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A new wave of culinary confidence has been running through one of the world's great food cities and spilling over both banks of the Seine. Whether cooking up grand-mère's roast chicken and riz au lait or placing a whimsical hat of cotton candy atop wild-strawberry-and-rose ice cream, Paris chefs—established and up-and-coming, na
A new wave of culinary confidence has been running through one of the world's great food cities and spilling over both banks of the Seine. Whether cooking up grand-mère's roast chicken and riz au lait or placing a whimsical hat of cotton candy atop wild-strawberry-and-r
A new wave of culinary confidence has been running through one of the world's great food cities and spilling over both b
A new wave of culinary confidence has been running through one of the world's great food cities and spilling over both banks of the Seine. Whether cooking up grand-mère's roast chicken and riz au lait or placing a whimsical hat of cotton candy atop wild-strawberry-and-rose ice cream, Paris chefs—established and up-and-coming, native and foreign—have been breaking free from the tyranny of tradition and following their passion.
Emblematic of the "bistronomy" movement is the proliferation of "gastrobistros"—often in far-flung or newly chic neighborhoods—helmed by established chefs fleeing the constraints of the star system or passionate young chefs unfettered by overblown expectations. Among the seasoned stars and exciting newcomers to the scene are Yannick Alléno, who left behind two Michelin stars at Le Meurice to open his locavore bistro Terroir Parisien at the Palais Brogniart and earned three stars at the storied Pavillon Ledoyen within his first year at the helm; David Toutain at the exceptional Restaurant David Toutain; Sylvestre Wahid at Brasserie Thoumieux; and Katsuaki Okiyama's Abri.
But self-expression is not the only driving force behind the current trend. A traditional high-end restaurant can be prohibitively expensive to operate. As a result, more casual bistros and cafés, which reflect the growing allure of less formal dining and often have lower operating costs and higher profit margins, have become attractive opportunities for even top chefs.
For tourists, this development can only be good news, because it makes the cooking of geniuses such as Joël Robuchon, Guy Savoy, Eric Frechon, and Pierre Gagnaire a bit more accessible (even if these star chefs rarely cook in their lower-price restaurants) and opens up a vast range of new possibilities for exciting dining.
Like the chefs themselves, Paris diners are breaking away from tradition with renewed enthusiasm. New restaurants, wine bars, and rapidly multiplying épicieries (gourmet grocers) and sandwich shops recognize that not everyone wants a three-course blowout every time they dine out. And because Parisians are more widely traveled than in the past, many ethnic restaurants—notably the best North African, Vietnamese–Laotian, Chinese, Spanish, and Japanese spots—are making fewer concessions to French tastes, resulting in far better food.
Chef Jason Gouzy won a Michelin star less than a year after the 2020 opening of this sought-after restaurant, where each dish resembles a gemlike work of art. The sleekly romantic dining room perfectly mirrors what's on the menu: dishes of exceptional imagination and refinement with an emphasis on seasonal market-fresh vegetables, seafood, and meticulously sourced meats. Watch Gouzy perform his small miracles—imaginative smoked vegetables and exquisite, unexpected pairings—from behind the kitchen window or wait to be surprised. It's never a disappointment.
24 rue du Sentier, Paris, Île-de-France, 75002, France
Originally a cave à manger (a wine bar/bistro) serving natural wines and top-quality French fare, the foodie world rejoiced when adulated chef Simone Tondo took the helm and introduced a small but stellar menu of Italian comfort dishes mixed with French stalwarts. The old tile floors, wooden tables, and location in the atmospheric Passage des Panoramas, Paris's oldest covered arcade, only add to the ambience. Since earning a Michelin star, it's utterly packed at mealtimes (and quite noisy for those with tender eardrums), so be sure to reserve in advance.
8 Passage des Panoramas, Paris, Île-de-France, 75002, France
You could hear the buzz for miles when this beautiful dining room opened in 2019, and it's only gotten louder thanks to a shiny new Michelin star. Jerusalem-born chef Assaf Granit brings his formidable talent and imagination to Israeli and Asian-inspired dishes. Candlelit at night, the small but beautiful dining room is the perfect backdrop to an unforgettable meal.
19 rue St-Sauveur, Paris, Île-de-France, 75002, France
There's something about this sleek little wine bar that attracts top talent before they really hit the big time. Currently, it's a whole new culinary adventure under the helm of Mexican chef Robert Mendoza, whose sublime concoctions have Parisians coming back again and again. The spare decor is the perfect backdrop for the chef's deliciously colorful plates, and you can watch the cooks master the open kitchen as the enthusiastic crowd gets more lively as dishes arrive and wine is poured (there are at least 20 choices by the glass).
43 rue des Petites Écuries, Paris, Île-de-France, 75010, France
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