The graceful Marchesa Ginevra Niccolini di Camugliano has taken her husband's family's palazzo (acquired by an ancestor in 1532) and turned it into a luxurious place that still manages to evoke a cozy, yet highly sophisticated, home. She refers to her lovingly restored hotel as her third child. Rooms have high ceilings, damask drapes, and spacious, marble-floored bathrooms. Some have original 18th-century frescoes, others terrific views. The well-priced Dome Suite, with its remarkable view and hot tub, is worth a splurge, as the Duomo's so close you can practically touch it. An honor bar allows you to enjoy an after-dinner drink in a swank velvet-clad sitting room.