Fodor's Expert Review FanFan

For design charm, look no farther than this café a stone's throw from the Sheraton Hotel. A cross between an eccentric grandmother's sitting room and a mixed-media artist's showroom, FanFan draws inspiration from Georgian literary legend and Soviet dissident Chabua Amirejibi, who owned the building. During the day, the brightly covered café tables host lazy conversations over tea and occassional snoozing cats, but at night, the space assumes a restaurant identity, serving regional dishes including its signature bacon rolls stuffed with walnuts and prunes. Live music, mostly jazz, is a regular feature in the evenings.