In a fine old house that looks out over the Baixa and the Rio Tejo (reserve a table by the window), you can have one of Lisbon's great food experiences. The dining room lined with 18th-century tiles is a charming place to sample Portuguese fare, from both tasting and seasonal à la carte menus. You might start with a platter of cured meats from the Iberian black pig. Then try a signature entrée, such as bacalhau with cured ham, spinach, and chick-pea purée, or veal medallions
with Azeitão cheese. Vegetarians are well served here with creamy risottos. Among their desserts, the tiramisu with pear cooked in port wine stands out. On arrival at the restaurant, ring the bell to get in. The downstairs wine bar has similarly panoramic views and a more informal atmosphere.