Flying Solo In Botswana and South Africa...Rocco's Trip Report
Feb 10th, 2007, 11:12 AM
#42
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Dennis,
Now that I am a free soul, my soul really wants to return to ZAMBIA. I really want to do a circuit with Bushcamp Company and Remote Africa (Tafika in South Luangwa, Mwaleshi in North Luangwa and their bushcamps in South Luangwa). Also, I would love to see Shiwa N'Gandu (The Africa House, which is also a book of the same title I would HIGHLY recommend to all, authored by Christina Lamb).
For sure I must also get to Chiawa and Old Mondoro.
I have a standing reservation at Chiawa and Old Mondoro for September or October, I believe, and may just build around it.
Also, Botswana or Tanzania definitely deserve another visit soon and always there are great new places opening up in South Africa.
Finally, depends if I go with someone special or by myself...if I go with someone special, I may just spend a couple days on Rovos Rail, a few days in Cape Town and visit someplace really beautiful like Pezula in Knysna and Grootbos in the Western Cape:
www.pezula.com
http://www.grootbos.com/
Africa remains the #1 love in my life and I cannot wait to return.
Now that I am a free soul, my soul really wants to return to ZAMBIA. I really want to do a circuit with Bushcamp Company and Remote Africa (Tafika in South Luangwa, Mwaleshi in North Luangwa and their bushcamps in South Luangwa). Also, I would love to see Shiwa N'Gandu (The Africa House, which is also a book of the same title I would HIGHLY recommend to all, authored by Christina Lamb).
For sure I must also get to Chiawa and Old Mondoro.
I have a standing reservation at Chiawa and Old Mondoro for September or October, I believe, and may just build around it.
Also, Botswana or Tanzania definitely deserve another visit soon and always there are great new places opening up in South Africa.
Finally, depends if I go with someone special or by myself...if I go with someone special, I may just spend a couple days on Rovos Rail, a few days in Cape Town and visit someplace really beautiful like Pezula in Knysna and Grootbos in the Western Cape:
www.pezula.com
http://www.grootbos.com/
Africa remains the #1 love in my life and I cannot wait to return.
Feb 10th, 2007, 11:47 AM
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Of course the best thing about my new life is that I have a 42" plasma television that is ONLY tuned to Sirius Radio, usually New Wave Classics! Makes for an expensive radio, I suppose, but it is great for my soul.
Now that I actually have internet (and FODORS) for the first time here, and I have rekindled relationships with family and friends, as well as making a new friend, I could really not be happier.
Now that I actually have internet (and FODORS) for the first time here, and I have rekindled relationships with family and friends, as well as making a new friend, I could really not be happier.
Feb 10th, 2007, 11:54 AM
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I could really not be happier...
Unless supping a sundowner on the patio of a wonderful lodge overlooking the dream vista and reminiscing about the day's activities.
Glad to see you are back on track old chap and that things have not dulled your enthusiasm.
Matt
Unless supping a sundowner on the patio of a wonderful lodge overlooking the dream vista and reminiscing about the day's activities.
Glad to see you are back on track old chap and that things have not dulled your enthusiasm.
Matt
Feb 10th, 2007, 02:05 PM
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Rocco, Sirius 22 is one of my pre-sets (I wasn't sure Sirius would deliver, but like Netflix, Sirius too has far exceeded my expectations). Not that they have MLB so I can listen to the Mets, I may never listen to terrestrial radio again.
I'm glad to read you are happy, and I'm sure the last few weeks have been emotionally draining, but your wit and good spirit shines through in your trip report (very impressive memory and attention to detail).
Looking forward to next installments (and eager to see your next Zambia itinerary -- someone has to make it to Kasanka for the bat migration).
Best regards, Michael
I'm glad to read you are happy, and I'm sure the last few weeks have been emotionally draining, but your wit and good spirit shines through in your trip report (very impressive memory and attention to detail).
Looking forward to next installments (and eager to see your next Zambia itinerary -- someone has to make it to Kasanka for the bat migration).
Best regards, Michael
Feb 10th, 2007, 02:37 PM
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Thanks for checking in again and updating us on your trip report and the rest. So Chiefs was good! I will admit to not knowing Geoffrey Rush. And I'll assume I fall into the category of "lovely fellow Fodorites" rather than "unlovely" unless and until I am informed otherwise.
Let the adventure continue.
Let the adventure continue.
Feb 11th, 2007, 03:31 PM
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Matt, Thit Cho, Carla and Atravelynn (all part of the "lovely Fodorite" clan as is everyone here who has so far responded),
Thanks for your responses and good wishes...it is truly appreciated.
Thit Cho...Sirius 22 is awesome...to just sit here and do work on the internet while listening to favorite song after favorite song is awesome.
Also, thanks for the reminder on Kasanka...I was given a book for Christmas..."World Press Photo '06"...taking first prize in the nature stories was a photojournalism piece on the Kasanka fruit bat migration and the photos are just beyond belief.
Kwando Lebala to follow very soon.
Thanks for your responses and good wishes...it is truly appreciated.
Thit Cho...Sirius 22 is awesome...to just sit here and do work on the internet while listening to favorite song after favorite song is awesome.
Also, thanks for the reminder on Kasanka...I was given a book for Christmas..."World Press Photo '06"...taking first prize in the nature stories was a photojournalism piece on the Kasanka fruit bat migration and the photos are just beyond belief.
Kwando Lebala to follow very soon.
Feb 12th, 2007, 01:05 AM
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KWANDO LEBALA
With my first wild dogs in the bag, I was really looking forward to Kwando Lebala where there were far more wild dogs to be found.
It was about a 50 minute air transfer from Chiefs Camp to Kwando Lebala and upon arrival at the Lebala airstrip I was met by my guide Charles, a very experienced and outgoing guide who would be my private guide for the next 2 nights.
Due to Lebala's proximity (about 18 miles away) to Kwando Lagoon, I chose to stay only 2 nights at each of the two camps.
Lebala enjoys a beautiful location nearer to water than I would have ever imagined from seeing photos on the website. Also, something else I was not previously aware of, Lebala has a really nice hide that is close to the water where guests can go hang out during the day with their binos/cameras/beer, etc.
The common area of Lebala is quite sizeable and features a really nice little gift shop...given that I arrived in a Chiefs Camp long sleeve shirt and Chiefs Camp hat, finally giving into the pressure to start dressing more safarilike, I was eager to buy some Kwando safari gear and bought a couple longsleeve shirts and a baseball cap (which has now become my favorite running cap and has helped me to some pretty good half marathon finishes recently).
Rooms at Lebala while not as fancy as Sanctuary or African Bushcamps rooms, were still nice enough and generously sized. Best of all, the rooms feature a clawfoot tub and I did put it to use enjoying a bubblebath upon arrival!
Each tent features a wooden deck patio overlooking an open plain.
The first gamedrive at Lebala was a lot of fun but I did feel bad as I had one vehicle to myself and that made for another two vehicles that were full...I probably did not win any popularity contest that day but I have since gotten over it.
So Charles and I went off in search of the Selinda pack of 16 wild dogs whose tracks had been spotted earlier. Charles believed he knew the general area that the dogs may be and once he drove there he jumped down from the vehicle and started tracking the dogs prints in hope of finding which direction they were headed.
Charles seemed to be having so much fun and would, at times, go into a slow run while following the prints, while the tracker and I followed behind in the vehicle. After awhile, however, I could not contain myself and jumped down from the vehicle and started following behind Charles on foot and this proved to be a lot more fun and would be the way it was for the duration of my stay at Lebala as we did a lot of walking, more even than driving.
Every now and then Charles would call the other Lebala vehicle to tell them where he believed the dogs may be headed. We were at this for a good 2.5 hours without much sunlight remaining when all of a sudden the other vehicle radioed back to inform us that they found most of the Selinda pack!
From there it was a mad rush to get to the site, a good distance away but Charles drove like our lives depended on it and the Uri vehicle was incredible. We were crashing through anything and everything as Charles ensured we were there at the soonest available moment with the wild dogs.
We arrived on a tranquil scene of about a dozen wild dogs sitting around a dry lake bed...perhaps about six puppies and six adults, incuding the alpha male and female.
It was a nice scene and I really was not expecting much more but about 15 minutes later, other wild dogs returned to rejoin the pack and upon doing so they were mobbed by the puppies who were begging for food to be regurgitated. Sure enough, food was regurgitated, but, even better, a couple of the returning wild dogs then led a mad rush with all of the other dogs following.
It was truly a struggle to keep pace with the wild dogs, but knowing that these dogs were returning to a kill and with a hyena also hot on their trail, Charles and the other Kwando vehicle raced behind the dogs.
Unfortunately, the sun had just set and it was now dark.
The dogs must have gone a good 2 miles before getting to their destination, a large open plain with the remains of a large impala bull. The dogs were not on the scene for more than a minute before two hyenas challenged them for the impala kill.
The two hyenas would soon regret their decision to invade as they were turned away by 16 upset wild dogs, puppies included. The sounds were just amazing as there were puppies whimpering, adult dogs barking and hyenas screaming as they were being bitten at all angles.
In what was truly a scary few seconds, the two hyenas both took refuge next to MY vehicle and I am telling the truth when I say that I had a hyena on either side of me, poking his/her head in the side of the vehicle and given that they were still being bitten by dogs, I seriously thought that I was going to have two hyenas on my lap.
Meanwhile, Charles was screaming "Take a picture, take a picture!"
Take a picture? I was more worried about having to wrestle with hyenas and could only think of all the stories I have heard of their bonecrushing jaws.
Fortunately, as this was happening, more hyenas arrived on the scene and the tide of battle started to change.
It was truly like a gang war going on with dogs vs. hyenas. I finally managed to get a couple photos but with no external flash, they were not as good quality as I would have liked.
Five hyenas were too much for only 10 adult wild dogs to fend off (although the 6 puppies were very willing combatants) and the hyenas seized control of the impala kill, only then to fight amongst themselves for the kill!
I was amazed that despite a couple of hyenas suffering from bloody rumps from puncturing dog bites, that the hyenas had no interest in revenge...there were times that dogs would walk right past them where the hyena could have surely attacked and killed the dog had it chosen to do so, but the hyenas were just not interested in fighting but instead only interested in the food.
From start (as we raced to keep pace with the wild dogs as they made their way to the kill) to finish (as the dogs dispersed after losing the kill), it was the most incredible 20 minutes of my gameviewing life in Africa with sounds I will never forget. What made it even more satisfying was that it was the tracking that Charles and I did (yes, he did 99.9% of the work) that led to this most incredible experience.
Really, there is not much to add after that...we searched for the wild dogs again the next day with no luck and then I just did walking safaris from there, with Charles and I nearly stumbling upon a breeding herd of elephants...this would NOT have been a good thing!
Food, accomodations, hosting and everything was very good at Kwando...not luxury like Sanctuary, but one does not go to Kwando for luxury but rather for great gameviewing and great guiding.
Walks back to the rooms after dinner were disconcerting for me as there are hippos walking around from the nearby water. This really freaked me out but there were no close calls and guests were always escorted back by a guide.
I thought Charles was an incredible guide...the best one I had while in Botswana and would highly endorse him to anyone visiting Lebala as a private guide. I was spoiled to have his guiding to myself for my 2 night stay and this was on his 60th and 61st consecutive days of working that he was so great (fortunately, he stuck around a day longer in order to guide me, as Kwando guides work 60 days on and then like 15 days off?).
Lebala really deserved much longer than the 2 nights I allowed but what luck to have that wild dog/hyena experience during my short stay. That, along with watching a male lion successfully hunt and kill a baby wildebeest in Ndutu (Serengeti) last March are probably my two most memorable gameviewing experiences to date.
NEXT UP: Kwando Lagoon
With my first wild dogs in the bag, I was really looking forward to Kwando Lebala where there were far more wild dogs to be found.
It was about a 50 minute air transfer from Chiefs Camp to Kwando Lebala and upon arrival at the Lebala airstrip I was met by my guide Charles, a very experienced and outgoing guide who would be my private guide for the next 2 nights.
Due to Lebala's proximity (about 18 miles away) to Kwando Lagoon, I chose to stay only 2 nights at each of the two camps.
Lebala enjoys a beautiful location nearer to water than I would have ever imagined from seeing photos on the website. Also, something else I was not previously aware of, Lebala has a really nice hide that is close to the water where guests can go hang out during the day with their binos/cameras/beer, etc.
The common area of Lebala is quite sizeable and features a really nice little gift shop...given that I arrived in a Chiefs Camp long sleeve shirt and Chiefs Camp hat, finally giving into the pressure to start dressing more safarilike, I was eager to buy some Kwando safari gear and bought a couple longsleeve shirts and a baseball cap (which has now become my favorite running cap and has helped me to some pretty good half marathon finishes recently).
Rooms at Lebala while not as fancy as Sanctuary or African Bushcamps rooms, were still nice enough and generously sized. Best of all, the rooms feature a clawfoot tub and I did put it to use enjoying a bubblebath upon arrival!
Each tent features a wooden deck patio overlooking an open plain.
The first gamedrive at Lebala was a lot of fun but I did feel bad as I had one vehicle to myself and that made for another two vehicles that were full...I probably did not win any popularity contest that day but I have since gotten over it.
So Charles and I went off in search of the Selinda pack of 16 wild dogs whose tracks had been spotted earlier. Charles believed he knew the general area that the dogs may be and once he drove there he jumped down from the vehicle and started tracking the dogs prints in hope of finding which direction they were headed.
Charles seemed to be having so much fun and would, at times, go into a slow run while following the prints, while the tracker and I followed behind in the vehicle. After awhile, however, I could not contain myself and jumped down from the vehicle and started following behind Charles on foot and this proved to be a lot more fun and would be the way it was for the duration of my stay at Lebala as we did a lot of walking, more even than driving.
Every now and then Charles would call the other Lebala vehicle to tell them where he believed the dogs may be headed. We were at this for a good 2.5 hours without much sunlight remaining when all of a sudden the other vehicle radioed back to inform us that they found most of the Selinda pack!
From there it was a mad rush to get to the site, a good distance away but Charles drove like our lives depended on it and the Uri vehicle was incredible. We were crashing through anything and everything as Charles ensured we were there at the soonest available moment with the wild dogs.
We arrived on a tranquil scene of about a dozen wild dogs sitting around a dry lake bed...perhaps about six puppies and six adults, incuding the alpha male and female.
It was a nice scene and I really was not expecting much more but about 15 minutes later, other wild dogs returned to rejoin the pack and upon doing so they were mobbed by the puppies who were begging for food to be regurgitated. Sure enough, food was regurgitated, but, even better, a couple of the returning wild dogs then led a mad rush with all of the other dogs following.
It was truly a struggle to keep pace with the wild dogs, but knowing that these dogs were returning to a kill and with a hyena also hot on their trail, Charles and the other Kwando vehicle raced behind the dogs.
Unfortunately, the sun had just set and it was now dark.
The dogs must have gone a good 2 miles before getting to their destination, a large open plain with the remains of a large impala bull. The dogs were not on the scene for more than a minute before two hyenas challenged them for the impala kill.
The two hyenas would soon regret their decision to invade as they were turned away by 16 upset wild dogs, puppies included. The sounds were just amazing as there were puppies whimpering, adult dogs barking and hyenas screaming as they were being bitten at all angles.
In what was truly a scary few seconds, the two hyenas both took refuge next to MY vehicle and I am telling the truth when I say that I had a hyena on either side of me, poking his/her head in the side of the vehicle and given that they were still being bitten by dogs, I seriously thought that I was going to have two hyenas on my lap.
Meanwhile, Charles was screaming "Take a picture, take a picture!"
Take a picture? I was more worried about having to wrestle with hyenas and could only think of all the stories I have heard of their bonecrushing jaws.
Fortunately, as this was happening, more hyenas arrived on the scene and the tide of battle started to change.
It was truly like a gang war going on with dogs vs. hyenas. I finally managed to get a couple photos but with no external flash, they were not as good quality as I would have liked.
Five hyenas were too much for only 10 adult wild dogs to fend off (although the 6 puppies were very willing combatants) and the hyenas seized control of the impala kill, only then to fight amongst themselves for the kill!
I was amazed that despite a couple of hyenas suffering from bloody rumps from puncturing dog bites, that the hyenas had no interest in revenge...there were times that dogs would walk right past them where the hyena could have surely attacked and killed the dog had it chosen to do so, but the hyenas were just not interested in fighting but instead only interested in the food.
From start (as we raced to keep pace with the wild dogs as they made their way to the kill) to finish (as the dogs dispersed after losing the kill), it was the most incredible 20 minutes of my gameviewing life in Africa with sounds I will never forget. What made it even more satisfying was that it was the tracking that Charles and I did (yes, he did 99.9% of the work) that led to this most incredible experience.
Really, there is not much to add after that...we searched for the wild dogs again the next day with no luck and then I just did walking safaris from there, with Charles and I nearly stumbling upon a breeding herd of elephants...this would NOT have been a good thing!
Food, accomodations, hosting and everything was very good at Kwando...not luxury like Sanctuary, but one does not go to Kwando for luxury but rather for great gameviewing and great guiding.
Walks back to the rooms after dinner were disconcerting for me as there are hippos walking around from the nearby water. This really freaked me out but there were no close calls and guests were always escorted back by a guide.
I thought Charles was an incredible guide...the best one I had while in Botswana and would highly endorse him to anyone visiting Lebala as a private guide. I was spoiled to have his guiding to myself for my 2 night stay and this was on his 60th and 61st consecutive days of working that he was so great (fortunately, he stuck around a day longer in order to guide me, as Kwando guides work 60 days on and then like 15 days off?).
Lebala really deserved much longer than the 2 nights I allowed but what luck to have that wild dog/hyena experience during my short stay. That, along with watching a male lion successfully hunt and kill a baby wildebeest in Ndutu (Serengeti) last March are probably my two most memorable gameviewing experiences to date.
NEXT UP: Kwando Lagoon
Feb 12th, 2007, 02:07 AM
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Rocco,
Here i am just getting ready to leave the office....and your Lebala report comes in.....nice!!!
Did you ever see that Africa Geographic issue from some time in 2006 where there was 3-4 pages of pictures of the exact sighting you had of the Selinda pack? I cant remember his name....but, it was by a French photographer.....anyways, your description brought me memories of that article in AG. I will chk the issue when i go home in the next half hour.....
Whilst i have spent time with Charles at the dinner table and the lounge, i have not had the privilege of his guiding. I stick to one of their other super-star guides
Hari
Here i am just getting ready to leave the office....and your Lebala report comes in.....nice!!!
Did you ever see that Africa Geographic issue from some time in 2006 where there was 3-4 pages of pictures of the exact sighting you had of the Selinda pack? I cant remember his name....but, it was by a French photographer.....anyways, your description brought me memories of that article in AG. I will chk the issue when i go home in the next half hour.....
Whilst i have spent time with Charles at the dinner table and the lounge, i have not had the privilege of his guiding. I stick to one of their other super-star guides
Hari
Feb 12th, 2007, 02:47 AM
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Hello Rocco,
What an amazing gameviewing experience!!!!
I look forward from your Lagoon and Kwara report,hopefully i will be visiting all this 3 camps in the first week of november.I am asking for a private vehicle and will ask about Charles as well.
That hyena close up pictures looking at you it is really scarry,i understand your concern about getting company into the vehicle!!!.
Tell me,where was the tracker sitting during the mad rush to get to the dogs?
Paco.
What an amazing gameviewing experience!!!!
I look forward from your Lagoon and Kwara report,hopefully i will be visiting all this 3 camps in the first week of november.I am asking for a private vehicle and will ask about Charles as well.
That hyena close up pictures looking at you it is really scarry,i understand your concern about getting company into the vehicle!!!.
Tell me,where was the tracker sitting during the mad rush to get to the dogs?
Paco.
Feb 12th, 2007, 05:04 AM
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Roccco - welcome back and good luck on the next phase of your life's adventure.
Incredible hyena - wild dog story at Lebala. Look forward to seeing those photos!!
I need a replacement baseball cap as I lost my favorite cap on my last trip and I may have to take advantage of the Kwando off-season rates some day and pick up one at Lebala.
Incredible hyena - wild dog story at Lebala. Look forward to seeing those photos!!
I need a replacement baseball cap as I lost my favorite cap on my last trip and I may have to take advantage of the Kwando off-season rates some day and pick up one at Lebala.
Feb 12th, 2007, 05:54 AM
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Hi Hari - just after I posted I saw the link to Roccco's Lebala photos. Those are great photos Roccco!!!
Now if only that hyena would have jumped onto your lap Roccco - we would have instantly awarded that shot the Fodor's photo of the year.
Yes the Boston Marathon has been pushed up to 10am start and the Red Sox Patriots day game also now a 11 am. start. I am an afternoon runner and that start time would be horrible.
No Boston for me. Had a meniscus surgically repaired about 4 years ago and now the same symptoms reoccurring. Have been playing ostrich and running 8-10 milers through the symptoms, but doing a Marathon would not be smart.
If you do Boston as I mentioned previously my place is open to you. I am about 2 blocks form the 22 mile spot.
Fred
Now if only that hyena would have jumped onto your lap Roccco - we would have instantly awarded that shot the Fodor's photo of the year.
Yes the Boston Marathon has been pushed up to 10am start and the Red Sox Patriots day game also now a 11 am. start. I am an afternoon runner and that start time would be horrible.
No Boston for me. Had a meniscus surgically repaired about 4 years ago and now the same symptoms reoccurring. Have been playing ostrich and running 8-10 milers through the symptoms, but doing a Marathon would not be smart.
If you do Boston as I mentioned previously my place is open to you. I am about 2 blocks form the 22 mile spot.
Fred
Feb 12th, 2007, 06:00 AM
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Rocco,
Thanks for getting back to your report, looking forward to the rest of it! It sounds like you had greats sightings at both Chiefs and Lebala.
A few questions:
Chiefs is obviously a "lux" type camp, and the seasonal pricing makes it quite attractive, and I do appreciate good food. However, the larger size - 12 tents I believe, did that make the camp seem less intimate or a little crowded? Are the tents spread far enough apart for privacy, or can you hear other guests? No night drives there, correct? What about off road driving? About how long were drives morning and afternoon? Are the vehicles the typical 3 bench seats behind the driver, so only two people per seat max? Did you feel that the drives and game viewing were still the most important aspect, or was there too much emphasis on the camp itself?
Lebala: there's been plenty of reports about the great guides and sightings! But the vehicles, when you said they were very crowded, I assume that means 3 people per row, so someone (that would be me of course) has to sit on the interior instead of outside, correct? Unfortunately, I think that I personally would feel crowded and uncomfortable, and also must be much harder for picture taking. It sounds like a private vehicle is almost a must for these camps, would you tend to agree? Do you know the approx. cost per day (and is that per vehicle?)
Oops, maybe that's too many questions, but just trying to get a few specifics.
Thanks!
Thanks for getting back to your report, looking forward to the rest of it! It sounds like you had greats sightings at both Chiefs and Lebala.
A few questions:
Chiefs is obviously a "lux" type camp, and the seasonal pricing makes it quite attractive, and I do appreciate good food. However, the larger size - 12 tents I believe, did that make the camp seem less intimate or a little crowded? Are the tents spread far enough apart for privacy, or can you hear other guests? No night drives there, correct? What about off road driving? About how long were drives morning and afternoon? Are the vehicles the typical 3 bench seats behind the driver, so only two people per seat max? Did you feel that the drives and game viewing were still the most important aspect, or was there too much emphasis on the camp itself?
Lebala: there's been plenty of reports about the great guides and sightings! But the vehicles, when you said they were very crowded, I assume that means 3 people per row, so someone (that would be me of course) has to sit on the interior instead of outside, correct? Unfortunately, I think that I personally would feel crowded and uncomfortable, and also must be much harder for picture taking. It sounds like a private vehicle is almost a must for these camps, would you tend to agree? Do you know the approx. cost per day (and is that per vehicle?)
Oops, maybe that's too many questions, but just trying to get a few specifics.
Thanks!
Feb 12th, 2007, 06:47 AM
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Rocco: incredible sighting, you really got the Kwando experience -- there is nothing like tracking the spoor and putting your feet on the ground with the results of finding your target species in action. Well done, now I have to go look at the pics.
