Advice or comments on our trip
Jul 7th, 2006 | 08:56 AM
#1
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Advice or comments on our trip
Have put together an itinerary for a trip we plan to take April 3rd thru 13th and was wondering if anyone had comments or suggestions.
April 3 Arusha Arumeru River Lodge
April 4-5 North Serengeti Migration tented lodge
April 6-7 Central/West Serengeti Mbalageti Tented Lodge
April 8-10 Gol/Barafu Kopjes Naabi Hill Campsite #1
April 11-13 South Serengeti Ndutu Lodge
April 14-15 Ngoronogoro Sopa Lodge
Just wondering if anyone thought we should make changes or have any suggestions on the overall trip.
Thanks in advance
Bill and Jill
April 3 Arusha Arumeru River Lodge
April 4-5 North Serengeti Migration tented lodge
April 6-7 Central/West Serengeti Mbalageti Tented Lodge
April 8-10 Gol/Barafu Kopjes Naabi Hill Campsite #1
April 11-13 South Serengeti Ndutu Lodge
April 14-15 Ngoronogoro Sopa Lodge
Just wondering if anyone thought we should make changes or have any suggestions on the overall trip.
Thanks in advance
Bill and Jill
Jul 7th, 2006 | 09:36 AM
#2
Joined: Jul 2006
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Hill Bill & Jill:
I just came back from TZ (5/28-6/8) and stayed at some of these lodges/camps(Arumeru, Naambi Hill and Ndutu).
We stayed at the Arumeru Lodge and it's a new and intimate lodge. It's not right in town (which is actually nice) and in sort of a suburb area.
We got in late (KLM flight from AMS) and they held the kitchen open for us so we can have dinner after we cleaned up. We had Eland for dinner, I highly recommend the Eland if they have it again. They also grow some coffee and roses on site. On a clear day, you can see Mt Meru in the distance. We were also visited by dik dik and bush babies at night. I enjoyed my stay there.
We also did mobile camping at Naambi Hill and loved the site. We were pleasantly surprised that there were no mosquitoes there. We also were visited by lions (heard them but didn't see them) and a hyena (it ate all of our butter and stole the electric cord from our dining tent, we dined by candlelight the rest of the stay there).
We also stayed at the Ndutu lodge and loved the location and intimate size, didn't like the extremely soft water (you get that soapy feel no matter how much you scrub). They've got some resident genets that visit the lodge at night and around that area, we saw a leopard and a tree lion. Also, on the turnoff to Ndutu, there's a female cheetah with 3 cubs who's a very successful hunter and we saw her take down a gazelle (another guest staying at Ndutu went out for 5 days in a row just to follow this cheetah around and told me that she made a kill each day).
The main concern I have is weather in April, it's the rainy season and could make getting to some of these locations difficult (Ndutu and campsite). We had no problems at the end of May and you may want to check carefully with your tour company on accessibility. Finally, for mobile camps, the tent is right on the ground, so if the ground is really wet or it rains a lot (like this year), it could be unpleasant. I just don't know. Hopefully, others who've been in April can provide more color.
That said, the mobile tented camp was the highlight for me and I would totally do it again.
I didn't stay at Ngorongoro Sopa but I have friends who are going to TZ in Oct and they'll be staying there. Based on my understanding, the Sopa lodges are generally larger facilities and have a less intimate feel but top notch.
Hope this helps and enjoy the planning!
I just came back from TZ (5/28-6/8) and stayed at some of these lodges/camps(Arumeru, Naambi Hill and Ndutu).
We stayed at the Arumeru Lodge and it's a new and intimate lodge. It's not right in town (which is actually nice) and in sort of a suburb area.
We got in late (KLM flight from AMS) and they held the kitchen open for us so we can have dinner after we cleaned up. We had Eland for dinner, I highly recommend the Eland if they have it again. They also grow some coffee and roses on site. On a clear day, you can see Mt Meru in the distance. We were also visited by dik dik and bush babies at night. I enjoyed my stay there.
We also did mobile camping at Naambi Hill and loved the site. We were pleasantly surprised that there were no mosquitoes there. We also were visited by lions (heard them but didn't see them) and a hyena (it ate all of our butter and stole the electric cord from our dining tent, we dined by candlelight the rest of the stay there).
We also stayed at the Ndutu lodge and loved the location and intimate size, didn't like the extremely soft water (you get that soapy feel no matter how much you scrub). They've got some resident genets that visit the lodge at night and around that area, we saw a leopard and a tree lion. Also, on the turnoff to Ndutu, there's a female cheetah with 3 cubs who's a very successful hunter and we saw her take down a gazelle (another guest staying at Ndutu went out for 5 days in a row just to follow this cheetah around and told me that she made a kill each day).
The main concern I have is weather in April, it's the rainy season and could make getting to some of these locations difficult (Ndutu and campsite). We had no problems at the end of May and you may want to check carefully with your tour company on accessibility. Finally, for mobile camps, the tent is right on the ground, so if the ground is really wet or it rains a lot (like this year), it could be unpleasant. I just don't know. Hopefully, others who've been in April can provide more color.
That said, the mobile tented camp was the highlight for me and I would totally do it again.
I didn't stay at Ngorongoro Sopa but I have friends who are going to TZ in Oct and they'll be staying there. Based on my understanding, the Sopa lodges are generally larger facilities and have a less intimate feel but top notch.
Hope this helps and enjoy the planning!
Jul 7th, 2006 | 10:08 AM
#3
Joined: Jun 2006
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"Have put together an itinerary for a trip we plan to take April 3rd thru 13th"
We were in some of these same areas April 1-11th 2006 but staying in lodges ... this is the season of "long rains" so be aware there might be limited access at Ndutu and the Crater and off the main road thru Serengeti ... we were turned back a few times but in general were OK. We've stayed at Ndutu in January and Ngorongoro Crater and liked both places, fwiw. And Gol kopjes is one of our favorite spots.
We had rains almost every day, a few times very hard rains ... there are a billion flies, millions of tsetse flies (but only in certain areas) and we had swarms of flying termites two nights during heavy rains. Maybe not the best conditions for camping
Also, with the higher grass it can be harder to see lions etc, and the game is more spread out since animals don't have to bunch up near limited water sources like in the driest seasons. That's the bad news.
On the plus side, we saw many new species of birds, prices are lower and there are fewer people. We would do another "rainy season" trip if the discounts were steep enough but our next trip is planned for drier times, Jan 2007. My advice is to hope it doesn't rain much, then you'll be OK.
Here are some pics from our April 2006 trip, go to the second page of lion shots where they are fighting and look carefully at the number of flies in a couple of those shots ... http://members.aol.com/bhilton665/ta...2006/index.htm
Bill
We were in some of these same areas April 1-11th 2006 but staying in lodges ... this is the season of "long rains" so be aware there might be limited access at Ndutu and the Crater and off the main road thru Serengeti ... we were turned back a few times but in general were OK. We've stayed at Ndutu in January and Ngorongoro Crater and liked both places, fwiw. And Gol kopjes is one of our favorite spots.
We had rains almost every day, a few times very hard rains ... there are a billion flies, millions of tsetse flies (but only in certain areas) and we had swarms of flying termites two nights during heavy rains. Maybe not the best conditions for camping
Also, with the higher grass it can be harder to see lions etc, and the game is more spread out since animals don't have to bunch up near limited water sources like in the driest seasons. That's the bad news.On the plus side, we saw many new species of birds, prices are lower and there are fewer people. We would do another "rainy season" trip if the discounts were steep enough but our next trip is planned for drier times, Jan 2007. My advice is to hope it doesn't rain much, then you'll be OK.
Here are some pics from our April 2006 trip, go to the second page of lion shots where they are fighting and look carefully at the number of flies in a couple of those shots ... http://members.aol.com/bhilton665/ta...2006/index.htm
Bill
Jul 7th, 2006 | 12:57 PM
#5
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You certainly picked good lodges, but they're way off from where you'll find lots of game. The main herds will be in the southern Serengeti, where you should spend a few days. And them spend a few days in the central Serengeti.
Migration Camp is way north and will require a flight to get there; from there to Mbalegeti (in the west and not ideal for major game in April) is quite a drive.
To save the flight out to Migration, you can drive from Arusha with a stop at Manyara, then the Crater, then the southern Serengeti and ending in the central Serengeti - flying back to Arusha from here (a much less expensive flight).
If you choose camps over lodges in this "wet" season, go with tents that are at least on raised platforms or somehow off the ground - on concrete base. Better than canvas right on the ground.
Migration Camp is way north and will require a flight to get there; from there to Mbalegeti (in the west and not ideal for major game in April) is quite a drive.
To save the flight out to Migration, you can drive from Arusha with a stop at Manyara, then the Crater, then the southern Serengeti and ending in the central Serengeti - flying back to Arusha from here (a much less expensive flight).
If you choose camps over lodges in this "wet" season, go with tents that are at least on raised platforms or somehow off the ground - on concrete base. Better than canvas right on the ground.
Jul 7th, 2006 | 01:27 PM
#6
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"Great photos! All the flies: they're not all tsetses, are they?"
The ones gnawing on the lions were not tsetses, they were mainly after the rotting buffalo and transferred to the lions ... we only got swarmed with this type of fly once, when we stopped for several minutes in the midst of probably 20,000 wildebeest, trying to get them to pack closely around the jeep so we could get a better photo ... when we drove off we were covered with flies that picked up on the motion and it took 10 minutes to get rid of all of them. Yuck.
BTW these flies can be debilitating to the lions ... back in (I think) the 1960's the heavy rains started early and kept going for months and the Crater had literally millions of these flies. Most of the lions either died or fled and I think this caused a genetic bottleneck later when the population rebounded, something like seven or eight lions were the ancestors of all the current prides. This is discussed in lion biologist Craig Packer's fine book "Into Africa".
"Do you recall which areas were tsetse heavy that time of year?"
Yes, the woodlands area on the drive between Seronera and Serena Serengeti (basically west towards Lake V from Seronera). They had several large blue and black tsetse traps out ... we hated stopping in this area to photograph but often saw beautiful birds there, like the shot of four bee-eaters lined up together, so stopped and shot quickly.
For whatever reason I only got bit once by a tsetse because we used the local repellent, which worked well. I got bit in the webbing between my thumb and first finger because I had repellent on my arms and top of my hands but couldn't put any on my palms because it eats away at the camera's finish ... so the little bugger got me right at the intersection. At times we had as many as 100 tsetses on the hood of the jeep and we didn't get bit, but the driver got bit often when we stopped to photograph because he wouldn't use insect repellent.
Bill
The ones gnawing on the lions were not tsetses, they were mainly after the rotting buffalo and transferred to the lions ... we only got swarmed with this type of fly once, when we stopped for several minutes in the midst of probably 20,000 wildebeest, trying to get them to pack closely around the jeep so we could get a better photo ... when we drove off we were covered with flies that picked up on the motion and it took 10 minutes to get rid of all of them. Yuck.
BTW these flies can be debilitating to the lions ... back in (I think) the 1960's the heavy rains started early and kept going for months and the Crater had literally millions of these flies. Most of the lions either died or fled and I think this caused a genetic bottleneck later when the population rebounded, something like seven or eight lions were the ancestors of all the current prides. This is discussed in lion biologist Craig Packer's fine book "Into Africa".
"Do you recall which areas were tsetse heavy that time of year?"
Yes, the woodlands area on the drive between Seronera and Serena Serengeti (basically west towards Lake V from Seronera). They had several large blue and black tsetse traps out ... we hated stopping in this area to photograph but often saw beautiful birds there, like the shot of four bee-eaters lined up together, so stopped and shot quickly.
For whatever reason I only got bit once by a tsetse because we used the local repellent, which worked well. I got bit in the webbing between my thumb and first finger because I had repellent on my arms and top of my hands but couldn't put any on my palms because it eats away at the camera's finish ... so the little bugger got me right at the intersection. At times we had as many as 100 tsetses on the hood of the jeep and we didn't get bit, but the driver got bit often when we stopped to photograph because he wouldn't use insect repellent.
Bill
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Jul 25th, 2006 | 06:07 AM
#8
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Hi Bill949,
The area just north and south of Naabi Hill #1 (not in the camp area) was prolific with tse's last Feb. even though traps were in place.
We did stay at the Ngo Sopa and found it to be a very good location with stunning views. The lodge itself was not our favorite however, due to it's lack of intimacy. The food, although quite edible and the somewhat sketchy service is IMHO to be expected in such a large place.
From what I gather, unless you want to pay big bucks and stay at the Crater Lodge this seems to be a standard with the rim lodges. For us it wasn't an issue b/c location and animal viewing were at the top of our list.
Good luck!
Sherry
The area just north and south of Naabi Hill #1 (not in the camp area) was prolific with tse's last Feb. even though traps were in place.
We did stay at the Ngo Sopa and found it to be a very good location with stunning views. The lodge itself was not our favorite however, due to it's lack of intimacy. The food, although quite edible and the somewhat sketchy service is IMHO to be expected in such a large place.
From what I gather, unless you want to pay big bucks and stay at the Crater Lodge this seems to be a standard with the rim lodges. For us it wasn't an issue b/c location and animal viewing were at the top of our list.
Good luck!
Sherry
Jul 25th, 2006 | 06:59 AM
#9
Joined: Jun 2006
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"I shall do a 6 days safari in Northern Tanzania in September, and I must say I quite panic about the tsetse flies and the risk of infection with trypanosomiasis. Do you remember the name of the local repellant you used?"
We used the packets the Serena lodge provided, dunno the name but they were in small green packets like ketchup at a fast food restaurant. Our room attendant gave us a dozen extra when we asked.
I seem to remember reading somewhere that these tsetses don't carry trypanosomiasis but they are vicious biters. I could be wrong about the trypanosomiasis, but it wasn't on our list of things to worry about ...
It should be dry season when you're there ... last January, when it was very dry, we saw very few tsetse flies, mainly at Lake Manyara, so you might be OK. We probably saw 10,000 tsetses in April for every one we saw in January (but it was a very dry January).
Bill
We used the packets the Serena lodge provided, dunno the name but they were in small green packets like ketchup at a fast food restaurant. Our room attendant gave us a dozen extra when we asked.
I seem to remember reading somewhere that these tsetses don't carry trypanosomiasis but they are vicious biters. I could be wrong about the trypanosomiasis, but it wasn't on our list of things to worry about ...
It should be dry season when you're there ... last January, when it was very dry, we saw very few tsetse flies, mainly at Lake Manyara, so you might be OK. We probably saw 10,000 tsetses in April for every one we saw in January (but it was a very dry January).
Bill
Jul 26th, 2006 | 08:24 AM
#11
Joined: Jul 2006
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Hi Bill,
concerning trypanosomiasis, the transmission risk through the bit of tsetse flies ist mentionned on several websites and in different guide books. However, our tour operator says there is no more risk actually. Don't know what is right. Does anyone know something more?
concerning trypanosomiasis, the transmission risk through the bit of tsetse flies ist mentionned on several websites and in different guide books. However, our tour operator says there is no more risk actually. Don't know what is right. Does anyone know something more?
Jul 26th, 2006 | 10:28 AM
#13
Joined: Jun 2006
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"concerning trypanosomiasis, the transmission risk through the bit of tsetse flies ist mentionned on several websites and in different guide books. However, our tour operator says there is no more risk actually. Don't know what is right. Does anyone know something more?"
Dan, I just did a Google search on "trypanosomiasis tanzania" and found nine cases for European tourists a few years back, it looks like Tarangire and Serengeti were the common links. So perhaps there's more risk than previously thought? Here are a couple of the links ... thanks for bringing this to everyone's attention ... one of the links does say the Tz authorities are taking steps to kill of the flies but we sure saw them by the tens of thousands during the rainy season in Serengeti ...
http://www.highbeam.com/library/docF...D=1G1:87739673
http://www.cdc.gov/ncidod/EID/vol8no6/01-0432.htm
http://www.cdc.gov/ncidod/eid/vol8no1/01-0130.htm
Bill
Dan, I just did a Google search on "trypanosomiasis tanzania" and found nine cases for European tourists a few years back, it looks like Tarangire and Serengeti were the common links. So perhaps there's more risk than previously thought? Here are a couple of the links ... thanks for bringing this to everyone's attention ... one of the links does say the Tz authorities are taking steps to kill of the flies but we sure saw them by the tens of thousands during the rainy season in Serengeti ...
http://www.highbeam.com/library/docF...D=1G1:87739673
http://www.cdc.gov/ncidod/EID/vol8no6/01-0432.htm
http://www.cdc.gov/ncidod/eid/vol8no1/01-0130.htm
Bill
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