Muros is a popular summer resort with lovely, arcaded streets framed by Gothic arches. The quiet back alleys of the old town reveal some well-preserved Galician granite houses, but the real action takes place when fishing boats return to dock from the mussel-breeding platforms that dot the bay. At around 6 pm, a siren signals the start of the lonja (fish auction), to which anyone is welcome, although you need a special license to buy. Trays spilling over with slimy octopi or cod line the floor, covered in a sheen of saltwater, squid ink, and fish blood; the favored footwear is knee-high rubber boots. Good beaches nearby include Praia de San Francisco and Praia de Area.
When there was every reason in the world to stay away and see the ruins, one woman traveled to Greece to get to work.More