Serengeti - Dec 23 update
Dec 25th, 2006 | 09:59 PM
#1
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Joined: Oct 2004
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Serengeti - Dec 23 update
Jambo to all
Somehow several of my posts did not appear here. So I am trying to post again. These are my notes from a few days ago.
1. We are sitting outside the tent at Olakira Camp in their temporary camp site n the shores of Lake Ndutu. They are moving camp later today to Ndutu 6. Zebras, wldebeests and Giraffes are looking at us from about 100yards away! Last night a huge mal lion kept us entertained with loud roars on the shore.
2. Ndutu is green and lush and there are large herds of migrating wildebeests and zebras in the woods everywhere. Th cats are very active. Folks saw 2 cheetahs bring down a large wildebeest and the Millenium pride of 8 lions are also very active every day.
3. I visited the many seasonal camps in the area and some have really good locations with great vistas.
4. The migration is awesome this year. I have not seen so many animals spread out over such a large area. The herds of zebras and wildebeests are stretching from Naabi gte to Nudutu and all the way to oldupai Museum and the slopes of Mt Lemagrut. It appears the whole migration is here now - the whole green landscape is dotted with animals.
5. Fodorites on their way to Ndutu over the next few months are in for a spectacle that must be seen to describe. I filmed a lot but our cameras can hardly capture the scope of the migration.
6. The roads at Ndutu are slippery but doable. It rains almost daily.
7. Seronera was a near disaster. We did not see many animals and the main roads were blocked by flooding rivers. It was impossible to reach Mbuze Mawe and long lines of people were trying to spend their nights at Wildlife Lodge instead. Lobo and Migration Camp were also unreachable from Seronera.
8. Sayari South camp was closed after several cars got stuck near the kopjes. Wehad to stay at the Serena instead.
9. Thanks to my GPS and knowledge of local roads near Seronera we were able to drive around the obstacles but several cars were caught in the wrong places with nowhere to go and the clients had to be rescued by others.
10. Seronera airstrip is closed due to failing a safety inspection early in December. The plan is to open it soon but time will tell. We flew to Ikoma and the grass airstrip is waterlogged but works ok. The immediate roads are rather slippery but gets better once inside the Serengeti.
11. Please don't use minivans in the forseeable future. These things cannot go on the wet roads and they cause a lot of damage to the roads as the spin their wheels to get going. I hated them in the Masai Mara. These things are taxis - not safari vehicles. We wasted many hours trying to pull them out of harms way so the roads can get clear for the 4wd landcruisers. When dry, they are OK for some people I guess but not at this time. The conditions are too tough.
12. Who knows when the rains will stop! I imagine the migration will hang around in the south for at least 2 more months while the grasses regenerate. But there are so many animals. Should the rains stop soon, I wonder how long the grass will last. We have decided to return in February as I don't want to miss this incredible spectacle especially after the young are born.
Eben+Carol
Somehow several of my posts did not appear here. So I am trying to post again. These are my notes from a few days ago.
1. We are sitting outside the tent at Olakira Camp in their temporary camp site n the shores of Lake Ndutu. They are moving camp later today to Ndutu 6. Zebras, wldebeests and Giraffes are looking at us from about 100yards away! Last night a huge mal lion kept us entertained with loud roars on the shore.
2. Ndutu is green and lush and there are large herds of migrating wildebeests and zebras in the woods everywhere. Th cats are very active. Folks saw 2 cheetahs bring down a large wildebeest and the Millenium pride of 8 lions are also very active every day.
3. I visited the many seasonal camps in the area and some have really good locations with great vistas.
4. The migration is awesome this year. I have not seen so many animals spread out over such a large area. The herds of zebras and wildebeests are stretching from Naabi gte to Nudutu and all the way to oldupai Museum and the slopes of Mt Lemagrut. It appears the whole migration is here now - the whole green landscape is dotted with animals.
5. Fodorites on their way to Ndutu over the next few months are in for a spectacle that must be seen to describe. I filmed a lot but our cameras can hardly capture the scope of the migration.
6. The roads at Ndutu are slippery but doable. It rains almost daily.
7. Seronera was a near disaster. We did not see many animals and the main roads were blocked by flooding rivers. It was impossible to reach Mbuze Mawe and long lines of people were trying to spend their nights at Wildlife Lodge instead. Lobo and Migration Camp were also unreachable from Seronera.
8. Sayari South camp was closed after several cars got stuck near the kopjes. Wehad to stay at the Serena instead.
9. Thanks to my GPS and knowledge of local roads near Seronera we were able to drive around the obstacles but several cars were caught in the wrong places with nowhere to go and the clients had to be rescued by others.
10. Seronera airstrip is closed due to failing a safety inspection early in December. The plan is to open it soon but time will tell. We flew to Ikoma and the grass airstrip is waterlogged but works ok. The immediate roads are rather slippery but gets better once inside the Serengeti.
11. Please don't use minivans in the forseeable future. These things cannot go on the wet roads and they cause a lot of damage to the roads as the spin their wheels to get going. I hated them in the Masai Mara. These things are taxis - not safari vehicles. We wasted many hours trying to pull them out of harms way so the roads can get clear for the 4wd landcruisers. When dry, they are OK for some people I guess but not at this time. The conditions are too tough.
12. Who knows when the rains will stop! I imagine the migration will hang around in the south for at least 2 more months while the grasses regenerate. But there are so many animals. Should the rains stop soon, I wonder how long the grass will last. We have decided to return in February as I don't want to miss this incredible spectacle especially after the young are born.
Eben+Carol
Dec 25th, 2006 | 11:50 PM
#3
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 469
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that sounds amazing!
we will be at Ndutu (olakira) at the end of january. and to Sayari (in the gol mountains) afterwards.
Looking forward to see the migration!
last year we missed it due to the drought..
I hope it stops raining soon though....
we will be at Ndutu (olakira) at the end of january. and to Sayari (in the gol mountains) afterwards.
Looking forward to see the migration!
last year we missed it due to the drought..
I hope it stops raining soon though....
Dec 26th, 2006 | 06:55 AM
#4
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,880
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<b>5. Fodorites on their way to Ndutu over the next few months are in for a spectacle that must be seen to describe.</b>
Thanks for the report. We will be at Ndutu for seven nights starting in about 3 weeks and are very glad to read this!
Bill
Thanks for the report. We will be at Ndutu for seven nights starting in about 3 weeks and are very glad to read this!
Bill
Dec 28th, 2006 | 07:26 AM
#7
Joined: Jan 2006
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Thank you again for the reports Eben...It would have been so useful (and a bit exciting) to have one of these bulletins from Kenya before we went! You lucky people to be heading to the Ndutu area soon.
However (and please tell me if I am really off line here - I don't have that much specific experience) some observations about transportation.
If Patty made it safely to Joy's Camp in Shaba and Elsa's Kopje in Meru in a minivan in early December(and she did) they ain't all THAT bad Eben - and hers actually had to pull a Landrover Defender out of the mud! Careless and ignorant drivers and a wish to avoid saying "no" to the client is surely more of a problem with regard to getting stuck (which is when those wheels spin) - people need to know where they can and can't go on a particular day whether they are in a Landrover or a Robin Reliant - you make this point yourself. Some days in Meru recently no vehicles were going out at all. In Kenya we didn't get stuck once, despite some very treacherous and wet roads, in either a Landrover or a (4WD - obviously 2WD-only vehicles of any type are a big risk in mud) minivan... but that was because the drivers we were with knew the roads, bothered to check the current condition and took the time to be firm and explain why they didn't want to go somewhere, and we listened to them. Actually our only mishap of any note was in a Landrover, and was due to the driver using a road which he did not know the condition of in advance (but since we were only 5 minutes away from backup at the lodge we forgive him!).
Having said that it is certainly more restrictive in a minivan, but our biggest problem was clearance - we were too low to risk certain parts of roads unless we had information on how deep the water and mud below was and what else was in there (of course you need to keep moving in the mud and if our bottom had hit something we might not have been able to do that). So we'd also certainly be happier if we'd had a high-clearance Landcruiser with a comparable driver - especially if we saw a pride of lions and couldn't go any closer because of a big puddle!..... so fair advice at the moment IF people have the choice.... and if they are stuck with a minivan discourage the driver from going anywhere he's not comfortable, and expect at least part of one day "off".
I would also note to people that we were told in advance that certain parts of the journey would be dependent on the weather and alternative plans were discussed before we set out. Even then, we had one unscheduled stop (due to a river flooding a crossing - it seemed to be the most rain people could remember seeing up in Meru). Whatever vehicle you have it might be advisable to see if you can get alternative plans sorted now, so you are ahead of the crowd if the worst happens, and think about what it's going to cost you if you can't get to X or Y... the lodge might not take responsibility for your being unable to get there (of course, Eben is right that this is more likely to happen in a minivan, but ) and you may end up paying twice for the same night. If you are going very soon (to areas still wet) and your country has reasonably priced travel insurance which would cover this kind of loss it might be a good time to get some!
And if you come accross this and haven't been on holiday in the rains or monsoon or whatever, don't take this too seriously ... things were already improving most places day by day in Kenya during the secong half of December, and it was really most unusually there in Kenya .. and I think in Serengeti when Eben's notes come from.....
But I'll never think I know ANYTHING about the East African weather again!
... or transportation - but someone's got to stick up for the poor old minivan ;-)
However (and please tell me if I am really off line here - I don't have that much specific experience) some observations about transportation.
If Patty made it safely to Joy's Camp in Shaba and Elsa's Kopje in Meru in a minivan in early December(and she did) they ain't all THAT bad Eben - and hers actually had to pull a Landrover Defender out of the mud! Careless and ignorant drivers and a wish to avoid saying "no" to the client is surely more of a problem with regard to getting stuck (which is when those wheels spin) - people need to know where they can and can't go on a particular day whether they are in a Landrover or a Robin Reliant - you make this point yourself. Some days in Meru recently no vehicles were going out at all. In Kenya we didn't get stuck once, despite some very treacherous and wet roads, in either a Landrover or a (4WD - obviously 2WD-only vehicles of any type are a big risk in mud) minivan... but that was because the drivers we were with knew the roads, bothered to check the current condition and took the time to be firm and explain why they didn't want to go somewhere, and we listened to them. Actually our only mishap of any note was in a Landrover, and was due to the driver using a road which he did not know the condition of in advance (but since we were only 5 minutes away from backup at the lodge we forgive him!).
Having said that it is certainly more restrictive in a minivan, but our biggest problem was clearance - we were too low to risk certain parts of roads unless we had information on how deep the water and mud below was and what else was in there (of course you need to keep moving in the mud and if our bottom had hit something we might not have been able to do that). So we'd also certainly be happier if we'd had a high-clearance Landcruiser with a comparable driver - especially if we saw a pride of lions and couldn't go any closer because of a big puddle!..... so fair advice at the moment IF people have the choice.... and if they are stuck with a minivan discourage the driver from going anywhere he's not comfortable, and expect at least part of one day "off".
I would also note to people that we were told in advance that certain parts of the journey would be dependent on the weather and alternative plans were discussed before we set out. Even then, we had one unscheduled stop (due to a river flooding a crossing - it seemed to be the most rain people could remember seeing up in Meru). Whatever vehicle you have it might be advisable to see if you can get alternative plans sorted now, so you are ahead of the crowd if the worst happens, and think about what it's going to cost you if you can't get to X or Y... the lodge might not take responsibility for your being unable to get there (of course, Eben is right that this is more likely to happen in a minivan, but ) and you may end up paying twice for the same night. If you are going very soon (to areas still wet) and your country has reasonably priced travel insurance which would cover this kind of loss it might be a good time to get some!
And if you come accross this and haven't been on holiday in the rains or monsoon or whatever, don't take this too seriously ... things were already improving most places day by day in Kenya during the secong half of December, and it was really most unusually there in Kenya .. and I think in Serengeti when Eben's notes come from.....
But I'll never think I know ANYTHING about the East African weather again!
... or transportation - but someone's got to stick up for the poor old minivan ;-)
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Dec 28th, 2006 | 09:51 AM
#8
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,425
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Paul,
You had <i>alternative plans</i>? We didn't have <i>any</i> alternative plans!
Though when we got to Elsa's Kopje and realized our mistake of only booking two nights, Joyce and I were both hoping we'd get stranded there. Sounds like we might have been if we'd traveled just a day or two later.
I completely agree with you about the driver making a big difference and knowing where you can and can't go given the conditions. Julius had to pick his way very carefully to Joy's and even in the Joy's Land Rover there was no guarantee we'd make it to the falls the following day. We did make it that day but some days it was just physically impossible to visit a certain locations.
The one time we did get stuck on this trip was in one of the Elsa's Landies (though Mark and Rod will tell you we weren't stuck but merely temporarily mobility challenged ). We'd decided to try to make it to the rhino sanctuary where no vehicle had dared to go in the past 3 weeks. The camp even radioed to tell us not to go but by that time we were already enjoying our brekkie with the rhinos. Had it not poured on the way back, we probably would've been OK. Anyhow, it turned out to be a hilarious half hour and we weren't too far from camp if rescue ever became necessary.
You had <i>alternative plans</i>? We didn't have <i>any</i> alternative plans!
Though when we got to Elsa's Kopje and realized our mistake of only booking two nights, Joyce and I were both hoping we'd get stranded there. Sounds like we might have been if we'd traveled just a day or two later.
I completely agree with you about the driver making a big difference and knowing where you can and can't go given the conditions. Julius had to pick his way very carefully to Joy's and even in the Joy's Land Rover there was no guarantee we'd make it to the falls the following day. We did make it that day but some days it was just physically impossible to visit a certain locations.
The one time we did get stuck on this trip was in one of the Elsa's Landies (though Mark and Rod will tell you we weren't stuck but merely temporarily mobility challenged
). We'd decided to try to make it to the rhino sanctuary where no vehicle had dared to go in the past 3 weeks. The camp even radioed to tell us not to go but by that time we were already enjoying our brekkie with the rhinos. Had it not poured on the way back, we probably would've been OK. Anyhow, it turned out to be a hilarious half hour and we weren't too far from camp if rescue ever became necessary.
Dec 28th, 2006 | 11:24 AM
#9
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Posts: n/a
Latest I heard from Tanzania, this morning - hail storms in/around the Arusha area. Jokingly, my contact said "wouldn't be surprised if snow is next." To which I responded, "no, you have to be in Denver."
With weather like this in either country, you have to depend on your guide/driver, weather forecasts, road conditions... if you miss something, you miss it. Your safety is more important.
This too shall pass!
With weather like this in either country, you have to depend on your guide/driver, weather forecasts, road conditions... if you miss something, you miss it. Your safety is more important.
This too shall pass!
Dec 29th, 2006 | 07:56 PM
#12
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,252
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Patty...Elsa's changed the "don't go" warning for the rhino sanctuary to a "go if you're as mad as those Americans but it'll take us an hour or two to get the rescue truck to you" when we arrived ;-)
Well okay..... Anthony didn't actually put it that way... he seemed very pleased that you had "volunteered" to go and confirm that if the rain wasn't too heavy the rhino sanctuary could be put back on the game drive "menu"....
Better switch the rest of our comments to your trip report!
Well okay..... Anthony didn't actually put it that way... he seemed very pleased that you had "volunteered" to go and confirm that if the rain wasn't too heavy the rhino sanctuary could be put back on the game drive "menu"....
Better switch the rest of our comments to your trip report!
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