full of energy. Unlike my experience in Hakone, the lack of nightlife was significant to me.

walking (exploring neighborhoods),
There is walking to be done.

culture and history
I suppose onsen/ryokan are not really experiences in culture (involving intellectual achievement) but are social/societal Japanese experiences. There may be art & antiques and stuff in the ryokan, if that is what you mean by culture. There is a bit of history in Moto Hakone - a Tokaido Road site.

Thank you so much to everyone for the helpful replies.

I was able to rearrange my schedule so I will have six nights in Kyoto (split three and three, which is actually appealing to me; I will be staying at another hotel I have wanted to try for part II of this Kyoto split trip). This will give me more freedom to take a day trip or two to Nara and possibly Hiroshima.

Additionally, I will be going to Hakone for one or two nights. I am currently booked at the Hyatt Regency; is anyone familiar with this property or its location? I would appreciate any other hotel or Ryokan suggestions; my budget is flexible. While I have experienced a Ryokan before, I have not experienced an Onsen. I will be going to Hakone by train from Tokyo early in the morning, so I should have a pretty full day and a half if I choose to stay only one night (I am going to Kyoto from Hakone). Would you recommend two nights over one night? Please keep in mind, that, as I mentioned earlier, particularly when traveling alone, I can get a little restless quickly in quiet places. This is not to say I do not appreciate nature and natural beauty, I do.

Thank you.

We stayed only one night (by great good fortune in the Mitsui guesthouse) and it was not enough. The main reason is that the outdoor sculpture museum IMO is not to be missed--it's amazing, but our having done that meant we did not do the standard look at Hakone by taking trams etc and I am sorry we missed that. However, we arrived in afternoon and had only 1 full day. Check museum schedule.

My hunch is you can't loose at the Hyatt Regency...and perhaps they have a Japanese style room. If you get restless in quiet places, I'd choose the Hyatt where there will be people you can talk to over a ryokan, where your meals will be served in your room and there is limited public space.

What are your hotel choices for Kyoto?

I think Hiroshima is worth the effort...and if you are American, important to witness (I was saddened to learn only one American president, Jimmy Carter, has seen the Hiroshima Peace Memorial. It is sad, moving, but not depressing and the outdoor park brings past and present in alive in a way that is kind of uplifting.

Here is link to photos of autumn color. Some are of the sculpture garden in Hakone

http://picasaweb.google.com/cmstraf/...eat=directlink

>>Would you recommend two nights over one night?<<

I would not. But if you do choose to stay 2 nights then a hotel like the Hyatt would be a good choice as there would be more life there at night. The Hyatt has a spa, dining, bar, and a living room with entertainment. http://hakone.regency.hyatt.com/en/h...ivingRoom.html
On-site onsen: http://hakone.regency.hyatt.com/en/h...otsprings.html

Thank you for the links. The Hakone outdoor museum looks beautiful.

I am still noodling around with various options; I suspect I will be doing so until (and maybe during) my trip.