Seen by many as the best restaurant in the Bairro Alto, Pap'açorda is definitely among the hippest. Art and media types scramble to reserve one of the closely packed tables in the minimalist interior. The menu lists cutting-edge versions of Portuguese classics—grilled sole or John Dory; breaded veal cutlets; and açorda itself, that bread-based stew, rich in seafood (the luxury version contains lobster) and flavored with garlic and cilantro. The fried whitebait with tomato açorda makes for a great starter. For dessert, scrumptious chocolate mousse is spooned with panache from a giant bowl. There's a good wine list (all Portuguese) and a long bar by the door where those unwise enough not to have made a reservation wait for a table.
Rua da Atalaia 57, Lisbon, 1200-037, Portugal