The thick crowds that flock to the Place des Vosges rarely venture to the other side of the Marais: the 3e arrondissement, which has morphed into one of the hottest neighborhoods in Paris. Good luck finding an apartment to rent here—most are small walk-ups with exposed wooden beams and lots of charm. But even if you can't move in, you can enjoy this trendy quartier like a local. First, head to the Rue de Bretagne, the main drag. Stop for lunch at one of the food stalls in the Marché des Enfants Rouges (No. 39, open Tuesday through Sunday): it's the oldest covered market in Paris. Next, explore narrow side streets, like Rues Charlot, Debelleyme, and Poitou, lined with art galleries and small boutiques. Stop for a real English scone at the Marais outpost of the popular Rose Bakery (30 rue Debelleyme); try a cup of Joe and a croissant at Poilâne (38 rue Debelleyme); or treat yourself to a gelato at Mary's (1 rue Charles-Francois Dupuis). Across the street is the 19th-century
iron-and-glass Carreau du Temple, which, after a long overdue renovation, will
reopen as a locally-driven arts and sports community center. This is the site of the former Templar Tower, where Louis XIV and Marie Antoinette were imprisoned before the king's date with the guillotine (Napoléon later razed it). For your evening aperitif, make a beeline for the buzzy Café Charlot, at 38 rue de Bretagne. If you're in the mood for couscous, try Chez Omar, a neighborhood institution at No. 47.