I arrive in Hargeisa without a visa or a hotel reservation but with a passion to visit another part of the planet that's not your typical tourist destination. Fortunately for me while waiting in line I meet two others that are in the same "visa boat". Within 30 minutes and $60 later we are officially allowed in the country, one mission accomplished.

My second mission finding a hotel is made a little easier now that I have made two new friends who are being picked up by a local driver. Their destination The Ambassador Hotel is a possible option but l am looking for a more local place to stay. My earlier research suggest that The Oriental Hotel maybe the place place to start.

About three checkpoints including a parking lot exit and we are on our way in a beefed up Land Cruiser. As we approach The Ambassador my choice of hotel is confirmed. This is not the place that I want to stay. A car security sweep, multiple arm guards with machine guns and several layers of concrete barriers before we enter the property tells me this place is probably a target hotel. I wait for the others to get checked in then their driver is kind enough to help me continue my search.

HGA Arrival

Simple airport with a reasonably friendly Immigration and Customs staff.

Daylight is fading as we drive the dusty and packed road towards the Oriental Hotel. On a Friday evening, messages from mosques all around the city are echoing through the night air.

Arriving at the Oriental there is a short disappointment as I am told they are fully booked for the night. However, a quick call by the Front Desk clerk to a nearby hotel and my second mission is accomplished.




Birikoo Hotel

For $12 per night I have a relatively clean, safe and comfortable room without concrete barriers and armed guards. With a good Wi-Fi connection I make my plans for tomorrow then it's time for dinner and an evening stroll around the city.

Looking forward to more. Is there a particular reason you decided on Somalia, or just the desire to travel somewhere not trodden upon by tourists in general?

fourfortravel,

Visiting Hargesia was a relatively safe way to see Somailia and having been to Qobustan in Azerbaijan I wanted to see Laas Geel. In general as a path of my traveling style I do like going off the beaten path

Lamb Biryani

The streets are hectic as I take a short walk back to the Oriental Hotel for dinner. A lamb biryani dish with freshly squeezed orange juice, a salad and soup is a tasty delight for about $5.

After dinner I arrange my day tour (which includes an armed guard) with the Oriental Hotel to Laas Geel for $135. Aware that Somalians like their privacy when it comes to picture taking, I record the evening's sights and the excitement of being here on my internal memory card.




Oriental Hotel Tours

Another short walkabout and with a planned early get up and go I retire back at Birikoo Hotel for a restful night's sleep.

More, please!!

Streets Of Hargeisa

The streets are empty as I make an early morning walk back the Oriental Hotel where I will begin my tour to Laas Geel. The plan from last night was to be there around 7:30am for breakfast before starting out. Unfortunately, my day is off to a slower start than I would have liked it to be.




Oriental Hotel Breakfast

I arrive at the Oriental around 8am and although I am rushed I have a tasty breakfast which includes a minced meat dish and fresh bread along with a delicious pot of Somalian hot tea.

Just past eight in the morning I am on the road with a driver and an armed escort headed to Laas Geel. From the shadow of the car I am not only able to see everyday life around Hargeisa but I am able to capture a few shots of it.

The streets of the city are alive with traffic and locals even as a mosque sits quietly in the background. The activity here is practically the same as any other city in the world. Only it's location and culture makes Hargeisa different.



Somaliland Baboons

Beyond the city we soon encounter was local wildlife as a large group of baboons cross the street in front of us.



Next its camels with one of them looking for a roadside meal. Unlike the baboons he is in no hurry to get out of our way. Soon it's open country with a beautiful desert scenery on both sides of the road. We make a pit stop at a gas station before passing through small towns with street side vendors. In one town bags of coal are stacked near the road waiting to be sold or picked up passing trucks.



Bags Of Coal For Sale




Local Car Dealership

An hour or so after leaving Hargeisa we leave the main road for the entrance of Laas Geel. A quick stop at a security post and we still have some serious off roading to do before we reach our final destination.



Entrance To Laas Geel

Sharing Terrain WIth Four-Footed Locals

Once pass the entrance guard post there is still some all terrain driving to do before reaching the ultimate things I have come to see. Along the way to the cave painting we pass small communities were locals waves to us from a distance. Occassionally the driver slows down at some points to hand out gifts and treats he has bought for the kids.



Welcomed Gifts And Treats

After what seems like an hour or so of constant rocking and tossing we arrive at Laas Geel where at a small building displays tell the story of the discovery and ongoing project here.




A short hike and I discovery with delight what makes this special so special and my trip to Somaliland so worthwhile.


Well Preserved Human History



Cave View



Mating Animals