Fans of Sicilian sweets make a beeline for Pasticceria Grammatico. The place is run by Maria Grammatico, a former nun who gained international fame with Bitter Almonds, her life story cowritten with Mary Taylor Simeti. Her almond-paste creations are works of art, molded into striking shapes, including dolls and animals. There are a few tables and a tiny balcony with wonderful views.
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