In a city where informality reigns, this is one of L.A.'s more dressy—but not stuffy—restaurants. The dining room is contemporary yet elegant, with well-spaced tables topped with flowers and Limoges china. The garden room loosens up with a stone fountain and a retractable roof. Chef-owner Josiah Citrin enriches his modern French cooking with seasonal California produce. Consider seared sweet corn ravioli in brown butter-truffle froth, lobster Thermidor, venison with poivrade sauce, or duck in a Banyuls reduction. The cheese cart is packed with domestic and European selections.
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