In a city where informality reigns, this is one of L.A.'s more dressy, but not stuffy, establishments. The dining room is contemporary yet elegant, with well-spaced tables topped with flowers and fine china. Chef-owner Josiah Citrin enhances his modern French cooking with seasonal California produce. Consider white-corn ravioli in brown butter–truffle froth, lobster bolognese, and elegant tableside presentations of Dover sole and stuffed rotisserie chicken. The cheese
cart is packed with domestic and European selections. The tasting menus offered here including a creative vegetarian option.