The drive from Coyhaique to the town of Puerto Aisén and its port, Chacabuco, is beautiful. The mist hangs low over farmland, adding a dripping somnolence to the scenery. Dozens of waterfalls and rivers wend their way through mountain formations. Yellow poplars surround charming rustic lodges, and sheep and cattle graze on mossy, vibrant fields. The picture of serenity terminates at the sea, where the nondescript town of Puerto Aisén and its port Chacabuco—Coyhaique's link to the ocean—sits. This harbor ringed by snowcapped mountains is where you board the ferries that head north to Puerto Montt in the Lake District and Quellón on Chiloé, as well as boats going south to the spectacular Laguna San Rafael.
When there was every reason in the world to stay away and see the ruins, one woman traveled to Greece to get to work.More