The thick crowds that flock to the Place des Vosges rarely venture to the other side of the Marais: the 3e arrondissement, which has morphed into one of the hottest neighborhoods in Paris. Good luck finding an apartment to rent here—most are small walk-ups with exposed wooden beams and lots of charm. But even if you can't move in, you can enjoy this trendy quartier like a local. First, head to the Rue de Bretagne, the main drag. Stop for lunch at one of the food stalls in the Marché des Enfants Rouges (No. 39, open Tuesday through Sunday): it's the oldest covered market in Paris. Next, explore narrow side streets, like Rues Charlot, Debelleyme, and Poitou, lined with art galleries and small boutiques. Stop for a real English scone at the Marais outpost of the popular Rose Bakery (30 rue Debelleyme); try a cup of Joe and a croissant at Poilâne (38 rue Debelleyme); or treat yourself to a gelato at Mary's (1 rue Charles-Francois Dupuis). Across the street is the 19th-century iron-and-glass
Carreau du Temple, which, after a long-overdue renovation, has reopened as a locally driven arts and sports community center. This is the site of the former Templar Tower, where Louis XIV and Marie-Antoinette were imprisoned before the king's date with the guillotine (Napoléon later razed it). For your evening aperitif, make a beeline for the buzzy Café Charlot, at 38 rue de Bretagne. If you're in the mood for couscous, try Chez Omar, a neighborhood institution at No. 47.