Brandon Pettit spent years developing his thin-but-chewy pizza crust, and the final product has made him a contender for the city's best pies from the day Delancey opened. Pettit himself is usually manning the wood-fired oven at this sweetly sophisticated little spot north of downtown Ballard that he owns with wife Molly Wizenberg (author of the "Orangette" food blog). Neighborhood families and far-flung travelers alike line up before opening time for seasonal pizzas topped with anything from fresh cheeses, local clams, pork fennel sausage, blistered padron peppers, nettles, and crimini mushrooms. The small wine list is well edited and elegant; desserts are simple but inspired—the homemade chocolate chip cookie with sea salt is delish. Charming service and quirky mismatched tables and lighting make this a Ballard experience to remember.