This restaurant looks like a chichi Italian farmhouse, with dried flowers in brass urns, hand-painted porcelain, and straw baskets everywhere. The food isn't pretentious in the least, however. It's more like Santa Monica meets San Stefano—bold yet classic, healthful yet flavorful. Duckling stewed in red wine; fresh pastas, including veal-stuffed agnolotti; and risotto with mixed wild mushrooms, are all well made and fairly priced. The reasonably priced five-course tasting menu is a smart way to sample more of the kitchen's talents; adding the wine pairings ups the cost, but it improves the value.