A manairó is a mysterious Pyrenean elf who helps make things happen, and Jordi Herrera may be one. A demon for everything from blowtorch-fried eggs to meat cooked al clavo ardiente (à la burning nail—fillets warmed from within using red-hot spikes, producing meat both rare and warm and never undercooked), Jordi also cooks cod under a lightbulb at 220 degrees (bacalao iluminado—illuminated codfish) and serves a palate-cleansing gin and tonic with liquid nitrogen, gin, and lime. The intimate though postmodern-edgy design of the dining room is a perfect reflection of the cuisine.
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