Fodor's Expert Review Santo António de Alfama

This place is the opposite of a tourist trap---"We don't have sardines or fado," it proudly advertises---and the fact that it's still crowded is a testament to the great food and atmosphere. The simple but sophisticated dining room has lovely azulejo tiles and is hung with black-and-white photos of famous artists. The kitchen turns out a varied menu that emphasizes authentic dishes such as morcela com grelos (blood sausage and turnip leaves).