Flying Solo In Botswana and South Africa...Rocco's Trip Report
Feb 13th, 2007, 11:00 PM
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But I still can't imagine a seat row for 3 photographers. Can you imagine trying to shoot across not one but two other people? AND with everyone sitting down. Please.
regards - tom
ps - best vehicle (wide open) arrangement I've had was row of two seats AND we could stand up and use the top tube rail for support (canvas roof off). Little Governors Camp.
regards - tom
ps - best vehicle (wide open) arrangement I've had was row of two seats AND we could stand up and use the top tube rail for support (canvas roof off). Little Governors Camp.
Feb 13th, 2007, 11:26 PM
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Tom,
The chances of having more than four photographers in a single vehicle is pretty slim. Therefore, all the photographers would still have a window seat. Plus, there is the seat beside the guide that would likely be wanted by a photographer...that is my favored seat when I have anyone sharing a row with me.
All I can say is that in the full vehicle, there is some lucky guy from New Jersey who was on his first (and possibly only) safari who captured the most amazing video footage of the wild dog/hyena interaction...National Geographic quality footage.
As far as gameviewing and quality guiding goes, Kwando definitely delivers the goods.
The chances of having more than four photographers in a single vehicle is pretty slim. Therefore, all the photographers would still have a window seat. Plus, there is the seat beside the guide that would likely be wanted by a photographer...that is my favored seat when I have anyone sharing a row with me.
All I can say is that in the full vehicle, there is some lucky guy from New Jersey who was on his first (and possibly only) safari who captured the most amazing video footage of the wild dog/hyena interaction...National Geographic quality footage.
As far as gameviewing and quality guiding goes, Kwando definitely delivers the goods.
Feb 14th, 2007, 02:41 PM
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Rocco! Sorry I was MIA after the INCREDIBLE safari that you arranged for me, but I am just now reading your report of your amazing trip and loving it. Glad you enjoyed Baines and Chiefs -- I thought both were fantastic. Sorry to hear the pack of wild dogs was down to 3 at Chiefs (though maybe there were some mamas at the den with cubs?), as there were 7 when I was there in September. I actually had the luck of seeing an enormous rhino while there too -- and it was a bit too close of a call for me (our vehicle was caught between the oncoming rhino and another vehicle!). And at both Baines and Selinda I had an elephant trampling around the tent all night!
Anyway, glad to hear you had a great time, and very hopeful that your personal life is right side up from now on!
Best-
Sharina
Anyway, glad to hear you had a great time, and very hopeful that your personal life is right side up from now on!
Best-
Sharina
Feb 15th, 2007, 09:13 AM
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Hi Sharina,
Great to hear from you! Glad you had a wonderful safari...FANTASTIC that you were able to see a rhino at Chiefs Camp!
Did you absolutely love the Walk With The Elephants activity?
Chiefs Camp is next up in my photo album and will have those posted over the weekend.
Great to hear from you! Glad you had a wonderful safari...FANTASTIC that you were able to see a rhino at Chiefs Camp!
Did you absolutely love the Walk With The Elephants activity?
Chiefs Camp is next up in my photo album and will have those posted over the weekend.
Mar 6th, 2007, 01:42 AM
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KWANDO LAGOON
So after a short but amazing 2 night stay at Lebala, I was off for 2 nights at Lagoon with the promise of more wild dogs.
The transfer was quite simple and was by an oft used dirt road. Driving to the drop off/pick up point, I was amazed at just how much water was in the area...I had always thought that Kwando was a drier area, especially when looking at photos on Kwando's website so what a wonderful surprise it was to see so much water.
The drop off point was about halfway between camps and on the way what should we see in the middle of the day but a HONEY BADGER! (See my photo album for photos).
We chased the poor little guy until he finally turned and threatened the vehicle...typical...I was changing lenses at the time! So I missed the great photo but got a couple others but none like the one I missed!
I thanked Charles, my Lebala guide, for an incredible time and was met by my new Lagoon guide, Rex, a self-described Rastafarian but I guess someone stole his dreadlocks because he was pretty clean cut in appearance.
Lagoon camp was pretty nice and enjoyed a beautiful location on the water. Fishing was even possible right from camp and other guests caught numerous fish.
I preferred the tent design and layout (distance to other tents) at Lagoon compared to Lebala. Plus, I am not ashamed to say that I was very scared of the hippos at night while at Lebala as they did seem to walk around camp.
Well, to make a long story shorter, Lagoon did not disappoint and on the very first game drive, we came across the pride of six wild dogs. Although they were not on a kill, it was very exciting to see them and they were very tranquil, allowing us to approach very close...I was literally able to take hundreds of photos, so many that eventually there was no reason to take more.
Besides the wild dogs there were just huge numbers of Carmine and other bee-eaters and that was really nice.
Although I very much enjoyed Lagoon, its area, the camp managers, etc., once I heard that a group of 14 was arriving the next day, I decided to jump ship and had Lagoon radio Little Kwara, my next stop and also a Kwando camp, to see if they would accept me a day early. I mean I had already been spoiled to see the wild dogs and liked the fact that Little Kwara was a smaller camp and in the Okavango Delta, a wonderful way to finish my time in Botswana.
Fortunately, Little Kwara was, in fact, available, and now I would be there a relaxing 3 nights instead of only 2 nights so I was quite happy about that.
The next morning, as I was getting on the plane, the group of 15 were arriving...very happy to have avoidd that...they seemed fine but who wants to be the odd one out...despite my winning personality
I would have still felt a bit awkward so it was the right decision.
I was on quite the roll with wild dogs at my last three camps (Chiefs Camp, Lebala & Lagoon) and there was even the potential to see more wild dogs at my final two camps, Little Kwara and Mateya...as Borat would say...niiiice!
NEXT UP: Little Kwara
So after a short but amazing 2 night stay at Lebala, I was off for 2 nights at Lagoon with the promise of more wild dogs.
The transfer was quite simple and was by an oft used dirt road. Driving to the drop off/pick up point, I was amazed at just how much water was in the area...I had always thought that Kwando was a drier area, especially when looking at photos on Kwando's website so what a wonderful surprise it was to see so much water.
The drop off point was about halfway between camps and on the way what should we see in the middle of the day but a HONEY BADGER! (See my photo album for photos).
We chased the poor little guy until he finally turned and threatened the vehicle...typical...I was changing lenses at the time! So I missed the great photo but got a couple others but none like the one I missed!
I thanked Charles, my Lebala guide, for an incredible time and was met by my new Lagoon guide, Rex, a self-described Rastafarian but I guess someone stole his dreadlocks because he was pretty clean cut in appearance.
Lagoon camp was pretty nice and enjoyed a beautiful location on the water. Fishing was even possible right from camp and other guests caught numerous fish.
I preferred the tent design and layout (distance to other tents) at Lagoon compared to Lebala. Plus, I am not ashamed to say that I was very scared of the hippos at night while at Lebala as they did seem to walk around camp.
Well, to make a long story shorter, Lagoon did not disappoint and on the very first game drive, we came across the pride of six wild dogs. Although they were not on a kill, it was very exciting to see them and they were very tranquil, allowing us to approach very close...I was literally able to take hundreds of photos, so many that eventually there was no reason to take more.
Besides the wild dogs there were just huge numbers of Carmine and other bee-eaters and that was really nice.
Although I very much enjoyed Lagoon, its area, the camp managers, etc., once I heard that a group of 14 was arriving the next day, I decided to jump ship and had Lagoon radio Little Kwara, my next stop and also a Kwando camp, to see if they would accept me a day early. I mean I had already been spoiled to see the wild dogs and liked the fact that Little Kwara was a smaller camp and in the Okavango Delta, a wonderful way to finish my time in Botswana.
Fortunately, Little Kwara was, in fact, available, and now I would be there a relaxing 3 nights instead of only 2 nights so I was quite happy about that.
The next morning, as I was getting on the plane, the group of 15 were arriving...very happy to have avoidd that...they seemed fine but who wants to be the odd one out...despite my winning personality
I would have still felt a bit awkward so it was the right decision.I was on quite the roll with wild dogs at my last three camps (Chiefs Camp, Lebala & Lagoon) and there was even the potential to see more wild dogs at my final two camps, Little Kwara and Mateya...as Borat would say...niiiice!
NEXT UP: Little Kwara
Mar 6th, 2007, 05:26 AM
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Rocco, nice continuation. Did you see the carmine bee-eaters nesting in a riverbank? When I was in South Luangwa, we saw hundreds tunneling into the bank of the Luangwa River, and I was able to get some great photos.
Netflix is shipping me Borat as we speak (and yesterday I received back my passport with my Central Asian visas, including my Kazakhstan visa, where I will be visiting in May).
I'm off Thursday to Palenque, Mexico.
Looking forward to the rest of your report.
Michael
Netflix is shipping me Borat as we speak (and yesterday I received back my passport with my Central Asian visas, including my Kazakhstan visa, where I will be visiting in May).
I'm off Thursday to Palenque, Mexico.
Looking forward to the rest of your report.
Michael
Mar 6th, 2007, 05:51 AM
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Michael,
Just don't try to take your Borat video into his native Kazakhstan...would hate to see you spending time in a Kazakhstani re-education camp.
Have fun in Mexico...I moved up my own trip and will be in Mexico City for my birthday at this time next month.
After going back and forth with whether to return to Africa in late May or early July, after Chiawa and Old Mondoro opened up for the beginning of July, I am risking the cold weather and will, in fact go in early July. Probable itinerary:
Stanley & Livingstone, Victoria Falls (3)(seems like a long stay but I want to do a lot of activities and this will help get over jet lag)
Chiawa, Lower Zambezi (2)
Old Mondoro, Lower Zambezi (2)
The Grace or Michelangelo, Joburg (1)
5* luxury lodge TBD, Sabi Sand (3)
Mateya, Madikwe (3)(This would be the first lodge I have ever revisited unless I go to Sabi Sabi Earth Lodge prior to this which would be just as deserving)
For various reasons, most personal, this should be my best ever safari experience, so somehow Africa just continues to get better and better and better, even for this, my 8th visit!
Just don't try to take your Borat video into his native Kazakhstan...would hate to see you spending time in a Kazakhstani re-education camp.
Have fun in Mexico...I moved up my own trip and will be in Mexico City for my birthday at this time next month.
After going back and forth with whether to return to Africa in late May or early July, after Chiawa and Old Mondoro opened up for the beginning of July, I am risking the cold weather and will, in fact go in early July. Probable itinerary:
Stanley & Livingstone, Victoria Falls (3)(seems like a long stay but I want to do a lot of activities and this will help get over jet lag)
Chiawa, Lower Zambezi (2)
Old Mondoro, Lower Zambezi (2)
The Grace or Michelangelo, Joburg (1)
5* luxury lodge TBD, Sabi Sand (3)
Mateya, Madikwe (3)(This would be the first lodge I have ever revisited unless I go to Sabi Sabi Earth Lodge prior to this which would be just as deserving)
For various reasons, most personal, this should be my best ever safari experience, so somehow Africa just continues to get better and better and better, even for this, my 8th visit!
Mar 6th, 2007, 03:15 PM
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Wait a minute! Where's the censors?? Isn't there some kind of rule you cannot post your next safari itinerary in the thread of your current trip report until said trip report is complete?
I know what you mean about each trip getting better. Unless I encounter some awful glitch, or injury, or severe sickness I can't imagine any trip to Africa falling short or becoming ho hum, lackluster, run of the mill, or dull.
I know what you mean about each trip getting better. Unless I encounter some awful glitch, or injury, or severe sickness I can't imagine any trip to Africa falling short or becoming ho hum, lackluster, run of the mill, or dull.
Mar 7th, 2007, 05:25 PM
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Lynn, well then, I guess I had better continue my trip report!
LITTLE KWARA
It was a quick 45 minute flight on about a 19 seat? Air Moremi flight to get from Lagoon to Little Kwara...could not help but be a little turned on by seeing an attractive young woman piloting the plane and being in such control!
(I was to learn that many bush pilots aspire to fly for the United Nations as there is often very high hazard pay involved and that a good portion of the UN's budget goes to the pilots).
It was fabulous to be back in the Okavango Delta area and I was met at the airstrip by my guide, Thambo, who alternately described himself as Dr. T. Although he stood not more than about 5'3", his personality proved much bigger.
Little Kwara is Kwando's newest camp and proved much different from Lebala and Lagoon. Both the camp and the rooms were on the luxury side and there were only six elevated luxury chalets with two on one side of the camp and four on the other side of the camp.
The rooms were beautiful and each featured clawfoot tubs, outdoor showers (yet within the overall chalet, just an open sky), and a nice big balcony.
The camp manager, Bleu, was very nice and really went out of her way to both make sure that the guests were well attended to and to make sure that her staff was not only doing a great job but that they were also content.
Upon arrival, I was pleased to see a nice little swimming pool and given that it was very hot that day and that the camp was so intimate, I decided to go for a plunge. As would be the case on the entire safari, being solo allowed me to enjoy plenty of conversation with my fellow guests and the managers of the camp and this was really nice.
Checking in while I was in the pool was a couple just a few years older than I, he about 40 from Lichtenstein and she, also about 40, a Puerto Rican now living in Switzerland. They proved to be a really cool couple and would be my vehicle mates for the next couple days.
Immediately on the first game drive, I hit it off with this couple as she was a truly free spirit and would alternate being interested in the wildlife to singing Spanish songs to just talking about irreverent things which was fine with me. He was very down to Earth and seemed to really be enjoying his time with his partner on this, their final stop of a 3 week safari experience. Actually, he is a partner in a new 6* style luxury lodge in South Africa (located in Limpopo, I believe?) and he took pride in showing me the photos of his lodge.
Gameviewing highlights of the first game drive included watching zebras chase one of the males out of the group, biting him in the ass and running him away from the group until he finally got the hint. Same drive we also came across wildebeests, a couple leopard tortoises, kudu and birds of many varieties.
One very interesting sighting occurred when we went to site where many birds from eagles, to kites to smaller birds were flying around and around in the same tightly contained area. Until we arrived, we had no idea what they were doing. Once there, however, we saw that they were all enjoying a flying insect smorgasbord and we could literally focus in on a flying insect and know that within a few seconds a flying bird would pluck it out of the air. We watched this for a good 15 - 20 minutes while enjoying a pre-sundowner, you could call it.
I don't think I have had more fun with sundowners as I did with this couple...often I pass on the drinks but not with this couple...just so full of life and exuding positive energy.
A relative quiet first gamedrive (no predators) but still a lot of fun. Although I enjoyed dinner, I was a bit disappointed when my friends disappeared into their room without partying a bit more, but I totally understand why and was glad they were having so much fun.
The following morning, nearly right after leaving the lodge, we came across a nice big healthy female leopard who was calling for her cub. Our guide, Thabo, said that the previous day they were tracking the same leopard as it searched for its cub but with no success.
This time, however, about half an hour worth of following her, she finally found her cub! Her cub was a beautiful youngster of about six months old...old enough to not be scared of the vehicle but young enough to still have a natural curiosity towards the vehicles and a very playful nature with its mother.
However, mothers will be mothers and after a couple minutes, we were shown that we were not welcome guests as the adult leopard turned and walked towards the vehicle, snarled and let go a scary growl. Although I did not feel threatened, my fellow guests and Thabo and the tracker definitely felt threatened and after the mother repeated this action a couple more times, Thabo could not get out of their quick enough, throwing the vehicle in reverse and getting out of there in a hurry.
Somehow, I was blamed for the mother's aggressive actions, as I was lightly scolded that I am not allowed to stand up while taking photos. In actuality, I was not even standing but rather just sitting tall and leaning a bit!
Fine...I didn't mind taking one for the team and did not argue or have any bad feelings about the incident.
So off we went to see what else the morning would bring. About 10 minutes later, however, we clearly heard coming over the two way radio from another guide who had taken over at the leopard sighting, "She's biting! She's biting!", and with that Thabo ominously switched the radio off and rushed back to the scene.
Upon returning to the scene, everything appeared normal and Thabo came across the other guide and asked him why he had said the leopard was biting. The other guide explained in his native Setswana that the leopard had hissed & growled at them, causing them to back off.
Thabo first scolded the guide a bit before laughing at him and explaining the difference between BITING and hissing/growling. For the remainder of the stay, Thabo and the other guides would tease this guide with "She's biting, she's biting!"
Later in the drive, we came across a couple prides of lions and plenty of plains game.
The area around Little Kwara is really beautiful...really not far below Baines Camp which was my favorite area.
Unfortunately, my friends from Lichtenstein and Switzerland had a short two night stay so this night would be my last enjoying their company but we did make the most of it.
It was truly an amazing sunset due to the approaching rain clouds and we all really enjoyed it. The Puerto Rican woman, an atrist, pulled up a photo on her digital camera of one of her paintings and it looked uncannily like the sunset and she said that she was renaming the painting "Sundowner" in honor of this occasion.
On the night drive, just after dark, we suffered a flat tire and the slightly tipsy Puerto Rican Swiss Miss was in control of the machete to protect her boyfriend and I while the guide & tracker changed the tire...one of the benefits I suppose of having both a guide and tracker, allowing the guests to remain guests!
So there we were with glasses of wine in hand, watching a Puerto Rican dancing around and singing with machete slightly swinging! The most fun one can have on a flat tire in the bush, I suppose.
It wa a fun night and a fun dinner as the three of us really got along well with the manager and the guides. The other guests were okay but were of a different generation in both mind and body and did not add to the atmosphere but at least did not take away from it.
However, a new couple had just checked in and joined us for dinner, an American couple in the same general age range but I guess you could say they were the Ugly Americans, especially the wife. Both were college professors in Ohio (unfortunately moving from New Orleans just before Katrina) and the wife was seemingly apologetic that her husband was merely a professor (or at least she found it necessary to point out that he was FORMERLY an attorney).
The woman then proceeded to tell of their time spent with very wealthy Botswana friends over the previous days, pointing out how wealthy their (black) Botswanan friends were with their Mercedes, big house and personal friendship with the President of Botswana, blah, blah, blah, blah, blah...OBNOXIOUS!
The husband was not bad...just an utter airhead and neither he nor his wife had the good sense to remove his baseball cap from his hollow head before sitting down for dinner.
In protest, I did not even acknowledge the American woman and made sure that she only controlled her side of the table while I spoke to my friends and the manager.
(Also, let me point out that the woman had a Prada purse, was wearing designer sunglasses, designer jeans and low heels while her husband was wearing jeans, tennis shoes and a Hawaiian shirt...they were scheduled for an entire 2 night safari, taking in three entire drives...when I did tell the husband that for all that he listed he wanted to see that he really should have booked a longer stay, he turned to his wife and said "Babe, next time we need to double up on the safari time." Yes, that's it, a 4 night safari with SIX drives was obviously the solution!
Okay...sorry for being cynical but these were the only guests on the entire 3 week safari that I did not like and that upset my aura.
Fortunately, I did have one day of a private vehicle and guide at Little Kwara and given that I got on so well with my friends, I did save it for my last day so I never had to do a game drive with the other guests. Better yet, my suggestion that these guests be treated to a "romantic" private dinner on their verandah was followed so I missed their pleasant company on my final night!
There were some complaints at breakfast, however, by the American woman as she was kept up all night when two hippos were seemingly fighting to the death...not even her earplugs could block out the noise! Amazing.
It was a brutal and violent sound to hear these hippos go at it but at the same time it was beautiful and I felt lucky to hear it and only wished that I had been able to stay awake longer rather than dozing off in the middle of it all. I believe one hippo was dead or near dead by the time one of the guides came across it in the morning but such is the way of the bush.
Little Kwara, overall, was brilliant and I really enjoyed it there and would return in an instant. The management, guiding, food, and accomodations were all top notch 5* luxury. With my time up at Little Kwara, my time in Botswana was now finished and I enjoyed just about every second of it except for my fellow Americans at Little Kwara. On the more positive side, however, I had so many pleasant nights with my fellow guests at all of the other camps and even when I was the only one in camp at Linyanti Bushcamp I really enjoyed the company of the owners, Beks and Sophia, as well as the visiting managing couple from Somalisa in Hwange, Bobby and Milena.
Really a brilliant introductory visit to Botswana and I hold each African Bushcamps, Sanctuary Lodges and Kwando in the highest esteem and will return to each and every one of these operators camps.
NEXT UP - SABI SABI LITTLE BUSHCAMP, SABI SABI SELATI and SABI SABI EARTH LODGE
LITTLE KWARA
It was a quick 45 minute flight on about a 19 seat? Air Moremi flight to get from Lagoon to Little Kwara...could not help but be a little turned on by seeing an attractive young woman piloting the plane and being in such control!
(I was to learn that many bush pilots aspire to fly for the United Nations as there is often very high hazard pay involved and that a good portion of the UN's budget goes to the pilots).
It was fabulous to be back in the Okavango Delta area and I was met at the airstrip by my guide, Thambo, who alternately described himself as Dr. T. Although he stood not more than about 5'3", his personality proved much bigger.
Little Kwara is Kwando's newest camp and proved much different from Lebala and Lagoon. Both the camp and the rooms were on the luxury side and there were only six elevated luxury chalets with two on one side of the camp and four on the other side of the camp.
The rooms were beautiful and each featured clawfoot tubs, outdoor showers (yet within the overall chalet, just an open sky), and a nice big balcony.
The camp manager, Bleu, was very nice and really went out of her way to both make sure that the guests were well attended to and to make sure that her staff was not only doing a great job but that they were also content.
Upon arrival, I was pleased to see a nice little swimming pool and given that it was very hot that day and that the camp was so intimate, I decided to go for a plunge. As would be the case on the entire safari, being solo allowed me to enjoy plenty of conversation with my fellow guests and the managers of the camp and this was really nice.
Checking in while I was in the pool was a couple just a few years older than I, he about 40 from Lichtenstein and she, also about 40, a Puerto Rican now living in Switzerland. They proved to be a really cool couple and would be my vehicle mates for the next couple days.
Immediately on the first game drive, I hit it off with this couple as she was a truly free spirit and would alternate being interested in the wildlife to singing Spanish songs to just talking about irreverent things which was fine with me. He was very down to Earth and seemed to really be enjoying his time with his partner on this, their final stop of a 3 week safari experience. Actually, he is a partner in a new 6* style luxury lodge in South Africa (located in Limpopo, I believe?) and he took pride in showing me the photos of his lodge.
Gameviewing highlights of the first game drive included watching zebras chase one of the males out of the group, biting him in the ass and running him away from the group until he finally got the hint. Same drive we also came across wildebeests, a couple leopard tortoises, kudu and birds of many varieties.
One very interesting sighting occurred when we went to site where many birds from eagles, to kites to smaller birds were flying around and around in the same tightly contained area. Until we arrived, we had no idea what they were doing. Once there, however, we saw that they were all enjoying a flying insect smorgasbord and we could literally focus in on a flying insect and know that within a few seconds a flying bird would pluck it out of the air. We watched this for a good 15 - 20 minutes while enjoying a pre-sundowner, you could call it.
I don't think I have had more fun with sundowners as I did with this couple...often I pass on the drinks but not with this couple...just so full of life and exuding positive energy.
A relative quiet first gamedrive (no predators) but still a lot of fun. Although I enjoyed dinner, I was a bit disappointed when my friends disappeared into their room without partying a bit more, but I totally understand why and was glad they were having so much fun.
The following morning, nearly right after leaving the lodge, we came across a nice big healthy female leopard who was calling for her cub. Our guide, Thabo, said that the previous day they were tracking the same leopard as it searched for its cub but with no success.
This time, however, about half an hour worth of following her, she finally found her cub! Her cub was a beautiful youngster of about six months old...old enough to not be scared of the vehicle but young enough to still have a natural curiosity towards the vehicles and a very playful nature with its mother.
However, mothers will be mothers and after a couple minutes, we were shown that we were not welcome guests as the adult leopard turned and walked towards the vehicle, snarled and let go a scary growl. Although I did not feel threatened, my fellow guests and Thabo and the tracker definitely felt threatened and after the mother repeated this action a couple more times, Thabo could not get out of their quick enough, throwing the vehicle in reverse and getting out of there in a hurry.
Somehow, I was blamed for the mother's aggressive actions, as I was lightly scolded that I am not allowed to stand up while taking photos. In actuality, I was not even standing but rather just sitting tall and leaning a bit!
Fine...I didn't mind taking one for the team and did not argue or have any bad feelings about the incident.
So off we went to see what else the morning would bring. About 10 minutes later, however, we clearly heard coming over the two way radio from another guide who had taken over at the leopard sighting, "She's biting! She's biting!", and with that Thabo ominously switched the radio off and rushed back to the scene.
Upon returning to the scene, everything appeared normal and Thabo came across the other guide and asked him why he had said the leopard was biting. The other guide explained in his native Setswana that the leopard had hissed & growled at them, causing them to back off.
Thabo first scolded the guide a bit before laughing at him and explaining the difference between BITING and hissing/growling. For the remainder of the stay, Thabo and the other guides would tease this guide with "She's biting, she's biting!"
Later in the drive, we came across a couple prides of lions and plenty of plains game.
The area around Little Kwara is really beautiful...really not far below Baines Camp which was my favorite area.
Unfortunately, my friends from Lichtenstein and Switzerland had a short two night stay so this night would be my last enjoying their company but we did make the most of it.
It was truly an amazing sunset due to the approaching rain clouds and we all really enjoyed it. The Puerto Rican woman, an atrist, pulled up a photo on her digital camera of one of her paintings and it looked uncannily like the sunset and she said that she was renaming the painting "Sundowner" in honor of this occasion.
On the night drive, just after dark, we suffered a flat tire and the slightly tipsy Puerto Rican Swiss Miss was in control of the machete to protect her boyfriend and I while the guide & tracker changed the tire...one of the benefits I suppose of having both a guide and tracker, allowing the guests to remain guests!
So there we were with glasses of wine in hand, watching a Puerto Rican dancing around and singing with machete slightly swinging! The most fun one can have on a flat tire in the bush, I suppose.
It wa a fun night and a fun dinner as the three of us really got along well with the manager and the guides. The other guests were okay but were of a different generation in both mind and body and did not add to the atmosphere but at least did not take away from it.
However, a new couple had just checked in and joined us for dinner, an American couple in the same general age range but I guess you could say they were the Ugly Americans, especially the wife. Both were college professors in Ohio (unfortunately moving from New Orleans just before Katrina) and the wife was seemingly apologetic that her husband was merely a professor (or at least she found it necessary to point out that he was FORMERLY an attorney).
The woman then proceeded to tell of their time spent with very wealthy Botswana friends over the previous days, pointing out how wealthy their (black) Botswanan friends were with their Mercedes, big house and personal friendship with the President of Botswana, blah, blah, blah, blah, blah...OBNOXIOUS!
The husband was not bad...just an utter airhead and neither he nor his wife had the good sense to remove his baseball cap from his hollow head before sitting down for dinner.
In protest, I did not even acknowledge the American woman and made sure that she only controlled her side of the table while I spoke to my friends and the manager.
(Also, let me point out that the woman had a Prada purse, was wearing designer sunglasses, designer jeans and low heels while her husband was wearing jeans, tennis shoes and a Hawaiian shirt...they were scheduled for an entire 2 night safari, taking in three entire drives...when I did tell the husband that for all that he listed he wanted to see that he really should have booked a longer stay, he turned to his wife and said "Babe, next time we need to double up on the safari time." Yes, that's it, a 4 night safari with SIX drives was obviously the solution!
Okay...sorry for being cynical but these were the only guests on the entire 3 week safari that I did not like and that upset my aura.
Fortunately, I did have one day of a private vehicle and guide at Little Kwara and given that I got on so well with my friends, I did save it for my last day so I never had to do a game drive with the other guests. Better yet, my suggestion that these guests be treated to a "romantic" private dinner on their verandah was followed so I missed their pleasant company on my final night!
There were some complaints at breakfast, however, by the American woman as she was kept up all night when two hippos were seemingly fighting to the death...not even her earplugs could block out the noise! Amazing.
It was a brutal and violent sound to hear these hippos go at it but at the same time it was beautiful and I felt lucky to hear it and only wished that I had been able to stay awake longer rather than dozing off in the middle of it all. I believe one hippo was dead or near dead by the time one of the guides came across it in the morning but such is the way of the bush.
Little Kwara, overall, was brilliant and I really enjoyed it there and would return in an instant. The management, guiding, food, and accomodations were all top notch 5* luxury. With my time up at Little Kwara, my time in Botswana was now finished and I enjoyed just about every second of it except for my fellow Americans at Little Kwara. On the more positive side, however, I had so many pleasant nights with my fellow guests at all of the other camps and even when I was the only one in camp at Linyanti Bushcamp I really enjoyed the company of the owners, Beks and Sophia, as well as the visiting managing couple from Somalisa in Hwange, Bobby and Milena.
Really a brilliant introductory visit to Botswana and I hold each African Bushcamps, Sanctuary Lodges and Kwando in the highest esteem and will return to each and every one of these operators camps.
NEXT UP - SABI SABI LITTLE BUSHCAMP, SABI SABI SELATI and SABI SABI EARTH LODGE
Mar 8th, 2007, 05:28 AM
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bat,
Plenty of healthy flirtations but no romance on this safari for me.
Will make up for the lack of romance soon, however, as I will return to Africa in late June, hopefully, now, with this wonderful itinerary...a bit of hopping around, but for the properties visited, well well well worth it:
Somalisa Camp, Hwange, Zimbabwe (3)
Victoria Falls Hotel, Zimbabwe (1)
Kaingo, South Luangwa, Zambia (3)
Chiawa, Lower Zambezi, Zambia (2)
Old Mondoro, Lower Zambezi, Zambia (2)
The Grace, Johannesburg (1)
Mateya Safari Lodge, Madikwe, SA (3)
Highlights will include:
Dining near the swimming pool at Somalisa with a hopeful visit by thirsty elephants drinking out of the pool.
Seeing Victoria Falls in June (although I have seen it in March when it is even more pronounced)
Doing a sleepout at Kaingo up a tree in the elephant hide for the full moon of June 30th! Bet I see some elephants crossing the Luangwa during the night and who knows what else I will hear & see.
Seeing the Lower Zambezi in early July and splitting time between two amazing properties in Chiawa and Old Mondoro.
Finishing up with what I believe to possibly be the nicest lodge in all of Africa, Mateya Safari Lodge.
Honestly, every one of these properties ranks so high with me and looking forward to visiting Hwange, and revisiting everywhere else...I know what I like and those are the places I am visiting on this upcoming safari.
SteelieJim,
In all honesty, I am not so sure either of them are literate despite their profession!
Plenty of healthy flirtations but no romance on this safari for me.
Will make up for the lack of romance soon, however, as I will return to Africa in late June, hopefully, now, with this wonderful itinerary...a bit of hopping around, but for the properties visited, well well well worth it:
Somalisa Camp, Hwange, Zimbabwe (3)
Victoria Falls Hotel, Zimbabwe (1)
Kaingo, South Luangwa, Zambia (3)
Chiawa, Lower Zambezi, Zambia (2)
Old Mondoro, Lower Zambezi, Zambia (2)
The Grace, Johannesburg (1)
Mateya Safari Lodge, Madikwe, SA (3)
Highlights will include:
Dining near the swimming pool at Somalisa with a hopeful visit by thirsty elephants drinking out of the pool.
Seeing Victoria Falls in June (although I have seen it in March when it is even more pronounced)
Doing a sleepout at Kaingo up a tree in the elephant hide for the full moon of June 30th! Bet I see some elephants crossing the Luangwa during the night and who knows what else I will hear & see.
Seeing the Lower Zambezi in early July and splitting time between two amazing properties in Chiawa and Old Mondoro.
Finishing up with what I believe to possibly be the nicest lodge in all of Africa, Mateya Safari Lodge.
Honestly, every one of these properties ranks so high with me and looking forward to visiting Hwange, and revisiting everywhere else...I know what I like and those are the places I am visiting on this upcoming safari.
SteelieJim,
In all honesty, I am not so sure either of them are literate despite their profession!
