Nobody goes hungry—and no beer drinker goes thirsty—at this lively, hip outpost of simple German cooking in the trendy Hayes Valley corridor. When the room gets crowded, which it regularly does, strangers sit together at unfinished pine tables. Servers are quick and efficient, and keep the pace moving along. The hearty food—bratwurst and red cabbage, potato pancakes with house-made applesauce, meat loaf, braised beef, pork loin, schnitzel, strudel—is tasty and kind to your pocketbook, and the imported brews are first-rate. There's also a popular Sunday brunch, with appealing fare such as gravlax with mustard-dill sauce and pancakes with brandied raisins.
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