Manairó

Manairó Review

A manairó is a mysterious Pyrenean elf who helps make things happen, and Jordi Herrera may be a culinary one. A demon with everything from blowtorch-fried eggs to meat cooked al clavo ardiente (à la burning nail)—fillets warmed from within by red-hot spikes producing meat both rare and warm and never undercooked—Jordi also cooks cod under a lightbulb at 220°F (bacalao iluminado, or illuminated codfish) and serves a palate-cleansing gin and tonic with liquid nitrogen, gin, and lime. The intimate though postmodern, edgy design of the dining room is a perfect reflection of the cuisine.